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Revell VII C "Wolf Pack" WIP-pics

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  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:27 AM

Update- more water effects added. Needs some more work I think, but I'm back onto the boat itself now.

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Tuesday, June 25, 2013 11:25 AM

That makes perfect sense, now that you've explained it. Thank you very much for taking the time to enlighten me, Lloyd. Can't wait to see this done. Believe it or not, I'd never seen a scale model set in a scale ocean base before! So very cool.

Has been both fun and enlightening to follow your work on the 'ocean'. It is looking incredibly convincing!

  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Tuesday, June 25, 2013 11:17 AM

Greg, I made a deep cut all around the hull along the waterline, so the tape should pull away cleanly. But that line is partly remnants of Tamiya tape and the clay, so yeah it will have to be covered with spray foam effects. I'll do that later in the week, using acrylic heavy gel and acrylic white paint. I plan to have the water and foam running over the upper hull in some areas so it should look natural enough.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Tuesday, June 25, 2013 10:04 AM

This is amazing to watch in progress.

Lloyd, I have a tendency to get hung up on the details, and just can't sort out how you will deal with the irregular line of intersection between the water and the hull, with a thin layer of masking tape in between. If you could by any chance post some detail pics and explanation of how this is cleaned up, this fan of your work would be appreciative. :)

  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Tuesday, June 25, 2013 5:59 AM

I want to leave it for a few days to fully dry out but the sub hull against the water is looking promising.

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  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Tuesday, June 25, 2013 5:54 AM

Gloss varnish is on, two layers of this stuff and it pools in the low spots, it ends up looking glassy and has a lot of depth.

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  • Member since
    March 2009
  • From: brisbane australia
Posted by surfsup on Tuesday, June 25, 2013 4:27 AM

Will be watching this one with interest. Real nice work so far.....Cheers mark

If i was your wife, i'd poison your tea! If Iwas your husband, I would drink it! WINSTON CHURCHILL

  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Monday, June 24, 2013 9:20 AM

Thanks, but I've forgotten what my sub looks like!

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Monday, June 24, 2013 8:23 AM

Well:

  Tell you what LLOYD . I wish my weathering looked that good ! I mean it . Did you see a U-BOAT in real life or what ?That looks awesome ! Now , watch out for allied planes and corvettes okay ?     Tanker-Builder .

  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Friday, June 21, 2013 9:54 AM

Next is airbrushed white for the wake. This looks overdone, but I work over this with clear blue.

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  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Friday, June 21, 2013 9:51 AM

No problems. Just an update on the ocean effects. I painted a basecoat of an ocean blue colour (not too bright for the North Atlantic) And airbrushed black-blue to add depth.

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  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Tuesday, June 4, 2013 9:14 AM

Thanks for sharing your methodology with me, Wayne**. Much appreciated.

**Edit: I meant Lloyd, Lloyd. Sorry senior moment or something.

  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Tuesday, June 4, 2013 12:09 AM

Thanks Greg, I'm using Zap CA glue. I have a toothpick with a small ball of bluetack on the end, and use that to pick up the small PE bits especially the tiny hinges which were tough to do. I'm amazed I didn't lose one piece until I sanded a few off later on. I just try to hold pressure on the piece for 20 or 30 seconds.

Future sounds interesting, but I prefer to lock everything down. I've been knocking this model around, leaning my arm on the narrow hatch PE pieces I added and they haven't budged.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, June 3, 2013 11:17 AM

Don't know if 'weathering' is the proper term to use for a sub, but holy cow are you doing a fantastic job. Very, very impressive! You could write a tutorial for sure.

To digress, curious what adhesive(s) you use to affix the flat PE parts? Looks to be very clean, and perfect positioning. I ask because I am still searching for the 'perfect' adhesive that will hold, yet allow for some positioning time. In my very limited PE experience, best I've found for positioning is Future, but it doesn't hold very well.

TIA.

  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Monday, June 3, 2013 10:28 AM

Trying a big bow wave on the port side. To this I'll add venting waterfalls and foam etc. Not sure how it will turn out, but it's fun to do.

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  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Monday, June 3, 2013 10:25 AM

Building up the water and bow wave effects with some cheapy craft store clay. The clay looks pretty similar to Das in texture, and it air-dries.  The stuff is ok to work with but it also cracks as it dries in a few spots, but that's easy to fix as I go along.

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  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Thursday, May 30, 2013 9:07 AM

I agree. Too much of a "good" thing can be bad!

  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Thursday, May 30, 2013 9:02 AM

Thanks, I made a lot of stuff ups but it looks ok in person. I think the paint chipping effect would have to be used sparingly on a 1/72  scale ship. It may not look scale in the way it does on the car models.

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Thursday, May 30, 2013 8:14 AM
Lol small world! At any rate, if I don't start building again I'lll never get to my 1/72! Yours is great!
  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Thursday, May 30, 2013 8:12 AM

That's where I read about the chipping, in Dr Cranky's book. The salting and chipping are different, with the chipping you use water to soften the top colour and scratch it away. I haven't tried that approach yet but it sounds ok.

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Thursday, May 30, 2013 6:54 AM

Here's what I've seen - no lacquer required. Doctor Cranky has 3 parts (search channel for "salting").

www.youtube.com/.../search

  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Wednesday, May 29, 2013 8:18 AM

I didn't use the chipping technique, I just painted the rust spots with a fine brush. For paint chipping you need a rust undercoat sealed with lacquer varnish before the final colour is sprayed over that. When I tried the effect I just kept hitting the white primer as I scratched the surface.

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Wednesday, May 29, 2013 6:15 AM
I notice u had painted the rust spots early on but how did u chip? Did u finish top coat over the rust and use salt or how?
  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Tuesday, May 28, 2013 10:12 PM

Leelan, the weathering stages I would use now are basically, grey wash, salt streaks, rust chipping and streaks, and dry brushing. With some post shading using smoke colour.

I found applying a coat of future between the stages really helped lock the streaking effects in place, especially the rust chipping. You can just spray those areas where the rust is applied.

You can do the stages in any order, but I found the rust started to fade too much under the salt streaks and dry brushing. I used model master rust colour, painted a small chipped area and then using a small touch of white spirit on a q-tip (or a brush worked better for the salt) and drag it down the sides of the hull.

The deck used exactly the same stages, salt streaks included.

Thats about it.

  • Member since
    September 2010
Posted by modelnut on Tuesday, May 28, 2013 5:39 PM

Lloyd,

Could you give us a blow-by-blow of your weathering techniques? I have looked online and found squat. I have a fleet of the 72 scale boats waiting. But I also have a bunch of 144's. The smaller boats will probably be built first since they will take up less room. The 72's will wait until we win the Lottery or the kid moves out of the house. Toast

- Leelan

  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Tuesday, May 28, 2013 6:22 AM

I used scraps of foam to plug the gaps around the hull. Sculpting the water is the next job.

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  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Tuesday, May 28, 2013 6:18 AM
  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Lloyd on Monday, April 29, 2013 10:15 PM

Thanks! Still needs some blending and softening back. I'm thinking of doing a layer of future between gray/grime wash, the rust streaks and the salt streaks because I tried doing them all at once and it gets very muddy, just tends to blend together. But I'm still experimenting really.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, April 29, 2013 4:03 PM

Lovely work, she is looking good.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

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