Revell 1/570 Titanic

Arnie60:

I agree with your method but he already put the decal on and I never liked removing decals.

I concur that you should put down a clear gloss first, then the decal followed by a dull coat. I use a clear gloss enamel, but I suppose future would work equally as well if not better.

A light coat of any type of overcoat like dull coat or gloss coat covers it up nice.

Hi Brian. I've read in Finescale about using Pledge Future and then spraying it with a flat clear.  Try it.

Shaun

Today was rather discouraging. I had intended to finish the model by adding the decals and the Marconi wires, but both were sort of a bust. I spent a few hours on the Marconi, but just could not get it looking right, and eventually cut it off and decided not to attempt it at this scale. Much harder than the other rigging. The decals were relatively easy, but I ended up being able to see the surrounding decal sheet, which was disappointing...

What did I do wrong here? Or is this the best I can hope for? (I used Testors decal set, but otherwise just applied them as I remembered doing 'back in the day'.)

seasick: Partially true - I was actual the aftmost funnel (#4) that was fake. Located roughly above the engines rather than the boilers, it vented only a small fireplace in one of the public rooms. It was intended to emphasize the size of the Olympic-class liners and make them competitive with the likes of the Lusitania and Mauratania, which also had 4 funnels.

For the detail people, I was told once that the forward most funnel was actually for show. Does anyone know if that is true or not or just another sea story?

Thanks, Shaun. The scratchbuilding that I did was minor and pretty easy - like you, I had no experience with it when I began. I agree that accuracy should play second fiddle to enjoying this work; do what you enjoy and at the level you enjoy it.

I've decided to do the Marconi rigging after all, and I'm going to try to do that and the decals soon to finish her up. I've already begun work on an Academy 1:400 version with all of the photo-etch I could find and the wooden decks, and I'm also going to try to take the scratchbuilding to the next level. If I don't finish the 1:570 before I get too deep in, it will be waiting another 2 years...

Hi, Brian.  Its a tremendous site over there. But like I told Matt, the PE, at least on this kit, is going to do most of the detail work for me , since I don't have alot of experience with scratch building. Not that I won't try though ;). Again, your work has been really fun and educational to look at and an inspiration. Take your time, and we will all be looking forward to the finished product.

Shaun

Thanks Matt. I've been to the titanic site and its really out there. the section on cargo rigging alone was more than i think i could stand to do on any sailing kit! I've only just begun. One thing im not really experienced at is scratch building. But Im hoping i won't have to do much of that. Its all about how one sets one's personal parameters. If you go for accuracy on a kit, then you want to be exact with your detail. If, on the other hand your going for imagination(like in a sci-fi kit) then you can play it almost however you want. I think for Titanic, im just going to go for a nicely done kit, but not an educational model.  The PE will help with that. Hope you guys aren't eye sore from my philosophizing.  Thanks Matt,

Shaun

Shaun - I used the river counter site for most of the things I did here. The intention was to get some of my skills back before having a go at the Minicraft 1:350 Titanic. When I started the build, there were no 1:570 PE sets, but Tom's came out with one a few months in - that's the one I used. No progress to report, though I've only got decals and the Marconi wires left to go. Will get back to it and post the final pics soon; I've been distracted be the Flakpanzer and a 1:350 Trumpeter Dreadnought over the last month. The Minicraft is on my list to Santa, though, so more Titanic modeling may be on the docket for 2014...

If you're looking to go full on "detail master" on yours, I highly recommend hanging out over at the other site and lurk around for a while. There's an advanced search feature on the site where you can search JUST the model section. There's TONS of model info there. It might take a while to go through the info but, if you have no life (like me) then you'll be in great shape.

Matt

LOL! Thanks Matt. I checked out Tom's Model works, an they definitely have some sets there made for the Rev. 1/570. So as soon as I can save up for it, I'll check out both places and see whats available. I hadn't thought of Gold Medal. And as for being a rivet counter, I am a card carrying member and recovering 'Advanced Modeler Syndrome' patient. :)

If i can get this boat going, at least with the preliminary wash up and painting, i'll be thrilled. My sister's cure: just dive right in!  Thanks again, Matt.   Shaun

Hi Shaun,

For Titanic PE stuff I recommend going to either Gold Medal Models or Tom's Modelworks. Look each one of them over very carefully. Each company offers a slightly different set. Sure, they all have the basics but then one set might contain items not offered in the other. I just gave up and bought both. I'm doing the 1:350 version but the 1:570 PE sets should contain pretty much the same items as their larger counterparts.

I had to pause when I read Steve's comments about the open porthole, and then realized that I too have spent too much time over on the other site. The hardcore rivet counters over there have a way of sucking you in, until you realize you have been assimilated and are one of them. I don't mind though, I am a detail weenie at heart. I only wish I could have come up with something witty and funny and chime in.

Keep at it..... Matt

Brian, thanks for posting back. My dad got the kit for me on my birthday(big 38 ;). The Revell kit definitely needs alot of work, but one question i have is where should i look for Photo Etched detail parts, like rails and such. Guess i'll do a search on google. The Titanic modeling site is incredible to the point of being almost overwhelming; thanks for mentioning it. Anyway, keep going! You have inspired us all.

Thanks, Shuan! A better starting point - though much more expensive - is the 1:400 Academy kit. The Revell has all the railings simulated in solid plastic and no windows; really a rather poor kit. Only $20, though, so at least it's cheap.

As far as continuing the work, the rat lines are now in, as are the Finlay vents. Pretty much just the decals left to go, and the Marconi arial - if I don't skip it. 

You did a fantastic job Brian,and keep going.  I was considering the Revell kit for my birthday, and after looking at what you have done, i think i have vastly underestimated the amount of research and detail work necessary. Its a good thing im a glutton for punishment :). Once again, you did a formidable job; thankyou for sharing it with us. Shaun

LOL!  

I get it and appreciate the attention to detail.

Makes me want to build a ship. Haven't done one since I was about 10!

Ken: Over at Titanic-Model.com, they take their historical accuracy to the nth degree, and I've been there so much during the build that my first reaction was to take Steve's comment seriously...

Yesterday I was saying to someone that in my build log or comments, people only comment on the work and not my poor attempts at humor.

Turns out that PERHAPS I need to work on my material!

Great work and welcome back. Like you, I have just returned to building after decades.  Good to know I'm not the only.

TOO funny! I will definitely try to be more "historically" accurate in my own builds going forward!

Ken

Brian, this build is truly inspiring. As well as being bl**dy useful. Thank you so much for sharing your work, warts and all. Your results are beautiful. Very excited now that you're in the "home stretch."

HAH ! the 47th port hole on the aft starboard side is open and according to Rivet Counters Quarterly it should be closed. as the occupant of the cabin was  ill during the cruse.

Seriously;  very nice work to date, looks like the real deal.

I've been distracted lately by a cheap Alan 38(t) flakpanzer kit I picked up to try some weathering techniques on. Again, My painting efforts 'back in the day' we're pretty basic, and I'm jazzed by all the info I've found on filters, washes, chipping, etc. The Titanic is so close to being done, though, so I did a little more rigging this evening. The fist pic is of the first 3 lines on the aft mast, and the second tries to show how little of the broken off portions of the toothpicks remain on the deck.

It looks great the way it sits now. I wouldn't change a thing.

Matt

Thanks, arnie - I seem to take myself less seriously as I get older, so the mistakes don't bother me so much. Yes - I cobbled together a sort of slip but haven't actually mounted the ship to it yet. Another mistake: should have mounted it before the decks were in; now I have to figure out how!

First, thanks for being bold enough to share your mistakes so that we can all learn from them, which from my perspective is in no way keeping you from creating a really fine piece of work. Second, I noticed that she seems to be sitting on what looks like part of a slip. Were you planning on mounting her that way?

I found that I had to plan the rigging points early in my build (I'm doing the Minicraft 1/350). I am installing small eyelets in all the decks so I can replace any rigging that breaks or sags. There was a guy who had posted on the other site that had broken funnel rigging and he was trying to figure out how to repair the line since it was glued to the underside of the decks. The eyelets were my way of addressing the problem before it happened to me. I live in a house full of finger-poker's.

I haven't reached the lifeboat stage yet and hopefully that will go smoothly albeit time consuming. I'm still struggling with whether or not I'll put eyelets on the funnels or terminate the rigging inside. I need to see which approach looks the best.

Matt

Thanks, Matt. I really am baffled at how good this came out given how rusty I was. Don't make my mistakes; drill the holes for all the rigging before the decks are in place, and test fit the life boats to be sure you've got clearance. The lines around the foremost boats were a big problem. Get the lines mounted to the decks while you can get at the undersides! And don't put the caps on the funnels until all the rigging is in place. (You probably already knew these things, but I decided to do everything the hard way...