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20 year old Revell USS SARATOGA

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  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Saturday, October 19, 2013 3:20 PM

I HAD this kit!!!! Wow! I wonder how much a kit like this would cost now!!

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: NE Oklahoma
Posted by Allen109 on Saturday, October 19, 2013 5:35 PM

I got one for free(friend of mine picked it up for $3 at a garage sale),and I got a second one for $10 from the vendor room at a contest.

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Jax, FL
Posted by Viejo on Tuesday, October 22, 2013 6:40 AM

Progress as I overcome the fear of doing long skinny decals.

 

 

And I've even gone further....

 

 

The second one is out of focus.  Okay, I know that I didn't point them in the right direction, but they're pretty close to parallel.  Unless one is extremely  somewhat a little picky, that shouldn't be a problem.  The neat little bumps that cover the deck (the tie downs) are cool, but play havoc on the decals, I've been sticking them with a sharp knife and hitting them with decal set as I can.  The trap wires have formed a nice little tent with the decals, I think if I run the point of the knife down the top of the wire, and hit them with more set, they should be fine.  Now, it's obvious to me, if I wanted to make a strict Sara, I'd have to remove two trap wires, and the barrier doors.  I'm not that good, so I'll just keep on truckin'......

 

I'm thinking that since these decals are so touchy (see the white strip at the stern, it had been in place 48 hours before I touched it with masking tape), I should lay down some FUTURE to protect where I'll have to apply a second, overlapping decal.  Then, when I'm done with the decals, another layer of FUTURE before I start applying filters....  I think.

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: NE Oklahoma
Posted by Allen109 on Thursday, October 24, 2013 12:36 PM

I like it. I'm with you, not a fan of those long flippin decals.

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Jax, FL
Posted by Viejo on Thursday, October 24, 2013 5:04 PM

I labor on....

The long skinny decals bite.  All I have left to do with them is put the barrier decals on the elevators.

Just a warning to those who adhere to exact replications; I'm lucky to make them look good to me.  There are technical errors molded into the kit that I've not repaired.  The decals aren't placed exactly properly, and there are some deck decals I'm leaving off.

The "sixth" arresting wire, I believe, is actually the crash barrier waiting to raise.  The "fifth", on this deck mold, could be a second barrier as the molding on the deck shows the outline of two trap doors.

 

I'm getting more and more done...

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Jax, FL
Posted by Viejo on Thursday, October 24, 2013 5:05 PM

By the way, FUTURE does NOT protect decals when layering them (one or two on top of another).  More on that later...

  • Member since
    July 2007
Posted by scorpr2 on Thursday, October 24, 2013 10:35 PM

She's looking pretty good!  Keep up the good work!!

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Jax, FL
Posted by Viejo on Friday, October 25, 2013 8:23 PM
Thanks, but those runway stripes are so out of place it hurts. Right now I don't feel like dropping another 23 bucks for new ones. However, I will press on (including more pics) as I need to learn shading, weathering techniques.

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Jax, FL
Posted by Viejo on Friday, November 1, 2013 9:43 PM

Still, I press on.  Began weathering the flight deck (by the way, I'm an Air Force Brat, so NAVY stripes can be confusing, we like runways as long as possible....) after finishing the decals.  Put on the first layer of a wash of mostly (what I thought was) thinner and a couple drops of flat black acrylic.

 

Went to bed that night feeling pretty good about what I had done, but then upon awaking and checking I found the enamel undercoat had wrinkled up in a few places.

  

Not exactly sure what to do to fix this, even for my low standards, this doesn't work.

  • Member since
    July 2007
Posted by scorpr2 on Friday, November 1, 2013 10:16 PM

I'd suggest sanding those spots and re-painting them.  Good luck and keep us posted!!

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Jax, FL
Posted by Viejo on Friday, November 8, 2013 7:00 AM

Turns out, I burnished them pretty flat.  Once I coat the deck with a flat finish, I think they won't be too noticeable.  I've been working on glueing the flight deck to the hull for the past week.  The deck is slightly warped, so I started at the bow, and am working my way aft making sure that it all fits as tight as it can.  The port aft corner is the last, and the worst of the warp.  Perhaps in another couple of days I'll be able to start wrapping it up.

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Sunday, November 10, 2013 8:05 PM

mustang1989

I HAD this kit!!!! Wow! I wonder how much a kit like this would cost now!!

Heck I still have my Forestall kit unstarted in storage.

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, November 11, 2013 1:52 AM

I think you need to redo the deck.

The border stripes of the landing area are supposed to line up. About where they are across from the second elevator they get out of sinc.

Shouldn't be too difficult.

Also, the tire marks if that's what they are in the landing area look like brush stipple.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Monday, November 11, 2013 6:48 AM

Actually the landing area stripes are supposed to be over the elevator except for the starboard border which is supposed to line up with the edge of the deck near the 45 degree angle separating the landing area from the foreward launch area. Look at the pictures of the Saratoga on page 2 of this thread to see what I mean.

GMorrison

I think you need to redo the deck.

The border stripes of the landing area are supposed to line up. About where they are across from the second elevator they get out of sinc.

Shouldn't be too difficult.

Also, the tire marks if that's what they are in the landing area look like brush stipple.

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 2:28 AM

Right however this can be explained but the photo shows the problem.

The stripes have to be fixed.

If it were me, I would lay some white paint, then make the stripes with tape, then, go over it with the dark gray. Just my dos cientos.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 9:13 AM

Honestly if Revell had gone the route Italeri did with their 1/720 scale carrier kits making the stripes would have been easier.

GMorrison

Right however this can be explained but the photo shows the problem.

The stripes have to be fixed.

If it were me, I would lay some white paint, then make the stripes with tape, then, go over it with the dark gray. Just my dos cientos.

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Jax, FL
Posted by Viejo on Thursday, November 14, 2013 10:34 PM
And if 540feet (scale) of decal hadn't balled itself into a pinhead ball I could have kept the stripes lined up. Fixing those with paint will be easy but I may need help painting ALL the decals once the stripes are fixed. There is three layers of decals in two places, all multi colored.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: SF
Posted by gobears01 on Sunday, November 17, 2013 3:49 PM

Starfighter Decals has a sheet for Saratoga 1962

Offagain-Onagain

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Jax, FL
Posted by Viejo on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 3:45 PM

Yup, and as soon as I get the spare $$$, I'll be re-ordering them.

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Jax, FL
Posted by Viejo on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 3:38 PM

It's not 100% finished, but it's where I'm stopping.

I had in mind to use this model to test some techniques I've seen in FSM, and I'm happy with what I learned about them.

I appreciate all the comments, good and bad, they help as I go along refining my techniques.  If you look close at the port stern corner of the flight deck, you'll see that it still has some of the warp in it.  I think it's about 12 scale feet above where it should be.

.

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 5:55 PM

Nice job!  It's actually a lot older than a 20-year-old kit, like over twice that.  You've noted all of the issues that kits from those days can have, but you also had fun building it, and that's the main thing with these old kits.  I'm a nostalgia builder, and that's something I keep in mind, when I build a kit from my youth (I'm not quite as old as this one).

Regarding the arrestor wires, I don't think one or the other represents the crash barrier, I just think Revell probably got the count wrong.  But to us kids, back then, it looked cool as anything!  Same goes for the tie-downs.  I had no idea what they were, when I built my Oriskany, back in the day.  Again--it just looked cool, and I had fun, and was proud of my model, and the Navy.

Well done!

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2007
Posted by scorpr2 on Friday, December 20, 2013 10:13 PM

Nice job!!!  Keep up the good work!!!

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Saturday, December 21, 2013 8:58 AM

Hi Ya'll :

 Listen , I solved the stripe problem with " Extra Thin  " auto  striping tape ! I got it in White , Red , Blue and Yellow .It worked great . You did a darned good job ! I think I built this model in 1970 ! That said ,it sounded like you had fun with it anyway , All problems aside . She looks good !   Model On !  tanker - Builder

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Jax, FL
Posted by Viejo on Saturday, December 21, 2013 7:01 PM

I had a lot of fun, that's a fact.  When I get ready to redo the deck, I'll have another set of Starfighter decals on hand, and if I'm correct, all I'll have to do to "clear the deck" is wash it well with windex as everything above the sprayed color on the deck, it was all put on top of Future.

Gives me something to look forward to.  Now, back to aircraft, an area that I'm more comfortable with.

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wyoming Michigan
Posted by ejhammer on Saturday, December 21, 2013 7:44 PM

Thanks for posting. I have 4 "vintage kits, a USS ESSEX, a USS FDR, a USS Hornet and a USS Shang-ri-la, all box scale kits produced in the late 50's/early 60's. You have inspired me to start to build them.

EJ

Completed - 1/525 Round Two Lindberg repop of T2A tanker done as USS MATTAPONI, USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.

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