1/72 Type IXC U-Boat Build Log

Time for an update.

Really superb weathering! I'm building one too and am enjoying getting schooled on how it's done!

Currently I'm trying to add a little bit of a scum line along the water line. This would be a little bit of algea build up where the antifouling paint has been the most worn away. The first two photos were taken after I applied the blue-green algae. I think I may have overdone it. So I pulled it back with some AK Interactive Streaking effects for winter vehicles (third picture). I may need to do more of this to bring it back further. But it seems to be adding a good effect.

I know what you mean about waiting to do one of these. The only thing holding me back is the lack of display space. But I think you have done a cracking job on this, if mine come out like it I will be well chuffed.

I hear you. I probably should have done something similar. But I couldn't wait to put this one together. It's my third model since getting back into the hobby and I just thought I'd give it a shot. I think my u-boat would be better if if practiced though.  

I did build it many years ago, but it hasn't survived. After I got the 72nd Type VII, I thougt it would be an idea to do the 125th kit first. Not only do I get this kit again, but I can practice paiting and weathering on a kit that hasn't cost the earth. If I mess up a £10, that not to much of an issue. But a £100+ kit would is another matter.

Hopefully I can get to the 99 in the new year.

That U-99 kit looks pretty sweet. Would love to see that build.

Awesome weathering!

Mike

Thanks for that. I will note all that down. I am hoping at some point soon to do my 125th U-99 kit so I can practice all this first.

Thanks Marcus and Bish.

This is what I've done so far (after a coat of future):

1. Dark wash over the entire hull x2

Above the waterline -

2. dot filtering method with a handfull of different artist oils (raw umber, burnt sienna, blue, white, black)

3. burnt sienna in specific places and then streak downwards with mineral spirit.

Below the waterline -

4. White wash overall to fade paint

5. diluted mix of white with lighter fluid, applied by flicking it on with a flat brush. This makes it splatter. Lighter fluid makes it dry quick leaving irregular areas of fading. (Got this method from Siara).

5. Applied rust wash (burnt sienna, yellow ochre) to various areas

6. Brown wash to various areas

7. Dullcoat

8. Another round of diluted white with lighter fluid and then blended in with a flat brush.

9. A regular white filter (white w/mineral spirit) over all of this, to blend

10. Specific rust areas with burnt sienna and yellow ochre on seams and welds

That's what I've done. Totally just trying things out and seeing how it looks. Each time I do something I worry that I've gone too far. But I noticed that the dullcoat did a lot to blend things in, so the next dullcoat will probably help to blend as well.  And I also plan on using a pigment over the hull to blend things (maybe a whitish pigment).

Feedback welcome. Thanks for looking.

looking really good senor. Defiantly going to have to read back though this and see how you did that weathering. that's my biggest concern when it comes to doing one of these.

She is really looking sweet.  

Haven't posted in a while but I'm still slowly adding more weathering to the u-boat. Here's where I'm at with it. 

You are right about the deCal (lower Case C wont type for some reason). It looks too Clean. Not sure how you would reCtify that. As for the rest, looks totally natural and unforCed to my untrained eye. Any more weathering might be exCessive.

I've done some more weathing on the hull. On the port side I've been focusing below the waterline and on the starboard side i focused on above the water line. Once I get back from vacation I'll reverse things.

Here's the aft starboard side above the waterline. On both sides you'll see I had trouble with the decal. I think i'll just need to blend it in better with oils. Not sure though.

Here's the bow port side, with most of the work done below the waterline. Again, I'm disappointed in how the decal turned out (although it's not as bad as the previous one) and I'm hoping to be able to blend it in more with weathering. I'm trying to decide if I should pull back on the rust here. I don't think I'll push it any further. Any thoughts?

Very Well Done.  your skill is certainly evident  

Thanks Bish. The anchor came with the kit. It's plastic.

The screws are from the Technoart u9 fittings.

Absolutely beautiful. Now that's a nice trick with the screws. And that anchor is amazing, did that come with the kit.

As I'm slowly weathering the bottom hull on the port side, I masked off the starboard side to work on the upper hull and did some initial discoloration filtering.








Also attached the screws after letting them soak in vinegar and salt for 48 hours.

Thank you, Gene! I hope to do the rest of the hull in a way that will match (without overdoing it) this anchor.

1943Mike

Señormodeler,

This has to be the most realistic looking weathering I've yet seen with regard to rust/wear on an anchor. I am in awe of your weathering on the sub and wonder if you ever visually document the process in more detail?

<SNIP>

Agreed!  That thing looks like it's made out of metal that's been set in the ocean for a while!

And I'll +1 on the Solvaset.  I had a Mercedes DTM race car that was covered in decals (100%).  Some didn't lay down well, and shrank a bit across body panels.  It took several treatments to get things to settle down and follow the contours of the body, but they sure did.  Never give up. 

VERY nice work, sir!

Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas

Hey Mike. I hardly consider myself a master, but thanks for the kind words. I'll make an effort to document some of the in-between steps I'm taking. But mainly I'm just using a variety of artist oils (specifically gamblin oil paints) with odorless mineral spirits.

For the anchor, I started with the base coat (Lifecolor Schlickgrau III). Then did a dark filter with black oil paint. Then I sprayed future gloss on it and did a black wash. After letting that dry I applied a rust wash (just burnt sienna and mineral spirit) and let that collect in the recesses.  Then I tried adding some rust pigment -- my first time trying that. Then I thought I'd do some panzer grey chipping using the sponge technique.  Then I did another dark wash to sort of blend it all together.

I was really just experimenting. I read somewhere that some people go back and forth with washes and chipping and pigments, layering each and then going back and doing another pass. This is counter to what I normally read on here so I tried it and it gave an interesting result.

I find that it's hard to go wrong with the artist oils. They had a huge amount of tonal difference without really trying that hard.

Señormodeler,

This has to be the most realistic looking weathering I've yet seen with regard to rust/wear on an anchor. I am in awe of your weathering on the sub and wonder if you ever visually document the process in more detail?

My modeling experience is limited as is my talent for the hobby but I sure do enjoy following along on the builds of masters such as yourself in the hope that I'll learn a thing or two about this delightful pastime.

Mike

I'm slowly starting to weather the hull. I used a black wash all over the hull and then a light wash below the waterline to fade the paint. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but here's the port side bow:

Thanks so much, Phillip. After looking at your work on this forum, that means a lot. When I got back into this hobby I had no idea I'd get SO into it.

Today I put a coat of future on the hull in anticipation of applying some washes and fading and then rust.

Senormodeler-Your paint job on this project continues to amaze me.  It is SO realistic!

Phillip1

Yes, Tamiya primer works great on metal. You rust looks spot on so I would leave things as is. Remember that any chipping you do means exposed metal that will rust with the salt water. The effect is subtle and not over done.  Remember the old saying, " less is best".

Thanks for the feedback! Not sure if I'm going too far with the rust. I think I need to do some chipping now. Gonna use the sponge method and also brush.

The figures are metal. Does tamiya primer work on metal?

Next time try Solvaset. This stuff will melt just about any decal with the exception of thick Academy decals which may need freaking  Muriatic Acid     to melt down those suckers!

That tower looks impressive. The paint and weathering are just kicking butt! I see that you added something that most modelers leave out, the black line along the bottom of the island structure.

Ref. the Andrea figgies, if they are resin, wash them with dishwashing soap and dry them  with a paper towel. Only use super glue to assembly resin. You can prime with either the Tamiya rattle can primers. I like to decant Krylon black primer so I can spray a thin coat that will provide shadows as you paint them.

I stumbled across the perfect tool: a mechanical pencil with very thick lead. I retracted the lead into the pencil and the hollow end is about the size of a rivet on this model. I put the end of the pencil over decal, and over the rivet, and put pressure on it. It seemed to push the decal down around the rivet.

Meanwhile I've started some basic dot filtering and rust weathing.