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Heller Soleil Royal (WIP)

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  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Wednesday, September 14, 2016 6:07 PM

Well....quick update.

I have been vexed by the Parrel Conundrum.

Despite the help and advice offered by various members here, I have not been able to come up with a feasible method to fix parrels...yet.  After a few laughable and tedious attempts, I decided to procrastinate that particular detail and instead went ahead and attached blocks to all the yards for all the masts.  Finished the Mizzen yards today.  So I guess I have no other distractions with which to further postpone the parrels.  *sigh*

I suppose I could go ahead and start cutting out material and attaching the sails, but I really feel it's best if I focus again on this parrel situation....

Not sure why it's so hard for me to get my head around it?

Anyway, hopefully it won't be long before I have some more exciting news!

Dave

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Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by kpnuts on Sunday, August 21, 2016 3:02 PM

Superb work, as always.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Sunday, August 21, 2016 9:43 AM

I've had a little time for modeling this past week, so I figured I would check in and post some progress.

Now that I'm getting into sails and running rigging, I find that I have a lot of details to keep sorted out.  Trying to make sure I remember in which order to install parts is a big one!  Since I've sorta departed from the plans in a few ways, I have to keep stopping to make sure I'm keeping all my ducks in a row...I have notes and drawings all over my work area!

Current progress is that I have attached blocks to the sprit yards for all the running rigging that will be displayed, including clews, lifts, and brace pendants....and also some *halyard* lines...

Here's a pic of the Sprit Yard

I was concerned when I saw how widely-spaced the clew blocks looked in the plans, but with some reading ahead I realized that those clews don't go to blocks on the sprit top, but instead run directly to blocks on the forestay, then to the belaying point, so they aren't necessarily spaced very closely like all the other clew blocks.

I was planning to get blocks on all the yards before I move onto sail fiddling, but now I think it's best if I go ahead and fit the sprit yards with sails, and get them installed on the model to completion (rigged, and with Parrels) before I move on to the other yards.  The reason is so I can decide if there are any problems with my *plan of attack* before I get ALL the yards set up, and then hopefully avoid any serious backtracking.

And now it seems that I'm at the point of making my first parrel (for the Sprit Topsail Yard) and a sling (for the Sprit Yard)....I think I want to get the parrel fitted BEFORE I attach the sail, so I won't have to wrestle with the sail being in the way while I attach the parrel...so that's happening next!

After that, I'll start messing with sails...

Dave

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     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Wednesday, July 27, 2016 7:23 PM

Hey All-

This is a Red-Letter Date!

I've finished installing all the standing rigging, as well as all the mast parts...

Boom!

I've actually taken the yards out of the box, for the first time in over a year!

Now I'll set about applying oil paint to them, and then I get to start fiddling with blocks, sail material, and the never-before-visited (by me)....parrels?

Anyway, there's not much in the way of pics to share now that would be of much interest, but I suspect I'll have plenty to post soon, as I learn some new stuff and try out some ideas...

Just wanted to give a heads-up! 

Dave

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     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Friday, July 15, 2016 2:35 PM

Thanks, knputs!

The rest of the standing rigging should go pretty quickly now, only the topgallant masts remain...unfortunately, I let myself run out of a certain rigging line, so I'm now waiting for a Syren delivery.  They're usually quite speedy with shipping, so I hope to be able to continue working on it soon...

Something intersting to note, regarding a mistake in the plans, with regard to standing rigging:

All the sets of instructions I have (original Heller French, Aurora English, and Imai Japanese) call for the shrouds to be assembled using the contraption they include with the kit (sort of a loom or something?), and then the shrouds are to be set over the top of the mast, and finally attached via deadeyes.

Well, that would work fine for all the lower and topmasts, but when it comes to the topgallant masts, they are all premolded with the mastcap/heel and also the flagpoles atop them...meaning, there's no way to pull the shrouds down around them.  It's the same in the instructions for the backstays, and the stays...there are steps beforehand that call to have seizings (or a mouse, or a loop, or whatever) but they cannot be attached the topgallant masts if assembled previously.

I don't use the ratline loom anyway, and my advice for anyone would be to avoid using it (making shrouds and ratlines on the model is really easy, and honestly I think it would be terribly frustrating to try doing it any other way)...but even for me, I normally make my shrouds pairs off the model and seize them in a vise, then transfer them to the mast....but with the flagpole (?) and the mastcap molded on, that won't work either...so for the topgallant masts, all the shrouds, backstays, and stays need to be installed on the mast directly....and preferably, BEFORE installing those masts on the model!

Anyway, hope that makes some sense, and hope it might help someone avoid unnecessary backtracking!

Thanks,

Dave

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by kpnuts on Thursday, July 14, 2016 3:36 PM

Superb work Dave. 

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Saturday, July 9, 2016 6:57 PM

Mike,

You are correct.  I just went through the directions for each shade. The directions specify the use of an airbrush.  Still, the paints are rather thick, so I do not see a problem modifying the techniques for a paint brush.

Bill

  • Member since
    December 2010
  • From: Salem, Oregon
Posted by 1943Mike on Saturday, July 9, 2016 12:20 PM

Probably should mention that the Vallejo Old & New Wood Effects are the model air type of paints. For airbrush only. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Mike

"Le temps est un grand maître, mais malheureusement, il tue tous ses élèves."

Hector Berlioz

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Saturday, July 9, 2016 11:25 AM

There is another option for painting . . . Vallejo Old & New Paint Effects.  It is a set of acrylic paints with directions to replicate different types of wood. This set is a new product, and it comes with step-by-step directions to get the effects you want.  I just picked mine up this morning from my LHS.

Bill 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Saturday, July 9, 2016 9:53 AM

Genius idea, Cap'n!

Kinda like an open-air bookshelf with a fully adjustable platform!  I may have to build a prototype!  THX!

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Friday, July 8, 2016 9:19 PM

David_K
actually had to devise a way to support it at different heights now

I remember being vexed by this.  Enough to distract myself with various scribblings starring scraps of wood and heavy casters.  After far too many weeks of this (I needed the break anyway) I settled on a design.

An inverted table of sorts.  A 3/4" plywood base (possibly with a 1x4 bracing underneat).  Then, 4 2x2 at each corner, leg-like braced with 6 or 8" angle braces.  Each of the "legs" would get a strip of adjustable shelf standard attached.  Another bit of plywood would be notched to fit the "legs" and the shelf standards.  The moving shelf would be supported with shelf clips (with pins)  in the standards.  The standards have slots allowing the clips to be installed anywhere along in 32mm increments.  With the whole things set of heavy furniture casters.

The shelf standards & clips also would allow a support bar, much as fine artists use the support their brushes over still-wet oils.

Great plan, even had the materials to hand.  But, I got orders and had to move away a while.  So much for that.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Friday, July 8, 2016 5:06 PM

Aw, you guys are too kind!

Just about everything I know about ship models, how to build them, how to paint them, how to rig them...has all been learned from those among you who have shared your knowledge, and I thank you all.  What I've done with that knowledge is taken the aspects that I appreciate most, and developed a style of my own, an amalgamation which I consider (at least partly) a tribute to those whose skills I respect.  4 years have passed since I first decided to buy a plastic model ship, and though the time has gone by quickly, I've learned a ton with every new project!

mkotik, I can't really give much advice about which paints to use....I apply almost entirely in acrylic.  I use Testors Model Master Acrylics, but I also use Tamiya for certain colors.  I believe Testors now *owns* the old Humrol colors (or maybe it's Polly S?)...anyway, I bet Testors has some nice paints in the enamel line.

Just to clarify, one of the reasons I use acrylic base coats for my models (aside from acrylics being generally easier to use and less messy, smelly, etc.) is because I use the artist oil colors for weathering, darkening, and washing.  By using an acrylic basecoat, I don't have to worry about my weathering coats (oil based) reacting with and fouling the acrylic.

Again, thanks for following along!

Dave

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by rwiederrich on Friday, July 8, 2016 3:06 PM

Bill..Dave's application of oils to bring out the detail and to add shadow has been mastered by him.  I am very familiar with this technique and have used it myself.  However, I'm far too impatient to wait for it to dry thoroghly.   We used the techinique on our model train layout and on rolling stock.

Dave, has taken the technique to the highest level of realism.

I appaud him.

Rob

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Friday, July 8, 2016 8:28 AM

mkotik,

I have always preferred acrylic model paints, but Dave (author of this thread) has impressively shown how artists' oils can lead to the most exquisite results I have ever seen. 

That said, to state the obvious, you need to decide on the colors to be used.  For example, I am currently building another Le Soleil Royal as Jean Berain had her designed. He was the official responsible under Louis XIV for the external decor of the King's ships.  Berain left two paintings, one of the starboard bow and the other of the starboard quarter.  These show the ship painted a light or medium blue with gold wales.  I thought that that would be an interesting and unusual appearance for this model.  Also, other references show that the French possibly had the waterline touching just under the lowest wale so the kit's waterline needs to be raised.

Dave is following a more traditional approach, one that is equally plausible. Many paintings exist of French ships of the period painted as he painted his model.  Indeed, the Berain paintings may have been as he imagined her, not painted her.  Who really knows?

Bill

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by cerberusjf on Thursday, July 7, 2016 7:04 AM

Looks fantastic!  I'm taking notes :)

 

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by rwiederrich on Wednesday, July 6, 2016 7:11 PM

Dave...the textures and colors are so typical of a wood model...you've done so very well.

I'm currently working on the main mast yards for my Glory of the Seas.

Saturday I began a new vessel build....A scratch built 1:128 scale Great Republic, the 4 masted clipper built by Donald McKay....I have the hull nearly planked.

Your builds are always second to none bro.

Rob

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: 37deg 40.13' N 95deg 29.10'W
Posted by scottrc on Wednesday, July 6, 2016 3:19 PM

Hi Dave,

 

I just want to tell you how much I admire your work.  You really have talent for scale, balance of color, and precision.  All three are hard to accomplish on a plastic kit.  

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Wednesday, July 6, 2016 8:43 AM

Thanks, Guys!

It's a fun project...I think the topgallant masts should go much faster.

Dave

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    July 2016
Posted by mkotik on Wednesday, July 6, 2016 2:41 AM

Hi all,

 

I'm new to this forum and I appologize if I'm not using the right thread.

I just bought a new Heller SR model. It's my second one. Built the first one 26 years ago during the summer between finishing high school and joining the army. Worked on it for 30 days morning till night and of course...never completed it.

Decided to get back into it.

My question is on paint: I remember using enamel (Humbrol?) but looking for advise on what to choose this time around.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

BTW - the pictures are amazing.

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: Russia, St.Peterburg
Posted by kirill4 on Sunday, July 3, 2016 12:53 AM

Good day Dave,

Great job done!

Respect! :)))

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: Ludwigsburg Germany
Posted by dafi on Saturday, July 2, 2016 8:51 AM

Looking wonderful :-)

XXXDAn

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Saturday, July 2, 2016 7:55 AM

Stunning!  Absolutely stunning!

Bill

  • Member since
    December 2010
  • From: Salem, Oregon
Posted by 1943Mike on Friday, July 1, 2016 10:09 PM

Dave,

Your work never fails to shiver me timbers. Such gorgeous model making!!

Bow Down

Toast

Mike

"Le temps est un grand maître, mais malheureusement, il tue tous ses élèves."

Hector Berlioz

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by steve5 on Friday, July 1, 2016 9:41 PM

as usual beautiful dave , you should be very proud

steve

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Friday, July 1, 2016 9:36 PM

Thanks, Bill...I'll definitely consider getting some aftermarket ones....I think making them from scratch would be a pain. :)

Well, I finally reached a point where I thought it would be worthwhile to post a few pics, and some thoughts on current progress...

I've just completed the standing rigging of the topmasts.  It all went pretty much as you'd expect, and there weren't a lot of obstacles, fortunately!  For your enjoyment:

  Here's a wide shot, Port side...One of the biggest surprises for me is just how BIG this model is getting!  Much larger than anything I've built before (even the Black Swan)...and I still have topgallant masts to go!

Pic of some topmast shrouds...

A little bit closer.  You can see the main topmast stay leading down, with some blocks attached to it for the upper foremast braces.  For those brace blocks, I just tied a line to the stay with clove hitches, and added the blocks.  Of course, I try to pre-rig as much as I can OFF the model!

3/4 View Port from above.

Mizzen Mast with standing rigging, backstays, and stays.  Whenever I install standing rigging, I follow the practice of attaching temporary fore-and-backstay lines to the masts, and even temporary lateral false *shrouds* in an attempt to keep the mast FIRMLY in place.  Too many times I've had shrouds or stays pull a mast out of alignment, causing headaches later.  Now I keep a set of lines ready for this purpose, with loops and alligator clips already attached, so I can quickly grab any mast anywhere and fix it in place.  (one of my favorite *tools*)

Okay.  Mizzen Topmast Stays.  These gave me a headache!  lol

The first time I went to pre-rig them, I used all the same thickness of line for all parts (.018 Dark Brown)...But one of the things I like to do is use Tan line for anything that goes through a block.  I thought Standing Rigging might be an exception, so I went for Dark Brown.  I got all the rigs put together.  Tried to install them.  They looked wonky, mostly because they were all the same thickness, I think.  And I kept having blocks come off the strop while I was leading crowsfeet.  So, after having it all assembled and put together (a couple hour job) I decided to pull it all back off.  There's something about that feeling when you're holding a pair of scissors against an intricate rig, and asking yourself if snipping it off and starting over is the right choice, ya know?

Well, I snipped it, and instead of feeling like "oh, geez, now  I have whole bunch more work to do", I felt a sense of relief, knowing that I WOULD NOT regret re-doing it...it was a nice feeling.

And guess what?  I re-rigged the Mizzen Topmast Stay with 3 different sizes of line, and I used Tan for parts that reave, and I.  Like.  It.

Sorry, I know that was a long story for such a basic rigging section....but it really did hold an epiphany for me, and it became a journey, this little stay!

Topgallant Crosstrees and deadeyes....I've kept the Topmast Stays temporarily tied, until I have all the topmast standing rigging done, so I can make adjustments to bring everything back into the correct tension.  Another part of rigging that I've learned really benefits from making temporary terminations until a majority of other tense lines have been put on.  Actually, come to think of it, that will be my next step, to permanently fix those stay collars!

I love looking at the deck, especially now that there is some *business* going on down there!  Here's a shot of the base of the Foremast, and the Main Topmast Stay where it belays to the fife rail.  Somewhere down the road I'll make a number of rop coils to finish off the rails.

Starboard Side View

Another Starboard view...Next steps in the instructions have to do with attaching yards and some running rigging, BUT I want to postpone any yards until I have more of the tidy work done.  So I will be looking ahead to see if I can find any reason not to finish up the Topgallant Standing rigging before backtracking and starting on the yards.

Anyways, I guess that's pretty much it for now....

Hope some of this was interesting to you, intrepid viewers!

Thanks!

Dave

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Thursday, June 30, 2016 7:43 PM

Dave,

When you do, there are several aftermarket parrels available. I found them on www.agesofsail.com and www.hismodel.com.  You should check them out when the time comes.

Bill

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Thursday, June 30, 2016 7:00 PM

I'll be posting some progress and pics very soon; once I tie the mizzen topmast stay I'll be at a good place to present my current status.

Bill, I haven't yet done any work with any yards, so parrels haven't come into play yet...and I've never made them before.  We'll see how I feel about it once I reach that point! 

Thanks for your interest, guys!

Dave

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Thursday, June 30, 2016 5:07 PM

Dave,

I'm sorry if I missed it, but how did you handle the parrels?

Bill

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: Russia, St.Peterburg
Posted by kirill4 on Thursday, June 30, 2016 4:46 PM

Hi Dave,

Would like to see new pctrs of your job, waiting for with great interest!

pls post them more and detailed! :)

All the Best!

Kirill

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: Russia, St.Peterburg
Posted by kirill4 on Thursday, June 30, 2016 4:26 PM

Good day Bill,

Would be great to have such info! :)

still busy with collecting all availiable information of Louis XIVreign ships...

Many Thanks in advance!

Kirill

sent my email in pm

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