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Return to modeling with the 1/96 Constitution

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  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by arborvitian on Wednesday, February 18, 2015 5:11 AM

I've built a few ships, but I never got the rigging remotely close to being correct.  This is a larger scale, so it's easier to imagine succeeding.

The deeper I get into this, the more I see work ahead.  The stock capstan is laughable, and the ship's wheel leaves a lot to be desired too.  I'm wondering if I have the chops to pull off making a new ship's wheel from scratch, with the correct number of spokes.  Difficult to say the least, but if I pull it off, what an accomplishment!

  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by arborvitian on Wednesday, February 18, 2015 4:53 AM

Replacing is a must!  I destroyed several of the most delicate parts trying to cut them away from the giant blobs of plastic attaching them to the trees.  The quality of this current release kit leaves a lot to be desired.

Oh well.  I have the skills to do it, and with a few false starts, it should be fine.  Making them out of wood gives me the interesting opportunity to model the fact that the upper masts were just oiled, and their age and strength was gauged by their color.  I can come up with two or three different natural colors from my scrap pile, and then I'll just oil them prototype style, and I bet it will look perfect.

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by rdiaz on Wednesday, February 18, 2015 3:36 AM

Plastic masts and yards are not *that* terrible - the rigging system usually counteracts tension in each line with another one pulling in the opposite direction, so if you don't put excess tension, nothing should bend nor snap.

Sometimes replacing is a must, I guess. The flying jib boom a very long and thin spar, and thus very flimsy if made of styrene. Yards other than lower ones and topsails have the same problem, though the braces that would bend them backards shouldn't have a lot of tension. Royal and topgallant masts are thin, but not that long, and stays plus backstays should hold them in place - but with wood working skills like yours, scratch building them is probably a no-brainer.

  • Member since
    June 2012
Posted by arnie60 on Tuesday, February 17, 2015 7:53 PM

arborvitian
  • I do intend to replace the upper masts with something far stronger than this flimsy plastic, but as a woodturner who has made some tiny stuff on my lathe, I don't think there is any way I could ever make masts and spars thin enough to look right out of wood without them being nearly as fragile as the plastic, so I'm thinking about trying to use brass rod

I think that you will find using wood for the masts and yards will more than meet the requirements, and w/ your skills w/ a lathe, a piece of cake to make. 

I kept the base masts from the kit as they are very solid and are essentially correct and get painted white anyway, but I scratched built the rest of them and most of the yards from wood. They are holding up superbly to the tension of the rigging.Yes [I don't know what experience you have w/ rigging, and you may well already know this, that too often unexperienced riggers put too much tension in their lines {yes, I am guilty of this too!} and thats when things snap. Its not a piano and you're not going to play it.

You have laid out quite an ambitious project there, and I will be watching how things progress w/ great interest.

And thank you for the compliments on my build. If I can help in anyway...Toast

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: 37deg 40.13' N 95deg 29.10'W
Posted by scottrc on Tuesday, February 17, 2015 4:42 PM

Best of luck in joining the ranks who have built this kit.  You have a good plan and a wealth of information concerning this kit.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:21 PM

Sounds like you have a good plan. I think you'll enjoy yourself.

I'd lso suggest building up the appearance of thickness of the ships sides by framing around the inside of the gun ports.

I second rdiaz on not using the plastic sails. You've got a while to practice, and you'll be able to do much better with paper.

I wouldn't bother to drill out the pin rails. Why not just make new ones from scratch in styrene? And seriously consider attaching them to the sides with steel pins. You can drill all the way through to get good purchase, and you'll never see it on the black outside.

Good luck, sounds fun!

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by rdiaz on Tuesday, February 17, 2015 12:13 PM
I wish you the best of luck with your build. The idea of building her in the current "fighting sail" configuration is interesting. That will allow for setting up some of the (imho) handsome running rigging for the sails, without hiding a lot of work. And for some reason I find that sail configuration very aesthetically pleasing. I would, however, recommend scratch building the sails from individual strips of silkspan or fine cloth if you go that route. Less sails to work on, so you can really try to do your best on each one.
  • Member since
    February 2015
Return to modeling with the 1/96 Constitution
Posted by arborvitian on Monday, February 16, 2015 5:41 AM

I've been following arnie60's and Force9's inspiring work on the old classic Revell 1/96 USS Constitution with great interest.  I built the 1/196 version back in middle school or thereabouts, and didn't do an especially good job.  I intended to redeem myself as a ship modeler by building the Thermopylae, but at some point over the years I tossed what was left of the incomplete kit in the trash.  My life drifted a long way from modeling over the years, but after a series of recent life events I find myself in possession of a brand new current production version of the old classic.  I work 60+ hours a week, and this will probably take me five years to complete, but who knows, I might actually produce something worth displaying.

At this point in the process, I haven't acquired any paints yet, so I'm busying myself with gluing together some of the parts that want to be cleaned up and painted as assembled units.  Thus far, I've glued together all the cannon barrels, and have started separating some of the other parts into individual bags.

I am still deciding a great many questions at this point, inspired by the high bar set by Arnie and Evan.  What will I do with the color scheme?  What will I do with the transom?  The coppering of the hull?  How can I get a proper ship's wheel with 10 spokes, and make it look good?  How am I going to deal with the upper masts?

The questions I've decided so far:

  • I will use the deck from scaledecks.com instead of trying to make the three-part decks look decent.  I've spoken with John, and am looking forward to making that particular purchase

  • I will use scale rope instead of the embroidery floss supplied with the kit

  • I will probably use blocks and deadeyes from Syren

  • I am going to buy brass eye bolts instead of making my own out of bread ties, because I'm lazy, and having tried to help my wife with beading, I have advance knowledge that I'm miserably bad at forming tiny wire into loops

  • I am going to rig the shrouds and ratlines by hand, and try to get mine to look 1/100th as good as Arnie's.  I am inspired that he did such great work with shaky hands, and it gives me hope that I might manage to get in the ballpark in spite of having a fraction of the fine motor dexterity I enjoyed the last time I attempted any serious modeling

  • I am going to use the plastic sails, and do the running rigging.  I hope to achieve something like this guy on another site, but with less of an antiqued effect

  • I won't rig the studding sails, and may go with the limited rig they used on the actual ship while sailing recently

  • The belaying pins on this kit are mostly beyond salvaging, and I'm going to slice them off, drill out the holes, and replace them with brass pins as needed, in the fashion of the modern day ship.  I noticed in the Google Streetview walkthrough they put up recently, that most of the rails have empty holes, and that seems like a nice detail to model, assuming the practice "back in the day" would have been the same

  • I intend to rig the cannons on the spar deck properly, with all the tackle

  • I don't plan to do any gross structural modifications to the hull as provided

  • I do intend to replace the upper masts with something far stronger than this flimsy plastic, but as a woodturner who has made some tiny stuff on my lathe, I don't think there is any way I could ever make masts and spars thin enough to look right out of wood without them being nearly as fragile as the plastic, so I'm thinking about trying to use brass rod

  • I will turn pedestals on my wood lathe, and make a base out of a nice piece of walnut instead of using the lame plastic version included with the kit, and I will probably rig a way to bolt it using the locations molded into the hull, and #8-32 machine screws, or thereabouts

There are many, many questions as yet undecided, but this is a start.  I would probably be inclined to model the restored ship as she sits today, but that transom is a serious problem, because the molding details and spacing of the windows doesn't match the old Revell kit at all.  The cannon port covers are another serious problem, because not a single piece of my research on the ship so far supports square, flip-up covers in any way, shape, or form.  Even the painting on the box cover of the current release kit shows different doors, which happen to be of the same style as she sports in restored form today.

I definitely don't want to fill in all the little rectangular bits where the doors mount in the hull, but I'm starting to ponder on drilling holes in these single-part doors, then cutting them in half to model the split doors.  I might go that way, and I might not.  One of the reasons I got away from modeling, is that I tend to be some so obsessed with minutiae that I cripple myself by setting too high of a bar.  I should probably just do the simple thing and go on, but if I could fix the transom and alter the doors, modeling the ship as she sits today would be a no-brainer.  It's a lot easier to model something where you have tons of detailed reference photos, after all.

Well, that's my start.  I decided to join this forum today after lurking for weeks, and throw this out there.  With some luck, maybe I'll be posting pictures of something interesting before 2025.  Here's hoping!

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