1/350 USS Yorktown (CV 5) Build/WIP

Steve,

I have a PDF of the original builder's plans of the Yorktown I found online.  PM me and I'll see if can send you a copy.

Basically, the forward uptake trunk follows the angle of the leading edge of the stack section of the island.  All I did was use a piece of stock tube, sand one end to the approximate matching angle and cement it to the inside of the island's top piece.

The kit's PE stuff is fine. There are plenty of "bends" included within a single PE piece.  If you don't have to bend them too often, they won't break. You may find it easier to take apart some of the complex bendable pieces and assemble them as separate parts.  Both main deck cranes "bent" together without any trouble as did the large flight deck crane.  There are some discrepancies with the PE in the instructions however.  This is the first ship model I've built that had PE included in the kit.  I've enjoyed not having to measure out lengths of railing from a stock fret and in most cases everything has fit in place.  There are several instances though where a given sloping ladder is shown in the instructions without a call out part number for it.  The complex bend for the railing around the island platform forward of the "void" is shown as a single part (PE D6.)  The instructions show the railing fitting completely around the platform including the signal light platforms on both sides of the island.  It is obvious that the part won't make it all the way around.  I checked the Merit website and the photos of their build.  Those photos showed that the railing will fit along the platform but doesn't include the signal light bits.  However, there's no part call outs for which pieces of railings go to fit those spots.  I'm sure there are pieces of railing that will work, but will take a process of elimination to find them.  As I continue to complete installation of the PE I'm hoping there will be parts left over that obviously fill in the blanks.

I am disappointed that the PE doesn't include nettings for the two LSO platforms, wind vanes and foot ropes for the yards and a couple of radar antenna that Yorktown was carrying at Midway.  I mentioned in an earlier post that I bought a set of USN WW II radar antenna to cover that particular discrepancy, I'll probably scratch build the rest.

A few tweaks here and there.

The flight deck has been painted, decals are on and over coated with flat.  There are a couple of little spots that will require a  little fitting work, but I expected some as with any WW II carrier model.

I picked up a couple of details while studying some photos.  This crop of the ship at Midway shows that some of the railings on the foc'sl were apparently covered with canvas.  

So I grabbed some foil, painted it ocean gray and fit it over the railings like so.  It is some embossing foil I used for a Lunar Module I did a few years ago and posted here at FSM.  I believe it approximates the look OK.  (It is always a bit humbling when you come in this close to your model work.

Here's another raft stowage duplication attempt.

Here's also a spot where I've had to compromise and fudge a bit.  The kit's supplied boats only have one boat that doesn't have enclosed cabins.  So, if you leave off the deck house parts, you just have an empty boat hull with no detail.  Since Midway photos show that Yorktown didn't have any enclosed boats on the weather decks, I had a problem.  I could just put enclosed boats on deck.  I could attempt to scratch build some open boats.  I could try to find some aftermarket boats, (I couldn't.) Or, I could cover the boats with a tarp even though photos don't reveal any tarps on the boats.  I painted some foil with 20-B deck blue, as camo measure 12 dictates, fit them to the boats and weathered them.  It is a bit of a cheat, I know and I have visions of some chief chewing out some poor seaman for not having things "squared away!"

I also added some stock strip into the forward hangar deck openings.  If the roller curtains were up, these stanchions would remain.  They were removable, but photos show them in place.  The one on the left needs just a small trim.  Often you can see photos of them on various carriers leaning a bit to one side or the other, but for a model, they should look somewhat straight.  Otherwise, someone viewing your model will say, "Ya got one of them sticks a might caty-whompus there don't ya?"

Sorry for the delay in posting more WIP shots, but I've been wrestling with a somewhat troublesome flight deck.

As I've said earlier, everything has to line up and fit well for WW II CV flight decks to work.  I can't really blame this on the kit, it was my doing, but I didn't get part of the hanger bay bulkheads exactly right.  And as the saying goes, "One thing leads to another," so my error caused several misaligned parts.

When attempting to repair the problem, it lead to a problem with the 5/38 gun platform on the left.  Notice  how the piece seems to tilt slightly lower to outboard and the gap in the bulkhead.  This also created the gallery walkways to not quite fit up to the flight deck forward round down.

And it left a misfit and gap I had to attempt to repair with stock strip.

It was frustrating, but moving on the flight deck is weathered about the way I want it.

I'm using the kit base for the model.  Since every CV I've done before has been 1/700 and waterline, I haven't bothered with bases.  The kit base looked "dry dock-like" enough, because I couldn't see using any kind of polished brass pedestals with a weathered underwater hull.  While the kit base is attractive, It really didn't have much direct fit to the hull for a solid mounting.

I laminated to pieces of stock strip together (the same stuff I used for the armor belt) mounted it to the hull with small screws.  This gave some good attachment points for the kit's base.  I left the option open to remove the kit base and just use the laminated "planks."  I used five pieces for both of them and they can mount to a case and leave enough clearance for the shafts and rudder.  I'm still kicking it around.

I studied some modern shots of CVN props in dry dock and came up with this look for the kit's props.  I painted them in Acryl steel and then applied a dry brushing of light gray mixed with a little touch of green.  I believe I got a good approximate look.

I've had to go aftermarket again to get more aircraft than came with the kit.  I intend to have the model represent Yorktown spotted for launching the ten SBD scouts and the six F4F CAP a/c that were launched at dawn on 6/4/1942.

Mike,

I love what you're doing with this kit!  Very tempted to but one for the stash.

Steve

A few new shots:

There was a boom on the ships starboard side as you can see from the 6/4/1942 photo.

Using some stock rod, guitar string and a few leftover odds and ends of old PE, I believe a reasonable approximation was reached.

The island has been installed and most of the PE work is finished.  Notice the gap in the railings.  The kit's PE is all pre-sized and part numbered.  As I've mentioned before the kit's instructions have missed a few part number call outs and some of the railings have gaps or don't complete the area to be covered.

The kit's instructions call for nine rafts to be mounted beneath the island, but the only photo I know of Yorktown's starboard side prior to damage on 6/4/1942 only shows eight.  The kit only allows for individual rafts, but there were two each stacked together and lashed.  I couldn't find any aftermarket 1/350th rafts that matched the kit's, which look correct, so I just doubled each kit raft with some stock plastic.

Having never done a full hull WW II carrier, I've never been able to do this rigging at the bow before.  I tried to match the shape of the underwater fitting with the ship's builder's plans.  I used guitar string sections for the cables.  I'm not sure why this was there.  Perhaps someone can enlighten me, but in this scale they need to be represented.

The island detailing is the next big step.  The kits method of doing the stack railings was a fun challenge.

Hey Mike - glad to see your progress! Those chains off the bow were for the paravanes.

Thanks Tracy.

The plans show the paravane rigging and the kit has some paravanes to mount on the foc'sle but the 6/1942 photos don't show them.  So, I left them off.  I knew the stem post fitting was used for the rigging, but I didn't understand that the two cables on the bow were part of it.

Thanks again.

Paravane sweep gear rally only works against moored mines, which only occur in water shallow enough to anchor those mines.  Carriers were just too valuable to take into shoal waters, adn if that were necessary, smaller, more expendable minesweepers could be sent on ahead.

The rigging at the bow is a combination inhaul and outhaul.  The sweep cable is laid out, outboard of all lifelines and ship's structure.  This is tied off with marline and small stuff.  The paravane, otters, and the like are rigged at the aft end.  The inhaul is brought to deck level, and the forward (inboard) end of the sweep wire (or wires) is made up to a shackle on the un/out haul/

The paravane (or paravanes) are let go and the towing eye is hauled down to the forefoot.  The 'vanes then stream the sweep wires out.

For ships without a fixed foot at the bow, there was a sliding foot, which was hauled down into place with yet another pair of chain hauls.

Which makes for a bunch of test questions to grill midshipmen in NROTC classes, and to complicate the 1c & Chief's Bosun's testing materials.

giving a true definition of the term bowline.

Here's a few more photos of the island with most of the work done.  I thought I'd include a few photos before any more rigging is added.

I've completed installation of all the photo etch, AA guns, etc.  I'm going to rig some halyards, etc., before adding the extra antenna I bought from Tom's Modelworks.

The bend you see at the top of the foremast is to support the YE antenna when installed.  That small antenna needs a little extra surface area to hold to.  It is a cheat I learned doing the 1/700th carriers.

The kit contains deck furniture for the island and the instructions call for its installation even though that gear was removed in Norfolk prior to Yorktown's return to the Pacific in Jan. '42.  If someone wants to build the model of Yorktown as built, those parts would be welcome additions.  I found substitute pieces for all but one of the gaps in the railings.  I had to fill it with foil.  It is a problem with the kit.  It can be fixed with buying additional PE railings, or using some of the island railings to fill the gaps and then using solid replacements for the railing around the island.  I might have done that if I'd known that kit supplied PE would fall short.

As you can see there are spots within the railings where canvas covers were used.  I could have used foil to replace the railings just aft of the pilot house.  As is, I covered those with foil to simulate canvas. That ended up leaving me short to fill the gaps left because the kit's railings don't fill every space.

I've finished the rigging and the ship is basically complete.  There are always a few tweaks and touch-ups to do.

The rigging consists of used guitar string, some craft shop beading wire and a few odds and ends grabbed from old 1/700th PE frets.

The CXAM radar is from the kit PE.  The other antenna are from Tom's.  Most of the work was trying to match photos of the ship as referenced in past posts.

I'd love to have really fine stuff and do more halyards, etc., but it obviously would start looking too busy.  The thinnest wire I used was .08 of an inch.

I've got to figure out what sort of case I need and of course, do the 16 aircraft representing the dawn CAP and search Yorktown launched on 6/4/42.

Nicely done. Going to build the airwing next?

Needs a base

I can't decide to go with a wooden base, or a simple acrylic one.

Really coming along great,lots of details.

This model is beautiful!  I would take the little time and go for a wooden base.

Groot

Mike,

Dang you did a great job on her. I like the idea of using guitar strings for rigging. What did you use High E .009 Ernie Ball Super Slinky?

Steve

Steve,

Thanks.

As for the strings, I'm a Martin acoustic man.   The .08 string comes from a 12-string set of extra lights.  Most of the others are Gs, Bs and Es from a standard set of acoustic light strings.  They go from .10-.11-.12.

I've used the wrapped base strings when I've needed the texture.  I've also used them to represent antenna.

I find the guitar strings to be very useful.  One, they are already stretched.  So having them straight usually isn't a problem. Therefore, there's no tension to pull a plastic mast, etc., out of line.  I've also found that I can often get a pretty good sag to them, when I hang them correctly.

Looking really good.

Thanks, G.

Sorry, no photos here.  Just working on aircraft.

Mike,

I only use Martin strings on my acoustic guitar, so I have a supply when needed. Thanks again for explaining how you use them.

Since you are working on the planes at this time, have you seen the Merit 1/350 ready made planes for the Yorktown? And if so, what is your opinion of them. I purchased the Devastors last week and they are not really that bad. They can use some weathering but compared to the Trumpeter 1/350 supplied planes they are equal if not better. I have not really looked at the Merit planes in my Yorktown kit yet, so I would like your opinion.

Steve

Steve,

The photos I've seen of the available Merit aircraft have incorrect markings on them for the Midway battle.  Those I've seen show the red circle in the center of the star and red and white stripes on the rudders.

That would be correct for the Coral Sea battle, but all red markings were ordered removed from US aircraft by mid-May.  USN aircraft at Midway had plain rudders and no red circle in the stars.

My kit aircraft were Trumpeter's, molded in clear plastic.  I used them for birds on the hanger deck.  I ordered more Trumpeter Wildcat and Dauntless aircraft and they came molded in light gray and black with clear canopies.  The three different colors were all cleverly joined together with interlocking sprues so that each sprue contained the parts for one aircraft.

Starfighter decals has released a set of Yorktown air group markings for the Midway battle and I've used those for my project.  The correct roundel should have each star point touching the edge of the blue circle.  The kit's decals and the Trumpeter decals all show a considerable amount of blue circle surrounding each star, so I didn't want to use them.  The Starfighter set shows a slight border of blue around the stars, but it is more acceptable than the others.

If Merit has released some with the correct Midway markings, I imagine they work very well.  Of course, painting the rudders and mounting the correct roundels isn't a hard adjustment either.

When I started this project, I'd hoped I wouldn't need to go wild with purchasing lots of AM stuff to complete it.  I knew I'd need a case which would equal the kit's cost, but with the included PE and a/c,  I thought I wouldn't need to purchase much beyond the kit.  It hasn't turned out that way but I still, just for the sake of being true to the original project concept, have tried to keep it that way.

I plan to post some aircraft stuff soon.

Here's a few shots of my attempt at a 1/350th SBD Dauntless.

This is a Trumpeter SBD as mentioned in the last post.  The antenna mast in front of the canopy is a PE 1/700th prop blade.  The kit makes no provision for this part, but in this scale I believe something has to be there.  Those masts were very obvious.

The decals, again as mentioned above, are from the Starfighter Yorktown at Midway set.  While the vertical tail is blocked in the clamp, some of the ten SBDs I'll mount to the flight deck will have a "S" on the tail, some won't.  The Yorktown's bombing squadron VB-5 was changed to a scouting squadron during the rushed mash-up of squadrons fit together to make an air group for the ship at Midway.  A large "S" wasn't standard, but was included on some of the aircraft.  Apparently all the aircraft received an "S" after the battle.  The aircraft retained the unusual marking until the squadron was relieved later in 1942.  The wing walkways are stripes from my spares box.  The faded reddish prop spinner was on all VB/S-5 aircraft, if a spinner was on the a/c.  Many SBDs lost or removed the spinner from their props.

Sometimes the parts on the small kits fit well sometimes they don't.  I've had to sand the locating pins off all the fuselage parts to help them fit plus there's some nasty flash inside the fuselage halves.  All the SBDs left a gap between wing and fuselage, and while it looks huge in these close-ups, it isn't noticeable with the aircraft on the flight deck.  The lumps on the trailing edges of the wings are the sprue attachment points for the part.  Its a compromise between sanding the small part to remove them and also removing the tell-tale SBD dive flaps.  I decided to leave well enough alone.

All ten aircraft needed a bomb so I made them from stock rod and two pieces of angled pieces glued together to represent the fins.  I thought of buying some aftermarket scale bombs, but I'd have to buy a lot of sets of different sizes just to get the ten bombs I needed.  I believe this works well enough since the bombs aren't really seen all that much when viewing the entire carrier model.  I tried to make some kind of bomb swing from wire, but couldn't get it to conform as I wanted and look right.  I believe flat PE parts wouldn't really work either.

I thought hard about getting some detail sets for the SBDs and decided I didn't need to include landing gear doors or other enhancements.  The six Wildcats though are another story.  The F4F landing gear was rather unique and the Trumpeter gear, in my view, doesn't get it done.  In fact, it looks a little bizarre.  I've ordered some PE stuff for Wildcats and will post photos as I work on them.

Wow!  I've missed following your project, you've got some excellent detail here in your Yorktown. 

You're using Trumpeter's aircraft sets--did Merit include any aircraft in the kit, and if so, how did they stack up?  Apologies if you mentioned that and I missed it as I browsed through the thread.

I look forward to seeing your continued progress!

Best regards,

Brad

Awesome work so far, keep posting the great pics!

Merit is using Trumpeter aircraft, so they're the same.

Yes, the kit includes Trumpeter aircraft molded in clear, which I must admit I'm not very fond of.  Painting the clear parts makes it easier to assemble them, but you are still dealing with that brittle, clear plastic.

As mentioned, the extra a/c I purchased were molded in three separate colors.  There's a sprue of gray containing the wings, empennage and fuselage halves.  The three landing gear pieces and prop are molded in black plastic and the canopy is clear.  Each of the sprues are connected at joints so that all the parts for a single a/c are together.  Not using the clear for everything makes them much easier to assemble and less fragile. (I had one clear F4F shatter as I tried clamping the two fuselage halves together with a pair of interlocking tweezers.)

The Starfighter decal set contains lots of roundels, in four sizes, so wing and fuselage markings can be the correct different sizes.  There are sets of numbers separately for each squadron.

The six Wildcats will display their correct numbers as the list was provided in Lundstrom's "The First Team."  The six a/c launched for the dawn CAP was VF-3's second division aircraft numbers 7-12.  I looked long and hard to try and find the numbers for the ten SBD scouts launched after the CAP, but couldn't find the info.  So, I numbered those a/c arbitrarily.  It doesn't really matter all that much because even at 1/350th viewing distances, the numbers aren't that visible.

But it is nice when you can get the history right.  

Mike F6F

Yes, the kit includes Trumpeter aircraft molded in clear, which I must admit I'm not very fond of.  Painting the clear parts makes it easier to assemble them, but you are still dealing with that brittle, clear plastic.

As mentioned, the extra a/c I purchased were molded in three separate colors.  There's a sprue of gray containing the wings, empennage and fuselage halves.  The three landing gear pieces and prop are molded in black plastic and the canopy is clear.  Each of the sprues are connected at joints so that all the parts for a single a/c are together.  Not using the clear for everything makes them much easier to assemble and less fragile. (I had one clear F4F shatter as I tried clamping the two fuselage halves together with a pair of interlocking tweezers.)...

Thanks, Mike!  I haven't been keeping up with Trumpeter's development of the aircraft sets.  I only knew about those in clear styrene but haven't seen the sets with parts in three colors.  I've been using Trumpeter sets to replace the solid aircraft in kits by Hasegawa, Tamiya, etc

Yours look great, and they look like little kits in their own right.

The original trumpeter aircraft sets were done in the three colors (these were for their Hornet and Essex class releases) but the newer Merit releases using the Trumpeter molds, have all of the same sprues molded totally in clear. So the three-color sets are the older ones, but the new all-clear ones are the same molds with no new features.

OK here's a few views of F4F Wildcats.

The kit Wildcats are smaller than the Dauntless a/c of course, but come with folding wings which may or may not fit well together.  The landing gear though just don't look correct as built.  F4F landing gear folded into the fuselage in a scissor-like motion.  The landing gear has parts that fit between the gear.  Showing just two posts and wheels looked strange to me.

Tom's Modelworks provides a PE set that solves the problem and at least fills the gap.  There's sets from White Ensign Models that are more elaborate and even include tiny cockpit layouts.  They would be a fun challenge, but once mounting a carrier in a case would render all the work the cockpits require moot in my view.  The viewer could never get close enough to see them.

While I don't mind flat props in 1/700th scale, I chose to use the molded kit props instead of the PE props.  Wildcats had cuffed Curtis electric props which require painting the aluminum cuffs on the generic kit props.  The PE set included antenna masts, very tiny things, that I believe are as necessary as those on the SBDs.

Once the a/c are mounted on the flight deck, I'm basically finished.  There're a couple of tweaks and touch-ups on the ship yet to do.  (Does anyone ever eliminate all those little shiny brass missed paint spots on PE parts?)

Waiting on case.