heller le glorieux 1/150

don't know if this is still my thread , see how these go .

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Steve,

My bad. I apologize!

Bill

Absolutely beautiful Steve. Is that all Tamiya paint & what color? This is going to be another beauty. When are you coming here to rig for me? I could sure use you. Sorry we have used your site for our personal talks, but we get carried away.   Gene

Try not to Gene, because some of the comments definitely wandered out of bounds for the forum rules.

That makes it hard for the rest of us to enjoy the site without the stress of everyday life.

Bill

not so bill , feeling a bit down last night , I was also sorry to hear what happened to you , hope your getting well mate .

gene

unfortunately not any time soon , would love to see your collection , and meet yourself .the blue is from of all place's ALDI $2 a bottle , 60ml , couldn't help myself bought $10 worth . they're not bad .

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Steve,

Thanks! I appreciate the thought.  The Navy put me through their five-week PTSD/TBI program this summer, and I did well in that environment. But, they will follow up again early in November with a full quarter completed in school.  I have had several problems that I will need to share at that time.  Perhaps they will decide full disability and I will be able to build model ships full time.  We'll see.

Bill

Is that acrylic paint & how does it work for you.? Looks to do real good. What kind of gold are you using? Again, your paint job is perfect. 

bill

I will keep my finger's crossed for you

gene

yes they are acrylic , it's funny though they take a couple of hour's to dry . can't complain though the price was right . thank's for the nice word's too mate . almost forgot I used tamiya gold leaf .

Enamels dry from the inside out.

Acrylics dry from the outside in.

Either way wait a day.

I really like the colors you've chosen. The colors look very regal to my eyes.

You're doing a great job on this kit!

I'm anxious to start one of my 1/350 ships but I still have a week or two to finish a TA-4F Skyhawk I'm building for a friend of mine. Then back to ships!.

gmorrison

did not know that , thank's

mike

thank's for that ,I can't wait for you to start one as well .

One issue that I have had by using acrylics is that they lift off easily when I try to remove masks between my colors. But, I love using them simply because they are less obnoxious for my family than the odors given off by enamels and lacquers.  I have tried using a layer of clearcoat, but it doesn't work for me. Any suggestions?

Bill

It is a problem. With enamels, when I have paint lift problems I look on the back of the chips stuck to the tape because that shows what failed to hold. It tends to be the primer, not holding to the plastic. Attention to clean plastic, solid application of primer, adequate drying time helps.

With acrylics, I get more problems with one color coat not bonding to another.

Im not sure what the solution to that is. The best bet I have is to really reduce the sticky of the tape to near zero, and not leave it on for very long.

Bill, I hadn't had any problems with acrylics lifting & I burnish any Tamiya masking tape down with a toothpick to get a clean line. I was using most all Tamiya acrylics. When I started using MM without priming they lifted. 

   Now I prime everything with a white or gray lacquer primer. I use white on ships because sometimes it is a final color. The MM acrylics are not lifting now. I spray the spray can lacquer thru a straw into my 1/2 oz airbrush bottles & run it thru my airbrush. The lacquer primer has never hurt the model plastic, but lacquer color will etch it. You can use lacquer color over lacquer primer on plastic ok.

   I do brush a lot of things on ships like the raised boards ( forgot the name of them) & then I just have to mask with a 1/8 piece of tape on each side. MM does brush beautifully. .  

 I never liked Tamiya's primer & I can get a big can of lacquer primer for $5. I use that gray auto 3M type of sanding pad. It is 2000 grit & I got it at Napa.It smooth's the primer out nice.

   I do put a hull completely together with the shroud tables & any structural parts on before I prime. Then I will spray the deck & use the thin masking to hand paint the inside of the ship. Works great that way.I add all the details later. I also use that white Formula 560 canopy glue for anything like cannons , because it sticks good o painted surfaces.

One thing that helps is to use the right masking tape. The common tan-colored stuff that's used for painting houses is almost guaranteed to rip off any paint under it. Tamiya makes a tape that's designed for models. It has a lower tack, and probably (not necessarily) won't pull off the paint under it - provided that coat is nice and dry. I recently bought, from MicroMark, a couple of spools of tape made by 3M. I haven't had occasion to use it much yet, but it's promoted as being easy to peel and it can take curves nicely.

I think some modelers (I'm not talking about GM, or Don, or Bill) haven't figured out what primer does for them. It does NOT stick better to the plastic than the finish coat. Modern hobby paints are specifically formulated to stick to styrene. If they don't (after reasonable drying time), either the modeler has done something wrong or the particular bottle of paint is defective.

The other benefit of primer is that it makes all the parts under the finish coat the same color. Theoretically I guess that shouldn't matter, in that the finishing coats can cover up whatever color is under them. In practice, though, if you try to paint a piece of black plastic bright yellow, it will take several coats to cover the black completely - and by the time that happens the yellow paint may be so thick that it conceals details. And if you've got some light grey filler on the joints in the black plastic, it will take a lot of coats to obliterate the border between the two. That's where a coat of nice, neutral grey primer really helps.

I'm not suggesting that primer is useless. Far from it. But the modeler needs to be aware that the primer accomplishes some things and doesn't accomplish others.

My most recent major paint job was the hull of the plank-on-solid wood fishing schooner I'm working on. After gluing all the basswood planks to the hull, and sanding them smooth (which took forever), I followed the advice of a modeling friend and gave the whole hull exterior two coats of old-fashioned AeroGloss sanding sealer. (My wife thereby got her first exposure to the delightful smell of airplane dope.) I let it dry for a day after the second coat, scuff-sanded it once more, and painted the bottom with Model Shipways acrylic. Then I waited several hours, laid down some Tamiya masking tape at the waterline, and painted the above-the-waterline planking with Model Shipways "hull/spar black." Worked fine.

This is one area where wood is easier to work with than styrene.

Gentlemen,

I haven't had any lift issues with enamels, only MM acrylics.  I do use Tamiya masking tape for most modeling paint jobs.  Therefore, I will shift to Tamiya paints on Gene's recommendation. Thanks!

Bill

got a bit more painting done

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I've got a query for for all the ship builder's out there , when I put the eyelet's in on the top deck for the rigging of the cannon's , do you drill all the way through  the hull , and patch the outside . if not how do you gauge your drilling depth .

Steve & Bill, I have had good luck with MM when used over lacquer primer. I always wash my plastic with alcohol before painting. I won't argue with John, but I do have better luck with paints over primer.

 On the eyelets, I have a bunch of very small copper eyelets with a 3/4" shaft that I clip to needed length. I have not tried to drill from inside, but these only take about a #73 drill so the hole might not even show after painting. These are leftovers from my wood boat building days & I don't know where they came from.

 What John says is always interesting, & I don't know anything about what the primer does, it just works. John, could my auto lacquer primer adhere better than other's. I imagine that dope primer would eat plastic wouldn't it? Color lacquer does , but not over primer. 

Steve,

That is a wonderful paint job!

Bill

Steve, I happened to think,rare, that if you drilled a tight hole & pushed the eyelet all the way thru & clipped it off after close to the hull, it would fill the hole. I always set those eyelets with CA glue. Might work. Also you could experiment with drilling a very shallow hole & CA glue the eyelet into it. There is no strain on them like a shroud. That is why I CA glue the shroud tables to the hull before painting. I even use Tamiya plastic glue first & CA glue after on them.

I think the fittings being discussed here are generally called eyebolts. (An eyelet, as used in ship modeling, is a stamped piece of metal with a flange on it, often used to represent portholes.

My first piece of advice when it comes to the styrene eyebolts that come in kits is: throw them out. Plastic just isn't a good material for that purpose. The first time you give a line secured to a plastic eyebolt a good yank, the eyebolt will break.

The wood ship model suppliers, like ModelExpo and Bluejacket sell brass eyebolts. Personally, though, I like to make my own out of brass wire. Soften the wire over a candle frame. Then wrap it around a mandrel. If you've got a set of drill bits, #60 through #80, you can make eyebolts as strong as you want to. Twist the ends into a pigtail. The ideal way to mount a wire eyebolt in a plastic deck is to spread the ends apart underneath and superglue them to the bottom of the deck. If you can't get at the bottom of the deck, just superglue the eyebolts into the deck.

The depth of the hole shouldn't make any difference unless both ends of it are visible on the finished model.

your quite right jtilley , they will break , you advised me a long time ago to throw these thing's away , I watched a paul budzig video on u-tube , so I made a couple of tool's for the purpose , this one is a piece of .8mm copper rod in a vice pin .

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the eyebolt on the right is the .8mm , I will use these in the deck . don't know where I got the one's on the left but they will be small enough for the cannon rigging

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Steve, those little copper ones I have are super. They are about the size of your little ones & have a 3/4" shaft. I use them for everything. I have never had one go bad in rigging. I set them with CA. Look on the ship model supply supply places. I probably got them from Model Expo as i used them a lot in the past.

   I even stopped in I beleve New Jersy when Model Expo was up there & bought 2 ship kits. We were coming back from Nova Scotia to Florida. That has been nearly 40 years ago.

figurehead ready to go on ,

sound's like you got around a bit gene , the hole in the small one's is about .5mm

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I bought a bag of copper eyes frmom Caldercraft some years ago. 100s of them. 

what for mr morrison .

I've run some rigging through the 10 cannons seen on the upper gun deck , I'm having your trouble baxter ,the decking colour just isn't coming through .

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