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Tks Gene, as you suggested I went back and reglued all my cannons down with the canopy glue. It also works well on knots, just keep in mind it takes a good bit longer to dry on the knots. I still prefer the Tamiya xtra thin glue for knots, it also dries clear. As you can see from the new pics the canopy glue dries clear with no signs of it being used. Just a bit more touch up painting and I will be ready to cover up the gun deck. I am still waiting on any suggestions of what to do with the gun port lids. After looking at the pics, I realized there was a bit more touch up painting to do :)
Dale, on spending too much time on the site, I really spend most of mine on building my ship. I do spend time here at breakfast & after I quit building for the day. Even at my age I can't wait to get back down on my model.
Hi Dale, your new ,is it fotki, pictures are great. I never liked looking at Photocopy. It was always too small & fotki blows up beautiful.I would love to see your Constitution. I picked up a monogram 1/120 Imai Conny & will build it pretty much Out of the box. Maybe including the shrouds.
Dale, I use 560 for everything I can, as it does hold & I don't believe I have ever had anything break off,I glue the hull together with AC & my 1x2 with AC or epoxy. I use 560 to glue the deck in & all the deck furniture & cannons & everything I can. I haven't tried it on thread.
I finally have a whole day and evening to devote too my build. I installed a couple of the gun port hatches/lids and do like the appearance. I do know that the general consensus is that the earlier Constitution fittings did not have hinges and that the 2 piece lids were a latter fitting. I have read that the lids were removed during battle mode. I have found that the lids are extremely delicate and the slightest bump and they come off. For this reason and the fact that they were not probable there to begin with, I have decided not to install all of them. The info I have not found is what was done with these hatches/lids after removal for battle. Were they taken down to the gun deck or lashed to the spar deck ? Dale
I got my eye bolts blackened. I first clean the brass eye bolts in denatured alcohol, rinse with cool water, dry throughly. Try not to touch the brass bits, this keeps your skin oil off them. I then soak in a small amount of Birchwood Casey Brass Black for a few minutes , drain excess and dry on papertowell, again try not to touch pieces as this will remove the blackening, plus it is toxic. Once dry, I apply a coat of MM Acrylic clear coat. This will keep the blackening from rubbing off as easily.
Tks Steve, if yall go back a page I re-posted the images that did not show the first couple of tries.
very nice livit ,
this is a larger image you can zoom in on
Finally ! Bill, I used fotki as you suggested and your right, "it's so easy even this caveman can do it" and you get a 30 day free trial, plus decent how-to help. Love the drag and drop feature... tks my lfriend. Now I can get back to posting some more pics and building. Dale
Woohoo!!
Coca Cola
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
let me know if yall can see these 2 pics please
Yup it got me a bit flustered ! Bill I am going to give your suggested image hosting site a try. I dont mind spending a little amount if it works right ! FSM should start doing image hosting, All my RC sites do it. Heck I wouldnt even mind a couple of dollar fee charged to be able to use there image hosting. EJ, its a shame how many quality build threads that now no longer have any images or very few because of greed !
LIVIT I am having to spend more time doing this thread and trying to get pics up than I am getting to build. As the song says "The thrill is gone" this is getting to be more of a PITA than I have time to invest !
I am having to spend more time doing this thread and trying to get pics up than I am getting to build. As the song says "The thrill is gone" this is getting to be more of a PITA than I have time to invest !
I agree. I have all my pics on a hard drive, but re entering all that stuff from each thread takes a lot of time. In the end, is any other hosting site gonna do the same thing as PB? Then we're back to where we started. It's so frustrating that I'm not sure it's worth the time and effort to post pics anymore. Maybe just for a one-of post or something. I just don't want to spend a bunch of time taking the pics, posting to a hosting site, Re-posting from there to the forum thread in a linear fashton with text, all so all you see is a bunch of "this picture has been deleted or moved" info in a box. Without the pics it loses the whole effect. "A picture is worth a thousand words", but a picture that's been blocked or deleted is worth nothing.
Might just have to go back to being a troll.
EJ
Completed - 1/525 Round Two Lindberg repop of T2A tanker done as USS MATTAPONI, USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.
There's some issue with Google Pics and certain browsers. I can't get it to work either. I use Fotki and I really like it. Costs about $ 20 a year or less, I don't remember. Fast, NO ADS, and drag and drop from camera to hosting site.
Hoping to see some images of what you've done. No luck yet - just the blank area with circles in the middle.
Mike
Hector Berlioz
No, still no go.
Try deleting the files from GP, and then uploading again, then go through the process mentioned.
Tks again, that should of fixed them. Dale
Mate,
Your last two images dont display correctly, make sure you select "copy image address" and not "copy image".
I have a bit of touch up painting to do on gun deck, tie down some mast bits to gun deck and install captains quarters. Which again I am not getting fancy on. I brush painted most of it, except copper on hull and a varying darkness coat of MM wood on the gundeck prior to adhering the wood scale deck, that brought out the details a bit more. In my mind, I cannot see the white on the gun deck walls being perfect. What image I get is like the white washed fence in the Tom Sawyer movie, I cannot see it having that airbrushed look. I am sure the spar deck had a bit more attention to detail being done to it.
Finally able to get pics posted tks to a member downunder. This is what I've got so far. Like I had previously mentioned "nothing that fancy or an amazing build" just basic plus a bit.
Tks Mark, trying to use google pics and not having much luck. Maybe someone will tell me what I am doing wrong.
Using the xtra thin Tamiya on the Syren rigging line works, but the Syren line absorbs faster and spreads, so you have more line that is a bit stiff. I am still happy with the results.
Cant see the photos
I'll try the tamiya thin and let you know how it turned out -thanks
Good photos couple post more. Finally !
This is first post with new PC. All that updating took awhile !
Mark, the Syren line is not fuzzy at all. It looks just like miniature rope, not sewing thread :).... I used Tamiyal extra thin for tying in my gundeck cannons. It is almost as fast setting as CA, but does not have the sheen that CA does. That was with the line that came with the kit, not sure yet how its going to work on the Syren waxed line.
Hey Livit,
that's a great subject on the knots! What do you guys use after tying a knot? I have in the past used a pinhead of CA but the only thing is it looks like you used CA and it looks terrible. I've tried several things that doesn't dry as fast and but nothing works like CA,everything else you have to let it dry overnight. Let me know how the syren works out,I'm about to buy some not only because it looks great but I believe its not fuzzy like the line that comes in the kit and it would be nice not to have to run every line through bees wax before applying.
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