I hope the following doesn't come across like pontificating, or "I told you so," but I'm a little uncomfortable sitting by watching while people spend lots of unnecessary money.
When it comes to aftermarket parts, my suggestion is: 1. Come up with a list of the parts you think you're likely to need in the fairly near future. 2. Study the suppliers' websites and figure out which of their products look like they'll work for that purpose. (You probably won't be able to tell for sure from the descriptions and pictures.) 3. Order a dozen of each, and find out which ones actually will work. 4. Order as many of those fittings you think you'll need over the stretch of a month or two - with a dozen or so extras to compensate for losses and damage.
If you're currently working on the hull of a ship model, you're months - maybe years - away from doing the running rigging. There's no reason whatever to spend hundreds of dollars on blocks and deadeyes that you won't need till sometime in 2007. Those companies are used to doing mail order, and give good service; waiting for deliveries won't slow you down significantly.
It's also unnecessary to decide in the early stages of such a project just how much rigging you're going to install. As we've established earlier, there's plenty of room for personal choice and taste there. The difference between rigging a model of a full-rigged ship with the basic running rigging and all the sail gear is a difference of hundreds of blocks. To order all of them when you've just started work on the model doesn't make much sense.
The first steps in the rigging process involve the lower shrouds and stays. They require the biggest deadeyes and hearts in the ship. The lower deadeyes, being secured to the channels and the hull by the chainplates, do need to be considered early in the construction process. Those are the first fittings to buy. If you work at typical speed, you won't need the corresponding upper deadeyes for several months.
Throw the Heller rigging instructions away. The people responsible for them didn't understand rigging, and in any case the instructions are geared toward the fittings that came with the kit - which, as we've established, aren't useable. The foldout plans in the Longridge book, if I remember correctly, are reproduced at 1/8"=1' scale (1/96). that's close enough to 1/100 that you can get the correct sizes of the blocks and deadeyes from the drawings. (If I'm wrong about the scale of the reproductions, you can either have them enlarged on a copy machine or do the arithmetic to get the block sizes.)
An eighteenth-century ship-of-the-line had many different sizes and types of blocks in its rigging. A miniature block that's 3/32" long represents, on 1/100 scale, a block that's about 9" long. That's a good-sized block, though not an enormous one. You probably won't need anything smaller. How many 3/32" blocks you'll actually need will depend on how much rigging you install, but you'll probably end up using quite a few of them.
The smaller the block, the harder it is to work with. One of the few user-friendly features built into a sailing ship model is that, as a general rule, the higher up you get, the smaller the blocks and deadeyes get. So the first ones you rig are the biggest - and easiest. Those 3/32" blocks are tiny, all right - but you probably won't need any of them for a long time.
I find that three tools are necessary for making Bluejacket blocks work: a pair of tweezers, an appropriately-sized drill bit in a pin vise, and a small, knife-edged file. (The latter, unfortunately, seems harder to find these days than it used to be. I've got a little German one that I bought many years ago, and I guard it with my life. If you can't find a knife-edged file, the smallest triangular one you can find will probably work.) It also helps, in the case of the smallest blocks, to have a small hand vise, or perhaps a hemostat, to hold the block while you work on it.
The procedure I use is: 1. Ream out the hole with the drill. 2. Break off the casting sprue (if any) with the tweezers. 3. Clean up the groove around the circumference with the file. 4. Thread the block onto a piece of wire. 5. When all the blocks you're going to need in this rigging session (plus a few spares) are threaded onto the wire, twist the ends of the wire together. That will keep you from losing the blocks during the nexts step. 6. If you want the blocks to be black - dip them in Bluejacket's "Pewter Black." Lay them on a piece of tissue paper to dry, then shoot them with clear flat spray lacquer. If you want them to be brown - spray them lightly with Floquil metal primer, then brush-paint them with a thin coat of brown hobby paint.
I lost count of how many Bluejacket blocks went into my model of the Hancock, but it was well over a thousand. The first few almost drove me crazy, but the learning curve phenomenon works here as in so many other aspects of the hobby. When I hit my stride I was preparing an average of two blocks every three minutes. Once your head and your fingers get trained, it's really not so hard - especially if you start with the bigger fittings and work your way down to the smaller ones.
End of sermon. Good luck.