1/96 USS Constitution - more questions

There's a bunch of us that are getting ready to build the 1/96 Constitution, so keep an eye out for photos.  I actually have two I'm building, one for each of my boys.  And it is a wonderful kit.

I use acrylics almost exclusively.  The colours just seem more pigment heavy and they thin easily for airbrushes.  Just my personal preference. 

I use Testors glue for plastic models, and varying types of CA depending on what I'm doing.  As an example, I set my eyelets using CA.  Don't use the plastic eyelets in the kit.  They will break virtually every time.  You can get metal ones in the necklace-making section of hobby lobby.  They are easily bent or cut, and can be sized to be as small as you like.  As for sealants, I use a clear satin finish on all my hulls.  It looks "scale".

As for your airbrush, there are many people here that use airbrushes.  I only use mine for jobs that are normally time consuming, like painting all those cannons.  But, I prefer to hand paint my hulls.  First off because I love doing it, and second, because the textures that may be left by the brush just seem to fit the look.

Let us know when you start, and post some pics.  We're always looking for new pics....

Grymm 

See if you can find a copy of Les Wilkins' book How to Build Plastic Ship Models.  This is a terrific book, especially if you're about to tackle the big revell kit. 

The book is OOP, but is worth tryign to hunt down from used book dealers or libraries.

Glue: My personal recommendation would be Testor's Liquid Plastic Cement. It bonds, by "melting" the plastic, and as the liquid evaporates, the plastic solidifies. For a styrene to styrene joint, there's little better. Care, however, in handling the model when using liquid cements; capilary action will cause the cement to creep under your fingers, and leave large fingerprints on the surface! I still prefer to use straight MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) as a plastic cement, it evaporates faster, but contact with the skin can cause nerve damage. It is also NOT a good inhalant, so use overkill ventillation.  Alphcyanoacrylates ( ACC )(CA) have very good tensile strength, but next to no sheer strength. I use CA only to hold things like eyebolts in place. There are some who swear by CA as a good glue for plastic kit assembly, I have never shared that point of view.  Paint:  If it has been years since you used any model paints, you will have to redevelope your painting techniques. This would be a good time to go to Acryllics. It would also be a good time to consider airbrushing. I am not an artist, and I do all my weathering with dry brush techniques, so a single stage airbrush serves me very well. If you want to weather with an airbrush, you would be better off with a two stage brush, which gives you independant control of air, and paint, simultaniously. I moved from enamels to solvent based laquers ( the old Floquil line), and have stayed with the Floquil paints since. I know how to use the product, and can make it do what I want. I have a comfort level with the product. Your Paasche air brush is an excellent brush. Again, where you are starting, it is a good time to combine techniques. Learn to use your brush with Acryllic paints. They are environmentally friendly, and brush cleanup is easier( there are others who can help you with acryllics, a visit to your local hobby shop could also be useful). Finally, good luck with that constitution kit, that's quite a project! Go slow, and patiently, the finished model will be worth the time and effort.

Pete