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It's back..! Wheathering: from washes to pastels - domi's way! -

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Monday, December 29, 2003 5:16 PM
Never tried that, Miller41, but it might be worth a try! I still think that on figures, the best effects are done with oils, but then I've seen brilliant figures painted with acrylics too... Oils seems to be much more 'workable'...

I use the lead of black pencils to replicate 'worn off areas', near rivet heads, on the edges of panels and the like. It's far less visible than alu/silver paint. I also use the same lead to 'draw' panel lines onto aircrafts, particularly on light color schemes (see the pics on page 5 of the Concorde Group Build)...
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 2, 2004 6:40 PM
I have tried the watercolor pencils to highlight and shade some areas on my stug and panther and it seems to work just fine, even if you have acrylic paint down as long as it has cured the watercolor doenst bother it (of course I am not rubbing super hard either) Went ahead and ordered a full set of 72 colered pencils from dick blick, has all the colors I use
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Friday, January 2, 2004 7:20 PM
I'll do the same! Good stuff, Miller41..!
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Montreal
Posted by buff on Monday, January 5, 2004 6:11 PM
Domi, can I ask about the base coat? I tried putting the tutorial into practice, it didn't look right, and I realised that I had skipped the base coat. Thank God for easily washable water colors! What type of paint for the base coat? How do you mix/thin it? Is it the same as the final color, but thinned out? How do you put it on? Thanks for a great tutorial. Next time I'll pay more attention.

On the bench: 1/32 Spit IXc

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Monday, January 5, 2004 6:20 PM
Buff,

my very first coat is a primer coat, usually sprayed from a can (I use acrylic automotive primer). My base colour is normally either a Humbrol or Revell enamel, normally airbrushed, although in some cases, I'll use brushes instead. With this combo, I have no fear of any reactions between the paints.

Next come the watercolors for washes, which will not damage the enamels nor the acrylic primer. The oils I use for drybrushing and some weathering rust in particular) are applied in tiny amounts, without any additional thinner so they do not do much damage at all, if any (when you let the base coat dry really well) to the enamel base.

However, this technique could easily be followed by replacing the enamel base coat by acrylic (Tamiya, Gunze,..). I, personally, prefer enamels.
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Montreal
Posted by buff on Monday, January 5, 2004 6:28 PM
Wow that was fast! Thanks for your help.

On the bench: 1/32 Spit IXc

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 8, 2004 2:01 AM
You're welcome, Buff.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Thursday, January 8, 2004 2:13 AM
Buff, that was me just above, not my wife..! Thought I'd clear it up to avoid confusion! LOL

Domi
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Kent, England
Posted by nmayhew on Saturday, January 10, 2004 10:45 AM
dj hiSmile [:)],
this is such a cool articles that i saved it to my "favourites"!!Cool [8D]Cool [8D]Cool [8D]
however, i've just gone back to it and none of the pictures are viseible anymoreAngry [:(!]Disapprove [V]...is this because of problems with ron george's site that i've been hearing about?
eg i went to your bio page, clicked on your picture got an error message and found myself at ron george's site...
any ideas, 'cos i'd love to keep this article for my reference with the pics!!!Smile [:)]
regards,
nick
Kind regards, Nicholas
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Saturday, January 10, 2004 2:47 PM
Nick, I guess Ron must have moved the pics to another gallery. The upload gallery is only a temporary one..! I'll re-link them tomorrow or Monday when I have more free time.

Thanks for your interest!

Domi
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Kent, England
Posted by nmayhew on Saturday, January 10, 2004 5:20 PM
thanks djSmile [:)],
how's life in chatham by the way? i grew up in kent...school in tonbridge...many happy memories!!Smile [:)]Smile [:)]Smile [:)]
regards,
nick
Kind regards, Nicholas
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Sunday, January 11, 2004 3:58 AM
Nick, You grew up in the 'posher' part of Kent..! Chatham is fine, not the nicest town in the world (although I've seen worse, even in Kent, LOL) but it's practical, being half-way between London and the Channel ports.

The pics seem to have disappeared from Ron's gallery. I e-mailed him to ask about them. Maybe there's too many of them? If he can not host them anymore, I'll upload them onto my site.. Wait and see!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 11, 2004 2:56 PM
Domi, for Winsor&Newton oils, what type of thinner do I need for making the wash? I know Im over looking this, as Im sure you posted it but I have picked up some Winsor Newton Tubes, and dont know what "thinner" to get.

Should I buy a jug of turpentine? Or would generic Mineral Spirits work fine? I tried asking a girl at Hobby Lobby and all I got was a blank stare....Some folks are so helpful! LOL
Thanks!
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Sunday, January 11, 2004 5:00 PM
Chris, if they are truly artist oils, mineral spirit will work fine. Turpentine too, but it's 'greasier' and may take a bit longer to dry (oils will in any case take some time to dry.. a wash will take about a full day, two maybe to dry - I think it depends on humidity -)

I'm saying 'tryly' because those same kind of tubes are also used for artist acrylics and watercolors. So make sure that what you want is what you get.

Also, for a wash with oils, better work with Acrylics as base colours. No risk of reaction then. If you have enamel as base, then let it dry for a good 10 days.
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
Posted by maddafinga on Sunday, January 11, 2004 8:40 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by HistoryinScale

Domi, for Winsor&Newton oils, what type of thinner do I need for making the wash? I know Im over looking this, as Im sure you posted it but I have picked up some Winsor Newton Tubes, and dont know what "thinner" to get.

Should I buy a jug of turpentine? Or would generic Mineral Spirits work fine? I tried asking a girl at Hobby Lobby and all I got was a blank stare....Some folks are so helpful! LOL
Thanks!


Hey Chris, I've been picking up the Windsor & Newton water soluable oils lately after picking one up by accident and they're better than regular oils to my mind. I paint with enamels, so if you're on acrylics, you might want to use the regular oils and mineral spirits. These water soluable are not regular water colors, the carrier is a modified linseed oil, and you can thin them down with water. I've been adding a bit of dish soap and thanks to Domi, a bit of vinegar as well. They don't take too long to dry, are easy to clean up and blend and think down just like regular oils. You might look into a tube or two of these and give them a shot. They're not really expensive, at 4 or 5 bucks a tube, and if you like them, they'd be invauleable. I personally love them and finally feel good about putting washes on.
Madda Trifles make perfection, but perfection is no trifle. -- Leonardo Da Vinci Tact is for those who lack the wit for sarcasm.--maddafinga
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 12, 2004 1:10 AM
Thanks Domi and Madda.....
The ones I picked up are actually "Artist Oils" and not the Acrylics that I saw on the next rack over
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
Posted by maddafinga on Monday, January 12, 2004 8:20 AM
Next time you're there, look at all the W&N paints. They make acrylics, watercolors, artist oils and water soluable artists oils. The tubes mostly look alike though, so you'll have to look carefully to get what you want.
Madda Trifles make perfection, but perfection is no trifle. -- Leonardo Da Vinci Tact is for those who lack the wit for sarcasm.--maddafinga
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Kent, England
Posted by nmayhew on Monday, January 19, 2004 10:37 AM
hi again djmodels1999,Smile [:)]
have you had any luck re-linking those pics? sorry to be a pain, but i'm realy keen to see those pics again.Cool [8D]Cool [8D]Cool [8D]
cheers,
nick
Kind regards, Nicholas
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Newport News VA
Posted by Buddho on Monday, January 19, 2004 8:06 PM
Very detailed and desciptive post...Domi
I am going to have to try this too. I had some of the problems you mentioned like hard demarcation lines with acrylic washes. I did'nt realize vinegar would do the trick...and oils for drybrushing...I will have to work on.

Thanks, Dan

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Philippines
Posted by Dwight Ta-ala on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 1:01 AM
Just seen this thread today. Thank you for the tips, DJ. Learned a lot today.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 1:31 AM
Contacted Ron, but got no reply. Did not want to upload the pics - again - without his Go-ahead...

I'll try again. Sorry for the inconvenience..!

Domi
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Kent, England
Posted by nmayhew on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 3:27 AM
thanks for your help djSmile [:)]
regards,
nick
Kind regards, Nicholas
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Bicester, England
Posted by KJ200 on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 7:11 AM
Wow!!!!!!!Bow [bow]

I'm not worthy!

I'm currently painting the recovery tractor for my braille scale Me163, and have used some of the techniques you mentiond, but I would never have thought of adding vinegar to prevent hard lines forming.

It's no good, I feel a braille scale armour diorama coming on!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks

KarlBig Smile [:D]

Currently on the bench: AZ Models 1/72 Mig 17PF

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 1:49 AM
Karl, small scales do have some power... By the way is that the Academy Komet you're building??? How is it?
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Bicester, England
Posted by KJ200 on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 2:22 AM
DJ, yeah it is the Academy kit.

Excellent kit, with loads of detail, and of course the recovery tractor thrown in. The tractor itself is an excellent little model which just begs to be part of a diorama with the Komet. Just need to build a base and get some figures.

I'm still not convinced on the larger scales, partly on size constraints, but also because I get bored quickly, so have a better chance of finishing braille scale kits.

Once again thanks for the tips.

Karl
Big Smile [:D]

Currently on the bench: AZ Models 1/72 Mig 17PF

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 2, 2004 8:28 AM
thanks for the tips DomiBow [bow]Thumbs Up [tup]
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Kent, England
Posted by nmayhew on Friday, February 20, 2004 12:57 PM
...just to keep this bumped to the top...such a great article and people seem to be asking the same questions over and over..here you go guys...
regards,
nick
Kind regards, Nicholas
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 22, 2004 11:47 AM
Great guide for noobs like me.
  • Member since
    September 2011
Posted by fightnjoe on Sunday, February 22, 2004 1:06 PM
i agree with the earlier comment on how this should be a "sticky" read it when i first joined but took my time today and really found it informative. i am looking for a weathering angle for my a/c. look forward to seeing that one, unless i have missed that one too.

joe

Veterans,

Thank You For Your Sacrifices,

Never To Be Forgotten

Where you can find me:

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  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Montreal
Posted by buff on Sunday, February 22, 2004 5:03 PM
Domi,
What are the handles you used to hold the models while painting made of? And how to you attach them to the kit? Thanks again.

On the bench: 1/32 Spit IXc

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