QUICK TIPS

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 30, 2003 9:55 PM

I got a nice glass cutting board at K-Mart that works great. the edges are smooth. My workbench is in the living room...(no wife to get after me)...and i have shag carpet. I was losing parts like crazy until i spread an old white sheet under the chair and bench.

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Awasoda

Member since
July 2003
From: USA

Posted by Awasoda on Saturday, August 2, 2003 12:30 PM

I found a good tip.
For weathering buildings like making soot I just get a black pastel and draw it on to the area i want sooteified. Then using the fingers God gave me I jsut rub it in. It looks great and this tip can be used for rust and dirt too. Just make sure you seal it with some good old dull coat so it doesnt wear off.

IF you can't beat them then they are not tied down properly

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 3, 2003 11:28 PM

Mixing Paints.

I brought one of those milk shake mixers from a second hand shop for $8.00 (Aus)- $4.00 (US) I think.

All you do is trim the mixing blade down to fit in your paint tin/jar , stick it in the tin and flick the switch. When you have finished mixing, have a jar of old turps on hand and stick the mixing blade in, flick the switch and it cleans itself.

Just watch out if your tin is too full.....you'll only do it once!

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 4, 2003 9:53 PM

I recycle my tipless knife blades into part holders for painting. They fit aircraft wheel hubs, and you can insert them into the backs of other parts that won't show. Always put the part on the bench and gently wiggle it in (holding the part with one hand and the blade with the other invites trouble - DON'T DO IT THAT WAY) Place a piece of tape on the other end of the blade to set the part aside to dry. This way, you can paint both sides of a small part. To airbrush the part, I connect a twist-tie thru the hole in the blade to keep my fingers paint-free. THRER ARE SOME GREAT TIPS HERE ! (especially the one about the angry squirrels !)

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M1abramsRules

Member since
June 2003

Posted by M1abramsRules on Tuesday, August 5, 2003 11:40 PM

always make sure your lid is on the paint container before shaking

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gregers

Member since
February 2003
From: UK

Posted by gregers on Monday, August 25, 2003 9:11 AM

Hi Folks i thought i would give you all a laugh at my expense. i was putting the finishing coat on a model Jaguar xjs that i was doing for the missus and i sprayed the body in British racing green (at her request the interior exterior and everything was done to her specifications) i finished painting when i realised my mistake. now at this moment i had better explain, the thinners i use to paint with and the thinners that i use to clean everything are in identical 1 liter containers (i think your guessing what i did) the thinners that i use for cleaning are the strongest cellulose thinners that you can get (yep your guessing right) and the paint that i was using was quite thick so i had to use extra thinners to get it just right!!!when i realised what i'd done i thought ho s**t then i looked at the model Jag and said HO S**T..... I'm off to buy another model Jaguar tomorrow . call me whatever you want for that one cos i deserve it for being so dumb LoL.the tip is don't do what i did cos its a really dumb thing to do. Blush [:I]

.. later...Greg

Why torture yourself when life will do it for you?

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cnstrwkr

Member since
March 2003
From: USA

Posted by cnstrwkr on Monday, August 25, 2003 2:19 PM

My wife asks her nail technician (manicurists) for some used foam sanding pads. They are washable and great for cleaning up any excess plastic left from the sprue.

Tommy difficult things take time...the impossible, a little longer!

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djrost_2000

Member since
February 2003
From: Where the coyote howl, NH

Posted by djrost_2000 on Tuesday, August 26, 2003 12:08 AM

Knife Safety,

One of the problems with hobby knives like X-Acto, is that they can roll off your' workbench and onto you:( To combat this problem, I cut a stick (about 1 1/2") of balsa from balsa sheet, and taped the stick along the length of my knife handle. Presto, It no longer rolls. You can also use one of those triangular pencil holders, that fit over a pencil to help give you the correct grip. You just cut a cross-section from the pencil holder. But will probably not fit over a larger than average knife handle.

DJ

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gregers

Member since
February 2003
From: UK

Posted by gregers on Tuesday, August 26, 2003 5:15 AM

Hi Djrost I had the same trouble with x-acto's untill i made new handles out of milliput, they stop them rolling and conform perfectly to my hand and are very comfortable to use..Greg Cool [8D]

Why torture yourself when life will do it for you?

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 26, 2003 2:37 PM

Kind of makes me wonder why the X-acto folks can't change the design of their handles a little bit. I usually just wrap a rubber band around them
How many of us haven't at least once experienced the thrill of one of those little missiles with a shiny new #11 warhead attached plummeting business-end first into our lap or socked- foot?

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 26, 2003 4:57 PM

I read everyone's post on using table-top glass and paper etc. I do have a sheet of glass on my bench that I like, but I find it too hard when I'm working on assembling things. I have an old mouse-pad that I just turned upside down and use that for a 'pad' to assemble things. It's got a little cushion to it, so the parts don't slide around.

It's also handy to put your kit instructions under the glass (assuming you've got enough space for that. I get really annoyed with the instructions cuz they're always laying around like a big newspaper. I'm going to put some small 'feet' under each corner of the glass so that it sits very slightly above the surface (ie. 1mm or so). That way, I can slide the instructions under there quite easily without having to lift the glass.

I tried using a clipboard for a while (to hold the instructions) and that worked better than having them lay around all the time.

Murray

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 26, 2003 4:59 PM

I use a piece of styrofoam from some sort of appliance box to hold parts after painting. Most people have some sort of 'stick' mounted to the part for painting, so you just jab the stick in the styrofoam and it stays there to dry.

Murray

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 26, 2003 5:03 PM

This is one of my favorites...

Any electronic-type stuff that stops working usually gets a fairly thorough disassembly! There are usually all kinds of tiny parts in there that can be used on models. Your imagination is the limit. A VCR has got LOTS of cool stuff in it!!

I can't actually say that I've used many of the parts I've salvaged (other than bits of wire and various small little springs), but I'm sure a project they'll come in handy some-day...

Murray

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maddafinga

Member since
March 2003
From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma

Posted by maddafinga on Tuesday, August 26, 2003 5:51 PM

That is a great idea there. I just happen to have an old non functional vcr in my closet at this very second. I'm gonna have to take that thing apart tonight to see what I can use.

Thanks Murray.

madda

Madda Trifles make perfection, but perfection is no trifle. -- Leonardo Da Vinci Tact is for those who lack the wit for sarcasm.--maddafinga

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gregers

Member since
February 2003
From: UK

Posted by gregers on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 1:28 PM

If you decide to take a tv apart watch out for what you touch because they can still give you a nasty shock days after they have been turned off. [:0] Dead [xx(]

Greg

Why torture yourself when life will do it for you?

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shermanfreak

Member since
January 2003

Posted by shermanfreak on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 3:03 PM

Solid core solder makes great conduit, wiring, or lift rings ..... depending on what scale you are working in. Very flexible (beats trying to put a small loop in brass rod), takes paint very well, and glues down easily. I keep 3 rolls in different diameter on my workbench.

Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert

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Hoser

Member since
January 2003
From: Foothills of Colorado

Posted by Hoser on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 5:17 PM

Re: shermanfreak's post - I've also used solder for exhaust pipes, radiator hoses and roll bars. It polishes up pretty well, but if you do that spray a coat of clear afterwards. Very small diameters can be used for brake and fuel lines.
If you happen to get rosin-core solder, seal the ends with super glue.

"Trust no one; even those people you know and trust." - Jack S. Margolis

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 8, 2003 9:22 AM

Go on eBay and get insulin syringes (I got 100 for about $15.00). They make great applicators for the super thin CA, especially when you want a super small drop.

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J-Hulk

Member since
February 2003
From: Tochigi, Japan

Posted by J-Hulk on Monday, September 8, 2003 11:33 AM

Here's one I discovered during my time here in Japan: Waribashi! (disposable wooden chopsticks)
I use them as paint mixers, holders for small parts for painting, narrow sanding blocks (just staple some sand paper to 'em), parts-pushing "manipulators" (the soft wood makes 'em good for seating various pieces), and basically anything were I need a long. thin piece of wood. I find new uses for them every build.

One of my favorite uses is when assembling individual link tracks. I use the chopsticks two at a time to align and "settle" the links by putting the links together, and then setting the chopsticks on top of them, straddling the track horns while I push the links together. I then drop a single c-stick on each side of the length of links to insure that the whole shebang is straight. Works like a charm!

So, while environmentally unfriendly, the disposable wooden chopstick is very modeler friendly!
And if I remember correctly, they are readily available in the US.
How about the rest of the world?

~Brian

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maddafinga

Member since
March 2003
From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma

Posted by maddafinga on Monday, September 8, 2003 1:09 PM

I get a set or two of these a week actually, but I usually just throw them away. A grocery store up the road sells sushi and gives the sticks away free with it. I may have to save a set or two of them now. Not a bad idea on that one. Do you have any alternate uses for wasabi?

madda

Madda Trifles make perfection, but perfection is no trifle. -- Leonardo Da Vinci Tact is for those who lack the wit for sarcasm.--maddafinga

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 8, 2003 10:26 PM

Machine guns of the first and second world war were very dirty machines, often leaving large black streaks on airplane wings for example. (.50 calibre machine guns are still called "mud guns" because the oil and burned cordite leave a huge mess.) POint being, to simulate the residue left on wings etc. I scrape a pastel, gathering a pile of dust that can be dry brushed onto the model very effectively. Remember that since air moves more slowly on the underside of an airfoil (the bottom of the wing) it will have a heavier soil deposit.

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J-Hulk

Member since
February 2003
From: Tochigi, Japan

Posted by J-Hulk on Tuesday, September 9, 2003 6:35 AM

Hey, Madda!

Wasabi makes a great quick seam filler and putty, and shoyu (soy sauce) makes an excellent wash!

Can't say much about their staying power, though... Wink [;)]

~Brian

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Jeeves

Member since
February 2003
From: Saratoga Springs, NY

Posted by Jeeves on Tuesday, September 9, 2003 7:48 AM

Not sure how common this is-- but I love the look on it. I have been successful at adding some realism to my Beaufighter, Spitfire, and Hurricane by taking very small bits of masking tape, painting them flat red, and putting them over the gun and cannon ports on these planes. To make them look like they have been in battle, take a pin and poke a hole through them from the inside. A drop of glue to attach and it looks great!

If you can find yourself one of the very small Swiss Army knifes that they usually sell near the cash registers, you get a small set of scissors for trimming decals, a small tweezers, a toothpick for moving decals around, a knife, and a file.

Mike

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 9, 2003 12:05 PM

got one. You know the constant aol offers, the cd inside a metal box. Well if you neet a place to store small parts, spares and other things they are perfect for it

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, September 13, 2003 3:46 AM

gluing technique. i dont know if this is new... old or odd.

happened to come by it purely on accident... seems thats the theme here :D

in recent i am in the middle of about three projects. one is a model, one is restoral of a model and the other is putting an internal front light in a gameboy advanced. i was reinstalling a side view mirror on to an auto model i was retoring when i noticed this 30ga wire on my desk from the gameboy project. it was perfect for the application of the glue. becuase it was such a thin wire, it picked up very small amounts of glue at a time. i am using tamiya standard cement by the way. i'd dip the tip of the wire in to the glue then lightly use this single strand as a brush to dab very tiny amounts of glue to these tiny items. it turned out exactally the right amount of glue every time. no gush out the sides of the part, and the part was stongly glued too. since the wire has a vinyl sheath, the glue peels off after it dries so the wire is reusable many times.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, September 13, 2003 5:20 AM

Never throw away anything that could possibly have any use for modelling

My favourite is the plastic canister 35mm film comes in, great for storing small parts, mixing paints, etc.

And never stand in the arc of the propeller, even if its not moving.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, September 13, 2003 2:30 PM

I find myself laughing while reading some of these posts. I didnt realize there were so many other modelers out there making some of the same goofy mistakes Ive made, i.e the Mk 11 X Acto rapid rolling missile and the paint thinner jar mixup. what can I say, I got the tshirt! anyway, heres my tip for the day:
For modelers who use acrylics looking for a good brush on mask I use Mold Builders Liquid Latex rubber. (found in art supply or craft stores) You get a 16 oz jar for around $10 and lasts forever. I use it to mask areas on figures, mainly their flesh and I also use it for masking canopys. Just make sure you seal "everything" before applying this stuff as it will peel any paint away thats not sealed first. I usuall give my figures 2 or 3 coats of sealant just to make sure I got all those nooks and crannies.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, September 14, 2003 1:04 PM

I like to use discarded parts sprues for making spark plug wires, radio antenna, hood props or any other various thin sort of cords, wires, or bars. They make good material for roll cages

By heating the sprue with a little votive candle it can be stretched to a thinner diameter. Then simply cut to your desired length, paint, and glue in place.

A painting tip I like to use for airbrushing my acrylic paints on vehicle bodies: Add a little bit of ProModeler arcrylic based aluminum to your base color. It adds a hint of metallic sheen to the paint that only shows when viewed from particular angles and lighting conditions.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 15, 2003 9:41 AM

Here is one I picked up from Testors a number of years ago.

Use a piece of fine grit sand paper to remove the gloss from tire tread for autos. It gives the appearance of tire wear. Rub the sand paper lightly just enough to remove the gloss and not the tread. This tip works great for rear dragster tires both on the tread and side walls to give that "I just had 1500 horse power tear through me" look.

On the subject of dragster tires. If you heat them to almost melting point, you can twist them to make them look used and abused. When you have the desired twist, plunge it into cold water to set the twist and shape of the tire. Make sure you twist the tire the right way or it will look like the car is going backwards. I use a dowel rod through the center of the tire to hold the middle still while twisting the outside of the tire. Does this make sense or need I explain more.?

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, November 27, 2003 8:36 PM

I learned this one the hard way when i was just a young lad trying to cut the cannopy (which I had secured with no less than a pint of good ol' toothpaste tube model cement) off of an f-18 model I was building. Anyway, this is prolly a tip for new modelers. Change your number eleven blades often, never never never work with a dull knife. As I was trying to cut this cannopy off of the model with this old knife that might have cut butter if it was hot enough.. it slipped and went about a half inch into my finger. No stitches, but in the end a very bloody f-18 model.

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