Squadron White/Green Putty?

Much Thanks to both Merlin V1650 and Bones-Coa for your help on my problem! I'll try it on my very next project! Once again thank you and thank you FSM for giving us this forum to use.

Hey J-Hulk, I used to be a show vendor and bought a case for resale. After using it I fell in love with stuff! Spreads like Jiff and can be sanded until its see through without sloughing off. I mainly asked who is using it so I can find some more, getting kind of low. I do recommend it though.

Might have to give it a shot, Woody!

RC, I usually use super glue on seams if they remain after assembly, but what I usually do is when gluing pieces together, I use the ol' squeeze trick where you just squeeze the parts together to get that little ooze of plastic (that is, if you're using solvent glue for assembly), and after it's completely dry, a quick swipe of the trusty X-Acto and a wipe with some light sandpaper is all ya need to take care of the seam.
As far as replacing detail, if I do destroy any panel lines or rivets, I just re-scribe or add the rivets that were lost.

I'm putting that old F-4, 1/32 scale from Revel. The one with removable engine, canopies raise and lower. I just read your statement on using acetone wipes to remove the White putty; what is that Swanny...acetone?

Here's that thread, Swandive!

I beleive Mark Gustavson, an often contributer to Scale Auto Enthusiast, mentioned in an article a couple of years ago an automotive product called Evercoat Euro-soft Polyester Glazing Putty. It's used on full scale auto, comes on two parts, the putty in an 32 ounce can and a small tube of catalizer. This stuff dries fairly fast, depending on how much catalizer you add, doesn't take much! It doesn't shrink, made for real life cars. Works on plastic styrene ok. I finally got fed up with green putty and it's shrinking problem and went to a auto-body supply store and found this glazing putty a couple of years ago and have used it ever since. I only use a fraction of an ounce at any one time. I take a toothpick and drop a little blob on a clean piece of paper and then take just a little bit of the blue catalizer out of the tube and mix it altogether and then put it where it needs to go. Don't dally as this stuff starts drying while you're deciding where to put it. It can be sanded in a few hours, even less depending on how much catalizer you add. I'd say the ratio of catalizer to putty is maybe 1 to 12. Doesn't take much catalizer to set up. One good thing about using so little putty at any given time is that this 32oz jar will just about last a lifetime. Main thing is to keep the lid on tight so it doesn't dry out!

Hope this helps and not confuses!

Glenn

Box-Stock is on the right track.

A two part polyester filler is much faster and does not shrink like lacquer based putties. The Evercoat brand is good, as are others like Wurth, Marson, etc. I personally use a product called "Icing" that is a two part poly filler made to fill small pinholes or dings in 1:1 cars. They also make a product called "Thin ice" that is flowable and can be used to make castings.

They all stick to plastic well, set up in minutes allowing you to sand in a very short time, feather well and DO NOT SHRINK!!!! Nothing worse than having sanding scratches start to appear months after you have finished your project!

Rick

I would have to agree with most said here......I mainly use Sqaudron......both green and white....however I have purchased some Tamiya Putty and will be using it once the Sqaudron is all gone.....As far as Testors putty.....well we wont go there! What a waste of perfectly good packaging.....Im glad it works for you Tenchi.....I too live in Florida and have had no luck what so ever with it.....

Were can you buy Dr. Micro Tool putty. I would like to try it.
mark956

This is the address for Dr.Microtools. I think the company may have closed up shop. Dr. Microtools, PO Box 21585, Columbus, OH 43221 USA