Compressor Suggestions?

whats your price range? look into a compressor with a tank. a good quiet setup is the Iwata smart jet. 

Harbor Freight 1/8hp, tankless, reg, moisture trap and quiet as can be, for not a whole lot.

As you have probably noticed a decent compressor will cost as much, if not more than a decent airbrush.......

I am brand new into the airbrush/compressor scene, so I was hoping for some tips on what to look for (PSI, moisture catch, regulator, tank size, etc).

A reputable piston compressor with an output of roughly 50PSI minimum is a good start & a combined filter / regulator is pretty much a must.  A receiver compressor is also well worth the investment, with somewhere about 2L probably being fine for single user scale modelling use. If you can splash out on a twin piston unit, comparative to a similar single piston, as well as being more powerful these will usually give a longer service life as the components are not worked as hard.

I was hoping some of the forum veterans could share experience on what to look for in a quality compressor.

I'm not exactly a veteran, but - Reputable brand (Sparmax, Iwata (which is more or less Sparmax), Badger, Paasche, Silentaire & Sil-Air are some) with receiver.

I also ran into some notes on going the CO2 path. Any ideas on that would also be great.

Lots of pro's & con's;

+ Silent, no electricity source required, constant pressure output.

- Without weighing your bottle, it hard to tell how much CO2 is left, the bottle is heavy & potentially     dangerous, unless you have a second bottle it's possible that you will occasionally run out

Also, has anyone used the Badger compressors?

Not me, but plenty here have.

[/quote]

Thanks for the quick replies guys. I will  give these suggestions a look-over. I am looking for something that will introduce me to using a compressor without spending an arm and a leg for it. But I also live in an apartment, so noise is a deal breaker for me.

I am not going to be using it in long bursts, just for laying down a even layer for body work, etc. I'm getting tired of spray cans!... haha I'm sure you all have been down that route in your greenhorn days.

I'll look into the tips here. There's still some terminology I don't understand, but I will research and post back with an questions. Thanks again guys.

This one here Reasoned?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-5-hp-58-psi-compressor-and-airbrush-kit-95630.html

I'm guessing you own one for your building? What do you like/not like about it?

icer22x

This one here Reasoned?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-5-hp-58-psi-compressor-and-airbrush-kit-95630.html

I'm guessing you own one for your building? What do you like/not like about it?

Harbor Freight tools are NOT known for reliability, but can be good value for the money. This is typical of the made-in-China compressors. Modern compressor relies on a very thin telfon type coating on the cylinder and piston wall to keep it cool and quiet. The coatings wears out. A precision made compressor runs quieter, cooler and lasts a lot longer.

There are reports of happy HF compressor users on this forum. You can do a search for them.

I would have perfer the Sparmax or Iwata compressor due to their established track record for the low end offerings in the $200-300 range. Even that is much more than the HF.

icer22x

This one here Reasoned?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-5-hp-58-psi-compressor-and-airbrush-kit-95630.html

 

I'm guessing you own one for your building? What do you like/not like about it?

I couldn't get the link to open but I was wrong, it's the 1/8hp (without AB).  Are there better compressors out there? Sure   But for as little as I have it on at any one time, it suits me fine.  I really can't say anything bad about it, I was concerned about having consistant air pressure, due to no tank, but can not tell any difference.

Quiet operation. Delivers 0 to 40 PSI constant pressure for a quality finish. Works with all airbrushes.

• Auto shut off at 40 PSI, auto-on at 3 PSI
• Adjustable pressure regulator with moisture trap
• Direct hook-up with all airbrushes using universal 1/8"-28 NPS
• Fitting with 1/4" NPT male adapter
• Thermal overload protection with automatic reset
• Rubber suction cup feet for stability
• Built-in carrying handle for maximum portability

Thanks for all the information, I really appreciate it.

I think I'm hooked to this Iwata Smart Jet. All the reviews on it have me drawn. The downside is the price. :( But I think it would be worth the change.

Does anyone have any usage experience with this particular model? Do you have any cons with this machine?

The Smart Jet is a fine compressor, but you may get a higher spec Sparmax for much the same price. As far as I am aware the Smart Jet is made for Iwata by Sparmax......................

icer22x

I think I'm hooked to this Iwata Smart Jet. All the reviews on it have me drawn. The downside is the price. :( But I think it would be worth the change.

Does anyone have any usage experience with this particular model? Do you have any cons with this machine?

Milairjunkie

The Smart Jet is a fine compressor, but you may get a higher spec Sparmax for much the same price. As far as I am aware the Smart Jet is made for Iwata by Sparmax......................

I second this suggestion. If you are in the US, the Sparmax TC-2000 can be had for about $200 by mail order or at Hobby Lobby.

If you are in UK or Europe, the Revell Master Class Compressor is a wonderful value at £166.66 before VAT.

Thanks! As I looked more into the Smart Jet, I don't like how the initial burst of air is around 60 PSI and then it drops to a constant 35. The reviewer I was watching said that this really isn't a big deal since you're going to test spray the first shot, but I can see it getting annoying. Also, the regulator is just a knob at the bottom of the moisture trap that constantly lets air out (keeping the motor running constantly). To solve this, couldn't you just leave the regulator closed and buy a regulation adapter that screws onto the airbrush-side of the hose? I saw someone with one of those. I don't know how accurate they are...

These were just two little oddities I noticed with the Smart Jet.

I will definitely research the SparMax. Thanks for the help guys.

EDIT: Briefly looked at Sparmax's website. Do they have a U.S. - based office? Or is everything in Taiwan?

Also, is this the same compressor as the TC-2000?

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/item.aspx?ItemId=174529

Many of the ones suggested are not particularly quiet- in fact some are pretty noisy.  One problem is that in ads some of them are labeled quiet or silent with no actual sound pressure level (db) specified. If it is sold as a quiet or silent compressor that spec should be there.  I also am looking for a silent solution and definitely looking into CO2.

icer22x

Also, is this the same compressor as the TC-2000?

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/item.aspx?ItemId=174529

Yes I believe it is, the TC-2000 seems to be branded as the Stormforce over your side, have a look here;

http://www.merriartist.com/Sparmax_TC_2000_Stormforce_Airbrush_Compressor_p/tc2000.htm

Don Stauffer

Many of the ones suggested are not particularly quiet- in fact some are pretty noisy. One problem is that in ads some of them are labeled quiet or silent with no actual sound pressure level (db) specified. If it is sold as a quiet or silent compressor that spec should be there. I also am looking for a silent solution and definitely looking into CO2.

 

The only quiet compressors on the market, which you might call "silenced" as opposed to "silent" are those from the likes of Sil-Air & Silentair that use refrigeration motors. Most of these, before you get to the very powerfully ones are rated at about 30dbA, which although not silent is definitely quiet, but they are expensive.

I think most of the hobby compressors that are described as quiet / silent / whisper........ operate in the 45>60dbA bracket & I would agree that the lower end of this bracket is reasonably quiet. I think the overstated descriptions come from comparisons to your typical DIY / small workshop compressor, many of which are certainly noisy.

CO2 is a valid choice & will certainly have a smaller initial outlay than a "Silenced" compressor, but with cared for Sil-Air's lasting to & beyond the 15 year mark they are probably more cost effective in the long run. CO2 does, like anything have it's pro's & con's; /forums/t/139497.aspx

Has anyone here used/experienced the TC-2000/Stormforce compressor? I'm wondering what the decibel output is and whether the parts are of quality construction.

This little machine looks to have drawn me away from the Smart Jet. I like the dual pistons. Just wondering if it is as quiet or close to the Smart Jet.

icer22x

Has anyone here used/experienced the TC-2000/Stormforce compressor? I'm wondering what the decibel output is and whether the parts are of quality construction.

This little machine looks to have drawn me away from the Smart Jet. I like the dual pistons. Just wondering if it is as quiet or close to the Smart Jet.

Yes, Sparmax has a good track record of quality construction. The TC-2000 is supposed to be the same compressor as the Iwata Power Jet LIte w/o the case. I have an older model Paasche DA400 which was made by Sparmax and use the same motor. They all have a noise spec of 56-58 dB.

Sparmax stopped publishing the more detailed spec when they pulled back from retailing business a few years back.

I noticed that the Stormforce compressor is out of stock at Hobby Lobby now. It is no assurance that they will sell the twin piston compressor made by Sparmax. Many compressor sellers switched to manufacturer in China to maximize profit. BearAir, Paasche and Badger are among those who did.

I have to agree with Reasoned. I bought a 3 gallon 100 psi compressor at Harbor Freight and I just love it for my airbrush (Iwata HP). I had a coupon so I only paid $39.99 plus another $20 for a decent filter/moisture trap. It's not as quiet as some compressors, but it works for me. People upstairs can't hear it running until they get to the top of the basement stairs. To put it another way, I can run it at three o'clock in the morning without waking anyone up (my workstation is in the basement). The final decision is obviously yours, but for the price I think I'll always use Harbor Freight compressors. Even if I have to replace it every couple years I think I'll be better off than if I had spent hundreds on one of the fancy expensive compressors.

keilau

I noticed that the Stormforce compressor is out of stock at Hobby Lobby now.

Ah crap, they are. Just when I was about to print my 40% off coupon and go buy one. Haha No worries though, with 40%, it still comes to around the same price that other online retailers are selling them for.

icer22x

keilau:

I noticed that the Stormforce compressor is out of stock at Hobby Lobby now.

 

Ah crap, they are. Just when I was about to print my 40% off coupon and go buy one. Haha No worries though, with 40%, it still comes to around the same price that other online retailers are selling them for.

Call your local Hobby Lobby manager before you go. The local store may still have one even if the national stock is out.

Good luck and let us know how you like it.

keilau

 

 

 

Call your local Hobby Lobby manager before you go. The local store may still have one even if the national stock is out.

Good luck and let us know how you like it.

I definitely will. I can't wait to get my airbrush... there's so much I've been wanting to do with models that I haven't been able to. You guys have been very helpful.

Also, quick question - how is this magazine? I'm thinking about getting 10 months, but I was mainly wondering how much of it is tips/technique as opposed to other stuff.

icer22x

I definitely will. I can't wait to get my airbrush... there's so much I've been wanting to do with models that I haven't been able to. You guys have been very helpful.

Also, quick question - how is this magazine? I'm thinking about getting 10 months, but I was mainly wondering how much of it is tips/technique as opposed to other stuff.

I have been a FSM subscriber for many years and feel it is a well balanced magazine. You get a very good per copy price by subscription. And access to full feature of this web site, mostly extra pictures. But FSM has moved many of the good downloads from free to paid section in recent years.  In terms of tips and techniques, it does not have as much details as some of the British magazines, but still good. 

I also have a subsription to the AIRFIX magazine from England. But it costs 3 times more than the FSM. Find a good local hobby store and sample several modeling magazines before deciding what to subsribe. FSM is probably the cheapest you can get in annual subscription.

Icer, welcome to the forum!

Not sure if it's too late to chime in or not and this might not be what you're considering...but I just recently replaced my old compressor with a Craftsman Evolv from Sears.  It has a 3 gallon tank and, compared to my old 6 gallon compressor, is as light as a feather.  Even my wife carries it around when she needs it.  It's also substantially quieter, too.  I believe it normally goes for $99 but you can get it for even less when Sears has their usual sales.  It's also perfect for inflating bike tires, kids' toys, etc.  Not sure if you have a need to do that though.  But as an air compressor for my air brush, it works perfectly.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915206000P

Having been an apartment dweller myself in the past, I can understand your need for quietness and possibly even space consideration.  I lived in a one bedroom apartment before I got married.  My "workshop" was the basement late at night also.  Am I assuming that, when you paint, you run down to the basement, model, paint and compresser in hand?

Eric

echolmberg

Icer, welcome to the forum!

Not sure if it's too late to chime in or not and this might not be what you're considering...but I just recently replaced my old compressor with a Craftsman Evolv from Sears.  It has a 3 gallon tank and, compared to my old 6 gallon compressor, is as light as a feather.  Even my wife carries it around when she needs it.  It's also substantially quieter, too.  I believe it normally goes for $99 but you can get it for even less when Sears has their usual sales.  It's also perfect for inflating bike tires, kids' toys, etc.  Not sure if you have a need to do that though.  But as an air compressor for my air brush, it works perfectly.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915206000P

Having been an apartment dweller myself in the past, I can understand your need for quietness and possibly even space consideration.  I lived in a one bedroom apartment before I got married.  My "workshop" was the basement late at night also.  Am I assuming that, when you paint, you run down to the basement, model, paint and compresser in hand?

Eric

 

Thanks for the suggestion Eric. My situation is similar to yours! One-bedroom apartment and close to getting engaged. I do not have a basement though... never heard of apartments with basements, haha. This is also my first time looking for an airbrush/compressor. I already have my brush picked out - Badger Patriot. Just looking for a good compressor to go with it.

I was looking at that Craftsman. I am a HUGE fan of Craftsman - I buy all their tools when working on my car. I just have a few questions about that one. It looks like it has a regulator on it, right? Can you get low pressure from it? I'm sure I don't want to be spraying at it's max - 100 PSI. lol Also, what about sputtering? Every single review I've read/watched since I've been looking has said compressors with tanks can cause sputtering - something I definitely want to avoid.

icer22x

 what about sputtering? Every single review I've read/watched since I've been looking has said compressors with tanks can cause sputtering - something I definitely want to avoid.

I'm figuring that you are talking about the compressor intermittently passing water (eh)?

Receiver / tanked compressors usually outperform those without a tank in regards to water output - they produce just as much moisture as those without, but this is generally condensed back into water (which sits at the bottom of the tanlk) when the compressed air cools as it enters the tank. This is almost 100% true when the compressor is recharging & no air is being drawn from it & even when you are drawing air when it's running, the tank acts as a buffer & will still condense some of that moisture. This is part of normal operation for a  receiver compressor & the all have tank drain fitted at the bottom of their tanks.

In comparison a unit without a receiver has (excluding the hose & regulator) nowhere for the moisture to condense..................

I've found that all compressors produce excess water, which is why I have a moisture trap on my regulator, and an inline one on my hose. Tanks store water quite well, which is why you need to drain them occasionally. However, my experience is that not all the water produced in a tank gets to the hose. Something that is guaranteed with a non-tanked compressor. The benefits of a tank (less wear and tear, less pulsing due to diaphragm or piston action) outweigh the potential dangers of sputtering. In either case as good moisture trap will prevent the water from getting to the paint job.

I am lucky I live in an area with relatively low humidity, typically in the 35-50% range. I'm on vacation in NYC and Holy Cow, you can drink the air!

Hey Icer,  I've been following your post and these guys are giving you great advice. A compressor with a tank is definitely the way to go. Like you, I'm a big fan of Craftsman. I just bought their Powermate brand 26 gallon compressor for my garage, but down in the basement is the 3 gallon job I bought from Harbor Freight and I just love it. I saw one guy had a 3 gallon craftsman and if you're more comfortable with the name brand then I say go for it. At less than $100 it's a good investment (I paid $40 for my H.F. job, but I know it's not the same quality as craftsman).  And a good water trap is essential. I got mine at H.F. for about $20 and it does the job quite nicely. It automatically drains itself every time I drain the compressor and I haven't had ANY water or sputtering issues with my Iwata HP airbrush. One thing I saw in the post needs a little expansion, though. Don't drain your compressor "occasionally". Drain it EVERY TIME you use it. Water sitting in the tank can cause rust and that's BAD. Your compressor will last much longer if you drain it every time. And when I bought mine I went to the store and asked to hear it run. Most stores will do that for you and then you can hear for yourself how much noise it makes before you make your decision.

echolmberg

Icer, welcome to the forum!

Not sure if it's too late to chime in or not and this might not be what you're considering...but I just recently replaced my old compressor with a Craftsman Evolv from Sears.  It has a 3 gallon tank and, compared to my old 6 gallon compressor, is as light as a feather.  Even my wife carries it around when she needs it.  It's also substantially quieter, too.  I believe it normally goes for $99 but you can get it for even less when Sears has their usual sales.  It's also perfect for inflating bike tires, kids' toys, etc.  Not sure if you have a need to do that though.  But as an air compressor for my air brush, it works perfectly.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915206000P

 

Wow, thanks guys! And thanks for the welcome Eric. So it seems a compressor with a tank is the way to go. I know tank-less compressors are still a good investment, but I do want a compressor that runs the least amount of time possible just so I can preserve the inner-workings. Honestly, I was avoiding a tank because of the reviews talking about sputtering. But I can see all I need is a good moisture trap and I'm set (well, almost).

Eric, if you have a moisture trap on your compressor, where did you get it? I am thinking about stopping by Sears and seeing if they have one of these compressors. I'm going to look at Harbor and see if they make a moisture trap for this. Also, you mentioned it was substantially quieter than your other compressor - do you know about how many decibels it puts out? And how does the regulator work? Pretty accurate? Everything I've researched so far says that 35-40 PSI is the max I'll need for modeling.

EDIT: I was looking up moisture traps and came across this:

http://www.dickblick.com/products/moisture-trap/

Would this work for any tank compressor? Also, how long do they last? Do you just empty them before every use?

I agree in that everyone here is making some excellent suggestions!  Just to expand on my past, I also had one of those smaller tankless airbrush compressors.  I wish I could remember the name brand seeing as how it came with my wife when we got married.  LOL!  It was blue but that's all I can tell you.  It was adequate but it had no regulator other than a little needle valve which you had to open or close in order adjust the pressure.

The apartment building in which I lived had underground parking which came in handy during the harsh winters up here in Wisconsin.  It was also where the set of washers and dryers were.  Late at night when I was ready to paint a plane, I'd haul my stuff down to the laundry room, paint as quickly as I could so as to avoid anyone suddenly coming down to do some laundry, then haul it all back upstairs again.

On my Evolv air compressor, I do not have a moisture trap.  Yes I know they are good investments but with this compressor and in my Craftsman 6 gallon compressor before that, not once did I ever have an issue with moisture spitting out and ruining my paint job.  Maybe I'm just riding on luck so far but I have not had any problems with it.  I did, however, have that problem with my little blue tankless air compressor which was my wife's.

I read hear how one can get a Harbor Freight compressor for a fraction of what I paid for my Craftsman.  It is my understanding that the Evolv is technically manufactured overseas somewhere but I can't help but go back to the Craftsman name.  All my tools are Craftsman and they've never let me down once.

I also looked up the stats on the Evolv and I could not find a decible rating for it.  I'll try to do some more digging to get that info for you though.  As one other person mentioned, see if the store will let you fire up the compressor to see what they sound like.  I think that's excellent advice.  I wasn't able to do that for mine because I got it unexpectedly as a Father's Day gift.  Again, I was lucky that it has proven to be far quieter than my old 6 gallon one.

The regulator seems to work alright but not quite as sensitive as the one on my 6 gallon job.  I typically paint at the 18-25 psi range and it seems like the regulator on the Evolv starts to be accurate once it gets to 20 psi but not below that.  (I don't know if this makes any difference or not but I use an Iwata about 5% of the time and an Aztek the other 95%).

I hope this all has helped!  Once you get married and your own house, your modeling area/conditions will improve exponentially!!!!!  Congrats on the soon-to-be engagement, also! 

Eric

icer22x

 Honestly, I was avoiding a tank because of the reviews talking about sputtering. But I can see all I need is a good moisture trap and I'm set (well, almost).

As said, a compressor with a receiver will "Sputter" less than the equivalent compressor without a receiver. Most, if not all airbrush compressors are sold fitted with moisture traps - why not see how it works before shelling out on an additional trap?

icer22x

Also, you mentioned it was substantially quieter than your other compressor - do you know about how many decibels it puts out?

 

About 55>58 dbA

Milairjunkie

icer22x:

Also, you mentioned it was substantially quieter than your other compressor - do you know about how many decibels it puts out?

 

About 55>58 dbA

If the 55-58 decibels is true, then that's pretty good considering one web site I found stated that normal conversation is between 60-70 dB.  I did find a forum where one person said their Evolv was 84 dB and he was complaining about the noise.  I don't know how that person measured it or how he got that number but if he's getting 84 dB, then city traffic (inside car) is rated at 85 dB.  All I can tell you is that my 4 and 7 year old daughters used to run upstairs holding their ears when I fired up my old 6 gallon Craftsman.  Now, with my Evolv, the kid are no longer afraid of it and they don't even plug their ears.  LOL!  Far from scientific but I thought that was pretty good considering my girls scream when I chase them with the vacuum cleaner.

Eric

Haha I have to ask - did you ever have anyone walk in to do laundry and have that awkward stare off before you offered up your explanation? That image ran through my head. Too funny.

Well, I think I am going to stop by Sears after work and check this thing out! Wish I had my Badger 105 already... I'm going to be sitting in my room playing with m compressor. haha

I will post back with any questions. Thanks for you're help guys. I look forward to using this community as I drastically improve my modeling skills.

echolmberg

 

 

 

If the 55-58 decibels is true, then that's pretty good considering one web site I found stated that normal conversation is between 60-70 dB.  I did find a forum where one person said their Evolv was 84 dB and he was complaining about the noise.  I don't know how that person measured it or how he got that number but if he's getting 84 dB, then city traffic (inside car) is rated at 85 dB.  All I can tell you is that my 4 and 7 year old daughters used to run upstairs holding their ears when I fired up my old 6 gallon Craftsman.  Now, with my Evolv, the kid are no longer afraid of it and they don't even plug their ears.  LOL!  Far from scientific but I thought that was pretty good considering my girls scream when I chase them with the vacuum cleaner.

Eric

Haha! Well thanks man. With the size of the parts we paint plus the capacity of 3 gallons of compressed air, I don't see the thing running all too often.

icer22x

Haha I have to ask - did you ever have anyone walk in to do laundry and have that awkward stare off before you offered up your explanation? That image ran through my head. Too funny.

I lived in that apartment for a year and a half and I can honestly say that not once was I ever walked in on as I was painting!  Talk about dodging a bullet!  I just would have felt dumb if some cute female would have walked in while I was trying to paint a little plastic airplane.  It probably wouldn't have been high up there on the "cool" meter.  Not exactly "James Bond-ish" if you catch my drift.  More like "Hi.  I'm Eric and I never evolved emotionally beyond the age of 12."

Eric

PS.  I saw one web site that showed the Craftsman 1.5 gallon compressor at 55 dB.  However, I, myself, have never owned one that small so I don't know how well it would work out.  Remember, once those tanks get below a certain pressure, the compressor will automatically start up again unless you remembered to turn it off.  I typically forget.  So if you have one of those smaller capacity tanks, the motor will come on more often.  They may be smaller, more portable, lighter weight, quieter, etc but they will run more often.  Just another thing to ponder. 

Good luck and keep us informed as to how things are going!

Eric

Hey Icer,

You asked about regulators and said you were going to Harbor Freight so I thought I'd write again. Here's a photo of my regulator and water trap. As you can see, I have it hooked up so it just plugs in, that way I can use it in the basement or the garage and I don't have to have two traps. You can find this item in the Harbor Freight online catalogue, too. Just go to www.harborfreight.com and enter the number 68232 in the search box. It's the Central Pnuematic regulator/moisture trap and it's $19.99 (less if you use one of the 20% off coupons from their flyer). It automatically drains itself when you drain your compressor (it opens when the PSI gets down to about 5 lbs). I typically spray at no less than 15 psi so it works great. I set the regulator on the compressor itself at about 60 psi and then fine tune with the regulator on the water trap to get between 15 and 25 psi, depending on what I'm doing. And if you're going to H.F. you might want to know that they're having a great sale right now and I just got some 4" bar clamps for $1 each. Hobby Lobby has the exact same clamp for EIGHT BUCKS!! Also, they have these really cool mini clamps that come in a pack of six for $2.79. Yes, I bought several packs. :-) They also have all the fittings you'll need for your hose to compressor connections at pretty good prices.

Hey Icer.

Me again. Here's a photo showing both kinds of those clamps I told you about in action. The mini clamps are holding the tail and there's also a red one laying on the bench. The 4" bar clamps are just $1 each right now (no coupon necessary) and these are the ones from H.F. except for the one just forward of the cockpit. That one's a craftsman but they're MUCH more expensive. The mini clamps are $2.79 for a pack of six. Now that I have them I don't know how I ever lived without them. :-)

A good noise test of the compressor is whether your wife can talk to you without raising her voice or you turning off the compressor. The better airbrush compressor passes this test.

Test running the compressor in store is not accurate. The store has high ceiling and open space. The compressor always sounds less noisy. Sears has good return policy and you should be able to return if it sounds too noisy for you.

I added an airtank to my dual piston compressor myself. The compressor does not run less time with a tank. It just wait longer before running the motor again, but it also runs longer too. The key is to get a compressor with enough power, quiet and having auto-on-off feature.

Thanks Gary! Heading over the H.F. right now! I actually just picked up the Craftsman Evolv. I couldn't resist the online discount so I ended up spending $86. Considering I was reading to spend around $200, I think I did alright. I've been playing around with it here. It's loud, but not ear-bleeding. I can stuff it into a plastic storage crate with some blankets around it (not covering the air vents of course!) and it reduces the noise enough for me to feel comfortable running it in my apartment. Plus, I'm on the ground floor (concrete slab foundation) so no need to worry about vibrations. Overall, I am happy with my purchase. With the default regulator I am able to get it down to airbrush-worthy PSI no problem. But I am probably going to invest in that reg./trap that you showed me. I CAN'T WAIT TO GET MY BADGER 105.

P.S. - Nice work on your plane! I can't even see the plastic seam lines from the two halves - that is one thing I hope to prefect here in my next two projects (up next for me is a B-25J Mitchell). What plane are you building there?

Also Gary, thought you might like to see this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/22-piece-spring-clamp-set-8826.html

Hey Icer,

Great find on the spring clamp set. I hadn't seen that one, but I'll look for it the next time I go to H.F.  It looks like they're assorted sizes, too, which is even better. I think you'll like the evolv brand. I have their shop vac and it's pretty cool. Much cheaper than most name brands, too. You did pretty good on the compressor for that price. Just be careful putting blankets around it. You need ventilation around the compressor to prevent heat build up. My big one says it should be at least 12 inches from the wall or anything else, but I imagine for the short periods of time we actually use our airbrushes you should be OK. The plane in the photos is the Airfix 1/24 scale FW 190, which I'm doing as Emil Lang's "Black 7" from 1943. The seam lines are still there, they just don't show up in the photos.

This is what I love about this forum - guys sharing information not only on models, but stuff like good finds on tools and things. Glad you joined and I look forward to sharing more great finds in the future. Let us know how you like your Badger when  you get it.

Reasoned

Harbor Freight 1/8hp, tankless, reg, moisture trap and quiet as can be, for not a whole lot.

my water trap is starting to crap out. have you had this problem?

icer22x

Thanks Gary! Heading over the H.F. right now! I actually just picked up the Craftsman Evolv. I couldn't resist the online discount so I ended up spending $86. Considering I was reading to spend around $200, I think I did alright. I've been playing around with it here. It's loud, but not ear-bleeding. I can stuff it into a plastic storage crate with some blankets around it (not covering the air vents of course!) and it reduces the noise enough for me to feel comfortable running it in my apartment. Plus, I'm on the ground floor (concrete slab foundation) so no need to worry about vibrations. Overall, I am happy with my purchase. With the default regulator I am able to get it down to airbrush-worthy PSI no problem. But I am probably going to invest in that reg./trap that you showed me. I CAN'T WAIT TO GET MY BADGER 105.

The noise would have driven me crazy. My compressor shopping experience a few years back. It is personal. But the saving of one or two model kits is not worth the price of living with the noise while modeling.

The Harbor Freight filter/regulator uses 3/8" connectors and you need to get adaptors to reduce it to 1/4" NPT.

Heat is the worst enemy of a compressor. It will increase the moisture content in the output air and eventually shorten the life span of the compressor. It is important to keep the compressor in a well ventilated environment.

Hey Icer,

Got another find for you. When I first bought my airbrush I naturally started looking at airbrush holders. Man, those things are expensive!! Here's a photo of my solution. I got this at the dollar store for ... one dollar! It's designed to stick to the wall of your shower and hold a razor. The suction cup didn't fit the edge of my bench so I just put a couple of screws through it and voila! One very convenient place to hang the airbrush during painting sessions. Yeah, I'm a cheapskate but I've got a perfectly good airbrush holder for a buck. :-)

Gary

The filter regulator I posted the photo of uses 1/4 connectors and I didn't need to buy any adaptors. It uses the same size as all my other air tools, 1/4 NPT

My bad. The filter DOES use 3/8 NPT for the inlet and outlet, but the adaptors come with the filter.

garylee

My bad. The filter DOES use 3/8 NPT for the inlet and outlet, but the adaptors come with the filter.

You will need 2 male-to-male adaptors, 3/8" to 1/4", for the compressor and airhose. The HF product picture shows male-female type adaptors. Check to make sure at the store before taking it home. It may save you an extra trip. I noticed that you have quick disconnect at both end of the filter/regulator in your setup. Icer may need to do the same thing.

For many tools compressor, the air outlet connector is a 1/4" quick disconnect. For airbrush compressor, it usually comes with a 1/4" to 1/4" adaptor. Not sure what the Sears compressor comes with.

I am also not sure if the HF filter/regulator is a good fit for airbrush. It is a high flow volume filter, which means coarse filter grid. Air tools are much more tolerant of debri and, in fact, wants oil mist in the air stream to help lubricate the air tool. I have a Sears 1-HP compressor in my garage for general household works. I usually do not mix the accessories with my airbrush setup.

randypandy831

Reasoned:

Harbor Freight 1/8hp, tankless, reg, moisture trap and quiet as can be, for not a whole lot.

 

 

my water trap is starting to crap out. have you had this problem?

Nope, mine is newer but I've also never found any moisture in it... yet.

OK, Keilau, let me clarify because you're absolutely right, that filter does come with a 3/8 male to 1/4 female adaptor (x2). I probably should have mentioned that when I bought the compressor I also bought a little accesory kit (I think about ten bucks, no more than $20) that came with a 1/4 NPT male to male, the quick disconnect, several male QD fittings, as well as some other stuff, like a blow gun and a nozzle for filling tires and what not. With that kit I didn't need to buy anything else. Well, except for some teflon tape.

Now, you say that filter is high flow so it could be better. Tell me more. Should I be using a low flow filter? maybe I could add another filter (with a finer grid but without the water trap) down stream from the water trap? I haven't had any problems so far but I don't want to start having trouble right in the middle of a paint job. I'm also wondering about the wisdom of using the same filter for both compressors. I attach the filter directly to the compressor on both of them, so I don't see what the damage could be, but perhaps you know more than I so please share your experience. I know that without the filter on the larger compressor my DA will start bleeding water after a while. The larger compressor is the Sears Powermate 26 gallon 1.6 HP model. Yes, I know, I really shouldn't be using a DA with that but the flow rate of the compressor is 5 cfm at 90 psi and that's exactly what the DA says it needs. But for this discussion I'm mainly concerned with the little airbrush compressor so any tips or advice on how to make that set up better and/or trouble free will be most appreciated.

garylee

OK, Keilau, let me clarify because you're absolutely right, that filter does come with a 3/8 male to 1/4 female adaptor (x2). I probably should have mentioned that when I bought the compressor I also bought a little accesory kit (I think about ten bucks, no more than $20) that came with a 1/4 NPT male to male, the quick disconnect, several male QD fittings, as well as some other stuff, like a blow gun and a nozzle for filling tires and what not. With that kit I didn't need to buy anything else. Well, except for some teflon tape.

Now, you say that filter is high flow so it could be better. Tell me more. Should I be using a low flow filter? maybe I could add another filter (with a finer grid but without the water trap) down stream from the water trap? I haven't had any problems so far but I don't want to start having trouble right in the middle of a paint job. I'm also wondering about the wisdom of using the same filter for both compressors. I attach the filter directly to the compressor on both of them, so I don't see what the damage could be, but perhaps you know more than I so please share your experience. I know that without the filter on the larger compressor my DA will start bleeding water after a while. The larger compressor is the Sears Powermate 26 gallon 1.6 HP model. Yes, I know, I really shouldn't be using a DA with that but the flow rate of the compressor is 5 cfm at 90 psi and that's exactly what the DA says it needs. But for this discussion I'm mainly concerned with the little airbrush compressor so any tips or advice on how to make that set up better and/or trouble free will be most appreciated.

Gary, the proof is in the pudding. I can see that you are doing well modeling. If your setup works fine for you in airbrushing, it is a GOOD setup. No reason to change it in any way.

My comments are meant for new comers to airbrushing like Icer. It just supplemented the details that you leave out, such as the accessory kit of connectors. It may save some frustration to find missing components after getting home.

I presume that you do not have your big Powermate compressor in the modeling workbench area. You must have a good arrangement for minimizing the noise. I have no firsthand experience with either the Powermate or the Evolv compressor. Personally, I have separate setup for airbrushing and household airtools. I like that arrangement better.

You have the spirit of this forum in sharing your experience. They are helpful to all of us.

Thanks for the info. about the reg./trap. I took my compressor back to Sears today. It was just too loud. :( If I had a house with a basement, it would have been fine, but I just need something quieter. Sound is the major determining factor for me.

Benn looking at the Sparmax AC-500, Sparmax TC-2000 and the Iwata Smart Jet (no tank for this one though :(). Quiet AND comes with a tank. Any suggestions?

One thing I didn't like about that Craftsman was it triggered the compressor too soon. The compressor would shut off at around 90 PSI in the tank and kick back in around 75. I thought I could at least drain the tank halfway before it would kick back in.

icer22x

Thanks for the info. about the reg./trap. I took my compressor back to Sears today. It was just too loud. :( If I had a house with a basement, it would have been fine, but I just need something quieter. Sound is the major determining factor for me.

Benn looking at the Sparmax AC-500, Sparmax TC-2000 and the Iwata Smart Jet (no tank for this one though :(). Quiet AND comes with a tank. Any suggestions?

One thing I didn't like about that Craftsman was it triggered the compressor too soon. The compressor would shut off at around 90 PSI in the tank and kick back in around 75. I thought I could at least drain the tank halfway before it would kick back in.

Sorry to hear the Evolv didn't work out for you.  I feel kind of bad that I brought it up.  I feel bad that you had to take the time, gas and energy to get something you eventually returned.  Sorry about that. 

Otherwise, when I fill mine up for airbrushing purposes, I'll let it fill up until it shuts off and then I'll unplug the unit to make sure it doesn't kick back on.  If I'm airbrushing, there's no need for the compresser to come back on when it gets down to 75 psi.  That's still more than enough pressure to paint a model during an airbrushing session.  But you're exactly right.  It will kick in after it drops a few PSI.  But for what we're using it for, we just need to remember to shut the unit off or unplug it after the initial fill-up.

I was hoping the Evolv would fill your needs.  My wife was sitting next to me last night as we were reading over the chat thread.  She even remarked that when I have the compressor turned on downstairs, she can't even hear it upstairs.

Eric

For Keilau: Thanks for the kind words. No, the big compressor is not near the modeling area. Here's a photo of my cheap little Harbor Freight compressor ($39.99 with coupon). A lot of guys talk bad about the quality of H.F. stuff, but I just love this little unit. It's actually really quiet, too. You have to actually be on the basement stairs before you can hear it running. It does everything I want it to do and doesn't give me any static. As you can see, I have the quick disconnect that came with the compressor attached to the compressor itself so I can just plug in the filter. So far I haven't had any issues with cross contamination from the big compressor and I've never seen even a hint of airtool oil when I use it on the little one. If I ever do detect even a hint of trouble I'll get a new filter for the little one and move this one to the garage permanently. I also liked how using the Q.D. on the compressor eliminated any clearance problems with the filter hitting the tank.

For Icer: Sorry to hear the craftsman didn't work out for you. I still think if you're in  Harbor Freight anyway you should given this one a listen. Remember what Keilau said, though, and take into consideration that it would be a little louder once you get it home in a smaller space. At least you should get some idea if it's louder or quieter than the craftsman. I still recommend a compressor with a tank. If you go with the Iwata maybe you can add a tank. I've seen 5 gallon tanks for about $30 and 11 gallons for about $40 but I don't know how difficult it would be to set them up with a tankless compressor. I saw one guy in this thread that said he added a tank so he would know more than I about that. When I first started out I had a tank made out of an old propane tank (like for your BBQ) and I filled it with a Black & Decker Airstation. Loud as all get out but I didn't have the noise concerns you do. Good luck with this, and I'll be looking forward to hearing how it finally comes out for you. And once again, great find on that 22 piece clamp set. It's at the top of my list for my next trip to H.F.

OOPS!!! Wrong photo. Let's try this again.

Since using a tankless compressor for several models, I would not let that be a reason for not buying one.  As stated numerous times, the HF1/8hp compressor works flawlessly (for me) to spray a small amount (as required for most models), is quiet and adjustable.  Now if I were an AB artist running it all day long...... perhaps a different response.

icer22x

Benn looking at the Sparmax AC-500, Sparmax TC-2000 and the Iwata Smart Jet (no tank for this one though :(). Quiet AND comes with a tank. Any suggestions?

I would say the order of preferance is just as you have it;

AC-500, twin with receiver,

TC-2000, same twin without receiver,

Smart Jet, Single from Sparmax - you will pay for the Iwata name.

Noise output from these will be similar.

icer22x

One thing I didn't like about that Craftsman was it triggered the compressor too soon. The compressor would shut off at around 90 PSI in the tank and kick back in around 75. I thought I could at least drain the tank halfway before it would kick back in.

No matter what point the compressor is set to recharge, overall the running time will be no different - a 1/2 tank will take twice as long to replenish as a 1/4 tank (more or less).

No worries Eric! It was a great suggestion - and as you said, you had no way of relaying to me how it would sound in my little apartment. When I finally get a bigger working space I will no doubt turn to Craftsman again and look at their other models. I was just paranoid that everyone around me could here it chugging away. Haha And I did exactly as you said - I let it charge to full then shut it off (when I was playing around with it). I then used the attachment as a pretend airbrush to see how fast a full tank would drain using around 20 PSI. Now with the attachment I was using I understand the air was coming out a lot faster than it would from an air brush. I just couldn't get past the idea that my neighbors were just being too nice to come down and beat on my door and ask me WTF I had running in my room.

Milair: That AC-500 only has a 2.5L tank on it. That's ALMOST a gallon. I have zero experience with air depletion when using an airbrush, but say I get my Badger 105, how long would it take to deplete a 2.5L tank of air while just holding down the trigger? I'm trying to see if I should get a cheaper tank-less compressor and just buy a bigger tank for it.

P.S. This is by far the most helpful non-arrogant forum I've been to in my many years of internet surfing. Maybe the paint fumes affect our brains in such a way...

If I could, I'd buy you all a beer for your help. Guinness of course. Non-negotiable.

Not to thread jack, but for those of you with the Harbor Freight compressor, I have a question.

I saw in an eariler post that it comes with an optional 1/4"male in - 3/8" male out.  How do you removed the factory fitting to install the adapter.  I want to use my nicer hose but it has the 3/8" female fitting.

With the regulator/trap assemble plastic and the fitting brass, it looks like it is sealed some how.  I used a 13 or 14mm wrench and the sucker wouldnt budge. I didn't want to crack the regulater.

FYI, even though the compressor is only a week old, I would recomend it.  I ended up spending my money on a nicer AB (iwata HP-CS) and saved on the compressor.  Works great, though I am a newbie to air brushing.  If I ever need to replace, then I might go up on a better unit.

Thanks!

John

icer22x

That AC-500 only has a 2.5L tank on it. That's ALMOST a gallon. I have zero experience with air depletion when using an airbrush, but say I get my Badger 105, how long would it take to deplete a 2.5L tank of air while just holding down the trigger? I'm trying to see if I should get a cheaper tank-less compressor and just buy a bigger tank for it.

If you leave it with me, I can tell you more or less exactly how long it will run for.............. I'm assuming that the 105 has 0.5mm needle / nozzle & also that you will spend most of your time brushing at an average 20psi?

john087

With the regulator/trap assemble plastic and the fitting brass, it looks like it is sealed some how.  I used a 13 or 14mm wrench and the sucker wouldnt budge. I didn't want to crack the regulater.

 

I can't comment on your exact model, but regulator fittings are normaly fitted in factory with thread sealant which often dries very hard, like varnish. It should come out with some persuasion, but it might be wise to hold the regulator body firmly in a vice to try & prevent any possible damage - you will also need some thread sealant or PTFE tape when fitting the new part.

icer22x

Milair: That AC-500 only has a 2.5L tank on it. That's ALMOST a gallon. I have zero experience with air depletion when using an airbrush, but say I get my Badger 105, how long would it take to deplete a 2.5L tank of air while just holding down the trigger? I'm trying to see if I should get a cheaper tank-less compressor and just buy a bigger tank for it.

Most of the airbrush compressors, all 3 of your candidates included, have an auto-on-off pressure of 15 psi apart. It will not take long for a 1-gallon tank to drop 15 psi in airbrushing. So the compressor motor will kick on every 2-3 minutes. But it is quiet enough that it will not bother the modeler when it does.

I have a Paasche DA400 without an airtank. It is very similar to and came from the same factory as the Sparmax TC-2000. I added a tank to it myself. It was a fun project, but did not make any difference in the compressor performance.

Keilau: Nice thread! That's what I am leaning more towards. No sense in spending $100 more for a 2.5L tank. I'd rather get the TC-2000 and get used to it first. If I feel I need a tank later on, I can always get some brass tubing.

Where did you get that tank by the way?

john087

Not to thread jack, but for those of you with the Harbor Freight compressor, I have a question.

I saw in an eariler post that it comes with an optional 1/4"male in - 3/8" male out.  How do you removed the factory fitting to install the adapter.  I want to use my nicer hose but it has the 3/8" female fitting.

With the regulator/trap assemble plastic and the fitting brass, it looks like it is sealed some how.  I used a 13 or 14mm wrench and the sucker wouldnt budge. I didn't want to crack the regulater.

 Thanks!

 

John

I just looked at mine and I attached the coiled air hose that came with the compressor to the regulator outlet and then attached an adaptor to transition from the coiled hose to my Paasche H hose (not sure of the fitting sizes).

For John087: Don't worry about the thread jacking thing. I would call that contributing. I can tell you what I would do, and maybe that will help. If you look at the photo I posted earlier in this thread of my H.F. compressor you can see that I left the quick disconnect on the compressor, just like it came out of the box. I then used a 1/4 NPT male q.d. fitting in the input side of the filter (right into the fitting that's already in the filter) so it just plugs into the compressor. I then  added a 1/4 NPT male to male coupler in  the output side, right into the adaptor that's already in the filter when you buy it, and screwed another female q.d. cooupler into that (all that can be seen in the photo). If I were you, I'd do it the same way and then get a 3/8 female to 1/4 male adaptor and put that on the end of my airbrush hose. Then you attach a 1/4 female to male q.d. fitting to the end of that adaptor and it will plug right into the q.d. connector on the output side of the filter. That way you can just unplug your airbrush hose when not in use, and if you want to use the compressor for anything else it's all set with the q.d. coupler from the factory.

A little off topic here icer22x but I couldn't help but notice a distinct resemblance in your avatar and the truss rod cover on my Carvin DC-127 guitar.

Nice Mike! The Punisher is my favorite comic book hero. He lacks super powers/fancy gadgets yet he still is able to rid evil. Just a man and his arsenal.

icer22x

 That AC-500 only has a 2.5L tank on it. That's ALMOST a gallon. I have zero experience with air depletion when using an airbrush, but say I get my Badger 105, how long would it take to deplete a 2.5L tank of air while just holding down the trigger? I'm trying to see if I should get a cheaper tank-less compressor and just buy a bigger tank for it.

Here are some numbers from a Revell Master Class unit, which is a re-branded Sparmax unit with the same spec as the AC-500. These numbers will be similar for most compressors with the same HP rating & tank size.

The variable here will be the airbrush & nozzle size used, as one manufacturers 0.? nozzle set will not have the same flow as another's 0.? one. These figures come from a H&S airbrush with the 0.2 & 0.4mm nozzle sets - for what it's worth I would imagine that the 105 would be somewhere between the two (all figures for 20psi output);

25 Seconds to fill from empty,

55 Seconds to restart with 0.2mm nozzle set,

15 Seconds to restart with 0.4mm nozzle set,

8 seconds from restart to full (no flow),

2 Min. 35 Seconds to drain tank to 20psi with 0.2mm nozzle set,

45 Seconds to drain tank to 20psi on 0.4mm nozzle set,

18 Seconds from 20psi to refill (no flow).

These figures can only be used as an approximation, as your airbrush, nozzle size & usage will have a fair impact on performance, these figure were also worked with the compressor gages, which although accurate enough for their intended use, are not perfect. As a rough idea, I do mainly 1/72 large aircraft & spend most of my time working with an 0.2mm nozzle set at 20psi. Also remember that for any given job or session that you will only be using the airbrush for a percentage of that time, between start/stop, moving parts, paint changes & fiddling I would say that I am only on the trigger 50% of the time on average

On the question of noise, this compressor isn't by any means silent, but it is not noisy. I keep mine in a kitchen type cupboard, & it's pretty quiet in the room it's being used in & cant be hear anywhere else in the house.

icer22x

Keilau: Nice thread! That's what I am leaning more towards. No sense in spending $100 more for a 2.5L tank. I'd rather get the TC-2000 and get used to it first. If I feel I need a tank later on, I can always get some brass tubing.

Where did you get that tank by the way?

I got the tank as a surplus item on Ebay for $10. But I ended up spending a lot more on fittings, tubings etc. The most difficult part to find was the check valve. Not recommended unless you enjoy it as a project by itself.

If I were to do it again, I will just buy the cheap $40 compressor at Habor Freight and replace the compressor with the quiet dual piston unit and keep everything else. The TCPGlobal also sells a tank add-on kit (or they use to) for about $40. Either way, you get all the parts you need at one place.

If you are getting the TC-2000, it has plenty of steady airflow for the Badger 105 and another airbrush simutaneously. I have the Patriot fine nozzle, but don't use it much. My go-to airbrush for modeling is the Iwata HP-CS that I also got from Hobby Lobby. I like the Harder Steenbeck Evolution Silverliner too. I have a Badger Krome, but have not had much time to try it out thoroughly yet. All four of the above mentioned are good choice for modeling.

Milairjunkie

icer22x:

 That AC-500 only has a 2.5L tank on it. That's ALMOST a gallon. I have zero experience with air depletion when using an airbrush, but say I get my Badger 105, how long would it take to deplete a 2.5L tank of air while just holding down the trigger? I'm trying to see if I should get a cheaper tank-less compressor and just buy a bigger tank for it.

 

Here are some numbers from a Revell Master Class unit, which is a re-branded Sparmax unit with the same spec as the AC-500. These numbers will be similar for most compressors with the same HP rating & tank size.

The variable here will be the airbrush & nozzle size used, as one manufacturers 0.? nozzle set will not have the same flow as another's 0.? one. These figures come from a H&S airbrush with the 0.2 & 0.4mm nozzle sets - for what it's worth I would imagine that the 105 would be somewhere between the two (all figures for 20psi output);

25 Seconds to fill from empty,

55 Seconds to restart with 0.2mm nozzle set,

15 Seconds to restart with 0.4mm nozzle set,

8 seconds from restart to full (no flow),

2 Min. 35 Seconds to drain tank to 20psi with 0.2mm nozzle set,

45 Seconds to drain tank to 20psi on 0.4mm nozzle set,

18 Seconds from 20psi to refill (no flow).

These figures can only be used as an approximation, as your airbrush, nozzle size & usage will have a fair impact on performance, these figure were also worked with the compressor gages, which although accurate enough for their intended use, are not perfect. As a rough idea, I do mainly 1/72 large aircraft & spend most of my time working with an 0.2mm nozzle set at 20psi. Also remember that for any given job or session that you will only be using the airbrush for a percentage of that time, between start/stop, moving parts, paint changes & fiddling I would say that I am only on the trigger 50% of the time on average

On the question of noise, this compressor isn't by any means silent, but it is not noisy. I keep mine in a kitchen type cupboard, & it's pretty quiet in the room it's being used in & cant be hear anywhere else in the house.

Very interesting observations. It pits my curiosity and make me do some test with my Paasche DA400 compressor with a home-added 1-gallon tank.

It has the same size motor and dual piston as the Revell Master Class and the Iwata Powerjet, all of which came from the same Sparmax factory in Taiwan. The Paasche, being a older model, has a higher 75 psi on and 93 psi off auto setting. This is quite a bit higher than most current compressors at typical 60-45 psi off-on setting.

Here are the timings: All airbrush set at 20 psi with a remote regulator.

5 minutes to fill to 93 psi from empty,

65 Seconds to restart at 75 psi with 0.2mm nozzle set (H&S Evolution),

51 Seconds to restart with 0.21mm nozzle set (Badger Krome),

42 Seconds to restart with 0.5mm nozzle set (Badger 105 Fine),

48 seconds from restart to full (75 to 93 psi no flow),

4 Min. 25 Seconds to drain tank to 20psi with 0.2mm nozzle set (H&S Evolution),

2 Min. 40 Seconds to drain tank to 20psi with 0.5mm nozzle set (Badger 105 Fine),

4 minutes from 20psi to full (no flow).

Some may notice that I left out my favorite Iwata HP-CS with 0.35mm nozzle. Yes, I measured it too. The timing was 30 seconds to restart and 1:43 minutes to 20 psi. These numbers seemed too quick. I heard hissing sound when I bring the CS closer to my ear which indicates a leak somewhere, like the trigger or connector. Well, back to bench for cleaning.

I was obviously aware of the fact that a larger needle/nozzle combination have a higher flow rate than smaller ones, but I was quite surpised to what degree!

Milairjunkie

I was obviously aware of the fact that a larger needle/nozzle combination have a higher flow rate than smaller ones, but I was quite surpised to what degree!

I am surprised how small the change in time with different nozzle diameters.

The Patriot's 0.5mm nozzle is 6 times larger than the 0.2mm nozzle of the Evolution in openning area. But the Patriot did not drop the pressure anywhere near 6 times faster. It is more like only 40% faster. Obviously, how far back the needle retracts is a factor.

I don't know what all this numbers you and I measured mean. It tells me that a small 1-gallon tank does not reduce the number of motor on-off of a compressor that much if the compressor has auto on-off to begin with. I also found the the airflow from these dual piston compressors to be very steady and the tank did not improve the performance in that regard.

I was thinking about this & asking myself why does the 0.4 use nearly 4 times as much air as the 0.2, as it's only twice the size & should only use twice as much.................

Being a dumb ass I was looking at the difference in nozzle diameter rather than nozzle area, the 0.4 having 4 times the area of the 0.2. So 15 seconds for an 0.4 compared to 55 seconds for an 0.2 reasonably represents the larger nozzle set's size & consequent flow rate.

keilau

 

If I were to do it again, I will just buy the cheap $40 compressor at Habor Freight and replace the compressor with the quiet dual piston unit and keep everything else.

Which compressor is this? I found a $60 one on their website. But nothing cheaper.

The Harbor Freight $40 compressor is lot #95275, but you need a coupon to get that price. You can usually find the coupon in magazines like Car Craft or Hot Rod, and sometimes they'll be in the mail flyers. If you want to get one and can't find the coupon I have one that expires 10/26/11. Contact me by clicking on the "start a conversation"  button of this post and I'll get your info and mail you the coupon.

icer22x

keilau:

If I were to do it again, I will just buy the cheap $40 compressor at Habor Freight and replace the compressor with the quiet dual piston unit and keep everything else.

 

 Which compressor is this? I found a $60 one on their website. But nothing cheaper.

Gary Lee answered your question af HF directly.

Here is another $40 option at Northern Tool. You can try the compressor as is. If you want more powerful motor, then, replace the compressor with the dual piston one. Not bad for $40.

Wow thanks Gary. Great suggestion too. I think I am going to go with that strategy. Airbrush + the Northern Tool compressor. That way I already have a tank and compressor to use and if I want to the TC2000 later, I can purchase that and transfer it onto this 3/4 gallon tank. Excellent idea I do say.

Plus, both comments are 5 stars. One buyer actually uses it for airbrushing models and loves it.

Icer:  The northern tool suggestion wasn't me. Normally I try to hog all the credit I can get but not on this forum. This is the first time I've seen that particular unit. It sure does look good, though. I hope you'll post a thorough review if you get one. And in case anyone's interested, I just ordered the brand spankin' new 1/32 scale Heinkel HE 111 Revell kit from Europe. I'll do a thorough in the box review as soon as it gets here (with photos of course) because I know a lot of guys have been waiting for this kit.

I definitely will post a review on it. I've just ordered that and my BRAND NEW BADGER VELOCITY! I switched to that instead of a 105 - did more research on it. :)

You all will get a review of this cheapo compressor when I get it. From the reviews on the site (both from "professionals"), they gave it 5 stars. One was a modeler. So I am excited.

This is a forum I actually FEEL like contributing back too. :)

icer22x

I definitely will post a review on it. I've just ordered that and my BRAND NEW BADGER VELOCITY! I switched to that instead of a 105 - did more research on it. :)

Did you consider the Badger Krome instead? Here is some background of it.

You know that both the Velocity and the Krome use very fine (0.2mm) nozzle and are designed for artists in mind. Good for modeling too, but you need to be patient with the paint release.

You all will get a review of this cheapo compressor when I get it. From the reviews on the site (both from "professionals"), they gave it 5 stars. One was a modeler. So I am excited.

This is a forum I actually FEEL like contributing back too. :)

Note the dates of those 2 reviews? Wait to give us your own take of this shipment. At the low cost tools site, the product may be from a different source in China each time. Hope that this is as good as the older ones. But for $40, what could have gone wrong, right?

When you get it, turn it on and check around for leaks. Most of time, it just needs some tightening and the compressor will work fine.

garylee

Icer:  The northern tool suggestion wasn't me. Normally I try to hog all the credit I can get but not on this forum. This is the first time I've seen that particular unit. It sure does look good, though. I hope you'll post a thorough review if you get one. And in case anyone's interested,

Who know whether this $40 compressor with tank is a wonderful deal or a dog! Better not to get the credit for bringing it up.

keilau

 

You know that both the Velocity and the Krome use very fine (0.2mm) nozzle and are designed for artists in mind. Good for modeling too, but you need to be patient with the paint release.

 

The fine nozzle is what attracted me to it. If you've ever seen SMConsortium's channel on YouTube, he uses the Velocity for a majority of his modeling (scale and figures). Here has this massive (11 part?) video walk-through of him assembling a Tamiya Corsair. Here's the link for those who are interested:

http://www.youtube.com/user/SMConsortium#p/u/43/bBspb4kO6L0

I watched him demo his Velocity and I was happy with the amount of paint that you're able to spray with the trigger pulled all the way back. He also uses the Velocity on that build and came with amazing results.

icer22x

keilau:

You know that both the Velocity and the Krome use very fine (0.2mm) nozzle and are designed for artists in mind. Good for modeling too, but you need to be patient with the paint release.

 

The fine nozzle is what attracted me to it. If you've ever seen SMConsortium's channel on YouTube, he uses the Velocity for a majority of his modeling (scale and figures). Here has this massive (11 part?) video walk-through of him assembling a Tamiya Corsair. Here's the link for those who are interested:

http://www.youtube.com/user/SMConsortium#p/u/43/bBspb4kO6L0

I watched him demo his Velocity and I was happy with the amount of paint that you're able to spray with the trigger pulled all the way back. He also uses the Velocity on that build and came with amazing results.

The choice of an airbrush is often personal. The Badger Velocity is definitely a very good airbrush for modeling. The skilled modeler can use almost any airbrush and get excellent results.

For years, I watch the Bret Green's Testors Scale Workshop and is facinated with his work. I bought an Aztek A4709 kit in 2008, but got rid of if within a few months. It just did not work for me.

I got an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS from the local Hobby Lobby because it is cheap and easy to get parts. It is my main modeling airbrush since. I also found that this airbrush helped me to build up skill faster. Obviously, it got me to feel more attached to it emotionally.

I also saw the wonderful video by Phil Flory who uses an Harder & Steenbeck Evolution with 0.2mm nozzle. I bought one of the H&S, but still use the Iwata most of the time for modeling.

I also have the Badger Patriot Fine and Krome. All are wonderful tools for modeling. Let us know how you like the compressor and airbrush after you use them for awhile. Good luck and have fun.

Wow, thanks for that link! I've been searching for SOMEONE who uses Testors paints in airbrushes. It seems everywhere I look, people are either using Tamiya or Vallejo. Testors for me, like your airbrush, is more of a personal/emotional attachment. I've grown accustom to their color names and have been afriad to switch because I don't know what Testors Dark Brown is in Tamiya or Vallejo (among other colors). Besides, they've always been good paints for me. I'm interested to see how they handle in an airbrush.

icer22x

Wow, thanks for that link! I've been searching for SOMEONE who uses Testors paints in airbrushes. It seems everywhere I look, people are either using Tamiya or Vallejo. Testors for me, like your airbrush, is more of a personal/emotional attachment. I've grown accustom to their color names and have been afriad to switch because I don't know what Testors Dark Brown is in Tamiya or Vallejo (among other colors). Besides, they've always been good paints for me. I'm interested to see how they handle in an airbrush.

Cautions about using Testors Model Master Acrylic in airbrush:

1. It should be thinned. Do not believe Testors recommendation that it can be airbrushed out of the bottle.
2. Use Testors brand of thinner only. It can gump up with other brand of thinner.

I use acrylic only in airbrush because I do not have a spray booth. I had the MM acrylic gumped up one time, but was able to limit the damage since I mix paint in small plastic cups first. Wow.

This is one of the color conversion charts and you can find many more that includes Testors paints.

I still use Testors MM, but ofter need other brands for some of the colors.

Hey Icer,

I hear ya on being attached to Testor's paint. Me too. The color reference chart is cool, but I've got one you're gonna love. Go to www.paint4models and play around in there for a while. It's free and it allows you to cross reference between brands. The best part is that if you click on a particular brand you can drag it around, so say you're kit lists only Humbrol colors and you want to use MM, all you do is drag the Humbrol column next to the MM column and there they are, side by side for conversion. You can use the chart at the site or download it. I don't think there's a charge to download, but I know for sure that using the chart at the site is free. Let me know how you like it.

Once again, I screwed up the link. try this: www.paint4models.com

One more thing about paint4models: if you download the chart it's not the same chart as you get when you use it at the site. It still works, but you can't move the columns so it can be a lot more work. I usually just use it right at the site.

Keilau: Thanks for the warning. I would never just pour the paint into my airbrush from the jar anyway. But about the thinner - I can't even use distilled water on their acrylics? I've heard distilled water or IP alcohol work as good thinners for acrylics. But this was for Tamiya. Bleh that sucks... I was wanting to avoid spending money on acrylic thinners when I could just use water or IP.

Gary: The funny thing is I linked that same chart the other day in this forum. Haha Thanks though! :)

icer22x

Keilau: Thanks for the warning. I would never just pour the paint into my airbrush from the jar anyway. But about the thinner - I can't even use distilled water on their acrylics? I've heard distilled water or IP alcohol work as good thinners for acrylics. But this was for Tamiya. Bleh that sucks... I was wanting to avoid spending money on acrylic thinners when I could just use water or IP.

 

I have never used a company's thinner with any paint as it's unnecessary. Try your own thinners first before wasting good money on overpriced thinners. Iso alcohol or ethyl alcohol works fine for me usually. I have not tried the newest MM Acryl paints as I too use Tamiya but I had no problems a few years back with Acryl when I used it.

Acryll can be some strange stuff. Open one bottle and it's already thin as water, open the next and it's so thick you could turn it into 4 bottles. And then there's all the ones in between. I've thinned it with distilled water, or even tap water, with no problems but normally I use Testors Acryll thinner. I don't use alcohol with it, it dries to quickly as it is.

This spring my Iwata Sprint Jet quit building pressure so I went over to Harbor Freight and got one of their 1/5 horsepower airbrush compressors and it works great. A small bonus was, it came with an extra compression ring which is what failed in my Iwata and they're exactly the same. Also, the Harbor Freight has auto shutoff. Came with a free airbrush too. hehe

Tony

Hey Icer,

You and I talked briefly the other day about seams, so I thought I'd let you know I bought one of those seam scrapers from Micro-Mark (Item #80801) and I just tried it out on this FW 190. It works great. I used it as a first step and then I just needed a couple passes with a medium and then a fine sanding stick and I do believe with a little primer the seam won't show at all. My little Kodak doesn't have the best resolution, but maybe this will give you some idea.

Tony: I bought one of those cheap $12 airbrushes from Harbor Freight and it makes a pretty good primer gun. Saves wear and tear on the Iwata, ya know?

garylee

Hey Icer,

You and I talked briefly the other day about seams, so I thought I'd let you know I bought one of those seam scrapers from Micro-Mark (Item #80801) and I just tried it out on this FW 190. It works great. I used it as a first step and then I just needed a couple passes with a medium and then a fine sanding stick and I do believe with a little primer the seam won't show at all. My little Kodak doesn't have the best resolution, but maybe this will give you some idea.

That's impressive, did you use CA or cement for the fuelage bond?

Testror's liquid cement (in the black bottle with the metal tube/tip). I'm pretty careful so there was only a couple small spots where the glue oozed out, but the scraper took both plastic and glue together, and I was kinda impressed by that because this airfix kit is pretty soft. It just curls off a tiny bit at a time. Kinda makes a mess but that's half the fun, right? The tool was eleven or twelve bucks, but now I'm really glad I bought it. I think I'll be using it a lot in the future.

garylee

Hey Icer,

You and I talked briefly the other day about seams, so I thought I'd let you know I bought one of those seam scrapers from Micro-Mark (Item #80801) and I just tried it out on this FW 190. It works great. I used it as a first step and then I just needed a couple passes with a medium and then a fine sanding stick and I do believe with a little primer the seam won't show at all. My little Kodak doesn't have the best resolution, but maybe this will give you some idea.

Looks great! Upon my re-entry into scale modeling, seams kind of frighten me. All the years past before I took a break I just ignored them. But then again I wasn't NEAR as well informed about this hobby as I am today.

Not to stray from the main topic of this thread... haha (I will be posting my review of my compressor here as soon as I get it in the mail) But through my research into seam elimination (correct me if I am wrong!) I found that using a plastic welder cement can be handy. I figure using Tamiya Super Thin works well for smaller seams (as well as an all-around fantastic glue) and something like Tenax for the larger seams. Of course this is accompanied by sanding after it dries. I've also seen people using magic putty (or a similar formula i.e. Miliput) for large gaps. I also found a pretty nifty walk-through of using Mr. Surfacer to block a seam.

I assume there are many ways of going at it. My problem is identifying WHICH method to use at the proper time.

Also, where did you get that seam tool and what is it called? I have a massive list of all the supplies I am ordering. Might as well add this to it. haha

Hey Icer'

The tool is just called "Seam Scraper" and it's item #80801 and you can get it at www.micromark.com  It's on sale right now for $10.85 (list is $18.65). Micromark has lots of cool stuff. I just got another box from them yesterday and it was kinda like Christmas in July. I think the coolest item in this box was the Waldron punch set I finally broke down and bought.

I wouldn't worry too much about going off topic. We've pretty much covered the reason you started the thread and you've ordered your compressor and airbrush so I would say a little general discussion would be OK. But then, I'm new to the forum so if I'm wrong about that I hope one of you veterans will enlighten me. I really, really like this forum so I don't want to do anything taboo.

Like you, i'm just returning to the hobby after a long hiatus (15 years in my case). But even though I haven't been modeling I've been a subscriber to FSM for the last ten years (I get my subscription for three years at a time so I get a really good deal. And don't believe that price in the magazine. If you haggle with them they'll come down some) and the amount of stuff I've learned just from reading the magazine is phenomenal.

As for glue, I'm like you in that I don't always know just which one to use, but I basically use CA for stuff like seatbelts and resin, clear parts cement for canopies and windows, and for styrene to styrene joints I use the old reliable Testor's liquid cement. For small gaps I'll use Zap-a-Gap and for larger gaps it's squadron putty (both green and white) and sometimes regular automotive spot putty. That stuff works surprisingly well and it sands real easily. Sometimes if I want a really strong joint I'll even fall all the way back to good old fashioned tube glue. That's one thing that's really changed while I was away is glue technology. Now I have half a dozen different kinds on the bench, and that's not counting epoxies and fillers.

I'll be looking forward to your review of the new compressor. I'd especially like to know how loud it is compared to the craftsman you took back.

Gary

Thanks for the link to that website. And if anyone is interested, H.F. has a deal right now for a $7 rotary tool with all accessories!

Also just got my Badger Velocity in the mail today. I can't put it down! It feels so good in my hand. I can't wait to get the compressor in and start practicing.

Hey Icer,

I got a coupon for that rotary tool for $6.99 about a month ago. I bought two. It works pretty good, and I like the fact that it's a lot slower than the minimum setting on a dremel. Melting plastic seems to be less of an issue. The seat in the FW 190 kit was smooth and flat and it should have been kind of hollowed out, like a tray (hard to describe without seeing it) and I used the H.F. mototool to to hollow it out to match my reference photos. Worked like a charm, and at that price even if it craps out in a few months it was still a good deal.

Gary

Hey Icer,

Exactly which airbrush did you get? I thought you were getting the 105, but your last post says Velocity. Unless the 105 IS a velocity? I was curious so I went to merriartist and they had two Velocities, the R1V and the R4VJ. Is it one of those? Mainly just curious. I'm looking forward to hearing what you think of it. I'm using the Iwata HP-CS and I really like it, but I'm always looking for new options.

Did you see the airbrush holder I'm using? it's on page three of this thread. I was on squadron.com and I saw the Badger airbrush holder for 26 bucks and had to laugh. Mine cost a dollar.

Oh yeah, I went to H.F. and picked up that 22 piece clamp set you turned me on to. Good find. Just in time, too, as the larger clamps turned out to be just perfect for when I installed the main landing gear on the FW 190. One thing that tripped me out is the size listings. What they call a 1 3/8 clamp in the 22 piece set is exactly the same as the clamp I bought seperately that's marked 1 1/2 and the small clamps are marked one inch and they're exactly the same as the mini clamps, which are marked 7/8 of an inch. Weird.

Gary

Yeah in an earlier post I said I was switching. I got the Badger Velocity R1V instead. There is a YouTube model builder (a member of Scale Model Addict) that uses a Velocity on all of his builds. What sold me was the fact that it has a screw in the back that stops your trigger pull at whichever length you want it at.

And yes I saw your holder! It was great. But I got one of those Iwata cleaning stations with my airbrush and it doubles as a holder, so I was pretty happy about that. Plus it's cheap for what it does. $25 (or around that). And the base is glass - good construction.

My clamps haven't come in yet. :( I'm so anxious to get my compressor in so I can make a good review of both that and my new airbrush. But if you want the channel of that YouTube builder, his user name is SMConsortium. Go watch his stuff. He has a detailed look at the Velocity and also has a 10-part walk through of him building a Tamiya Corsair. I learned a lot from that alone.

P.S. I don't know if any of you have ordered from Northern Tool, but it's been 4 days since I ordered my compressor and they still haven't shipped it. lol Hopefully it goes out tomorrow.

I saw that guy on Youtube building the corsair. He's pretty good, too. Very informative. That stop screw sounds like it's pretty cool. I rarely spray with the brush wide open so that would be great for consistency. I'll be looking forward to your review of the airbrush to see what other cool features it has. I wonder if I could make some kind of stop for my Iwata with a small hose clamp. I'll have to investigate. I doubt that would be all that easy to adjust, but maybe I can figure something out.

Did you have to order the clamps? I thought you had a H.F. store close by? Or were they out of stock and you're waiting for them to arrive at the store? I think you'll like them. The only bad thing about them is they tend to slip off sloped sufaces, like wings, but if you put a strip of masking tape where you want to put the clamp it takes care of the problem. Just don't put the tape under the pad, put it down in a strip so when the clamp starts sliding the tape acts like a stop.

The four days you've been waiting for them to ship your compressor could be worse. I recently placed an order with Roll Models and they waited till AFTER they had my credit card info and the order was placed to tell me it wouldn't ship for two to three WEEKS. I waited over a month for that order and that's why I won't go back to them. They have pretty good prices but I'd rather pay an extra buck or two and get my stuff in a reasonable amount of time. Scalehobbyist.com seems to be about the quickest I've found, and they also have great prices, but Squadron and Micromark are also pretty fast to get your shipment out.

Gary

garylee

I wonder if I could make some kind of stop for my Iwata with a small hose clamp. I'll have to investigate. I doubt that would be all that easy to adjust, but maybe I can figure something out.

Gary

Iwata makes a preset handle add-on for the HP-CS. You can get generic one from BearAir cheap.

icer22x

P.S. I don't know if any of you have ordered from Northern Tool, but it's been 4 days since I ordered my compressor and they still haven't shipped it. lol Hopefully it goes out tomorrow.

You should have received an email from them acknowledging your order. If not, call them.

If you ordered last week, they did anounced earlier that orders would be delayed due to their warehouse or software maintanance or something like that. They will ship mid week this week. Did you see something like that?

Most important, make sure that your credit card is not charged yet until they ship.

Keilau: You da man.  I checked it out and it looks good. Now where'd I put that credit card?

garylee

Keilau: You da man.  I checked it out and it looks good. Now where'd I put that credit card?

It is not my responsbility that you spend money that you shouldn't have.

I did not try this. I have two other airbrush that came with preset, H&S Evolution Silverliner and Badger Krome. Let us know how the handle works out for you.

Gary: The stop screw and fine nozzle are what sold this AB for me. Can't complain about the gunmetal/silver finish either. It's awesome. It's heavy enough to feel very good in your hand. I did take it all apart and noticed the inside of AB has a strange coating on the metal - almost a yellow/copper tarnish. I've seen other videos of this AB and noticed it too... maybe it's normal. It doesn't look like the metal is degrading in any way, just a strange color.

Also, I live in northern Ark. There's nothing up here except a Walmart. Haha If I need anything relating to this hobby, I have to make the hour trip to Little Rock. So everything I buy is offline. I miss my old home in GA - I had about 45 hobby stores around me. lol

Keilau: Thanks man for the info. I received an e-mail from them, but only notifying me that they had gotten my order and that it was processing. Nothing about a delay. Now I know!

Hey Guys,

I was going to do a thread for this question, but I think some of the guys following this one may be able to help me. I've never before tried to decant paint from a spray can to use in my airbrush. Anyone got a tried and true method? Can you please give me a little block of instruction on how to go about it? Just blasting that spray into a little one ounce bottle doesn't seem like a good idea, but maybe that's the only way? I ran out of bottled primer and I can't find it anywhere. I do have model master spray enamel white primer, though. So how do I get it from the can to the airbrush?

garylee

Hey Guys,

I was going to do a thread for this question, but I think some of the guys following this one may be able to help me. I've never before tried to decant paint from a spray can to use in my airbrush. Anyone got a tried and true method? Can you please give me a little block of instruction on how to go about it? Just blasting that spray into a little one ounce bottle doesn't seem like a good idea, but maybe that's the only way? I ran out of bottled primer and I can't find it anywhere. I do have model master spray enamel white primer, though. So how do I get it from the can to the airbrush?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oteliqdTvgw&feature=related

A bit lengthy by the time you have also watched the 2nd part, but describes the process well.

Milairjunkie,

Perfect. Exactly what I needed. I knew you guys would come through. Thank you!!

Milair beat me to it. lol That's a great video.

So was I the only one that hadn't seen that video? It was great, though. I already tried it and it worked like a charm and I now have a bunch of primer ready to use. That reminds me, it's been a half hour so it should be ready to go in the smaller job and get a lid. Thanks again.  

garylee

So was I the only one that hadn't seen that video? It was great, though. I already tried it and it worked like a charm and I now have a bunch of primer ready to use. That reminds me, it's been a half hour so it should be ready to go in the smaller job and get a lid. Thanks again.  

Brett Green's Scale Workshop is an old standby gem. Decanting is # 47 and 48. Check out the others. You have to get use to his British ascent though. Enjoy.

I have used a Thayer and Chandler Air Star V for many years. It's been very reliable. Good pressure control and moisture trap. You can get one at Tower hobbies.

The next time any of you guys see me on here talkin' 'bout what a great deal I got at Harbor Freight, somebody remind me about the $12 airbrush I thought would make a good primer gun. Or better yet, just come over here and slap me.

I was there today and saw there version of an air brush ($20) and opened the box of one of them to see what they looked like. After I saw what it looked like I quickly moved on to what I was going to buy next which was their version of a air brush cleaning bottle. For $10 I thought it was worth it. The air brush was NOT!

Rchjr

Rchjr

I was there today and saw there version of an air brush ($20) and opened the box of one of them to see what they looked like. After I saw what it looked like I quickly moved on to what I was going to buy next which was their version of a air brush cleaning bottle. For $10 I thought it was worth it. The air brush was NOT!

Rchjr

Well, the hose is nice, it came with an adapter to use airbrushes with the small thread (old Testors single action?) and I can always use the airbrush to pinstripe furniture. It doesn't work too bad if you use high pressure and fairly thin paint. Sprays kind of like a rattlecan. I'll know better next time. I still like the H.F. clamps!

Hey guys, I got everything in! Been doing some practice before I make a good review of my compressor and airbrush. I already SLIGHTLY bent the needle wiping a cloth over the front and not being careful!! It still works though (and I have three replacement needles on the way). Talk about a rookie mistake..................................

I am trying to get the thinning down pat. Weird issue though - was wondering if anyone has experienced this with their airbrush. When I am trying to spray a hairline thin paint line, it will work fine for the first few seconds then paint will stop flowing. If I release the needle and pull back again to same length (keeping air flowing the whole time) it starts to work again for another few seconds. This is only when trying to achieve VERY thin lines. I can pull back all the way and watch paint flow until the cup runs out. lol I'm not sure what could cause this...

But with more practice and usage I'll write back about my compressor and airbrush.

Icer22x,

How is the compressor so far? Is it very loud? I am thinking of ordering one as well and curious as to how it is performing.

Thanks,

Rchjr

It's extremely quiet. It works wells for $40. There is a small leak I have to find. If I leave the tank full, I hear the compressor turn on again in about 10 minutes due to the leak. I don't know where it would be. I tightened all the nuts on it, so we'll see. I will post a detailed review once I have gotten used to it.

icer22x

Weird issue though - was wondering if anyone has experienced this with their airbrush. When I am trying to spray a hairline thin paint line, it will work fine for the first few seconds then paint will stop flowing. If I release the needle and pull back again to same length (keeping air flowing the whole time) it starts to work again for another few seconds. This is only when trying to achieve VERY thin lines. I can pull back all the way and watch paint flow until the cup runs out. lol I'm not sure what could cause this...

Sounds very much like tip dry, which is relatively common with acrylic paint, try adding a bit more thinner or adding a flow aid or retarder.

Icer22x,

That is a bummer about the leak, are you going to send it back?

Rchjr

icer22x

It's extremely quiet. It works wells for $40. There is a small leak I have to find. If I leave the tank full, I hear the compressor turn on again in about 10 minutes due to the leak. I don't know where it would be. I tightened all the nuts on it, so we'll see. I will post a detailed review once I have gotten used to it.

If it takes 10 minutes to drop the tank pressure from 60 psi to 45 psi, I will not worry about it. When you airbrush, you will find the motor turns on a lot more frequent.

How long does it take for the compressor to kickin when you hold down the airbrush trigger? (Just blowing dry air.)

keilau

 

When you airbrush, you will find the tanks turn on a lot more frequent.

Tanks turn on? That's quite a compressor. Sorry Keilau I couldn't resist.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will try to get used to thinning. I'm still very new to it. All I have to go off of is people saying "thin to the consistency of 2% milk". I've started tipping the paint cup until the paint can run quickly back down leaving a thin film. I usually get my best results doing it that way. lol I've been experimenting with IPA, denatured alcohol, and Windex. I read on some other forum (don't worry, I'm not cheating on you guys) where a guy made a mixture of 78% IPA to 22% water and added a few drops of diluted Windex to improve flow and reduce orange peel. I think I'll give this a try.

Keilau, When I use the airbrush at around 20 PSI it takes around 20-30 seconds for the compressor to kick in. It's a small tank... but for $40 it's awesome. And if it craps out I can buy a more expensive compressor and I already have a tank!

Marine Sniper

keilau:

 When you airbrush, you will find the tanks turn on a lot more frequent.

 

Tanks turn on? That's quite a compressor. Sorry Keilau I couldn't resist.

Well!!   

icer22x

It's extremely quiet. If I leave the tank full, I hear the compressor turn on again in about 10 minutes.

Keilau, When I use the airbrush at around 20 PSI it takes around 20-30 seconds for the compressor to kick in. It's a small tank... but for $40 it's awesome. And if it craps out I can buy a more expensive compressor and I already have a tank!

Great to hear that it is quiet and holds pressure for up to 10 minutes. Both are very good. The next important factor is how hot it gets. If the cylinder head does not get hot to the touch, you may have gotten a very good compressor.

When I forced the Paasche DA400 to run continuously for 30 minutes, the compressor cylinder head got warm, but I can keep my hand on it without feeling burnt. A laser thermometer registered 104°F in a 80 degrees basement. In normal use, it hardly gets warm. Your compressor will run hotter because of the smaller compression volume, but should do fine in normal uses.

It is a little surprising that the 0.2mm nozzle of the Velocity will run only 20-30 seconds. Milairjunkie reported 55 second with his 0.2mm H&S. His Revell Master Class Compressor has almost the same spec as yours (tank size, on-off pressures).

I measured 65 seconds with my H&S and 51 seconds with the Badger Chrome, both with 0.2mm nozzle. But I have a larger tank and the compressor runs at higher pressures.

Now, practice, practice and practice with your airbrush. And build some models too. Have fun.

Well I think I might be returning my airbrush for a replacement. Here's the deal:

I'm hoping I this is just stupid user error for a newbie. But the first issue arose when I made a mixture of 91% IPA and distilled water (about a 3:1) and added some Windex. When I shoot this through, my airbrush squirts bubbles between the hold down ring and the main body... no matter how hard I tighten it. I'm afraid that there is a leak right there. The bubbles only happen with that solution though, it's weird... straight Windex doesn't produce bubbles.

Also, it seems like every batch of paint I put through the brush, I have to take it apart and clean the needle because it gets so gunked up. Is this normal? Is paint supposed to be getting on the needle behind the cup - around where the needle bearing is?

I mentioned this on the forum when I first got my brush, but the entire inside of the cylinder is coated with this brown/yellow grime. It was sent like that. I don't know how normal that is... but I can coat a cotton swab with IPA and rub the inside of the airbrush near the back and have the swab be covered in the stuff when I pull it out.

Maybe all this stuff actually is noob mistakes... but it feels like I got sent a used airbrush instead of a new one. :(

Just a quick not to a statement you mentioned earlier about an air leak sound coming from the compressor. In the manual it states that the compressor will.. I wonder if this is what you may be hearing.

Release the air pressure automatically when

the pressure reaches 87 PSI in the air tank.

icer22x

Well I think I might be returning my airbrush for a replacement. Here's the deal:

Maybe all this stuff actually is noob mistakes... but it feels like I got sent a used airbrush instead of a new one. :(

When you took it apart to clean, it became a USED airbrush. Did it have the same problem when first received? Did you follow the instruction to the letter when disassemble and re-assemble the airbrush?

How did you thin the paint? It is not unusual to have tip dry problem when using acrylic paint. It gets worse with a small 0.2mm nozzle like the Velocity.

You may consider request exchanging for the Badger Krome instead? The Krome has a plated inside.  Here is some background of it.

I watched a nice tutorial online about my specific airbrush. I'm pretty sure I reassembled it properly. It didn't come with any instructions save for an exploded diagram of all the parts.

I've been experimenting with thinners. So far I like denatured alcohol. Windex is pretty good too, but I think it does funny things to the Tamiya paint. I'm not a huge fan of it right now. Maybe it'll grow on my.

icer22x

I watched a nice tutorial online about my specific airbrush. I'm pretty sure I reassembled it properly. It didn't come with any instructions save for an exploded diagram of all the parts.

I've been experimenting with thinners. So far I like denatured alcohol. Windex is pretty good too, but I think it does funny things to the Tamiya paint. I'm not a huge fan of it right now. Maybe it'll grow on my.

Check out this Ashley Brayson video.

I'm still here guys... lol

I'm just waiting on Tamiya paint to become available... I haven't been able to spray much without it. :( It seems everywhere is out of stock.

icer22x

I'm still here guys... lol

I'm just waiting on Tamiya paint to become available... I haven't been able to spray much without it. :( It seems everywhere is out of stock.

Does Sprue Borthers have the colors you need?

I just want to say a big "thank you" to all you modelers who have posted the great wealth of info on this thread!  My 10 year old compressor died today, and I needed to get a new one, so I consulted the forum.

The Sparmax TC-2000 sounded like it had all the features I wanted, so I drove two miles to the local Hobby Lobby, they had one, and I had a 40% off coupon!  Saved me $132 and this is a great compressor, as I have determined after a brief test run.

Thanks, all of you, for the guidance!

Chuck

Great news Chuck! I love my Badger Million-Air compressor as well.

$40 Harbor Freight compressor - $100 Iwata HP-CS - Black 7 and Green Heart are airbrushed on - ready for flat coat and final assembly - 'nuff said.

Gary

Cadet Chuck

The Sparmax TC-2000 sounded like it had all the features I wanted, so I drove two miles to the local Hobby Lobby, they had one, and I had a 40% off coupon! Saved me $132 and this is a great compressor, as I have determined after a brief test run.

Chuck

GreenThumb

Great news Chuck! I love my Badger Million-Air compressor as well.

garylee

$40 Harbor Freight compressor - $100 Iwata HP-CS - Black 7 and Green Heart are airbrushed on - ready for flat coat and final assembly - 'nuff said.

Gary

It is hard to argue with Gary when seeing the nice result he could accomplish with his gears.

The Badger Million-Air is "virtually silent" at 30 dB noise. So you can lower the noise by 55 dB with $660 more in spending on compressor.

You can save $160 going with the Silentaire Supersilent 20A which is the same compressor as the Badger Million-Air.

You need to be super noise tolerant to use the $40 Harbor Freight compressor. So the $200 Sparmax TC-2000 is a good middle ground which is quiet enough for indoor use in most family.  

GreenThumb

Great news Chuck! I love my Badger Million-Air compressor as well.

Mike, what happened to your Jun Air compressor?

keilau

GreenThumb:

Great news Chuck! I love my Badger Million-Air compressor as well.

 

Mike, what happened to your Jun Air compressor?

It's sitting in the garage collecting dust.

I keep trying to tell you guys that the Harbor Freight compressor is NOT that bad for noise. I have mine in the basement and you have to get right to the top of the stairs before you can hear it at all. It can't be heard from the living room or bedrooms. The neighbor across the street has a central air conditioning compressor that's much louder than  my cheap little H.F. job. And it performs well, too. From dead empty it takes less than 3 and a half minutes to fill to 100 psi and if I'm not using it I can leave it sit for hours before it comes on again. If I'm using it I can spray for about half a minute before it kicks on, but it doesn't run long at all to refill, even when I'm cleaning the airbrush. About 45 seconmds to one minute refills the 3 gallon tank. But to each his own, right? If you want to spend $600 on a compressor that's your business. I just know that the $560 I saved bought me a whole boatload of really nice kits. Peace.

Gary

garylee

I keep trying to tell you guys that the Harbor Freight compressor is NOT that bad for noise. I have mine in the basement and you have to get right to the top of the stairs before you can hear it at all. It can't be heard from the living room or bedrooms.

I am not sure that I want to leave my compressor in the basement and do airbrushing in the living room or bedroom. I perfer to keep the compressor within reach during modeling. 55-56 dB noise is all I can take when I model in the basement..

 It is just a personal choice.

keilau

I am not sure that I want to leave my compressor in the basement and do airbrushing in the living room or bedroom. I perfer to keep the compressor within reach during modeling. 55-56 dB noise is all I can take when I model in the basement..

 It is just a personal choice.

So, smart alec hampster, eh? I don't airbrush in the bedroom. In fact, here's where I build, and I always love to see what other guys are doing so if anyone else wants to share that would really cool.

And you're absolutley right, it's all a matter of personal choice. What works for me might be horrible for someone else. But to me the whole point of this forum is for us to share information and learn from each other to make ourselves better modelers and help keep our hobby going strong, so when there's a subject that I have some experience with I'll post what I know in the hopes that someone else will benefit from it. I know I've certainly learned boatloads from you guys already so I like to feel I'm giving a little something back.

Gary

I use a small compressor attached to a tank bought from Northern tools. Its exactlly like the harbor freight one and i agree. It runs quiet and is very cost effective and functions quite nicely. I am building a kit right now after a 15 year vacation from modeling and am moving along quite nicely with my vega 2000 and budget compressor :). And i airbrush upstairs in my "man cave" and i do not disturb anyone when the compressor kicks on to fill the tank.  Its about 56db at the most.

kingsleytim

I use a small compressor attached to a tank bought from Northern tools. Its exactlly like the harbor freight one and i agree. It runs quiet and is very cost effective and functions quite nicely. I am building a kit right now after a 15 year vacation from modeling and am moving along quite nicely with my vega 2000 and budget compressor :). And i airbrush upstairs in my "man cave" and i do not disturb anyone when the compressor kicks on to fill the tank.  Its about 56db at the most.

This is what Gary Lee referred to. It is noisy. I would not be able to model next to it.

Northern Tools has several airbrush compressors that are reasonably quiet, such as this one which recently sold out:

You are lucky if you got one of this. There is a huge difference in noise level between the two. They were priced about the same.

The majority of modeler would have perfer a compressor at 55-58 dB noise level. To argue that a noisy compessor is fine just because he/she can tolerate it is ingenious. The whole point of this forum to help people to avoid making that kind of mistake.

That Northern Tools compressor is GREAT. I bought one recently (as most of you know). It's SUPER quiet. Once they get back in stock, I highly recommend it.

keilau

 

kingsleytim:

 

I use a small compressor attached to a tank bought from Northern tools. Its exactlly like the harbor freight one and i agree. It runs quiet and is very cost effective and functions quite nicely. I am building a kit right now after a 15 year vacation from modeling and am moving along quite nicely with my vega 2000 and budget compressor :). And i airbrush upstairs in my "man cave" and i do not disturb anyone when the compressor kicks on to fill the tank.  Its about 56db at the most.

 

 

This is what Gary Lee referred to. It is noisy. I would not be able to model next to it.

 

Northern Tools has several airbrush compressors that are reasonably quiet, such as this one which recently sold out:

 

You are lucky if you got one of this. There is a huge difference in noise level between the two. They were priced about the same.

The majority of modeler would have perfer a compressor at 55-58 dB level. To argue that a noisy compessor is fine just because he/she can tolerate it is ingenious. The whole point of this forum to help people avoid making that kind of mistake.

Just put the compressor in another room or the garage and run a long air hose. I did that for years with a Craftsman 1-1/2 hp 12 gallon tank compressor. You lose very little pressure even with 60' of air hose.

I think i got the last one from northern tools :)

Hey there all,

I just received my compressor from Northern Tools on monday and it is super quiet. I am waiting for some parts on my airbrush before I can use it.

Rchjr

I still believe that the little quiet Northern Tools compressor with 3/4-gallon tank is a much better deal than the Habor Freight one with 3-gallons tank at the same price.

I tested one. The noise is no higher than a typical airbrush compressor from Iwata or Sparmax, but the pitch is slightly higher, just barely. It is not the supersilent type at $600, but you can talk comfortable without raising your voice while airbrushing.

The Northern Tools compressor cylinder head (the part with the vertical heatsink fins) gets as hot as those house brand sold at TCPGlobal. If you leave it running continuously for 30 minutes, it is about 45 degrees F above room temperature. It is quite acceptable since the compressor has auto-on-off and would never run continuously. In normal use, the head will barely get warm to the touch.

The auto switch turns on and off at 45 and 60 psi respectively. These are very good to allow good pressure margin for different paints in most airbrushing jobs, except not quite enough airflow and pressure for T-shirt airbrushing. The airflow was very steady with all of my airbrushes. As usual, with compressor at this price point, your milage may vary.

I did not realize so many of you got this compressor. Please, report back in 6 months and a year. If it still runs strong, you got a hell of a deal. Good luck with your new toy.

Disclaimer: I have no relationship nor know any individual at Northern Tools.

GreenThumb

keilau:

This is what Gary Lee referred to. It is noisy. I would not be able to model next to it.

 Northern Tools has several airbrush compressors that are reasonably quiet, such as this one which recently sold out:

 You are lucky if you got one of this. There is a huge difference in noise level between the two. They were priced about the same.

The majority of modeler would have perfer a compressor at 55-58 dB noise level. To argue that a noisy compessor is fine just because he/she can tolerate it is ingenious. The whole point of this forum to help people avoid making that kind of mistake.

Just put the compressor in another room or the garage and run a long air hose. I did that for years with a Craftsman 1-1/2 hp 12 gallon tank compressor. You lose very little pressure even with 60' of air hose.

We are talking about the cheap compressor solution here. The 60 feet air hose can easily double the $40 cost of the compressor. Besides, it is inconvenient to have to put away the long air hose each time after the modeling session. Few family will accept leaving the air hose stringing around the house all the time.

Most modeler cannot afford the Badger Million-Air compressor you recommended. But they would still perfer to have a compressor that is quiet enough to be in the workbench area and can hear the family when they call. There are many compressor which can fit this bill.

Again, it is a personal perference that how much noise you choose to live with while modeling.

Does anyone know if Northern Tool will re-stock their compressor, or is it gone for good? I still like my H.F. compressor, but after hearing you guys rave about the one from N.T. I just might try it out.

Gary

Reasoned

Quiet operation. Delivers 0 to 40 PSI constant pressure for a quality finish. Works with all airbrushes.

• Auto shut off at 40 PSI, auto-on at 3 PSI
• Adjustable pressure regulator with moisture trap
• Direct hook-up with all airbrushes using universal 1/8"-28 NPS
• Fitting with 1/4" NPT male adapter
• Thermal overload protection with automatic reset
• Rubber suction cup feet for stability
• Built-in carrying handle for maximum portability

Includes 10 ft. coiled air line, Teflon tape, easy-to-read pressure gauge

1/8 HP, 115 volt, 2 amps, 1750 RPM

Overall dimensions: 9-3/4" L x 5-3/8'' W x 9-1/4'' H

Shipping Weight: 8.70 lbs.

 

Why mess with a tank if you don't need to? 

Reasoned

Reasoned:

Quiet operation. Delivers 0 to 40 PSI constant pressure for a quality finish. Works with all airbrushes.

• Auto shut off at 40 PSI, auto-on at 3 PSI
• Adjustable pressure regulator with moisture trap
• Direct hook-up with all airbrushes using universal 1/8"-28 NPS
• Fitting with 1/4" NPT male adapter
• Thermal overload protection with automatic reset
• Rubber suction cup feet for stability
• Built-in carrying handle for maximum portability

Includes 10 ft. coiled air line, Teflon tape, easy-to-read pressure gauge

1/8 HP, 115 volt, 2 amps, 1750 RPM

Overall dimensions: 9-3/4" L x 5-3/8'' W x 9-1/4'' H

Shipping Weight: 8.70 lbs.

 

 Why mess with a tank if you don't need to? 

3 simple reasons:

1. $40 cheaper with the tank. Why pay more for less.
2. More powerful motor and 20 psi higher in pressure margin. Auto at 45 & 60 psi.
3. The tank cannot hurt.

Harbor Freight does have a better airbrush compressor at higher pressure that is equally quiet, closer to the Northern Tools spec. But it is $60 more than NT compressor and still without a tank.

The northern tools compressor was $40 before shipping and tax. And it comes with a 3/4gal tank.

garylee

Does anyone know if Northern Tool will re-stock their compressor, or is it gone for good? I still like my H.F. compressor, but after hearing you guys rave about the one from N.T. I just might try it out.

Gary

Yes, they would. But may not be the same model. And likely to be a different price point. Hopefully, it would be soon because the last log sold so fast.

Last year, they had a twin piston compressor without tank for $69. The recent $40 single piston with tank compressor was gone in a matter of weeks. This one was first sold by them in 2008 at a higher price..Check their product list of compressor at 1 CFM or under now and then, you may come up with a good deal when they restock. There is nothing worth considering for now.

The open question about these cheap offers is their durability.

keilau

 

GreenThumb:

 

Great news Chuck! I love my Badger Million-Air compressor as well.

 

 

Mike, what happened to your Jun Air compressor?

Keilau, this is how my Jun-Air looked when I brought it home. I took everything off of it and connected it to a 5 gallon tank. It's quiet but it's also 220V so I have to use a voltage step up transformer to power it.

GreenThumb

keilau:

GreenThumb:

 Great news Chuck! I love my Badger Million-Air compressor as well.

 Mike, what happened to your Jun Air compressor?

 

Keilau, this is how my Jun-Air looked when I brought it home. I took everything off of it and connected it to a 5 gallon tank. It's quiet but it's also 220V so I have to use a voltage step up transformer to power it.

Mike, yes, I remember your old Jun Air setup well. It was the finished picture of the Jun Air Compressor you posted that inspired me to add a tank to my Paasche DA400. Well, those are all years ago.

In the Aircraft forum, someone posted what he got from a Mexican Hobbymex hobby shop. It is driven by a refrigerator compressor and cost just about $214. That's what a super silent compressor should be.

OK, Fellas, after all that stuff I talked about how great my Harbor Freight compressor is the dang thing went and took a crap on me last night. I heard the note of the compressor change and after that it wouldn't build more than about 30 lbs of pressure. Fortunately that was enough to finish what I was doing and clean the airbrush.

The good news is that this morning I took the compressor back to H.F. and they gave me a brand new one, no questions asked (it was less than 90 days since I bought it).

So laugh at me all you want, I still like my cheap little H.F. compressor. I realize that for those of you that don't have the luxury of having a H.F. store just two miles down the road it might not be so great, but it's still working out fine for me.

Oh yeah, I'm thinking about doing a WIP on this Trumpeter 1/32 Me 262 I just started. Anybody want to see that one go together?

Still waiting for the review of the Northern Tools compressor, Ice. What's the hold up?

Happy modeling, and keep posting those pictures!!

Gary

garylee

Still waiting for the review of the Northern Tools compressor, Ice. What's the hold up?

Happy modeling, and keep posting those pictures!!

Gary

I have a short write-up on the compressor a while back. It will take a bit longer to have any durability report. Or it may not last at all.

Don't worry guys, I'm still here. I'm still familiarizing myself with the compressor and getting more use out of it before I write about it. But as of now, I am very happy with it considering I spent $40. Very very happy.