Compressor Suggestions?

Testror's liquid cement (in the black bottle with the metal tube/tip). I'm pretty careful so there was only a couple small spots where the glue oozed out, but the scraper took both plastic and glue together, and I was kinda impressed by that because this airfix kit is pretty soft. It just curls off a tiny bit at a time. Kinda makes a mess but that's half the fun, right? The tool was eleven or twelve bucks, but now I'm really glad I bought it. I think I'll be using it a lot in the future.

garylee

Hey Icer,

You and I talked briefly the other day about seams, so I thought I'd let you know I bought one of those seam scrapers from Micro-Mark (Item #80801) and I just tried it out on this FW 190. It works great. I used it as a first step and then I just needed a couple passes with a medium and then a fine sanding stick and I do believe with a little primer the seam won't show at all. My little Kodak doesn't have the best resolution, but maybe this will give you some idea.

Looks great! Upon my re-entry into scale modeling, seams kind of frighten me. All the years past before I took a break I just ignored them. But then again I wasn't NEAR as well informed about this hobby as I am today.

Not to stray from the main topic of this thread... haha (I will be posting my review of my compressor here as soon as I get it in the mail) But through my research into seam elimination (correct me if I am wrong!) I found that using a plastic welder cement can be handy. I figure using Tamiya Super Thin works well for smaller seams (as well as an all-around fantastic glue) and something like Tenax for the larger seams. Of course this is accompanied by sanding after it dries. I've also seen people using magic putty (or a similar formula i.e. Miliput) for large gaps. I also found a pretty nifty walk-through of using Mr. Surfacer to block a seam.

I assume there are many ways of going at it. My problem is identifying WHICH method to use at the proper time.

Also, where did you get that seam tool and what is it called? I have a massive list of all the supplies I am ordering. Might as well add this to it. haha

Hey Icer'

The tool is just called "Seam Scraper" and it's item #80801 and you can get it at www.micromark.com  It's on sale right now for $10.85 (list is $18.65). Micromark has lots of cool stuff. I just got another box from them yesterday and it was kinda like Christmas in July. I think the coolest item in this box was the Waldron punch set I finally broke down and bought.

I wouldn't worry too much about going off topic. We've pretty much covered the reason you started the thread and you've ordered your compressor and airbrush so I would say a little general discussion would be OK. But then, I'm new to the forum so if I'm wrong about that I hope one of you veterans will enlighten me. I really, really like this forum so I don't want to do anything taboo.

Like you, i'm just returning to the hobby after a long hiatus (15 years in my case). But even though I haven't been modeling I've been a subscriber to FSM for the last ten years (I get my subscription for three years at a time so I get a really good deal. And don't believe that price in the magazine. If you haggle with them they'll come down some) and the amount of stuff I've learned just from reading the magazine is phenomenal.

As for glue, I'm like you in that I don't always know just which one to use, but I basically use CA for stuff like seatbelts and resin, clear parts cement for canopies and windows, and for styrene to styrene joints I use the old reliable Testor's liquid cement. For small gaps I'll use Zap-a-Gap and for larger gaps it's squadron putty (both green and white) and sometimes regular automotive spot putty. That stuff works surprisingly well and it sands real easily. Sometimes if I want a really strong joint I'll even fall all the way back to good old fashioned tube glue. That's one thing that's really changed while I was away is glue technology. Now I have half a dozen different kinds on the bench, and that's not counting epoxies and fillers.

I'll be looking forward to your review of the new compressor. I'd especially like to know how loud it is compared to the craftsman you took back.

Gary

Thanks for the link to that website. And if anyone is interested, H.F. has a deal right now for a $7 rotary tool with all accessories!

Also just got my Badger Velocity in the mail today. I can't put it down! It feels so good in my hand. I can't wait to get the compressor in and start practicing.

Hey Icer,

I got a coupon for that rotary tool for $6.99 about a month ago. I bought two. It works pretty good, and I like the fact that it's a lot slower than the minimum setting on a dremel. Melting plastic seems to be less of an issue. The seat in the FW 190 kit was smooth and flat and it should have been kind of hollowed out, like a tray (hard to describe without seeing it) and I used the H.F. mototool to to hollow it out to match my reference photos. Worked like a charm, and at that price even if it craps out in a few months it was still a good deal.

Gary

Hey Icer,

Exactly which airbrush did you get? I thought you were getting the 105, but your last post says Velocity. Unless the 105 IS a velocity? I was curious so I went to merriartist and they had two Velocities, the R1V and the R4VJ. Is it one of those? Mainly just curious. I'm looking forward to hearing what you think of it. I'm using the Iwata HP-CS and I really like it, but I'm always looking for new options.

Did you see the airbrush holder I'm using? it's on page three of this thread. I was on squadron.com and I saw the Badger airbrush holder for 26 bucks and had to laugh. Mine cost a dollar.

Oh yeah, I went to H.F. and picked up that 22 piece clamp set you turned me on to. Good find. Just in time, too, as the larger clamps turned out to be just perfect for when I installed the main landing gear on the FW 190. One thing that tripped me out is the size listings. What they call a 1 3/8 clamp in the 22 piece set is exactly the same as the clamp I bought seperately that's marked 1 1/2 and the small clamps are marked one inch and they're exactly the same as the mini clamps, which are marked 7/8 of an inch. Weird.

Gary

Yeah in an earlier post I said I was switching. I got the Badger Velocity R1V instead. There is a YouTube model builder (a member of Scale Model Addict) that uses a Velocity on all of his builds. What sold me was the fact that it has a screw in the back that stops your trigger pull at whichever length you want it at.

And yes I saw your holder! It was great. But I got one of those Iwata cleaning stations with my airbrush and it doubles as a holder, so I was pretty happy about that. Plus it's cheap for what it does. $25 (or around that). And the base is glass - good construction.

My clamps haven't come in yet. :( I'm so anxious to get my compressor in so I can make a good review of both that and my new airbrush. But if you want the channel of that YouTube builder, his user name is SMConsortium. Go watch his stuff. He has a detailed look at the Velocity and also has a 10-part walk through of him building a Tamiya Corsair. I learned a lot from that alone.

P.S. I don't know if any of you have ordered from Northern Tool, but it's been 4 days since I ordered my compressor and they still haven't shipped it. lol Hopefully it goes out tomorrow.

I saw that guy on Youtube building the corsair. He's pretty good, too. Very informative. That stop screw sounds like it's pretty cool. I rarely spray with the brush wide open so that would be great for consistency. I'll be looking forward to your review of the airbrush to see what other cool features it has. I wonder if I could make some kind of stop for my Iwata with a small hose clamp. I'll have to investigate. I doubt that would be all that easy to adjust, but maybe I can figure something out.

Did you have to order the clamps? I thought you had a H.F. store close by? Or were they out of stock and you're waiting for them to arrive at the store? I think you'll like them. The only bad thing about them is they tend to slip off sloped sufaces, like wings, but if you put a strip of masking tape where you want to put the clamp it takes care of the problem. Just don't put the tape under the pad, put it down in a strip so when the clamp starts sliding the tape acts like a stop.

The four days you've been waiting for them to ship your compressor could be worse. I recently placed an order with Roll Models and they waited till AFTER they had my credit card info and the order was placed to tell me it wouldn't ship for two to three WEEKS. I waited over a month for that order and that's why I won't go back to them. They have pretty good prices but I'd rather pay an extra buck or two and get my stuff in a reasonable amount of time. Scalehobbyist.com seems to be about the quickest I've found, and they also have great prices, but Squadron and Micromark are also pretty fast to get your shipment out.

Gary

garylee

I wonder if I could make some kind of stop for my Iwata with a small hose clamp. I'll have to investigate. I doubt that would be all that easy to adjust, but maybe I can figure something out.

Gary

Iwata makes a preset handle add-on for the HP-CS. You can get generic one from BearAir cheap.

icer22x

P.S. I don't know if any of you have ordered from Northern Tool, but it's been 4 days since I ordered my compressor and they still haven't shipped it. lol Hopefully it goes out tomorrow.

You should have received an email from them acknowledging your order. If not, call them.

If you ordered last week, they did anounced earlier that orders would be delayed due to their warehouse or software maintanance or something like that. They will ship mid week this week. Did you see something like that?

Most important, make sure that your credit card is not charged yet until they ship.

Keilau: You da man.  I checked it out and it looks good. Now where'd I put that credit card?

garylee

Keilau: You da man.  I checked it out and it looks good. Now where'd I put that credit card?

It is not my responsbility that you spend money that you shouldn't have.

I did not try this. I have two other airbrush that came with preset, H&S Evolution Silverliner and Badger Krome. Let us know how the handle works out for you.

Gary: The stop screw and fine nozzle are what sold this AB for me. Can't complain about the gunmetal/silver finish either. It's awesome. It's heavy enough to feel very good in your hand. I did take it all apart and noticed the inside of AB has a strange coating on the metal - almost a yellow/copper tarnish. I've seen other videos of this AB and noticed it too... maybe it's normal. It doesn't look like the metal is degrading in any way, just a strange color.

Also, I live in northern Ark. There's nothing up here except a Walmart. Haha If I need anything relating to this hobby, I have to make the hour trip to Little Rock. So everything I buy is offline. I miss my old home in GA - I had about 45 hobby stores around me. lol

Keilau: Thanks man for the info. I received an e-mail from them, but only notifying me that they had gotten my order and that it was processing. Nothing about a delay. Now I know!

Hey Guys,

I was going to do a thread for this question, but I think some of the guys following this one may be able to help me. I've never before tried to decant paint from a spray can to use in my airbrush. Anyone got a tried and true method? Can you please give me a little block of instruction on how to go about it? Just blasting that spray into a little one ounce bottle doesn't seem like a good idea, but maybe that's the only way? I ran out of bottled primer and I can't find it anywhere. I do have model master spray enamel white primer, though. So how do I get it from the can to the airbrush?

garylee

Hey Guys,

I was going to do a thread for this question, but I think some of the guys following this one may be able to help me. I've never before tried to decant paint from a spray can to use in my airbrush. Anyone got a tried and true method? Can you please give me a little block of instruction on how to go about it? Just blasting that spray into a little one ounce bottle doesn't seem like a good idea, but maybe that's the only way? I ran out of bottled primer and I can't find it anywhere. I do have model master spray enamel white primer, though. So how do I get it from the can to the airbrush?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oteliqdTvgw&feature=related

A bit lengthy by the time you have also watched the 2nd part, but describes the process well.

Milairjunkie,

Perfect. Exactly what I needed. I knew you guys would come through. Thank you!!

Milair beat me to it. lol That's a great video.

So was I the only one that hadn't seen that video? It was great, though. I already tried it and it worked like a charm and I now have a bunch of primer ready to use. That reminds me, it's been a half hour so it should be ready to go in the smaller job and get a lid. Thanks again.  

garylee

So was I the only one that hadn't seen that video? It was great, though. I already tried it and it worked like a charm and I now have a bunch of primer ready to use. That reminds me, it's been a half hour so it should be ready to go in the smaller job and get a lid. Thanks again.  

Brett Green's Scale Workshop is an old standby gem. Decanting is # 47 and 48. Check out the others. You have to get use to his British ascent though. Enjoy.

I have used a Thayer and Chandler Air Star V for many years. It's been very reliable. Good pressure control and moisture trap. You can get one at Tower hobbies.

The next time any of you guys see me on here talkin' 'bout what a great deal I got at Harbor Freight, somebody remind me about the $12 airbrush I thought would make a good primer gun. Or better yet, just come over here and slap me.

I was there today and saw there version of an air brush ($20) and opened the box of one of them to see what they looked like. After I saw what it looked like I quickly moved on to what I was going to buy next which was their version of a air brush cleaning bottle. For $10 I thought it was worth it. The air brush was NOT!

Rchjr

Rchjr

I was there today and saw there version of an air brush ($20) and opened the box of one of them to see what they looked like. After I saw what it looked like I quickly moved on to what I was going to buy next which was their version of a air brush cleaning bottle. For $10 I thought it was worth it. The air brush was NOT!

Rchjr

Well, the hose is nice, it came with an adapter to use airbrushes with the small thread (old Testors single action?) and I can always use the airbrush to pinstripe furniture. It doesn't work too bad if you use high pressure and fairly thin paint. Sprays kind of like a rattlecan. I'll know better next time. I still like the H.F. clamps!

Hey guys, I got everything in! Been doing some practice before I make a good review of my compressor and airbrush. I already SLIGHTLY bent the needle wiping a cloth over the front and not being careful!! It still works though (and I have three replacement needles on the way). Talk about a rookie mistake..................................

I am trying to get the thinning down pat. Weird issue though - was wondering if anyone has experienced this with their airbrush. When I am trying to spray a hairline thin paint line, it will work fine for the first few seconds then paint will stop flowing. If I release the needle and pull back again to same length (keeping air flowing the whole time) it starts to work again for another few seconds. This is only when trying to achieve VERY thin lines. I can pull back all the way and watch paint flow until the cup runs out. lol I'm not sure what could cause this...

But with more practice and usage I'll write back about my compressor and airbrush.

Icer22x,

How is the compressor so far? Is it very loud? I am thinking of ordering one as well and curious as to how it is performing.

Thanks,

Rchjr

It's extremely quiet. It works wells for $40. There is a small leak I have to find. If I leave the tank full, I hear the compressor turn on again in about 10 minutes due to the leak. I don't know where it would be. I tightened all the nuts on it, so we'll see. I will post a detailed review once I have gotten used to it.

icer22x

Weird issue though - was wondering if anyone has experienced this with their airbrush. When I am trying to spray a hairline thin paint line, it will work fine for the first few seconds then paint will stop flowing. If I release the needle and pull back again to same length (keeping air flowing the whole time) it starts to work again for another few seconds. This is only when trying to achieve VERY thin lines. I can pull back all the way and watch paint flow until the cup runs out. lol I'm not sure what could cause this...

Sounds very much like tip dry, which is relatively common with acrylic paint, try adding a bit more thinner or adding a flow aid or retarder.

Icer22x,

That is a bummer about the leak, are you going to send it back?

Rchjr

icer22x

It's extremely quiet. It works wells for $40. There is a small leak I have to find. If I leave the tank full, I hear the compressor turn on again in about 10 minutes due to the leak. I don't know where it would be. I tightened all the nuts on it, so we'll see. I will post a detailed review once I have gotten used to it.

If it takes 10 minutes to drop the tank pressure from 60 psi to 45 psi, I will not worry about it. When you airbrush, you will find the motor turns on a lot more frequent.

How long does it take for the compressor to kickin when you hold down the airbrush trigger? (Just blowing dry air.)

keilau

 

When you airbrush, you will find the tanks turn on a lot more frequent.

Tanks turn on? That's quite a compressor. Sorry Keilau I couldn't resist.