Aztek Airbrush

I take it you've try disassembling the actual nozzles? I know Testor says that you should not do it, but some of my paints often seem to dry in there, particularly on the spring.. Nowadays, I always clean the actual needle, the spring and the case of each nozzle I use. It seems to defeat the great selling point of the Aztec, i.e. no need to clean as thouroughly as a 'normal' airbrush, but this process only takes a few seconds.

I also dismantle my Aztec nozzles for cleaning and soak the components overnight in a 35mm film canister full of undiluted isopropyl alcohol (Iuse acrylics exclusively in my airbrush so the alcohol is usually all I need to soak them in)

On the matter of acrylics, in case you use them, the aztec does have special nozzles available for acryilic paints and I'd say they work much better for acrylics than the standard nozzles do.

If I recall correctly, FSM had a special supplement on airbrushing a couple of years back and it detailed the dismantling and cleaning of Aztec nozzles.

When i clean my aztec nozzles i just remove the outside covers.How do you remove the next bit to get at the needle?

Each nozzle has 4 or 5 parts in it: There's the resin outer case, the resin inner case, the spring, the needle and in some cases, a thin grey 'o' ring joint around the outer case.

Towards the base of the whole thing, you'll see where the inner case fits into the outer case (with the tan nozzle that I have, you see clearly the two parts as the resins have different colours, but it's not always the case). Hold both part and pull apart. Strongly! It might be a bit hard the first time, but after that it will be fine. OK, now the outer case can easily be cleaned! The needle/spring unit can also be pulled apart from the inner case. You should feel a bit of resistance - the spring stretching, then giving away. The spring itself is easily removed from around the needle shaft. Be very careful with the needle, it is fragile. Once you've opened up the nozzle once, you will find that the needle/spring can easily come loose, but that's not a problem, as long as you keep the nozzles stored in their little transparent containers between airbrush jobs.

Hope this helps!

Many thanks everyone (particularly djmodels) for the help and suggestions. I have successfully removed half a ton of caked paint from two nozzles. This does defeat the Aztek selling point but I also agree that it is such a simple operation as to be insignificant.

As I spray both enamel and acrylic paints through the same nozzles I had wondered if this was a good idea or if it was best to have dedicated nozzles. Because cleaning is so easy I guess it doesn't really matter.

As Upnorth mentionned, it might be worth for you investing in the acrylic-only kind of nozzles (I think there's two of them)...

As far as I can tell from the "Modeler's Technical Guide", published by Model Master, there are two nozzles suited specifically to acrylics (9342C and 9343C) but both appear to for covering large areas. I have a 9342C but have used it only once and can confirm that it has a wide diameter jet.

I tend to use mostly the grey and tan nozzles on 72nd scale aircraft, which gave me good results (good, to my standard) in the early days. Now that I can clean the little devils perhaps I can improve with a bit of practice.

Thanks again for the help.

I too use an Aztek Airbrush and found out on my own that you had to take it all the way apart to the needle to get it completely clean. I have since decided that I'm using the Aztek as a "trainer". Once I get good enough I plan on buying either a Badger or some other professional model.

I have two Aztek airbrushes that I use for metalizers only. After spraying, I disassemble the nozzles and soak them in metalizer thinner. I have'nt had any problems doing this.

Mark

I use the same method as djmodels which in my opinion is the best way to get the nozzles completely clean.
But here's a little trick I learnt that will save you having to clean your nozzles so often.
While you still have your air turned on, take a can of airbrush cleaner and spray two quick bursts into the paint port. Then spray the same ammount onto the end of the nozzle. Cover the open port and the end of the nozzzle with you fingers and press down on the trigger twice.
When the air is blocked by your finger over the nozzle , the cleaning agent will run around all of the internal parts of the nozzle and airbrush dissolving any paint inside.
Take your fingers away and let some air through and it's done.
Since using this method, I only have to take the nozzles apart once a year now. I hope this helps you out.
Regards,
Darren.

A similar procedure is helpful in cleaning my Badger 150, too. I call it "backflushing". I use Acryl Cleaner for acrylics or lacquer thinner for enamels, and apply a soaked cotton swab to the nozzle after pulling the button back to retract the needle so as not to damage it. I then fire air through the brush which seems to clean all the paint plumbing as well as the inside of the nozzle.

using a diff airbrush sometimes helps, cuz the atomize bbetter

also extended use of the aztek airbrush seems to create complications because of the paint leak behind the nozzle, really fun to clean :)

QUOTE: Originally posted by twistedkrusty using a diff airbrush sometimes helps, cuz the atomize bbetter

listen to this man, he know something some people dont know!!! ie aztek factory

so go with the flow, use a good airbrush, instead of a "$90 plastic build-it-yourself-airbrush-that-requires-$13-nozzles-that-require-replacing-every-paint-job-and-customer-survace-that-is-worse-than-aol"

goe with a "$69-iwata-revolution-airbrush-that-is-almost-like-an-hp-c-but-is-cheaper"

i think i know why aztek airbrushes come with wooden cases: use them once, you will hate them, put them in the case, and never think about your mistake again

The wooden case is so you can chuck the whole thing into the fireplace!!!

I have, in times past, had this problem but since using this cleaning technique I have never had this problem re-occur or had to pull the nozzle assembly apart..

Cleaning Technique

(1) As each color is finished spray the appropriate thinner through the airbrush until the spray is clear, before commencing with new color. A word of warning if you are going to change paint types ie Acrylic to enamel it pays to go through all five steps at this time to prevent the solvents from reacting with each other within the nozzle.

(2) At completion of airbrushing session repeat step 1,

(3) Remove nozzle then clean the mouth of air brush. paint enter ports and rear of nozzle. Replace nozzle into brush.

(4) Spray soapy water through airbrush followed by clean water.

(5) Pass air through airbrush untill there is no sign of spray comming from nozzle.

With the Aztek brush cleaniness is really important.

Tango 1 Intersting technique you described with the airbrush cleaner. Do you recomend any specific brand?

I have two Aztecs. I have never had nor will I ever buy any other. I love them. Although I am just getting started again. I have had my first one since High School I have used it in college for three or four dirfferent classes. I took Design and Pottery and used my Aztecs for both.

As for my current cleaning methods I flush it with Laquer Thinner. I flush around two ounces through every time I change colors. I use the cleaning nozzle wrench and some Q-tips to clean the inside of the brush as well as the inside of the nozzles. I take off the outer shells only. I have to try some of the other ideas mentioned here.

In case you were wondering I have the 3000 and the 470.

I hope that this helps.

I have the 470 also.

Have used it for many years, on many models, and took about 2 months practice to get the paint/thinner ratio just right.
For this I use a syringe that I got from my father, he's diabetic.

Any way, there have only been 2 occasions where I had total blockage of my brush.

First was incorrect mixture. Too thin and it leaked back into the actual body of the brush gumming up the trigger assembly. Required a total strip and clean.

Second was just recently using Alclad II, same again, too thin and leaked back into body. I thought maybe wear and tear had set in, but using my normal acrylic paint mix I had no problem, so go figure.

Eventually I will purchase a Badger or an Iwata, when the boss lets me that is, but till then the Aztek has done, and will continue to do the job.

I do not see myself wanting anything to do with any of those metal airbrushes. I do not want o clean them. I do not do well with the littel pieces. I love the one I have and do not intend to switch.

Those of you who own metal airbrushes: How often do you need to strip them all apart? After ever color? After every session?

I can not see myself willing to spend that kind of time or effort when it isn't neccessary.

QUOTE: Originally posted by jimz66 Those of you who own metal airbrushes: How often do you need to strip them all apart? After ever color? After every session?

I take it apart and clean it thoroughly after every 3 or 4 painting sessions.

Mike

Mike how many colors might you use in an average painting session? That is actually a little less often then I thougt you would have to do.

The asymmetrical spray pattern may be caused by a burr on the needle? If you feel a snag as you gently pull the needle across your finger tip, you have a burr.

Gentle sanding with 1000+ grit sand paper may remove it or you just bought yourself a new nozzle....

From a former, frustrated Aztec user.

Jim

QUOTE: Originally posted by jimz66 Mike how many colors might you use in an average painting session? That is actually a little less often then I thougt you would have to do.

I usually only spray one or two colors each time I paint.
After I am done painting I flush the airbrush out good with thinner, wipe the color cup clean and use a Q-tip with thinner to wipe any paint off that I couldn't get off with a clean paper towel and wipe the outside off. That is about it.
After maybe three or four painting sessions I will break it down and clean the needle off with thinner, clean the tip out with thinner and then relube the needle again with Badger Needle Juice or Medea Super Lube.

Now this is dependant on how much you are painting also as you alluded to.
If I were spraying a lot of paint over a long period of time than I would probably break it down every other time. If I did not use the lube in the airbrush I would probably break it down every time as there is nothing to protect the needle from paint adhesion.

Mike

Ok, a question to the Badger 360 users.

How fine a line can the airbrush spray?

Yes I realise it depends on mix, pressure and experience, but just generally.
I can get the Aztec 470 down to 1 mm, only cause I've had it for so long (experience).

I'm curious to know how good this brush is.

tweety1,

I have a Badger 360 that I just received a few weeks back and I posted some of the results I had with it along with two other Badgers on the forum a while back.
Here is the photo again. I used Model Master Acryl Flat Black for this on a piece of pellon material which is a polyester type material used for practice in T-shirt airbrushing. The small plastic ruler next to the surface is in millimeters.



Mike

[:0][:0][:0][:0]
Ooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!

Me needum 360 big mobs.................................................

Wonder if I can get one in this God forsaken country for under $600 bucks?


"snort"

I doubt it.

Back to nagging for christmas.

kik36: good going, your absolutly right

-Aztek airbrushes are made of plastic, so they dissolve and you buy another one
-aztek airbrushes are cheap, so you can buy many
-aztek airbrushes are MADE to be broken, then bought again. repeat as nessicary
-aztek airbrushes are so bad you use it once, then put it in the case
-aztek airbrushes come in wooden cases so you can throw them in a fire and they will melt and burn
-the nozzles are made only to use once, contrary to popular belief

proper useage of aztek

remove aztek from storage inside case
attempt to use
get frustrated when it jams
put aztek in wood case
throw in fire
buy iwata or badger or t&c
repeat as nessicary

I can get a finer line with my Badger 360 than with my Aztek tan tip. I have trouble with the tan tip not clogging with acrylic paint.

Those acrylic nozzles are pretty much worthless. They aren't really better than the regular nozzles. The only difference is that the tip is exposed for easier cleaning. The only thing you get with the exposed needle is poking yourself with it, and it makes it very easy to damage the tip.