The best glue

I prefer Zap-a-gap's 'Plasti-zap.'  It is a CA formulated for plastics, and it is thicker than tenax.  I can apply it with anything from the tip on the bottle to a toothpick or a small paint brush.

http://www.supergluecorp.com/zap/zap-glues/plasti-zap

I get it at my LHS, but this shows you the product.

Chris

Welcome back to our world!  I was like you when I returned and I only used the tube glue.  Too messy!  Like Killjoy, I use zap-a-gap as my CA for resin and metal PE parts.  I have been using the liquid cement from Testor but recently switched to Tamiya Extra Thin liquid cement because I like its larger base so it won't be spilled again as it has happened to me twice in a year. 

There are so many good choices of glues out there... I have about six or seven different glues at my workspace and all of them serve different purposes. 

Welcome back to the hobby, Tom,

I primarily use 3 glues on any given subject:

Tenax 7R a liquid plastic "welder" for fuse. and wing seams

Model Master liquid cement - thicker than tenax, not as thick as their tube glue, longer working time. Also the bottle has a metal needle applicator built in.

CA - for filling seams and whatnot, get both thin and thick...

It's all a matter of preference. for small parts or sub-assemblies that aren't very visible, I use the dreaded tube glue. As long as you don't let the strings of cement go everywhere, you'll be fine. for large pieces, it depends on the application. And for small fiddly or large and fragile joints, go with superglue, that or even epoxy. For clear parts, I always use either Tacky craft glue, or 5-min epoxy.

For assembling major components like fuselage or wing halves, I use Tenax 7R.  For smaller parts I use either ModelMaster Liquid Cement or CA, depending on the application.  For attaching PE or Resin , I normally use CA (Zap-A-Gap) & occasionally 5min. Epoxy.

Regards,  Rick

Hello,

I use 4 types of Glue on my workbench

1. Tamiya Extra thin cement - I would have to say that this is one of the best glues on the market, it has a (Fine) brush applicator and capillary action draws the glue into seams so that parts can be "welded" together for a good hold without melting the surrounding plastic much at all. - Green Cap

2. Tamiya Cement  - I use this glue for large parts and assemblies, it has a stronger hold than the "Extra thin", however it is more prone to melt detail on the plastic if you apply too much. Like the other type, it comes with a (Medium) brush applicator. - Orange Cap

3. Zap a Gap (Medium C.A.) I use this glue quite a bit, it is good for a quick bond but doesn't melt or weld plastic, however it is still quite strong. I would recommend you purchase Zip Kicker which increases the curing rate upon application. You may also want to invest in some pipettes for those delicate parts.

4. Testors "Window Maker" Clear parts cement - A thin white glue, which dries clear. Essential for canopies and clear parts so that you don't end up with a fogged appearance that can form with the use of C.A. (Superglue) and Solvent cements, as listed above.

I would say these glues should be in everyone's tool box. There are various other brands that you may like to try, but I believe these are the best and most simple to use.

I wish you the best of luck with your kits.

Happy modeling!. :)

...anything made from horses...

Manny!  Haha..wouldn't be a thread without one of your insights!

Chris

Wow, that is all great information.  I really appreciate it.  This site is awsome!

Super glue... 

For aircraft main fuselage and pylon with heavy load. Super glue is god send..  Dry in seconds and strong as rock..  Kits with bad fitting sometime can be cover up with it.

So you guys are talking about good old standard, grocery store, type super-glue or some other modeling brand?

tomgeotech

So you guys are talking about good old standard, grocery store, type super-glue or some other modeling brand?

Any super glue from grocery store will work. After using super glue for my model, my aircraft pylon with weapons load never miss a line...  Landing gear always align properly. Less filling needed too on fuselage.  PE on warship is also easier.

Best of all, I don't need to wait long for glue to dry. 5-10 seconds is all I need and I can get work on other parts soon.

Glues I use:

1.) Plastic: Tamiya Thin or Tamiya Limonene(like their standard glue but lemon scented aka "NO Doom in the Bottle smell").

2.) Resin, PE, etc: Mostly 5-min 2-part epoxy(generic).

I just use the bottles of Testors cement that I can get for $1-2 from the hobby shop. I havn't had problems with it, not to mention, it's cheeper than the bottle Model Master glue with the needle applicator

Having the glue show isn't that big of a problem if you are using the liquid glue, because as long as you don't touch it, the liquid glue won't mar surfaces.

Now, if you have/are using the Testors glue in the tube (the gooey stuff that's about the consistancy of clear toothpaste, and smells like oranges) then that's where your troubble is. That stuff (from my experiance) doesn't hold well, and will ruin the surface of the kit. I would avoid that stuff at all cost.

HSteve

Welcome back to the hobby, Tom,

I primarily use 3 glues on any given subject:

Tenax 7R a liquid plastic "welder" for fuse. and wing seams

Model Master liquid cement - thicker than tenax, not as thick as their tube glue, longer working time. Also the bottle has a metal needle applicator built in.

CA - for filling seams and whatnot, get both thin and thick...

  Yeah....what he said!

You can search all over for all brands, viscosity, yada-yada,

3 types of adhesive should set you up at the start...

I re-started modeling at this forum, & no offence, It's very easy to get overwhelmed by all the input...

My best advice is to start small; I.E:

Pick a subject, be it air, water, or ground...

Get the basic stuff: You know, sandpaper, x-acto knife, etc.

start building your toolbox in stages...

If you find the tools you have don't do the job, investigate new avenues, so to speak...

You'd be surprised at what you can find around the house to further your modeling...

Adhesives are like any other tool we use to build: play around with some suggestions, find what works best for you...

Remember, IT'S A HOBBY! it's supposed to take our minds off of what our minds are pre-occupied with, not an addition to your current stress level.

Get  the basics in this thread, play around with the stuff you bought, then build on your tool collection as needed...No need to go out & buy all the toys available...All the tools , jigs, etc. only work if you use them; you'll find a lot of suggestions, a bunch of them are great...Don't go nuts with the $200 "thing" that someone claims you have to have...

Hope that helped, 

One CA I really don't like is that stuff in the little black tubes that you can get 3 or 4 in a pack.

If I could ask a question without hijacking...

How does Tamiya Thin compare with Tenex?

Tony

Forgot one other CA is use is the Wave BLACK CA, it is a rubberized CA. and can be cut and sanded easier than the standard one.

While we are still sniffing glue, have you guys tried this super glue from Gorilla?  I am starting to like it... quick dry time and less messy.  It hasn't dried up inside the glue tube after many uses.  And it wasn't expensive as I think I bought it for only $5 or $6 at Lowe's and it is becoming available in many stores nowadays. 

I also like this, especially for gap filling, or setting something on a base.  It's very thick.  My only issue is that the nozzle on the bottle is a bit cumbersome.  Otherwise, great stuff!

Chris

I keep five glues at my modeling bench.

For large plastic seams (fuselage halves, for instance) I use the Tenex.

For smaller parts I use CA, regular thin for parts that fit very well, gel CA for ones with poor fit.

Micro Glaze, for small window openings.  While its primary use is to make very small wndows, it is also great for gluing in clear plastic windows. It will not craze plastic like Tenex or tube cement, nor fog plastic like CA.

Finally, epoxy, for joints that will really have a lot of stress on them.  Also for windows where more stress is needed than what the Micro Glaze provides.  The later is not a very strong bond- okay for some things but not others.  Epoxy provides lots of strength but will also not craze or fog clear plastics.

Agree with Chris a.k.a. Killjoy about Gorilla super glue.  I put some glue on a toothpick first before I apply it into tiny or tight places.  It seems to work out great too since it is controllable.

Ok, now for a rookie question,  I keep seeing people use the term "CA".....what does that stand for other than the state of California?  haha.

tomgeotech

Ok, now for a rookie question,  I keep seeing people use the term "CA".....what does that stand for other than the state of California?  haha.

Short answer: Superglue

Long answer: Cronoacellate Adhesive (I think that's how it's spelled)

Sort of boring answer: CA is the abbreviation of Cronoacellate Adhesive, which is the long and technical name of Superglue.

Funny answer: California, U.S.A.

Railfan 233

Long answer: Cronoacellate Adhesive (I think that's how it's spelled)

Sort of boring answer: CA is the abbreviation of Cronoacellate Adhesive, which is the long and technical name of Superglue.

Try Cyanoacrylate.  That is what CA stands for.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

Chris

That's how it's spelled? No wonder why a Google search didn't turn up anything...

Yeah, generally for a search-engine to help you must be within a 4 digit grid coordinate of the target!

Chris

Yeah, I'm not too sure, Killjoy.

 I did a Google search for Chuck Norris, and it came back with a message saying "We're sorry, but we refuse to search for Chuck Norris, because we know that you don't find Chuck Norris, He finds You."

O.K., back to the subject: Glue...

Sooo.... with testors liquid cement do you put the two pieces together first and then apply with a brush like the above mentioned volatile stuff  (hot weld type) , or do you apply the cement to one half and then put the pieces together?