CA question

Yes, it will work.. Use very small amounts, as it can create a white "fog" on the part. I use 5 minute epoxy, and sometimes clear enamel for pe, depending on where is is going, and on occasion, super glue.
Lee

Try the Zap a Gap CA glue. It comes in different thickness. The thicker the longer the drying time.... My favorite hobby shop, King's here in Austin. Said their most popular is the medium thickness.
Good Luck and Have fun

Actually the name, "Zap-A-Gap" refers to the CA+ medium version of their glue in the green label and not the brand name. The brand name is Zap and they make many different versions as was mentioned.

Mike

Personally I use both the Pink Zap and Green.

With the pe, the pink is used mostly on my bench due to it's extremely thin water like consistency, if too much is placed onto an item, it can be wicked away with a piece of paper towel.
I find the Green useful on pe parts such as small 'boxes', or even crosshairs where you need a little more 'hold' at the base, but I dont find it too useful for items such as seatbelt sashes, or attaching panels to flat surfaces due to it being 'thicker'.

The pink is also useful for joining fuselage halves, or tank hulls, where the fit is not quite 'spot on', this stuff will flow along the join and hold it in place perfectly giving you time to place your normal plastic glue where it's needed.

Good points Tweety1.
I also have the pink label Zap and like it for some things, but find it more difficult to work with because it is so thin. Gluing one's own fingers is common with that stuff as it is like water.

Mike

Your right on the fingers part.
When I first tried it I didnt buy the debonder.

I now know the debonder is an ESSENTIAL part of the Zap process

Actually, fingernail polish remover or acetone will unglue your fingers from CA.

Mike

True, it will separate your fingers, but you can't use it for removing CA glued items from styrene, and if your fingers are glued to the styrene item, then you need the debonder.

That is true.

Mike