Food Dehydrator for paint drying

I never sanded Vallejo Primer,but I have successfully used their Dunkelgelb Primer as a base coat with Tamiya sprayed over it for the other colors in a Tri-Tone Camo.

Tojo72

I never sanded Vallejo Primer,but I have successfully used their Dunkelgelb Primer as a base coat with Tamiya sprayed over it for the other colors in a Tri-Tone Camo.

 

There's a good idea. As I said, I don't use it, but I do love the finish, detail enhancement, and self leveling.

Tojo72

I never sanded Vallejo Primer,but I have successfully used their Dunkelgelb Primer as a base coat with Tamiya sprayed over it for the other colors in a Tri-Tone Camo.

 

Note worthy info, thanks for that !

Eaglecash867

 

 

Greg

I have decided that waiting for paint to dry is a real fun-killer for me in this hobby. I'm already using MRP and that's sort of why I got the dehydrator, having lost my patience waiting for everything else! That said, your message recieved, and you are right.

 

 

I still have an Oster toaster oven that I bought a few years ago to use as a drying booth since we use one at work for the same thing on small parts that we paint.  Shortly after buying it, I tried MRP...the toaster oven is still pretty much brand new...never used it.  Wish I had been able to mix some MRP to make the corrogard paint I just airbrushed onto my F-4B wing leading edges last week, but I had to use Model Master enamels for that because I'll be brush painting the leading edges of the engine intakes with it.  If I could have done that, I wouldn't have had to wait a week for the Model Master paint to fully cure. 

 

A week for Model Master enamel to dry? I'm working on a 1/32 Dora commission and I shot the Model Master paint yesterday and masked today, removed the masking tape after painting and no lifting issues. 
I have masked Tamiya paints within the hour of spraying with no lifting when the tape was pulled. 

Maybe it's the hot Florida temperature that helps?

plasticjunkie

A week for Model Master enamel to dry? I'm working on a 1/32 Dora commission and I shot the Model Master paint yesterday and masked today, removed the masking tape after painting and no lifting issues.  I have masked Tamiya paints within the hour of spraying with no lifting when the tape was pulled.  Maybe it's the hot Florida temperature that helps?

I'm talking about the amount of time it takes before you can do prolonged handling in one spot without burning fingerprints into the paint.    Masking hasn't really been much of an issue, just the burn-in problem with fingerprints on the Testors enamels.

Its been hot here lately, and its always dry and high.  Doesn't seem to help with the burn-in problem.

Are you using lacquer thinner or paint thinner with your Model Master paints, PJ?  I'm using paint thinner at the moment, so maybe that's the difference?  I suppose I could use lacquer thinner to thin it for the airbrush and try that.  Still want to use paint thinner when I brush paint it though.  One of the cool things about doing that over the MRP paint is that I get no lifting/mixing of the MRP when I put Testors on top of it, and I can completely remove errant paint with the paint thinner without doing any damage to the MRP underneath.  I was actually able to paint some Testors flat yellow stripes right over the black MRP paint on the side handles on my Martin Baker Mk. H5 ejection seats that I just finished today.  Never been successful at hand painting a bright, light color over black before.

Eagle I use Testors enamel thinner (red can) and after that runs out I have some aritst paint thinner I got from Hobby Lobby or I can use LT. 

I have NEVER had enamel paint lift only acrylics like Acryl and Vallejo. Those will not lift if sprayed over enamel or lacquer.