Glues in general

In my experience with wood and CA, the wood bonding surface should be saturated with the adhesive and allowed to cure completely first -- which is usually fairly quick on a porous material like wood -- and only then should the bonding to another surface or dissimilar material be done.

Don't know the exact chemistry behind it, but it's seemed to work consistently over the years.

But note: if you are, say, gluing narrow frame ends to narrow frame ends (i.e., joints), you are playing right into CA's greatest weakness, which is generally poor shear strength. It won't take much angular pressure to break a bond like that unless something like a pin is used to strengthen that connection.

You might need to add additional, mechanical support to the joints you're trying to make by drilling holes, adding metal rods, etc.

Any pictures of what you're specifically trying to accomplish?  That might help people throw some ideas out there for you to try.

What wood glue are you using?   Many of the woodworking Youtubes and DYI shows tout the use of carpenter's yellow wood glue.   Properly applied and allowed to dry (overnight or longer) in clamps results in a bond that is often stronger than the wood itself -- with the wood breaking before the joint.   

Cautions are presented about gluing end-grain.    Mechanical fasteners to augment the joint are often used (nails, screws, dowels, finger joints, etc,)   The presenter notes that these are often used to maintain stability until the glue dries,

There are some applications I've seen where they use gel CA with a spray accelerator in addition to the carpenter's glue.   The CA stabilizes the joint until the wood glue dries.

CA glue by itself is good in tension -- where the joint pulls directly apart.   CA is poor in shear strength -- joints where the parts slide.

Gorilla wood glue is great, works well on end-grains.   But because the glue foams as it cures it pushes unsecured joints apart while curing.   Clamping the parts is a necessity

EdGrune

What wood glue are you using?   Many of the woodworking Youtubes and DYI shows tout the use of carpenter's yellow wood glue.   Properly applied and allowed to dry (overnight or longer) in clamps results in a bond that is often stronger than the wood itself -- with the wood breaking before the joint.   

Cautions are presented about gluing end-grain.    Mechanical fasteners to augment the joint are often used (nails, screws, dowels, finger joints, etc,)   The presenter notes that these are often used to maintain stability until the glue dries,

There are some applications I've seen where they use gel CA with a spray accelerator in addition to the carpenter's glue.   The CA stabilizes the joint until the wood glue dries.

CA glue by itself is good in tension -- where the joint pulls directly apart.   CA is poor in shear strength -- joints where the parts slide.

Gorilla wood glue is great, works well on end-grains.   But because the glue foams as it cures it pushes unsecured joints apart while curing.   Clamping the parts is a necessity

 

 

 

I find it is really necessary when using CA on wood to use a good gel version.  I like Locktite's gel CA.  I also use the yellow carpenters glue for wood.