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Almost all the time---99% of the time? Even vehicles that were known to have a certain characteristic finish--I'll just follow a general "clouds" or "squiggles" pattern. I can't honestly remember one that I've actually ever followed from a template.
I have done both free hand and patterns using Tamiya tape. The best technique so far has been of all things silly putty. It is very easy to use.
i think don is right about mixing the 2. i freehand my german ww2 artillery and FLAK based on the colors that would be available, the theater and season, and the probable emplacement. so i do dark yellow with narrow green and brown verticle stripes if i think i will be in a farm field, broad swipes if generally deployed.
for modern armor and warwheels i follow the pattern closely but will adjust it fo masking over some parts. i like having different color road wheels and tire wheels if they blend in with the pattern (BUT NOT MULTI-COLOR WHEELS). some modern stuff uses variations of the MERDC 3 and 4 color patterns, desert, forest, winter. maybe an urban in a digital in the future. the PLA has some interesting colors.
Никто не Забыт (No one is Forgotten)Ничто не Забыто (Nothing is Forgotten)
Nathan, thanks for setting straight the mottle question.
Is it known if a diagram was followed for the mottle placement, was it done freehand, or were there individual templates made at the different factories?
regards,
Jack
jgeratic As far as I know, WW2 Luftwaffe aircraft splinter camou was applied at the factory . The splotches/mottling was added later in the field - am I right or wrong here? White washes on aircraft definitely would be hand applied in the field.
As far as I know, WW2 Luftwaffe aircraft splinter camou was applied at the factory . The splotches/mottling was added later in the field - am I right or wrong here? White washes on aircraft definitely would be hand applied in the field.
Later on, Mottling was applied right at the factory. Mottles varied according to the plant, ie. Erla vs. Regensburg... Even sub assemblies, such as tails and rudders, were all painted up and mottle applied before being installed on the a/c. Late war 262s and 109ks with the tight edged mottled tails are good examples. Lots of pics out there of this. Field applied mottles were pretty popular during BOB era.
I try and stay true to the original but one problem I have is that WWII photos in B & W are difficult to determine shading. Late war German armor generally has three colors, but are they light or dark? I see museum shots where the shading is light where these B & W photos almost always show a darker shade. I guess research is the key but as a builder, I think we should never lose our artistic liberties.
If I were to build something that's hypothetical or was never released such as a Luft 46 model, then I'm on my own and "wing it" (no pun intended!). If it's an actual aircraft that flew and I wish to build that particular aircraft let's say like ummm.....an Fw190 A8/R2 "Yellow 8" that was flown by Fredrick Karl Frank of JG4 then I don't "wing it". I then make every attempt to stay within the boundaries of the camo patterns, colors , markings and anything else I can adhere to in order to represent the aircraft "the way it was". Any model has a story and why not give it all the story it deserves. To me I'm not just replicating a plane, I'm replicating history, but that's just me.......................................................and my
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I dont do freelance, as I really don't do "what if's?". I try to keep my kits withing as best a historical context as I can. Now occasionally you will read of something and find no reference online, and then you go with what you can- that is the closest I will get with freelancing it.
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I try and stick to the scheme as closely as possible. If I can, I will get photo's and colour plates of the real thing. They will often vary, and while photo's are of course the best source, WW2 pics are usually B&W so not always easy to tell.
For what if scheme, that's the chance to have a bit more fun.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
Most WW2 American aircraft had a single top colour, no two tone camou. Only exception would be the AVG fighting in China (their camou was factory applied as the P-40's were intended for lend lease and were painted to British specifications utilizing US paint shades approximated to those of the RAF). US also used duel camou in North Africa, but I haven't researched the particulars - anyone?
I think there are some instances of field applied camou to US metal coloured aircraft based in England, but that is about it.
If you are good with the airbrush, you can freehand camou and achieve an acceptable edge that looks in scale. Otherwise, a great build can be ruined by having too wide of an over spray.
I don't freelance at all
I have more markings schemes than plastic models, and photos of almost every aircraft I intend to build, and one of my display goals is to show off some of the variations from the standards and patterns that existed for real,,,,,,,,,unfortunately, it takes more references to build the variations than it does to paint the standard stuff
Rex
almost gone
That's right, I was meaning freelance as in doing your own camo color scheme and pattern and not necessarily going with the actual historical ones. Although like was mentioned, with the German planes, they seemed such a hodgepodge that you could do almost anything. Although it seems colorwise they are mainly various shades of gray.
Winter or what-if schemes are the only ones I'd freelance...otherwise I follow the real pattern.
Seems like we are mixing free-lance and free-hand here. Free-hand is obviously a method for applying or painting the camouflage colors. I think most people talking about free-lancing are talking about the design, ie., official patterns vs field-applied patterns, like many winter schemes.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
I airbrush freehand most of the time, but I am following a specific pattern. Even the Luftwaffe had specific camo patterns. Just look at your refs and start airbrushing. No reason not to follow the pattern.
some units have a specific camo pattern,but I mostly freehand
Depends on the prototype, I tend to go with the suggested scheme on the box, or from photographic evidence.
WW2 British planes had specific schemes, which were closely adhered to, being factory applied.
There are pics & other evidence of large rubber mats being applied (like we modelers would use vinyl masks) to spray the camo, and others I've seen documenting 'A' & 'B' schemes (mirrored) for early fighters.
British Armour & MT camo was also factory applied, but all schemes would show minor variations, or mud & whitewash? as you like it....
Now, some GERMAN Planes look like they've been sneezed on,
& late war German armour? anything you like, (just watch out for the pigment Politzei)
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Are you looking for advice for a specific camo or just in general?
When painting MERDC or NATOflauge, I use the US ARmy's painting Tewch Manual or Tech Bulletin. For WWII German I will freelance or ad lib it.
Greg H
"There is many a boy here today who looks on war as all glory, but, boys, it is all hell." Gen. Wm T. Sherman (11 April 1880, Columbus, Ohio)
For clarification, what I was wondering is when painting camo schemes on a model, how often do you just freelance it and do your own as opposed to following as close to accurate historical pattern?
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