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Gunze also has a lacquer line, which is the Mr. Color series, or "C" series.
Yes they are acrylics.
"Gunze or Tamiya white"
Are those acrylics? I am going to check them out!
I never did have problems with Gunze or Tamiya white. Takes 2 or 3 thin coats max to cover, heck they even didn't need a primer. Use those brands and you won't have issues.
Enamel and I never did get along well. I hated its wait times and thick application. Acrylic and Lacquer are good friends of mine though.
Boeing Build - June 15 2015 Mustang Build - Feb 1 2015 Artillery Build - April 16 2015
Boeing Build - June 15 2015
Mustang Build - Feb 1 2015
Artillery Build - April 16 2015
Mike F6F Another vote for Tamiya primer and a clear coat.
Another vote for Tamiya primer and a clear coat.
Can't go wrong with Tamiya White primer and clear, or even a coat of Tamiya Gloss over that. Works like a charm, covers like a woolen blanket. Without the fuzz...
I stick mainly to acrylics. A white primer followed by a white acrylic followed by Future (straight from the bottle) does the trick for me. If you build up the coats of Future slowly over the white acrylic it will get as glossy as you want.
Jim
Main WIP:
On the Bench: Artesania Latina (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II
I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.
I have to echo-- I'd have gone with a rattle can white primer and a gloss coat.
Mike
"Grumman on a Navy Airplane is like Sterling on Silver."
I use enamel paint, either Humbrol or Model Master, for 99% of my modeling. I love it! I've never noticed any problems with drying time. Maybe I'm just slow builder...maybe hell, I am a slow builder!.
Gary
"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"
I find gloss enamels need to be thinned a little thinner than flats. Getting a real good gloss is an exercise in brinkmanship. One needs to bring the last coat right up to the point just before it runs- that is, really wet. How do you know when it is about to run? Experience- that is the only way. I think practicing on scrap is more important with gloss paint than with flats.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
I love the smell of paint fumes in the morning. It smells of....modeling.
I too like using acrylics now but still have some enamels on hand. Was doing touch up's using MM Insignia White on my A-7 a couple hours ago. Later and for the life of me, I can't remember how I got white paint in my hair on the top of my head.
On the bench: So many hanger queens.
Flat white primer/tooth coat followed by a gloss white top coat. Enamel or acrylic, it works fine for me. But seriously, Humbrol enamels are usually my first choice, if I have a choice for any particular color.
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
Hasn't been the same since they took the lead out....
I agree with GMorrison. Try white primer. Two colors are notorious for not covering well - white and yellow. If you use white primer for both, you'll get better results.
I'm a fan of rattle can white primer for all my white needs. I'll cover it with a gloss or flat lacquer as needed.
It's very rare for me to use enamels. They just take so damn long to dry. Although lately I have taken to thinning them with lacquer to speed drying. Worked ok on a couple test shots. Still.....
edit: I forgot to specify that I use Testors white primer lacquer. They make primers in lacquer base and enamel base, and as already stated, I avoid enamels like the plague.
"Some say the alien didn't die in the crash. It survived and drank whiskey and played poker with the locals 'til the Texas Rangers caught wind of it and shot it dead."
I've never met a white acrylic I liked. Never enough coverage and so thin it's uneven. If you have one, making it gloss is easy with a clear coat.
Testor's white enamel in the square bottle is pretty much all of the things you describe, but it DOES cover.
Another approach is white primer, like Tamiya Fine, with a clear gloss overcoat.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
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