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Washing Sprues

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  • Member since
    January 2015
Washing Sprues
Posted by Moff on Friday, January 1, 2016 1:07 PM

I feel like I've asked this before, but does anyone wash their model sprues before assembly?

"Gaiety is the most outstanding feature of the Soviet Union." - Josef Stalin 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, January 1, 2016 1:22 PM

Nope, not plastic. I do wash resin as i have had problems with painting, but i have never washed a plastic kit.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Friday, January 1, 2016 1:27 PM

I do, if they feel greasy. The Kitty Hawk XF5U-1 is one of those.  I found that Purple Power is a great lazy man's sprue cleaner- just pour some into a container, dump the sprues in for a few hours, rinse with water, a little scrubbing with a toothbrush in the nooks and crannies, and air dry. Wear gloves, as PP will cause burns.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Friday, January 1, 2016 1:30 PM

Have taken to it.  Have issues with paint peeling when masking.  Might be on bare plastic of finger oils with MM acrylics..  Most likely my fault in any case.  Might have to start using primer and a light wash just prior to paint.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Friday, January 1, 2016 1:47 PM

No,I have not found it necessary,nor have I experienced problems from not doing so.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Far Northern CA
Posted by mrmike on Friday, January 1, 2016 1:53 PM

I like to wash the sprues with a small amount of dish soap, rinsed thoroughly and patted dry. It puts my mind at ease about mold release or other factory residue, and more important, it's an opportunity to examine the kit piece by piece. Kind of a modelling "zen" state, a chance to really look things over before before the first cuts. Besides, it's the most fun a person can have with an old toothbrush.

Happy New Year!

Mike

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, January 1, 2016 2:07 PM

No. But I do wipe down the assembled model before painting, a real must.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: Lancaster, South Carolina
Posted by Devil Dawg on Friday, January 1, 2016 4:11 PM

I have washed the parts once or twice in the past, but have found that it isn't necessary. All the handling of the parts during assembly will put all kinds of skin oils and fingerprints on them anyway, so I don't bother with the preliminary washing. Once the model is ready for paint, I wipe it and the unattached parts with denatured alcohol, let it dry a few minutes, then paint. Never a problem with that technique.

Devil Dawg

On The Bench: Tamiya 1/32nd Mitsubishi A6M5 Model 52 Zeke For Japanese Group Build

Build one at a time? Hah! That'll be the day!!

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Friday, January 1, 2016 6:40 PM

I do out of habit.

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: State of Mississippi. State motto: Virtute et armis (By valor and arms)
Posted by mississippivol on Friday, January 1, 2016 6:44 PM
I haven't done so in a long time, and there's never been an issue. I use enamels mostly, which may mitigate any problems the mold release may present
  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: providence ,r.i.
Posted by templar1099 on Saturday, January 2, 2016 4:08 AM

Every general introduction to this hobby that I've read recommends at least a wash in detergent, and so always have. Will wipe down all possible parts before painting, in addition.

"le plaisir delicieux et toujours nouveau d'une occupation inutile"

GAF
  • Member since
    June 2012
  • From: Anniston, AL
Posted by GAF on Saturday, January 2, 2016 4:29 AM

I think I must be doing something wrong.  Every time I wash my sprues, I loose parts in the "spin cycle".  Smile Dots

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Saturday, January 2, 2016 7:46 AM

Before assembly?

No, it's completely unnecessary until you are in the painting phase, and then again, most modern Armor manufacturers are putting out pretty clean kits these days. The only models I wash are car models because most of the molds are pretty old and gloss paint is so notoriously finicky with adhesion issues. If you prime your models, washing isn't necessary at all unless you're eating greasy fries while assembly.

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by hypertex on Saturday, January 2, 2016 8:29 AM

I see no point in washing the sprues before assembly. I handle the parts with my greasy mitts during assembly, so I'd have to wash it a second time before painting. Why wash it twice?

Of course, there are ocassional exceptions. Like the time I spilt diet soda all over an open kit.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, January 2, 2016 8:42 AM

One of the advantages of belonging to a club, or participating in online forums, is that I frequently get warnings of kits with excessive parting agents or other contamination of the plastic.  Styrene kit mfgs have gotten very good about giving us contamination-free kits these days, and I have gotten out of the habit of washing all kits.  I still get bit occasionally if I am the first one I know to build a certain kit.  I find contamination to be more of a problem on less popular brands from Eastern Europe.  I have had very little problems lately, and have been warned about some kits.  I did have one problem that caught me by surprise, but that was an old kit I bought from a guy who had it in his stash for years, an old AMT sci-fi kit.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Saturday, January 2, 2016 8:49 AM

Years ago I thought the makers used some sort of mold release, it seemed to me that I sometimes saw/felt a light greasy sense of the parts. Then I did wash the parts while still in the sprues, not a big expenditure of time, so out of habit I continue now. Likely overkill, but what the heck.

As I handle the parts during construction, I keep a small sponge dampened with alcohol on the bench and frequently wipe my fingers on it, just to avoid contamination. That's especially true for the big bits, fuselage, wing halves, tail surfaces and canopy.

What is a definate must is like the others said, a good wipe down of external surfaces prior to primer and paint. I use alcohol, not sure if branded Plastic Prep is still around, I don't find it at my LHS, seemed like good stuff.

Patrick

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, January 2, 2016 8:54 AM

Bish

Nope, not plastic. I do wash resin as i have had problems with painting, but i have never washed a plastic kit.

 

Same here. I always wash my hands prior to handling the plastic and keep a wipes container on the bench just in case.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, January 2, 2016 9:35 AM
I always wash the sprues in water with a little dish soap added, then rinse. I keep two designated plastic dishpans for this. I also wash the pieces again, after I get them cleaned up to remove sanding dust. Major assemblies (like fuselage-wing assemblies) get wiped down with window cleaner before painting. I did have problems years ago with paint lifting along with the masks, so I got in the habit of doing this all the time. If it can't hurt, it may help.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Saturday, January 2, 2016 10:18 AM

Moff

I feel like I've asked this before, but does anyone wash their model sprues before assembly?

 

 
This was absolutely required once. I was building the ICM (Alanger) IT-28 kit and it had a coating of hardened grease agent on the sprues right out of the factory sealed bags. 
 
Not mine but looked exactly like this:
 
Dishwashing detergent did not work on this fly-catching-weather-proofing agent so I dunked each sprue into denatured alcohol and then agitated vigerously for about a minute each. 
Sprueone
 
I do this now with all vinyl tracks before primer coat, just to be sure. 
 
 

 

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, January 2, 2016 10:29 AM

One of the biggest freakin' failure modes I ever pulled off. Washed a big PE fret in alcohol, then wiped it with a cloth.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Saturday, January 2, 2016 10:46 AM

That must have been like trying to wipe dry a spool of barbed wire.

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, January 2, 2016 12:24 PM

Yep, except in this case the barbed wire didn't win...

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Saturday, January 2, 2016 12:44 PM

If I'm gonna plan on getting a "wet look" on an automotive build you can bet your   I do!

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    January 2016
Posted by PanzerCommander on Saturday, January 2, 2016 6:50 PM

GMorrison

No. But I do wipe down the assembled model before painting, a real must.

 

GMorrison

No. But I do wipe down the assembled model before painting, a real must.

 

I like your Buck Turgeson icon :)

 

John McLaughlin

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by Moff on Sunday, January 3, 2016 8:35 AM

Well, I ended up not washing the sprues, since there wasn't really anything visible to me.

"Gaiety is the most outstanding feature of the Soviet Union." - Josef Stalin 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Sunday, January 3, 2016 7:57 PM

Like Sprue said , if it's an ICM kit, you better wash it in gasoline...

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: N. Georgia
Posted by Jester75 on Sunday, January 3, 2016 8:06 PM

Never done it myself but I can for sure say that I have built one kit that made me regret not washing the sprue. That was a RoG S-100 Schnellboot. The skull cap apparently had a fair amount of mold release agent on it which caused huge patches of it to pull up later when I was doing some masking. 

Eric

 

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Monday, January 4, 2016 11:03 PM

Nathan T

Like Sprue said , if it's an ICM kit, you better wash it in gasoline...

 

 

Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    February 2007
Posted by mitsdude on Tuesday, January 5, 2016 12:44 AM

Small parts generally not.

Larger parts yes. Like car bodies, wings/fuselage, space/star ship, etc. I wash not for the mold release that may or may not be there but more for the handling, sanding, puttying, gluing that I do in the building of the model.

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by Moff on Tuesday, January 5, 2016 7:33 AM

I've never had any problems associated with hand oils on my models. I wash my hand obsessively before touching my model, and I wear gloves during the painting and weathering phase. What kind of problems are you likely to encounter with hand oils though?

"Gaiety is the most outstanding feature of the Soviet Union." - Josef Stalin 

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