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Show your Revell/Monogram builds

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  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by wazovski on Thursday, February 28, 2013 10:43 AM

Hi guys! I'm an  italian modeller ( sorry for my bad english ), and after 30 years of inactivity, I restart to modelling ( yeah!!). The last model I assembled/painted when I was sixteen, was a B-24 Liberator 1:48, but I don't own it anymore because some years ago my nephew broken it :(  So I decided to restart with the same model.

Here it is.

P.S. It is painted with brush because I don't have an airbrush. Just for fun I made some b/w pics, but if you interested I can post colored ones. CIAO!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Chambersburg, Pa.
Posted by Bob H. on Wednesday, February 27, 2013 3:35 PM

The 104 looks great.                                                        Bob

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Hancock, Me USA
Posted by p38jl on Wednesday, February 27, 2013 9:45 AM

oops..

[Photobucket]

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Brunswick, Ohio
Posted by Buckeye on Wednesday, February 27, 2013 9:06 AM

Excellent build!!

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by Softscience on Wednesday, February 27, 2013 6:24 AM

Wow! Beautiful work Oortiz!

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Between LA and OC, SoCal
Posted by oortiz10 on Tuesday, February 26, 2013 11:31 PM

Heck, I totally forgot about this thread!  For those of you that missed it, here's my F-104.

This is the "Tour of Duty" boxing that I bought this kit from a fellow on another modeling board.  I bought it figuring it'd be a great way to practice some scribing and NMF techniques.

 Let's take a look, shall we?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for lookin'!

-O

-It's Omar, but they call me "O".

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Chambersburg, Pa.
Posted by Bob H. on Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:34 PM

That Bird looks really good. I have the same kit. It looks like you used the kit decals. I would like to build a WWII U.S. Navy Yellow Trainer version but I don't know how to come up with a good photo and the appropriate decals. I do have a variety of the WWII stars and bars in different sizes. I just need to locate the different size block letters and numbers. The Trainer that I build will have to be the same variant as the kit, not one of the very early T-6's. Once again, yours looks nicely done. I'm looking forward to seeing the others that you have.                                                    Bob

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by Softscience on Tuesday, February 26, 2013 8:50 PM

I'm not going to flood the thread with all my Monogram builds all at once, but here is the most recent, the T-6 built from the recent re-boxing by Revell. I am overjoyed that Revell has taken on the mantle of releasing a lot of these classics.

more to come.

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Thursday, November 22, 2012 4:11 PM

I've had very good luck with old decals by using Microscale Liquid Decal Film. You hand brush it onto the decals you want. Also use to coat decals you might try to make. Same folk that make Micro Sol / Set. Cheap. Sure it's basically the same stuff as Testors.

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Thursday, November 22, 2012 3:28 PM

Bob H.

 I had a lot of difficulty with those over 30 year old decals. However it is difficult to see on the bedroom shelf. If anyone has some tips on how to deal with very old decals please let me know. Later....                Bob

Pick up a can of Testor's Decal Bonder, Bob... I've used 20 & 30 year-year old decals aplenty after spraying the sheets with it...  Only thing to remember about it is to shake it well and spray it on heavily enough to cover the entire sheet without letting it run, "pool", or get around to the back-side of the paper..  

It does, however, turn the sheet into one giant decal, so trim the decals as close to the ink as you can..

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 11:18 PM

GM:

I like those models a lot. (Never seen that gigantic German thing: looks like serious work.) When I first started modeling again about 2+ years back I did some 1/44 and 1/72 scale kits sitting around from a failed attempt to hook my kid. (He almost got into it, then he took up guitar. He plays guitar for a living now, so I guess he can be forgiven.) I had a few bottles of enamel paint left over and did the things by hand. All gloss. Zero weathering. (Didn't know what the term meant.) Because they're small they sit on top of one of my lovely Bowers & Wilkins 300 speakers (I got nailed by modeling because it proved to be the perfect hobby to go along with music - suitable that they're physically together.) Since then I've done maybe twenty kits that any experienced modeler would know that are much more complex and done at a higher level. Yet when people come into my back room, it's my little shinny models that they admire. (The fully rigged 1/32 scale Sopwith Camel in St. Paul beats them all for appeal to the unwashed. Not a bad kit really.) I've given some serious thought to finding a neat looking plane - something like a Boeing Peashooter (think that's what you have up there), or maybe an F-86 and try for a really clean build and paint it gloss. (Definitely going to do a "commission day" ship some day soon.) Make something that's really sweet on the eye and screw history. I've got your JU-52 (great build that one), but it's slated for some very heavy weather suitable for a ship doing duty at Stalingrad.  Anyway, I'm inspired.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 10:09 PM

Well, I guess for color fidelity pollyscale aluminum is pretty close to the mark. They have a newer brand out called "piston silver" that is a little finer and pretty close in color. I've got both piston silver and aluminum on major panels on the Texan. I've always liked floquil (pollyscale) acrylics but they've given me periodic tip clog. This time I thinned it down a little more than usual using a little water and Windex. Very smooth. For most water based acrylics I use artist Airbrush Medium which is white (dries clear) and a kind of liquid polymer - looks just like Vallejo Model Color thinner probably because it's the same thing. (Usually bad things happen if too much water gets into a paint: it breaks down the chemical bonding of the paint. That's the big advantage that the solvent based paints like Tamiya have - as long as you use lacquer thinner you can thin them down heavily and keep a good finish.) I'm not knocking the lacquers (although I do find Tamiya's silver leaf to be too course) I would just like to live without them. Art Com paints are available at most big art supply stores - look for something called transparent black and try it out on some primed plastic. It gives a moist, grimy look that is exactly what I see to some degree on all NMS aircraft that see heavy use. You have to try it out, but as noted it's extremely forgiving - almost like a pigment. Unfortunately I'm not sure NMS models photograph very well. I have a couple of major WWII era color films of US P-47 squadrons (the one in Italy "Thunderbolt" is very famous) and there are dozens of NMS planes - both jugs and mustangs. You can watch the things turn from shiny to soiled just by a change in the camera angle. In person my Texan looks more dirty and blotchy than it does in the photos - which is exactly what I wanted.  

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Cameron, Texas
Posted by Texgunner on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 8:06 AM

Bob, here's my Monogram MiG-15 done in Floquil's Olde Silver to give you an idea about how it looks.

I've used it, and their Bright Silver on several NMF builds, and I've always had pretty good results with it.  It's a tough finish.

Gary


"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Chambersburg, Pa.
Posted by Bob H. on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 6:15 AM

Eric, I really like the Texan. I have to figure out which paint to use for a NMF on an A-26 that is on the bench. I have been contemplating the Floquil " Olde Silver " as a starting point. I did read good things about it. I also had good results on some parts with Testors MM Aluminum Plate Rattlecan Buffing Metalizer. Back to the Texan... yours looks really good. The weathering on the NMF looks realistic as well. WAY TO GO !!!                By the way, my Wife will let me get back to building as soon as the Kitchen and Bathroom get finished!!!! They are 90% done.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 2:29 AM

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 2:12 AM

The basic 1/72 Cat. Replaced the engines with R2600's from a B-25. Rebuilt the front turtle deck w/o the turret. New PBY-6 tail. AM decals for the Fire eaters.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2nSRHbaEH0

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by Scorpiomikey on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 2:05 AM

That wiking is gorgeous. Is it still available? Ive been looking for a good (large) flying boat kit.

"I am a leaf on the wind, watch how i soar"

Recite the litanies, fire up the Gellar field, a poo storm is coming Hmm 

My signature

Check out my blog here.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 1:48 AM

Revell 1/400 San Juan Capistrano

USS Pine Island, Operation Longbow December of 1946.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 1:30 AM

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 1:07 AM

You want Revell, I got Revell. There's a Natural Metal Finish Group Build going on and Alcald is the thing. Except I don't like lacquer paints and neither does my wife. So I thought I'd use one kit to try out as many acrylic metallics and "sort of" lacquers like Gunze Super Metalizer and see how things would go. I just happened to have an AT-6 Texan, and I figured just the kit for a labaoratory.

Painting wise it went very well. When properly prepared the Gunzes, Hawkeye Talon and Pollyscales all produced perfectly good finishes. (I'm really thinking of my Japanese Army planes that will have a lot of camo over the NMS regardless.) Anyway, there are bits and pieces of six different metallic colors on the plane one place or another.

This is the first Revell kit I've done. (Early in my return to modeling I tried a P-38 and that was a mistake.) It was a good kit for this aircraft. The interior was simple but it was a proper birdcage and the T-6 had a simple interior. And nobody looks at my interiors anyway. The fit was good: there were some uglies but they were simple enough to fix. The plastic was tough and one thing about a more basic approach is that you don't kill yourself trying to do something like "button up" an Eduard fighter that can be left open, which is Czech for it should be left open. Some seams needed filling but those are skills I need work on anyway. (I'm getting very fond of various acrylic pastes from companies like Golden and Liquitex which also make very good fillers and are much more forgiving that putty.) The canopy fit very well and while it's a bit thick, I think it looks pretty good. BTW: I used an EZ Mask. Interesting stuff. It's not cut as cleanly as Eduard, but it's made of a very different material that allows you to move it into place like a decal. There was zero underspray and the stuff came off with no residue. I like it.

If this hadn't been a NMS build I could have chosen from a zillion neat US and foreign color schemes. But what I was looking for was a well used T-6 being used to train a zillion birdmen in 1943-45. So that meant a well used USAAF bird like the two shown below. To get a grimy and mottled surface that suggested dirt and fluids more than scratches and damage. I used a Faber Castell Pitt artist pen to mark the lines, Swanny's sludge wash and a very interesting model railroading weathering set which is made up of Iwata/Meda Com-Art paints. They're odd stuff: kind of a cross between an acrylic and a heavily diluted pigment. They airbrush very well and you build them up slowly and - as I chose - irregularly. There's a grimy moistness that doesn't really show in the pictures but is an interesting technique. I used this stuff on the deck of a battleship I recently made and it has real promise. One thing that's very nice is that the stuff is very forgiving. You can wash the stuff off the next day. But it was strong enough to hold the finish so I didn't seal it. 

Anyway, pics below. First one of Texan built and before weathering. Then a couple of real ones that showed what I was looking for. And the rest are my contribution to the Revell Air Force.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, November 20, 2012 10:29 PM

Bob, that Hawk looks pretty dang good to me. I love those old 1/72 Monogram Bipes. Those were some sweet kits. And you got the colors "just right"  ;-)

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Chambersburg, Pa.
Posted by Bob H. on Tuesday, November 20, 2012 10:17 PM

Yeah, I noticed how bad the placement of the decals was on the bottom side of the above Hawk. It was a goof up. I had a lot of difficulty with those over 30 year old decals. However it is difficult to see on the bedroom shelf. If anyone has some tips on how to deal with very old decals please let me know. Later....                Bob

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Chambersburg, Pa.
Posted by Bob H. on Tuesday, November 20, 2012 5:41 PM

WOW !! I just discovered this thread yesterday and I took the time to review all 37 pages. I had no idea that many of these old kits could me made to look sooo cool with good painting and some scratch building ( and aftermarket decals ). I have very little compleded but here are some photos of a little 1/72 scale Hawk that I put together for my Grandson's bedroom shelf ( He's not 2 yrs old yet ). It isn't fancy but I took the time to use the correct colors ( Pollyscale ). Hopefully it will spark his interest someday. Thanks to all who have taken the time to post on this thread. Later...           Bob

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, November 20, 2012 3:55 PM

I always wanted to build one of those 1/28 Dr.1s for my Great Aunt. She was was a young lady during that war and was something of a fan of the Baron, thinking him quite handsome. Unfortunately she died before I could find the kit and build it .

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Tuesday, November 20, 2012 3:18 PM

"My" personal Dr 1, from the "Enemy Ace" comic books..

Hand-painted "Kaiser face" on the cowl of this 1/28th Scale Revell kit from 1959..

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Tuesday, November 20, 2012 3:13 PM

Like so...

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Tuesday, November 20, 2012 3:12 PM

Dunno, but what I do is right-click on the picture (after it opens, otherwise you get the thumbnail),  then click on "properties". Once the window opens up, I then copy the URL and then paste THAT into the "post-image" box of the reply window, then click on "post". (You have to use the "Use rich formatting" function when you reply, BTW)

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Crawfordsville, Indiana
Posted by Wabashwheels on Tuesday, November 20, 2012 2:45 PM

What have I done wrong here?  I copied the IMG code in Photobucket and pasted it in my reply post.  I tried it in the forum test page and it worked, but it only displays the link in my two posts here.  any help?  Rick

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Crawfordsville, Indiana
Posted by Wabashwheels on Tuesday, November 20, 2012 2:35 PM

 

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