New 1/48 Eduard Spitfire MK IXC Work in Progess Build...FINISHED...

Already started mine.

Nothing like bringing a new release to the front of the build pile! This is gonna be sweet! Nice work Antoni. I've seen the rear fuselage painted aluminum or green. Not sure if both are correct or not.

Aww, you guys are making me jealous!! Ive had no time to finish my Dora and get started on my IXc. I am really looking forward to seeing the lawdog treatment on Eduards newest kit!

Antoni, do you have a build log up anywhere of your work on this kit?? Would love to see it as well.

Antoni that looks great.  How about a work in progress thread?

Joe

Hello. I'm checking in with a small update.  Unfortunately an obscene amount of overtime at work has cut into my modeling time.  As I said, my love for the Merlin powered Spit propelled this guy to the front of the pile.  I plan to go out of the box, but I might use Ultracast wheels.  We'll when I get to that point. 

The cockpit is very nice and in my opinion better that the Hellcat.  It has just the right amount of PE too.  I know there is resin Eduard has available for it on the side, but I just don't see the need.  I painted it XF-69 NATO Black as a preshade (I'm out of XF-1 at the moment) then taped off everything that is supposed to be black.  I then concocted RAF interior green with XF-71 Cockpit Green mixed with a touch of XF-66 Light Grey.  I then shaded this color in.  The seat was painted a mixture of XF-64 Red Brown and few drops of XF-7 Flat Red to simulate the bakelite resin material the seats were apparently made of.  I wonder if any Spit seats were metal?  Murphy's law would dictate that the flare holder thing on the seat and double cylinder thing (technical terms) on the back of the seat frame were not on the MK. IX.  Doh!...too late...next time.  I guess Eduard may be planning on other Marks.  To add further insult to injury, I painted the the flare holder in Aluminum to add further interest, since I didn't thing green would have looked right.  Eh...nobody is really gonna see it anyways.   The PE seatbelts on this kit are phenomenal.  They are some of the best I've seen.  I gave the pit a post shade of a diluted Red Brown and NATO Black mixture then it got a Testor's clear gloss coat.  Everything then got a "Detailer" wash and it was sealed with Testor's Dull Coat. 

A quick test fit.  It looks promising.  I do wonder if that support bar between the frames is going to interfere with the fit of the back window as it does on the Tamiya Spitfire MK I. 

I hope to have it sealed up in the next few days

Joe. 

Looking good Joe!

Okay, that's just freaking unbelievable!  What team of master modellers did you pay to do that?  Huh?

Really, I would hate to see it if you had had PLENTY of time to work on it!

I'm just going to go crawl into a corner with Mr. Teddy... 

This is going to be a work of art.

Gary

Good start Joe. What scheme you doing? I've read the Ultracast wheels don't fit due to Eduard's engineering of the axle stubs...May have to use their Brassin ones. Just a heads up before you buy.

You are right about the flare rack, it is unlikely that it was fitted. No problem leaving it off, just remove the tabs on the sides of the seat.

Everything fits perfectly, including the canopy. Its sometime a problem getting cement into the joints.

Parts F40 and F56 would most likely be Aluminium.

The two black cylinders is the voltage regulator. This type first appeared on the later Mk Vs.

On the decal sheet for the stencils numbers 39 to 41 inclusive are variations for the stencils on the inside of the door. I cannot find any mention of them on the instruction sheet. As it is possible to have the canopy and door open this might be a disappointment to some who would like to include them. For the later Mk Ixs number 40 is the one that seems to have been most common.

Thanks for the compliments Nathan and Gary.  Nathan, thanks for the heads up.  I guess I'll have to use the Ultracast wheels for an alternate project (no biggie...lots of Merlin Spits in the stash).  I am considering getting some aftermarket exhausts though.  I'm likely going to go with the subject with the full invasion stripes.  I'm not sure I can resist the temptation.  Antoni, great reference pics.  Unfortunately I already painted this area green, but I'll remember that for next time.  So the regulator is supposed to be there...good. 

I was able to get a little more work in last night.  The instrument panel was installed as was the rudder pedals  The starboard side was then assembled which fit like a glove. 

One last look before I close it up.

The fuselage was sealed without a hitch.  There are two Hasegawa-esque plugs that go in each forward wing root.  Apparently this area is different on the various Marks of the Spitfire, again suggesting there will be others soon.  Unlike Hasegawa, these fit fine.   

I then taped the wings together to get a preliminary idea on general fit, especially the wingroot area.  It seems to be perfect so far with no need to glue the upper wings on first.  Just look at all that beautiful detail on those wings.  I hope other companies are taking note.

I still don't understand Eduard's need to complicate things uneccessarily.  There is like 13 pieces to build the gear bay.  It reminded me of their 190 series.  It does seem to fit fine when welded with Tenax (I keep my Tenax in an old Tamiya Extra Thin Cement bottle because I like the attached applicator).  We will have to see low it looks painted an weathered.   

Heres how it will look when completed.  I suppose it will look nicer than the others.  Maybe Eduard will have a crack at the P-51D and correct this area which is wrong on all 1/48 scale examples...hum.

Rather speechless Joe, fantastic workmanship as usual.  I can't wait to see your paint job on this one!

Thanks Reasoned.  I have been slowly but surely finding some modeling time and I did  manage to get the airframe together.  Its been a real pleasure so far and I am just in awe over the detail Eduard has presented on perhaps my favorite single engine fighter...the Merlin Spit.  The fine rivet detail is remarkable and these are the best reproductions of Dzus fasteners I've ever seen, at least in this scale.  One small gripe though, I don't understand the two piece top cowl panel.  It was unecessary seam work and kind of hard to preserve the rivet detail on top .  They were able to hollow out the cannons and exhausts, but they couldn't make the cowl one piece?  The fit was good though.  Here it is pre seam work....

Speaking of the exhausts...they're leaps and bounds head of their FW 190 Dora and ME 110 subjects.  There's no need for the aftermarket here.  I sprayed mine XF-1 Flat Black then dusted them with XF-64 Red Brown.  They were then drybrushed with Floquil Old Silver.   They come out with a nice worn metallic look, at least to my eye.  Its too bad they couldn't design these so they could be installed from the outside though.  I will install mine then tape them off. 

I got the airframe together.  It was fairly painless and needed no filler anywhere.  The tail assembly design was clever and allows you to pose the stabilizers lowered with virtually no modification.  I did this slightly.  The wing tips and ailerons went on without a hitch. 

...and primed with Alclad Grey.  This is also the nicest detailed "stock" prop hub I've seen in a kit.   

I gave it a preshade of XF-1.  This took forever with all the rivet lines. 

I will be succumbing to the option with the full invasion stripes, namely Jerry Billing's post D-day June 7th 1944 mount.  I guess it was before he named it Dorothy?  I also have Super Scale decals which include the mounts of Johnny Johnson and John Plagis so there's a chance I may still change my mind.  The problem is that everyone does Johnson's Spit, so I want to be different.  I started painting the XF-2 Flat White for the stripes which I cut with Tamiya lacquer thinner for extra bite since there will be a lot of taping here. 

Thats where I left off.  I hope to get more work in soon.

Joe

Awesome Joe. Gotta get me one of these. No modeling time now though. I'll build vicariously through you though...

She's really coming along Joe.  Yeah, strange on the cowl design especially when you consider it is all one piece on the real thing.

Thanks guys.  Nathan, welcome aboard.  Due to budget cuts, there will be no movie on this flight.  I did have a taping/painting marathon in the overnight hours.  I was surprised how much I got done.  I decided to do Billing's Tangmere mount, so I broke out the trusty mirror, Exacto and roll of Tamiya tape.  By using the instruction sheet profile of Billing's plane, I taped off all of the areas to remain white.  It was somewhat tedious but by no means difficult. 

The stripes were painted XF-1 Flat Black and taped off.  I sprayed the fuselage stripe XF-21 Sky and the wing leading edge ID stripes were done in XF-3 Flat Yellow mixed with a touch of XF-7 Flat Red to deepen the color a bit (I did the same with the prop tips).  These were then taped off and the RAF day fighter scheme was started.  I started with XF-83 Medium Sea Grey and shaded in the lower surface color.  This was then lightened with XF-2 Flat white and condensation streaks were added.  After this, I used some dilited XF-64 red brown and XF-1 flat black on some panel lines to dirty it up a bit.  I went easy at this point but it will likely get more later.

I then flipped it over and sprayed XF-82 Ocean Grey. I did the streaking and postshading here too.  On the latter, I decided to go a bit heavy...more than usual.  I figure these MK IX Spits at at this stage of the war were rode hard and put away wet.  I like the way it turned out and again my do more.   

At least the camo pattern will be easy thanks to the stripes.  I rolled up Blue Tac laid it out to match the profile picture. 

I then used XF-81 for the Dark Green.  Its common knowledge that rubber mats were used to mask off the real thing so a hard edge was the result, but I prefer a "slight" feathering on my RAF aircraft.  Artistic license I suppose.    I achieve this by getting close with low presure, about 5 or 10 psi) and it reduces overspray.  I added a few drops of XF-57 Buff and streaked the green.  I removed everything and after a few more details are taken care of, such as adding the black foot pad (I think?) at the port wing root, it should be ready for a clear coat. 

Thanks for looking,

Joe

very nice....

How do you deal with tram lines where paint builds up against the masking tape?

Looking great Joe!

Thanks guys.  Jon, I don't know what a Tram line is, but I think you mean where the tape meets the plastic.  Paint build up for me isn't a problem due to a few factors.  Heres my method for invasion stripes:  

1.  First, I paint the general area Tamiya XF-2 Flat White.  I use light coats and this color is cut with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, so it "bites" into the plastic.  This discourages paint lift off due to all the upcoming taping, in case a spot was missed in surface prep (it happens).  

2.  Next, use Tamiya tape.  There is no substitute for masking in scale modeling (except Eduard canopy masks...but that's another application).  I attach the tape to the above pictured mirror and slice strips with a fresh exacto. Measure out the widths of the stripes and apply the strips.  Some people burnish it down with a blunt object to get a good seal but I find a that finger pressure is sufficient with this stuff.  Once outlined, fill in the white stripe with more tape (see picture above finished taping).   

3.  Finally, the black stripes get added with Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black.  This time, its cut with 91% Isopropyl alcohol which dries almost immediately when it hits the surface, in turn, preventing any chance of bleed under.  I use light coats and build up the color.  The whole section is then taped off to get ready for the paint scheme. 

This works for me and I have never had any trouble with paint build up or bleed under using this method.  This works for anything, such as fuselage bands or anti glare panels, but the invasion stripes would be the most involved application.  The true test was the bottom of this MK. IX with the radiators and doors in the way of the stripe.  The Tamiya tape performed flawlessly.

Interestingly though, We took a family trip to the Dayton Air Force Museum (highly recommended) on Tuesday and I was able to stand under the wing of a C-47 clad in Invasion stripes.  These appeared to be painted in a very haphazard manner.  I think I even saw brush strokes. This seemed to confirm what I have read that these were just thrown on sloppy with a paint brush due to time constraints.  Of course that C-47 was probably a replica D-Day bird and the stripes weren't authentically applied.  This is all fine and dandy, but the problem is, this application looks terrible in the scale modeling world.  I will continue to use artistic license here....lol.   

Joe

Joe,

I would really like to offer some constructive criticism... but I can't.  This is a superb job on the Eduard kit, even with the split cowl.  You make it look so easy.

One good thing is that you make me want to get back to the bench and resume work on my own projects.    It's inspirational.

Gary

Thanks,

I've got the black down on a Horsa, using Vallejo primer + Future, I'll try dusting Tamiya white + IPA for the  overall black, brown/green top camo + stripes scheme.

My paint build-up where it meets the tape tends to grow to tram rail proportions!

My enthusiasm sometimes out-paces my talent at times....  

Your welcome  If your using Vallejo, that may be your problem.  The guy at my LHS let me try a bottle of their "Air" series and I was not impressed.  It seemed to go on fairly thick and didn't cover very well.  I prefer Tamiya acrylic paints and pretty much use them exclusively.  I just find them easier to work with and it doesnt take much to get the coverage you need.  Alot of people have trouble getting coverage with the color yellow and white.  I find that Tamiya's perform great.    

Tram lines. I get the analogy now....lol.

Joe

Lawdog,

that is looking very nice indeed.  Those stripes are absolutely beautiful and an excellent job on the leading edge yellow.

Having used Vallejo Model Air myself for a little while now, I quite like it.  As you say, yellow and white are a little difficult, but I apply several light layers.  I'm not so impressed by their color matching all the time, but overall I quite like their paints.  All a matter of preference, I suppose.

I do have to say, I am endlessly impressed by your weathering / pre and post shading technique on everything I've seen you do, and this is no exception.  Beautiful bird.

Thanks Andrew for your kind words.  I hope some of my techniques rub off on others.  That's why I joined this forum.  Lord knows I've stolen many tricks from you guys.  Your exactly right.  You have to find what works for you.  I used to use Model Master Enamels but I got tired of opening bottles to find a chunk of goo that used to be paint in the bottom. This happened quite often and at 3 bucks a bottle, I'll pass.  I do still have a few grays that for some reason never dried up that I use for drybrushing.   I also use Floquil Old Silver and their Grimy Black quiet often too. 

I eventually discovered Tamiya acrylics and I really haven't looked back.  I get great control with the airbrush using them and I like how fast they dry when cut with 91% Isoprophyl.  I have however tried Gunze Aqueous recently and I like them too.   Their Olive Drab, US Interior Green and RLM colors are the best I've ever seen.  Unfortunately I had to get these from overseas since they're no longer available in the US. 

Anyways, I did manage to get the Spitfire clearcoated (with Alclad Gloss Coat) and decaled over the last few days.  Beware folks.....these decals are lousy, at least the ones in my example were.  The white backing paper (instead of light blue) should have tipped me off.  Did Techmod make these?  Ironically I was having flashbacks to my Hasegawa MK IX I built using these.  They are too thin and completely unforgiving.  You better get them exactly where you need 'em and use lots of water.  Also, if it touches your finger, it will shrivel up and your done.  Fortunately I started with the fuselage codes and numbers and discovered how they were going to behave early on.  Aside from a few underside stencils that became casualties to my finger, I was able to finagle them all in place and I only had to fix the "5" in ML135 on the port side.  All this said, once down, they snugged right down under Micro Sol.  I guess the tough part is getting them there.  I can't speak for the roundels or tail fin flash, I chose not to open that can of worms.  Instead I supplemented these with Eagle Strike examples (I have several Aeromaster and Eagle Strike sheets of just RAF roundels and flashes for this particular situation).  These always perform flawlessly.  At least the invasion stripes limited the stencils I needed, which reduced the length of my anxiety.   I reasoned that they were not re-painted on after the stripes were slopped on (and yes....that G-2 is likely next...I'm getting Luftwaffe fever again.  I'm thinking Guther Rall's markings)  

I gave it another coat of Gloss to seal the decals and it will get a Flory wash soon to grunge it up.

Joe   

Looks just what I expected from you Joe, spot on.

Oh please do get the Luft bug, can't wait to see you tackle the 109.

Nice Joe. You're a master at masking and painting all things. Thanks for the honest review with the kit decals. All the reviews I've read only mention the inaccurate roundel size for the red center? I'll be getting some Montex masks myself when I buy this kit.

Oh, and you'll love the G-2 kit. Aftermarket decals though?

Thanks Reasoned and Nathan.  Yeah, I would avoid these decals if possible.  Like I said, maybe I just got a bad sheet.   Interestingly, the decals they provided for the Hellcat were excellent.,,,,strange.  I was unaware there were size issues but I did think  the roundel blue is a ittle too bright for my liking.  Aeromaster-Eagle Strike has never failed me for these.  I've seen those Montex masks on E-bay and have been considering tryng them myself.  What a great idea.  

I was going to do a Tamiya P-51B in Kidd Hofer's 4th FG markings, but unfortunately I'm getting into a Luftwaffen mood again.  It happens sometimes.  I've built their G-6 and 14 before, so I would imagine the G-2 will be similar.  I'm going to do experten Gunther Rall's 1942 109 on the Russian front.  I've seen many interviews with him and he seemed like a decent guy.  This kit comes with Rall's markings but I may just use what is specific to his plane and supplement the rest with Aeromaster.  I don't generally have good luck with Hasegawa decals.   I am going to shoehorn in a True Details cockpit too.  

I hope to have this MK. IX finished soon.  

Joe

As far as the decals are concerned, they are not Techmod. It says printed in the Czech Republic, Techmod usually put their name on anything they do. I think the Royal boxing will have Cartograf decals. I think that is what Eduard normally do with Royal boxings. I will know in a few days time when it arrives.

The codes are a bit on the pale side for Sky and the red of the chess boards a bit anaemic.  The red and blue of the national markings are dark in colour but a little brighter than usual, the red has a mottled look.

Hopefully you are able to see that.

There are six options to choose from and I have issues with two of them.

MH712 “Pat” did not have any stripes under the wings.

In late 1944 this was perfectly normal.

I am not impressed with Pat, her chin seems to be joined to her breasts. A few whiskers and she could be Desperate Dan in drag. I have a set of decals  from Kagero's Topcolors 15 that have a much better looking Pat. However she is riding on a champagne bottle. Only recently has it bee discovered that it is in fact a 500lb bomb. I might try cutting out Kagero's Pat and placing her on Eduard's bomb. Small niggles that really do not matter. I think the admonition  “WYCIERAĆ OBUWIE (WIPE YOUR FEET)” , also seen on other Spitfires of the Polish Wing, was white and probably only on the side that the pilot entered the cockpit. I cannot make out the MH part of MH712 at the top of the fin. Sometimes aircraft were identified only by the numeric part of the serial number so there is nothing significant in this.

As for size. The upper wing roundels were 56 inches in diameter, the red centre 22.4 inches in diameter. That translates into 1/48 scale as 2.96 cm and 1.185 cm respectively. Measuring the decals I find Eduard to be 2.95/1.25 cm and in comparison Techmod 2.9/1.2 cm, Eagle Strike 2.9/1.2 cm & Lifelike 2.9/1.1 cm. So if anything, Eduard are slightly larger, not smaller. A similar exercise with the fuselage and underwing roundels produced similar results with Eduard, Techmod and Eagle Strike spot on but Lifelike 1mm too small.

So far the only kit decals I have used have been the stencils for the door and the propeller spinner.

I was given some advise by a Polish modeller some years ago. I cannot say for sure that it makes a difference but I have used Techmod decals a lot and I do not seem to have had the problems that others report.

Do not soak them in water. Instead wet the back of the paper with a brush. From my own experience. Wait until the decal is free to move at the slightest touch. Do not try to encourage it to move. When moving them make sure there is plenty of water under them. Use a sharp needle to pull them from the front into position. Do not push them from behind or middle, especially stencils, as they can buckle and break.

Awesome work Joe!!

Shaping up very nicely Joe!