New 1/48 Eduard Spitfire MK IXC Work in Progess Build...FINISHED...

Thank you very much for your answer and link, very kind of you

Paolo

quote user="paolo1968"]

This "office" is really incredible. If I may, I would like to ask you how you raise the detail of black parts, and in general how do you execute the washes.

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Thanks Paolo.  Its a drybrush technique.  I paint the boxes Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black and then drybrush them with a gray enamel.  Any gray paint will do, but I use Model Masters.  I then lightly drybrush them with Floquil Old Silver to show some wear.  I think they stopped making Floquil so you may have to source it elsewhere or check Ebay.  The key is to go very lightly with a stubby flat brush.  Reference the wash, I use "The Detailer" on my cockpits, a mixture of the black and brown.  Its a waterbased wash that I have really taken a liking to.  I found it at my local hobby store, but it shouldn't be too hard to find.  Here's a tutorial on how I paint and weather my cockpits.....

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/156030.aspx

Hope this helps....good luck

Joe

Hello there,

I am a new user, and first I want to say that I have been really impressed by the quality of your work.

This "office" is really incredible. If I may, I would like to ask you how you raise the detail of black parts, and in general how do you execute the washes.

I attach a pic just to clarify.

Thanks in advance,

Paolo

Thanks Marmaduke.  The model is just sitting on there.  By all means, steal it.  Its a wooden plaque from a craft store and the terrain is real dirt and model railroad grass attached with Elmer's white glue.  

Joe

Amazing build! Your work is top of the line! I really like the wooden plaque base idea, I may have to steal it. Is the model somehow attached to it or just set onto it?

lawdog114

Thanks Greg and your welcome.  Order it and build it, you won't regret it.  It would be hard to mess this kit up, It practically builds itself.  

Joe

Thanks, Joe. (and also for the encouragement)  I just might. I had envisioned one day getting one with all the Big Ed stuff available, I think I can see the wisdom of giving the kit a try as is.

I forgot to mention earlier, you surely made this look easy! And about a one month build. Yikes, I've been fiddling with my TBM since February, I think. :) Bit off a bit much to chew on my first build back, with all the PE and stuff.

I just got finished readin gthis thread. Having been undecided whether I want to get the 1/48th scale Spitfire Mk. XIc in wither Hasegawa or ICM, it looks now maybe I might want to get this brand.

beautiful work lawdog!!! beautiful kit indeed. can't wait to start mine. got some desert markings on hold.

Thanks Greg and your welcome.  Order it and build it, you won't regret it.  It would be hard to mess this kit up, It practically builds itself.  

Joe

Wow.

I learned many things just quickly reading this excellent thread. I was taken by your initial cockpit work, later to realise I hadn't seen nothin' yet. :)

Thank you for the shots of the rolled blu-tac for the camo mask. I've been scratching my head for a couple months trying to figure out how I'm going to get soft lines on my current newbie build when I get there. Problem solved. You are my hero of the week. (it never fails to amaze me how simple a solution is once I see it done.

Excellent work. I have wanted to order this kit so badly, but I think I'd better get some more experience under my belt, don't want to mess it up.

Thanks Eric.  Reasoned, dig in, you won't be disappointed.  I wish I would have dusted off that white spec of lint or dirt on the starboard roundel before snapping the pictures.  I can't believe I didn't notice that. Its like the mole in Austin Powers..lol!

Joe

Not much to add in the compliment dept. on this one Joe, WOW!  Makes me want to dig into a Spit and soon.  Everything looks 

First class build Joe!! Just want to say thanks for taking the time to post these builds pic by pic and give the narrative. Can't wait to see the next one!

I'm gonna call her done.  Here is the finished example in the markings of Jerry Billing's Spitfire MK IXc out of Tangmere (some sources say Biggin Hill) on June 7th 1944.  During my research, I discovered that Billing was actually better at getting shot down than actually doing the shooting.   He bailed out of a Spitfire 3 times with the last being behind enemy lines for which he evaded capture.  All kidding aside, Billing flew two tours, participated in 250 plus sorties and was in the skies over the D-Day landing in Normandy keeping the Luftwaffe off our boys.  My hat is off to you sir and thank you for your bravery and service.   Billing flew the subject I chose not only on D-Day, but on D-Day "plus one" where he flamed a JU 88 and "squirted at" (Fighter pilot jargon?) two FW 190's.

Now for the kit.  All I can say is wow.  It's definitely the best 1/48 Spitfire and from the looks of the sprues, there will be more variants.  It is unrivaled in attention to detail and ease of construction.  In my opinion, it needs absolutely nothing in regards to aftermarket and its the first subject I've done completely by what's offered in the box.  Look out Tamiya. This said,  I do have gripes though, albeit small.  The first is the two piece cowl.  They can hollow out the exhaust and gun barrels but they can't make a once piece cowl.  It was certainly an exercise in sanding to avoid erasing the rivet detail and I still have a ghost seam line that can be seen under certain light.  I guess Eduard wants us to keep our basic modeling skills in check in my case the lack thereof.  Next, Eduard continues their trend of unnecessarily complicating things. The gear wells and radiators come in too many pieces and if you don't pay attention, they are easy to mess up.  I survived by paying attention to the instructions.  Finally, I don't like the circular plug at the bottom of the gear leg which inserts into the kit wheels.  It completely inhibits aftermarket wheels and forces you to use the kit wheels which are average at best.    Also, for some reason, when I installed the gear legs, the wheels were ever so slightly "toed- out".  I dry-fitted everything before glue and it appears to be kit design.  Maybe the MK. IX was designed this way.  Oh....and the decals, but I'm just not going there again. 

Enough yapping, here's some pictures.  Thank you for following this thread and comments are welcome.

Joe

* Note:  Slight toe-out of the wheels.  Its kind of "Bf 109 ish".  I might have to fix this.

antoni

As far as the decals are concerned, they are not Techmod. It says printed in the Czech Republic, Techmod usually put their name on anything they do.

Thanks a pants load guys.  Thanks for the warning Antoni.  I'm glad they give you a disclaimer so you can't be fooled.  Nah, I'm just kidding.  I'll remember this technique if I ever "just have to have" a Techmod subject.  Also, thank you for sharing your vast knowledge of the Spit.  I always find your input extremely useful. 

Joe

Shaping up very nicely Joe!

Awesome work Joe!!

As far as the decals are concerned, they are not Techmod. It says printed in the Czech Republic, Techmod usually put their name on anything they do. I think the Royal boxing will have Cartograf decals. I think that is what Eduard normally do with Royal boxings. I will know in a few days time when it arrives.

The codes are a bit on the pale side for Sky and the red of the chess boards a bit anaemic.  The red and blue of the national markings are dark in colour but a little brighter than usual, the red has a mottled look.

Hopefully you are able to see that.

There are six options to choose from and I have issues with two of them.

MH712 “Pat” did not have any stripes under the wings.

In late 1944 this was perfectly normal.

I am not impressed with Pat, her chin seems to be joined to her breasts. A few whiskers and she could be Desperate Dan in drag. I have a set of decals  from Kagero's Topcolors 15 that have a much better looking Pat. However she is riding on a champagne bottle. Only recently has it bee discovered that it is in fact a 500lb bomb. I might try cutting out Kagero's Pat and placing her on Eduard's bomb. Small niggles that really do not matter. I think the admonition  “WYCIERAĆ OBUWIE (WIPE YOUR FEET)” , also seen on other Spitfires of the Polish Wing, was white and probably only on the side that the pilot entered the cockpit. I cannot make out the MH part of MH712 at the top of the fin. Sometimes aircraft were identified only by the numeric part of the serial number so there is nothing significant in this.

As for size. The upper wing roundels were 56 inches in diameter, the red centre 22.4 inches in diameter. That translates into 1/48 scale as 2.96 cm and 1.185 cm respectively. Measuring the decals I find Eduard to be 2.95/1.25 cm and in comparison Techmod 2.9/1.2 cm, Eagle Strike 2.9/1.2 cm & Lifelike 2.9/1.1 cm. So if anything, Eduard are slightly larger, not smaller. A similar exercise with the fuselage and underwing roundels produced similar results with Eduard, Techmod and Eagle Strike spot on but Lifelike 1mm too small.

So far the only kit decals I have used have been the stencils for the door and the propeller spinner.

I was given some advise by a Polish modeller some years ago. I cannot say for sure that it makes a difference but I have used Techmod decals a lot and I do not seem to have had the problems that others report.

Do not soak them in water. Instead wet the back of the paper with a brush. From my own experience. Wait until the decal is free to move at the slightest touch. Do not try to encourage it to move. When moving them make sure there is plenty of water under them. Use a sharp needle to pull them from the front into position. Do not push them from behind or middle, especially stencils, as they can buckle and break.

Thanks Reasoned and Nathan.  Yeah, I would avoid these decals if possible.  Like I said, maybe I just got a bad sheet.   Interestingly, the decals they provided for the Hellcat were excellent.,,,,strange.  I was unaware there were size issues but I did think  the roundel blue is a ittle too bright for my liking.  Aeromaster-Eagle Strike has never failed me for these.  I've seen those Montex masks on E-bay and have been considering tryng them myself.  What a great idea.  

I was going to do a Tamiya P-51B in Kidd Hofer's 4th FG markings, but unfortunately I'm getting into a Luftwaffen mood again.  It happens sometimes.  I've built their G-6 and 14 before, so I would imagine the G-2 will be similar.  I'm going to do experten Gunther Rall's 1942 109 on the Russian front.  I've seen many interviews with him and he seemed like a decent guy.  This kit comes with Rall's markings but I may just use what is specific to his plane and supplement the rest with Aeromaster.  I don't generally have good luck with Hasegawa decals.   I am going to shoehorn in a True Details cockpit too.  

I hope to have this MK. IX finished soon.  

Joe

Nice Joe. You're a master at masking and painting all things. Thanks for the honest review with the kit decals. All the reviews I've read only mention the inaccurate roundel size for the red center? I'll be getting some Montex masks myself when I buy this kit.

Oh, and you'll love the G-2 kit. Aftermarket decals though?

Looks just what I expected from you Joe, spot on.

Oh please do get the Luft bug, can't wait to see you tackle the 109.

Thanks Andrew for your kind words.  I hope some of my techniques rub off on others.  That's why I joined this forum.  Lord knows I've stolen many tricks from you guys.  Your exactly right.  You have to find what works for you.  I used to use Model Master Enamels but I got tired of opening bottles to find a chunk of goo that used to be paint in the bottom. This happened quite often and at 3 bucks a bottle, I'll pass.  I do still have a few grays that for some reason never dried up that I use for drybrushing.   I also use Floquil Old Silver and their Grimy Black quiet often too. 

I eventually discovered Tamiya acrylics and I really haven't looked back.  I get great control with the airbrush using them and I like how fast they dry when cut with 91% Isoprophyl.  I have however tried Gunze Aqueous recently and I like them too.   Their Olive Drab, US Interior Green and RLM colors are the best I've ever seen.  Unfortunately I had to get these from overseas since they're no longer available in the US. 

Anyways, I did manage to get the Spitfire clearcoated (with Alclad Gloss Coat) and decaled over the last few days.  Beware folks.....these decals are lousy, at least the ones in my example were.  The white backing paper (instead of light blue) should have tipped me off.  Did Techmod make these?  Ironically I was having flashbacks to my Hasegawa MK IX I built using these.  They are too thin and completely unforgiving.  You better get them exactly where you need 'em and use lots of water.  Also, if it touches your finger, it will shrivel up and your done.  Fortunately I started with the fuselage codes and numbers and discovered how they were going to behave early on.  Aside from a few underside stencils that became casualties to my finger, I was able to finagle them all in place and I only had to fix the "5" in ML135 on the port side.  All this said, once down, they snugged right down under Micro Sol.  I guess the tough part is getting them there.  I can't speak for the roundels or tail fin flash, I chose not to open that can of worms.  Instead I supplemented these with Eagle Strike examples (I have several Aeromaster and Eagle Strike sheets of just RAF roundels and flashes for this particular situation).  These always perform flawlessly.  At least the invasion stripes limited the stencils I needed, which reduced the length of my anxiety.   I reasoned that they were not re-painted on after the stripes were slopped on (and yes....that G-2 is likely next...I'm getting Luftwaffe fever again.  I'm thinking Guther Rall's markings)  

I gave it another coat of Gloss to seal the decals and it will get a Flory wash soon to grunge it up.

Joe   

Lawdog,

that is looking very nice indeed.  Those stripes are absolutely beautiful and an excellent job on the leading edge yellow.

Having used Vallejo Model Air myself for a little while now, I quite like it.  As you say, yellow and white are a little difficult, but I apply several light layers.  I'm not so impressed by their color matching all the time, but overall I quite like their paints.  All a matter of preference, I suppose.

I do have to say, I am endlessly impressed by your weathering / pre and post shading technique on everything I've seen you do, and this is no exception.  Beautiful bird.

Your welcome  If your using Vallejo, that may be your problem.  The guy at my LHS let me try a bottle of their "Air" series and I was not impressed.  It seemed to go on fairly thick and didn't cover very well.  I prefer Tamiya acrylic paints and pretty much use them exclusively.  I just find them easier to work with and it doesnt take much to get the coverage you need.  Alot of people have trouble getting coverage with the color yellow and white.  I find that Tamiya's perform great.    

Tram lines. I get the analogy now....lol.

Joe

Thanks,

I've got the black down on a Horsa, using Vallejo primer + Future, I'll try dusting Tamiya white + IPA for the  overall black, brown/green top camo + stripes scheme.

My paint build-up where it meets the tape tends to grow to tram rail proportions!

My enthusiasm sometimes out-paces my talent at times....  

Joe,

I would really like to offer some constructive criticism... but I can't.  This is a superb job on the Eduard kit, even with the split cowl.  You make it look so easy.

One good thing is that you make me want to get back to the bench and resume work on my own projects.    It's inspirational.

Gary

Thanks guys.  Jon, I don't know what a Tram line is, but I think you mean where the tape meets the plastic.  Paint build up for me isn't a problem due to a few factors.  Heres my method for invasion stripes:  

1.  First, I paint the general area Tamiya XF-2 Flat White.  I use light coats and this color is cut with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, so it "bites" into the plastic.  This discourages paint lift off due to all the upcoming taping, in case a spot was missed in surface prep (it happens).  

2.  Next, use Tamiya tape.  There is no substitute for masking in scale modeling (except Eduard canopy masks...but that's another application).  I attach the tape to the above pictured mirror and slice strips with a fresh exacto. Measure out the widths of the stripes and apply the strips.  Some people burnish it down with a blunt object to get a good seal but I find a that finger pressure is sufficient with this stuff.  Once outlined, fill in the white stripe with more tape (see picture above finished taping).   

3.  Finally, the black stripes get added with Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black.  This time, its cut with 91% Isopropyl alcohol which dries almost immediately when it hits the surface, in turn, preventing any chance of bleed under.  I use light coats and build up the color.  The whole section is then taped off to get ready for the paint scheme. 

This works for me and I have never had any trouble with paint build up or bleed under using this method.  This works for anything, such as fuselage bands or anti glare panels, but the invasion stripes would be the most involved application.  The true test was the bottom of this MK. IX with the radiators and doors in the way of the stripe.  The Tamiya tape performed flawlessly.

Interestingly though, We took a family trip to the Dayton Air Force Museum (highly recommended) on Tuesday and I was able to stand under the wing of a C-47 clad in Invasion stripes.  These appeared to be painted in a very haphazard manner.  I think I even saw brush strokes. This seemed to confirm what I have read that these were just thrown on sloppy with a paint brush due to time constraints.  Of course that C-47 was probably a replica D-Day bird and the stripes weren't authentically applied.  This is all fine and dandy, but the problem is, this application looks terrible in the scale modeling world.  I will continue to use artistic license here....lol.   

Joe

Looking great Joe!

very nice....

How do you deal with tram lines where paint builds up against the masking tape?