i will use vallejo model color thinned gloss black as the primer

thanks a bunch, i am all done and ready to start now.

last thing i would want to know is as you guys said i need different shades for different panels to make it look good. what alclad products should i order to have them all? polished aluminium is probably a must have right? what about the other shades?

dflu78

Alclad. The end.

You only need the gloss black on the high shine colors though. Nevertheless, I use it as a base for painting everything...not just metallics. Surface prep is key. My process is to clean the plastic really well with alcohol, polish with some Novus polishing compound, spray a microfilling surface primer, buff that good and then spray and buff the black.

Also, avoid the Alclad black primer. It's notorious for having bad batches that never entirely cure. Google around and you will see its a very common issue. I managed to ruin a

Tamiya Mustang with it. I use decanted Krylon but any other gloss black will work. A lot of people use Tamiya.

I use Testors gloss black in the small bottle, works just fine.

dflu78

I use decanted Krylon but any other gloss black will work. A lot of people use Tamiya.

I've done it with Tamiya X-1 and Model Master Acryl Gloss black and both work great. My Alclad black primer is almost new. I can't stand the smell.

Alclad. The end.

You only need the gloss black on the high shine colors though. Nevertheless, I use it as a base for painting everything...not just metallics. Surface prep is key. My process is to clean the plastic really well with alcohol, polish with some Novus polishing compound, spray a microfilling surface primer, buff that good and then spray and buff the black.

Also, avoid the Alclad black primer. It's notorious for having bad batches that never entirely cure. Google around and you will see its a very common issue. I managed to ruin a

Tamiya Mustang with it. I use decanted Krylon but any other gloss black will work. A lot of people use Tamiya.

I've used both, Alclad and Metalizer from rattle cans. I like a lot the look and feel of Testors Metalizer. The problem is that it is not friendly with masking tape. On a big project like the 1/48 B-17 *I* would go with Rattle can Metalizer from Testors, but again, that would be me.

Since Alclad has no problem with masking tape, I paint some panels with it. Then mask those panels and paint the rest with Metalizer. Metalizer doesn't respond well to even its native sealer so I don't seal my NMF models. After years of being painted, I haven't seen any deterioration of the finish.

My .02 humble cents.

I can't argue with the guys- Alclad is  the easiest I've used. If you can just get a perfect undercoat it's almost foolproof.

Bvallot has posted a number of excellent links- let me add though to check YouTube. There are some really good videos on how to use the stuff posted there.  

I've used their Aircraft Aluminum shade and its very good.  Mr. Color metalizers are very good also I haven some Mr. Metal Color Stainless and Mr. Metal Color Dark iron and they look very metallic when buffed.  You're probably gonna want a few different metallic shades to paint different panels on the aircraft.  The Mr. Metal Colors are easier to use but are more pricey.  But they're both excellent for NMF.

thank you very much everyone, i just got it all, gonna use alclad metaliers. i also heard that Mr. Metal color metalizers look very cool.

I have to second what Don and plastic junkie have to say about Aclad. There's just no beating it. They have a site up but it's nothing fancy.  It will provide you what you need to get started.  I would tell you that for your build you need only really get 3 or 4 shades to accomplish what you're looking for in a B-17. You'll be better off testing it on something before getting started on your actual build so that you have a feel for how it will respond. You're Revell 1:48 B-17 will work out just fine too. I have one myself but it's been put on pause. A few after market parts will take it a long way to help it out. True Details can fix you up if the Eduard stuff seems to fidgety. Quickboost has some engine replacements too if it matters. Here are a few sites to reference to help you get started with Alclad:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Alclad.html

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/151736.aspx?sort=ASC&pi240=1

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/155345.aspx

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/157735.aspx

Hope that helps!! =]

I am a big fan of Alclad- I'd recommend it.  Having built scale models for half a century I tried all the old methods- rub and buff, umpteen different aluminum and silver paints, bare metal foil.  Alclad is easier than many methods, and gives the best results of any.  Only real challenge is getting a good gloss black or other dark color undercoat.  Alclad should be applied in a very thin single coat, so the undercoat must be perfect.  While many paints cover a multitude of sins, alclad does not!

IMO, Alclad will give you the BEST metal finish hands down. Alclad gives that metallic tone no other product can mimic. A while back I used it on a Sea Fury scheme that called for NMF and it just blew my mind away at how much it looked like actual polished metal.

I'd use the metalizers.  I haven't used acrylic metallic paints but I've gotten decent results using enamel metallic paints.  IMHO the results are much better using the metalizers.  

Can't comment on the B-17 kit, I never built it.  I have seen many outstanding finished models of it though.