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1/48 Hasegawa A6M2 Model 21 Pearl Harbor Zero (Niihau Incident) FINISHED...

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  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
1/48 Hasegawa A6M2 Model 21 Pearl Harbor Zero (Niihau Incident) FINISHED...
Posted by lawdog114 on Saturday, January 3, 2015 1:48 AM

This may be a first for me, building the same subject back-to-back.  After building a Hasegawa Model A6M3 Model 22 (ok..not exactly the same), I decided I needed a Pearl Harbor Model 21 Zero in my collection.  During research for this endeavor, I came across a story I read about years ago.  It involved Airman First Class Shigenori Nishikaichi, who piloted A6M2b  "BII-120"  from carrier Hiryu during the attack on Pearl Harbor.  

Nishikaichi was part of the second wave attack on Pearl Harbor and was tasked with bomber escort and subsequent attacks on airfields.  His plane was hit and was losing fuel rapidly.  Instead of trying to make it back to Hiryu, he opted to make an emergency landing on Niihau Island, which is the western-most Hawaiian island.  Japanese intel mistakenly thought the island was uninhabited and chose it as a destination for damaged Japanese planes to land and await rescue.  On Nishikaiachi's landing, his wheels caught a fence and the zero bellied in which damaged it beyond repair.  He would later try to burn the plane but only succeeded in destroying the cockpit (below).   

After the landing, a local farmer on the island took the dazed pilot's pistol and papework.  What happened over the next few days would be one of the deciding factors regarding the controversial interment of Japanese Americans during WW2.  To condense a relatively long story for our purposes here, Nishikaiachi enlisted (more like brainwashed) the assistance of a local farmer of Japanese ancestry and the pair made vain attempts at trying to get his paperwork back from the initial farmer so Nishikaiachi could escape.  Locals eventually became aware of the attack on Pearl Harbor and had no interest in aiding Hishikaiachi in his endeavor.  Nishikaiachi, along with the Japanese farmer, then chose to use intimdation and force to retrieve the property.  They found some guns and even retrieved the machine guns from the Zero as an additional persuasive measure. They held the islanders hostage and a confrontation eventually took place where Nishikaiachi was "body-slammed" into a stone wall by an immense Hawaiian Cowboy named "Ben" Kanahele.  During this struggle, Nishikaiachi managed to pull a pistol from his boot and shoot Ben three times in the process.  This apparently only angered him further.  Ben's wife then slit the injured pilot's throat which then ended his life. His Japanese cohort then took his own life. 

Interestingly, Ben Kanahele was awarded a Medal of Merit and a Purple Heart for his actions. Nishikaiachi was recognized as well and a statue in his honor has been erected in his hometown in Japan. As I indicated earlier, US authorities got wind of what happened and it allegedly played a part in the decision for the interment. 

These are the type of stories that inpsire me........modeling history.  I shall endeavor to build BII-120 as it appeared on the Hiryu before take off on the day of infamy. 

 

Now on to the model.  I found a Model 21 on Ebay relatively cheap.  It's the training version but has the necessary parts to build a normal Model 21.  I have an old Berna decal sheet left over from my Sakai build which will allow me the ability to piece together the markings needed.  Aftermarket will consist of an Ultracast seat. 

I figure BII-120 was an early Mitsubishi-built Zero and was probably in new condition.  I will weather accordingly.  The cockpit was first.  I used XF-71 Cockpit Green with a touch of XF-49 Khaki to brown it up a bit.  The dials are the kit decals.  The OOB pit decent and the Ultracast seat goes along way in improving it.  If you would like to see how I do my cockpits, there is a step-by-step tutorial in the following build thread....http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/160714.aspx

It wasn't long before I got to the airframe.  These are fairly simple.  Here we have a test fit. 

All looked good on test fit, but I ended up have some minor wing root issues when I later primered the joints.  The wing was slightly thicker than the root itself which left a step, so I had to do some sanding.  Perhaps operator error, but I recall similar issues with my Sakai zero.  .

Next I rig the Sakae 12.    Stay tuned...

Joe

 

 

 

 

 

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by KnightTemplar5150 on Saturday, January 3, 2015 8:26 AM
That is truly an incredible story, Joe! It looks like you are doing it justice with your build - nice work!
  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Saturday, January 3, 2015 11:35 AM

Looks like we are building nearly the same thing, again. I am struggling with just what color I should paint my bird. I quite torn over the debate of white, grey, tan, etc. I will be keen to see what you do with yours. As usual, it looks super nice.

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: Lancaster, South Carolina
Posted by Devil Dawg on Saturday, January 3, 2015 12:01 PM

Awesome background story, Lawdog! Looking forward to seeing your final results with this build.

Devil Dawg

On The Bench: Tamiya 1/32nd Mitsubishi A6M5 Model 52 Zeke For Japanese Group Build

Build one at a time? Hah! That'll be the day!!

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: North Pole, Alaska
Posted by richs26 on Saturday, January 3, 2015 2:14 PM

IIRC, going through the relics section of the j-aircraft site, there were paint samples collected from this aircraft.

WIP:  Monogram 1/72 B-26 (Snaptite) as 73rd BS B-26, 40-1408, torpedo bomber attempt on Ryujo

Monogram 1/72 B-26 (Snaptite) as 22nd BG B-26, 7-Mile Drome, New Guinea

Minicraft 1/72 B-24D as LB-30, AL-613, "Tough Boy", 28th Composite Group

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Sunday, January 4, 2015 3:17 AM

BrandonK

Looks like we are building nearly the same thing, again. I am struggling with just what color I should paint my bird. I quite torn over the debate of white, grey, tan, etc. I will be keen to see what you do with yours. As usual, it looks super nice.

Thanks guys. 

Brandon, indeed all of the Pearl Harbor Zeros were pretty much alike other than the tail codes and such.  Heck, I have a Model 21 decal sheet that has every tail code possible from all carriers.  Too bad its a Hasegawa sheet.  The color is a debate that will never end.  That said, its my opinion that Tamiya's XF-76 Grey Green is the correct color for the early Zero, at least for scale modeling purposes.  It will get some light weathering since these planes were fairly new, but otherwise right out of the bottle.     

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Charleston, SC
Posted by sanderson_91 on Sunday, January 4, 2015 9:22 AM

Great looking Zero, Joe!  

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by VN750 on Sunday, January 4, 2015 11:09 AM

Great story and looks like your Zero is on its way to a great finish.

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Sunday, January 4, 2015 1:12 PM

lawdog114

BrandonK

Looks like we are building nearly the same thing, again. I am struggling with just what color I should paint my bird. I quite torn over the debate of white, grey, tan, etc. I will be keen to see what you do with yours. As usual, it looks super nice.

Thanks guys. 

Brandon, indeed all of the Pearl Harbor Zeros were pretty much alike other than the tail codes and such.  Heck, I have a Model 21 decal sheet that has every tail code possible from all carriers.  Too bad its a Hasegawa sheet.  The color is a debate that will never end.  That said, its my opinion that Tamiya's XF-76 Grey Green is the correct color for the early Zero, at least for scale modeling purposes.  It will get some light weathering since these planes were fairly new, but otherwise right out of the bottle.     

Joe

That's odd your XF-76 is so brown or tan. My bottle is very green. It looks like a faded cockpit green to my eye. In fact it is extremely close to XF-14 with the XF-14 tipping ever so slightly to the tan scale, but very little difference. So, I played around with the paints and pallets and decided to use  XF-14 and X-2 in a 1:4 ratio. It really lightens up the color and appears a good match to my eye. But, hey that's kinda what really matters right? How it looks to the builder's eye. Can't wait to see this one done. 

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Maine
Posted by Stage_Left on Sunday, January 4, 2015 1:16 PM

Joe- as the others said, great background story and great start to this build. Looking forward to your progress.

Dave

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Sunday, January 4, 2015 11:22 PM

Thanks folks.  Brandon, exactly......we build for ourselves right?  Thats an argument nobody will ever win.  I think I have XF-14 so I may mess around with your mixture and see how it looks.  

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Monday, January 5, 2015 10:20 AM

I love finding and learning about stories like this one.  Thanks for bringing it here.  It's important to remember.  Looking forward to seeing this come together.  =]

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Brunswick, Ohio
Posted by Buckeye on Monday, January 5, 2015 11:29 AM

Very interesting history there and it looks like you are off to another great start.

Mike

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Wednesday, January 7, 2015 9:26 PM

Thanks guys.  I got some work done yesterday.  I started with rigging the Sakae 12.  I did it the exact same way as I did the A6M3 22 zero, only this time, I sprayed the rods and contact points black before gluing it to the engine.  Mistake.....This made it very hard to see where to attach the fuse wire to the ignition points.  Anyways, I got it rigged.

After a wash and a blast of X-19 Smoke..

A test fit in the cowl...what a difference the wires make.

  

On to the paint scheme.  From now on I will paint in the Hinomarus on Japanese subjects.  This is easily achieved with a circle template and a fresh Exacto.  I also sprayed in the blue Hiryu fuselage bands with XF-8 Flat Blue lightened with XF-2 Flat White until it matched the spare Hasgawa decal sheet I had.  This was then taped off to be ready for the color scheme...

It was then time for the much controversial early Zero color.  I've seen everything from Model Master SAC Bomber Tan to Floquil Old Concrete for this elusive color.  To each their own but my eye prefers XF-76 IJN Grey Green.  Here's how it looks straight from the bottle with my particular lighting situation.  

I lightened the control surfaces by adding XF-2 Flat White to the base color and I did some light condensation streaking as well. This was followed up with a postshade around the engine and control surfaces,  I also sprayed the cowl XF-1 Flat Black mixed with XF-8 Flat Blue to make my interpretation of Mitsubishi Cowl Black. 

Thats where I left off...stay tuned for more soon...

Joe 

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Borlando Fla home of the rat
Posted by TREYZX10R on Wednesday, January 7, 2015 9:58 PM

Wow Joe this is looking great,nice back story to go along with it is a huge bonus! Keep up the awesome work,looking forward to the next update!

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Thursday, January 8, 2015 1:50 PM

Looks great Joe, I expected nothing less than awesome.

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Friday, January 9, 2015 7:44 AM

I know I don't have a front ow seat but I am glad I got into the theater.  Looks pretty nice Joe.  But no surprise there.

Marc  

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Monday, January 12, 2015 10:15 PM

Thanks guys.  I'm in for a quick update.  I removed the tape and was pleased with the results.  Gotta love Tamiya tape.  Then the "OCD" bug hit me and I decided I didn't like the wing root seams which had uneven gaps at certain angles.  It just wasn't my best work.  I originally thought they were passable but I changed my mind.  I ended up taping "everything" off except for the offending seams at which I ended up using the Squadron putty/acetone trick to fill the seams.  I then sanded the crap out of the wingroots and repeated all painting steps.  Next time I build one I will fuse the upper wings to the wing root first, then add the lower wing.  Interestingly I did not have these issues with the A6M3 Model 22. I suspect the parts are different for the two versions. 

I also took the opportunity to paint in the wing-walk warning stripes. 

 

Once finished with the "repairs", I sprayed a few coats of Alclad Gloss.  As with pretty much all of my Japanese aircraft, The decals for Nishikaiachi's BII-120 are a hodge-podge of various sheets I had in the spare decal bin.   The BII-120 was pieced together from a Berna decal sheet.

This one is in the home stretch.  I found a nice rendering of the top of the Hiryu so I will try to recreate a section of it for the base. 

Joe 

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by SubarooMike on Monday, January 12, 2015 10:40 PM

Is this their newer or older Zero kit?  

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Monday, January 12, 2015 11:00 PM

Looks good Joe. I had to shelve my kit, near paint too, due to my shattering the rear canopy today. That Tamiya kit have very fragile canopy parts. Ordered a new vacu-form one to fix it. You kit is looking great.

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Monday, January 12, 2015 11:16 PM

Hi, Joe -

Super nice work to date, it's gonna be another hit I'm sure. I'm not aware of the "acetone/ Squadron" deal, what's the benefit, less shrinkage or something? Could you please describe the purpose? Thanks.

Patrick

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 12:48 AM

Mike:  Its Hasegawa's late 90's mold.  I'm not aware of an earlier release.  Perhaps your thinking of Tamiya who have circa 1970's kits along with two new tooled A6M3 and 5 kits available.  The later are beautiful...

Brandon:  Thanks bro.  Thats a bummer about the canopy.  Those Squadon canpies are a pain in the a@@ to cut out, at least for me.  You could try contacting Tamiya.  They're good about parts replacement....try 1-800- 826-4922.  I had the same problem with their N1K1 a few years ago and they sent me a replacement free of charge.  How about some WIP pics of that turkey?

Patrick:  Its cheating.....Invented by Bill Belicheat........nah, Patriot jokes aside it's way of filling seams or gaps without the need for sanding.  I put the putty (I use the green Squadron stuff) in the gap with a toothpick and then dip a Q-tip in fingernail polish remover(regular strength) to remove the excess.  The acetone in the polish remover melts the putty and it wipes right off.  No sanding and rescribing necessary.  There is no shrinking because the putty is designed to be a filler.  You can sand afterwards if needed (as I did on this project), but the gap will still be nicely filled.  This trick might work with other putties as well.  Thanks for the kind words.

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by SubarooMike on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 10:57 AM

lawdog114

Mike:  Its Hasegawa's late 90's mold.  I'm not aware of an earlier release.  Perhaps your thinking of Tamiya who have circa 1970's kits along with two new tooled A6M3 and 5 kits available.  The later are beautiful...

Yes!  Last night I realized you were building a Hasa thus catching my folly.  For what ever reason, I  could not post from my iPhone, but I was going to let you know I was thinking of Tamiya.    But soon I plan on picking up one of the new tooled Tamiys Zeros.  From what I have read, I will not be disappointed 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by SubarooMike on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 3:26 PM

Lawdog114, you saved me with that Tamiya help number!    I was working on my F4F today and ruined a piece.  I gave Tamiya USA a call with the number you provided me and in 7 minuted and 23 seconds I had a new part on the way.  AMAZING customer service!  Thanks for posting that

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Charleston, SC
Posted by sanderson_91 on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 6:11 PM

Joe,

Thanks for the tip with the finger nail polish remover.  I will definitely give it a try once I buy some.

Steve

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 7:53 PM

Mike:  Indeed the new tooled zeros are awesome.  I built their A6M5 last year and it was a blissful experience. See it here  http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/160003.aspx  Now if they would just give us a Model 21.

Mike:  Your Welcome.  Thats why they are at the top of their game.  Now Hasegawa on the other hand...good luck. 

Steve:  Just make sure its regular strength acetone.  Extra strength is too strong for this purpose.

Joe

 

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by SubarooMike on Wednesday, January 14, 2015 10:14 AM

I will be spraying XF-76 today.  What did you lighten it up with for the streaking, fading, and fabric surfaces?

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by Chanter on Wednesday, January 14, 2015 11:14 AM

Looking great Joe.  I have a couple of quick questions if you don't mind.

When you do your IPs with decals, do you cut the individual dials out and place them? 

Do you mask, do you de-tack (for lack of a better word) your tape first?  Stick it to jeans or something a couple of times before using on the model.  More often than not, I get a bit of paint lifing when I remove my mask and I use Tamiya acrylics and Tamiya tape.

Thx,

Allen

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, January 14, 2015 11:47 AM

Again the beautiful work I've come to expect of you Joe- bravo!

Btw: As to the Squadron putty/acetone trick I used it for years but recently someone on this forum pointed out Perfect Plastic Putty which thins with water, so you can do the same trick without mucking up the paint that you've already laid down. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Toronto, Canada
Posted by Stuart06 on Wednesday, January 14, 2015 1:30 PM

Nice build lawdog

Just a quick question on the panel lines.

In your previous post I noticed you sprayed on black over the panel lines and then covered them with the regular paint so that it shows a faint line...looks very nice.

I tried this too, but my hand is nowhere near steady enough to be straight.  (no matter how li the line is - I go off course).  I was thinking of just brush painting over the line and then spraying over with color.   Have you tried that ever?  Do you think it will give the same effect.

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