Joe;

Great detail work:)  How do you paint the small "spot" colors for the knobs and controls?  I am toying with using the paint pens.  Thanks.

John

Thanks John.  It's just Tamiya paint on the end of a sharp toothpick.  I touch it to the knob or dial and let capillary action do the work.  Sometimes I use a silver metallic Sharpie for the silver knobs.  

Joe

wow right into the next no down time for you. I built there 1/72 zeke a few months back they are scaled down versions of the bigger kits with just as much detail packed in. Be watching this one for sure

Man Joe, you are a machine!  The cockpit looks awesome!

Steve

Joe,

I'm going to request that you quit building kits that I've already built. You're making me look bad!

In all seriousness, I'm really looking forward to watching this build. I know I enjoyed every minute of this kit when I built it.

I can try to dig through my old posts, but I believe there's a trick to painting the black cowl. I think I added some dark blue to the mix.

Anyway, keep up the good work!

If this were WWII, Joe's house would be on the target list, he turns out more A/C than most factories could ever hope to!

Thanks guys....I guess I better build a bomb shelter.  Max, I'm relieved to know the kit builds as well as it looks.  I too add XF-8 Flat Blue to XF-1 Flat Black for my own version of Mitsubishi Cowl Blue.  It makes a world of difference.

Joe

Joe: I know you'll enjoy this one- I'll agree it's one of the best engineered and detailed kits I've ever built. I built one a few years ago but got a bunch of decal silvering for some reason and put her back in the box instead of repainting her. I really need to dust her off and finish.

Thanks Gamera.  It certainly looks like it will be more detailed than the Hasegawa versions, which are somewhat spartan IMO.  Decal issues eh?  Did you use the kit decals or aftermarket?  I've been eyeing the Berna decals.  

Joe

Dammit boy!!!! Another great build!!! Fabulous work as always on these pits of yours Joe..........simply fabulous!!!!!!!!

Thanks Mustang..

I had no decal issues when I built mine. I've found that Tamiya decals require the big guns... Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer. I feel like it's specifically designed for the thicker decals that come with Japanese kits.

Sidebar: is it some sort of translation quirk that causes a lot of products from Japan to have the title Mr.? I was on a family road trip years ago and we saw a place called Mr. Waffles advertised on a sign near the exit. I joked that it was a Japanese waffle place, and sure enough when we drove past, the sign for the restaurant had a picture of a Japanese chef!

Thanks Max...I do have Solvaset and Mr. Mark Setting Solution (green bottle).  I generally don't use them because they're so strong and I've had fairly good luck with Micro Sol..  I have heard the Mr. Mark is good for Hasegawa's decals, but I've never the nerve to try it in fear of another "Techmod Disaster".  Small decalsf like stenciling and IP dials are fine, but I prefer aftermarket for the insignias.  

Thats funny about the "Mr." moniker.  I always thought they were just trying to be cute....or even a tad sarcastic.  I wonder why there's no Mr. Tamiya or Hasegawa?

Joe

I tinkered with the zero a bit last night.  I sealed up the fuselage and added the plugs on the front sides below the gun deck and the gun deck itself.  These fit fine without issue.  i also decided to drill out the gun barrels too.  The cockpit slipped right up from underneath and fit like a glove. 

After the seamwork on the fuselage, I decided to toy with the fit of the wings to the fuselage.  It looks like everything with be a nice fit.  I also test fitted the cowl and used the open flaps, which is an option Hasegawa doesn't give you.  It certainly looks cool to me.  Cripes, more inserts, I guess I have to decide on a specific version before I go any further.   

Next I think I'll work on rigging the engine then perhaps get the canopies masked so those are out of the way...

Joe

it's coming along great, so what version you gona go with?

Joe: Coming along very nicely! You could always buy a couple more kits and build all the versions-hehehe....

I used a set of Zotz brand decals on mine. I have no idea why they silvered, I've used the brand several times before and always had great results with them. The decal I had the most problems with is a large one with lots of clear area linking together the kill markings of a Japanese ace. Just the type that tends to be a problem so I loaded the area with Micro-Sol but it still didn't seem to really suck down in some places. I slit it and applied Micro-Set but it didn't seem to really help. I'm thinking now of slitting it and painting some Future down in the nooks and crannies.

Great looking pit dog, love the shading. This is a beautifully detailed kit that builds great straight OOB.

I actually picked this one up about 3-4 years ago from the clearance rack at Hobby Lobby for $21. Those days are gone.

(Had to check the closet).  Darn!  All I have is the Hasegawa kit.  Bummer! 

I'll just sit back and admire such a beautiful build!

Gary

Thanks guys.  Gary, I've heard the Hasegawa kit is nice...build it!.  In for a brief update.  It is hard to get bench time in this time of year.  There's just so much other stuff that needs to get done around the house.  In the meantime, the Berna decals arrived.  I have decided on 5 kill ace Lt. Commander Minoru Suzuki's Model 52 Zero from Truk Atoll. 

Last night I got the frame assembled.  I truly hate plugs...regardless if they are Hasegawa or Tamiya.  I just never seem to be able to add 'em and forget 'em.  I always have to finnagle something.  I mean how many tails did the zero have that made it necessary to come as a separate part?  My wing gun panels needed to be filled and rescibed because some panel lines were too wide.  Only me I guess.  

The seams were then primered with Alclad Grey Micro.  They came out ok.  I did have the usual issue at the mating surface of the wing and fuselage joint.  This required sanding, filling and rescribing.  I replaced the rivets with a sewing needle in a pin vice. 

I'll probably switch gears and start work on the engine next...

Joe

Awesome work so far! Your builds are always so inspirational! Keep up the great work!

Glad to see you back.  Are you going to be place a drop tank or any ordinance underneath?  I see you still have the hole underneath.  Actually, I just thought about it...I scrolled back up...is that what you meant by "plugs?"

Thanks guys.  Bvallot, I'll add one of the drop tanks.  I might use the one with the fins just to be different.  I can't say I've ever seen one like that before.  Plugs, inserts, parts for different variants, whatever they are called. They use them to get different versions out of the same mold.  The Hasegawa P-40 series always comes to mind.  It makes sense but I alway find them to be a major PITA. 

Joe

A sewing needle in a pin vise................."note to self--remember that". I never thought of that one Joe!

My only complaint.....not enough pics!!!  That interior is fantastic.  Can't wait to see what you do to the exterior.

Mustang, it works great for restoring rivets that were accidentally sanded out.  It's also useful for adding in gun barrels holes.  Tamiya's P-51 B and D come to mind.  Heat up the tip with a lighter, let it cool slightly (otherwise the plastic will melt), then press it in.....a perfect barrel.   If you want it bored out more, go back with a drill bit. 

Thanks Lee.  I try to be picture heavy. 

Last night I turned my attention to the Nakajima Sakae 21.  Except for perhaps the Fw 190, I always rig my radial engines.  They just dont look right without the wiring.  I perused the net to get an idea how the Sakae was wired.  I failed to find good pictures of the actual engine, so I used common sense and fudged it accordingly.  I painted it per the instructions and then added the wire points around the gear box ring with two pieces of .15 styrene rod fused together. I then used some scrap copper wire and made the ignition wires which were attached with instant super glue.  This is how it looks when done.

If you would like a detailed look into how I rig my radials, here's a tutorial: 

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/149327.aspx

I painted the leads Floquil Bright Silver then sprayed the whole thing Testor's Gloss.  The mill was then given a Detailer wash thusly.

It was then Testor's dullcoated and finished off with a dusting of X-19 Smoke to give it a used appearance.  This looks about right to me.

Next I'm going to get the canopy masking out of the way.  Ugh.....

Joe

Joe, this is a pretty good search string for the Sakae 21:

Sakae 21

https://www.google.com/search?q=motor+sakae+21&client=firefox-a&hs=Jq0&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&tbm=isch&imgil=Ouh1zUJe4QTtfM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcSSSf8VLkGCwxL4ecUONWJ_d1V8WINDaKxK6skw_uAsYYM0-Ln-VQ%253B1280%253B960%253BgcCaX7zzuAMebM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.enginehistory.org%25252FJapanese%25252Fnasm_research.shtml&source=iu&usg=__l4c47ESpYno7OGrtejpDel36w6Q%3D&sa=X&ei=Ejp8U9LqKcH8oATWjYC4Bg&ved=0CDgQ9QEwAQ#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=TNVY0zci9y7VCM%253A%3BP94e2u-caN-nRM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.enginehistory.org%252FJapanese%252FMawhinney%252FHomare%25252021%252FIMG_1702.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.enginehistory.org%252FJapanese%252Fnasm_research_4.shtml%3B960%3B1280

Thanks John.  Those are some of the pics I used as a reference, particularly the first one.  Hey, there's my P-47 Pratt and Whitney towards the bottom!  Should I be honored it made a Google search engine?  LOL....

Joe

Great job there Joe, shame most of the engine will be hidden by the cowling!

Thanks Gamera.  I rigged my Type 21 and surprisingly quite a bit could be seen.  The only ones I never rig are FW190's because nothing can be seen behind those fan blades.  

I got the canopies masked (a three hour affair....ugh) and I'm ready for paint.  I should get to it in a few days.

Joe