Correcting a Bad Coat of Future

Depends on what type of paint is underneath.  If it is enamel, you may be able to use simply use soap, water and a toothbrush to scrub it off under running water.  Rubbing alcohol may also help to soften it.

I used Future for years with good results.  I stopped using it and my life got a lot better   Future is slightly over rated in my opinion. 

If it's dry over enamel, Isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol will clean it right off. Windex will too, but not as aggressively.

However, if it's over acrylic, there's no solvent which will remove it without affecting the underlying paint.

I should've stated the paint underneath: Vallejo Model Air acrylic. I haven't tried rubbing alcohol before with Future.  

And SubarooMike, I've used it twice, with varying degrees of success.  Thought the third time will be the decider, but I screwed up the test by not having the PSI where it should've been.  

I can see how taking notes for model making is a good thing.

@Adam148 and SubarooMike: the secret to using Future is to spray a very light mist at high pressure to make the surface of the model sticky... then spray a heavy coat several layers at a time.  This allows the Future to stick to the model and slightly set between layers...  One heavy coat will run and drip unless you "fly" the model in continuous loop-de-loops until it sets.  Using high pressure overspray you can even vary the glossyness on the final coat.

I know how to use it, and can very well.  I just don't like the stuff. Nothing can compete with it on a financial level, but most clears I have used beat it out in performance.  Just my two pennys 

Sorry SubarooMike, didn't mean to imply that you didn't know how to use it... it's just that I see a lot of people get frustrated with it and give up.  Please share what you like better - I'm always open to try new stuff :) Thank you.

Lockon, what psi do you suggest? 25? 30?

I don't like the stuff, except maybe dipping clear canopies.  It's made for floors, not models.

I believe I have also heard that if you put a fresh coat of future over the existing one, the latter will re-liquify. If you can get the heavier areas to soften, you could then wipe it until it's at least thinner in that area. I bet then on a re-spray you could blend it in and cover it up.

Yes, about 30 psi.  Use a resperator though... the room will become a cloud of acrylic.

You know, I just tried again on a test model at 25 and 30psi, using a .6mm needle.  The stuff came out of the airbrush like a firehose.  I'm thinking that size needle is way too big.  Maybe that's the problem I had last night.

Dirkpitt77, that's not my experience. The coat underneath probably won't soften much.. but even if it does, wiping will result in a real mess. I'd either wet sand the dry coat or try to remove it with solvent.  I've often left sags and drips alone rather than trying to fix them. If a dull coat goes over it you'll probably never see it anyway.

Incidentally, I used a clean rag moistened with Windex-type cleaning solution and was able to buff down and smooth out the gloppy spots of Future.  No loss of paint underneath.

Yes, I should have mentioned to use the finest tip you have. If you have a dual action, modulate the flow so that the first coat actually looks dull. Then open up a bit to get a nice gloss but be careful not to hit the same areas over and over.

seasick

It works best on your floor.

I guess you just have to spent more time with it and learn how to use it :) 

If done right, the only thing needed after the final coat is a soft cloth polish and you get a perfect gloss.

A snark out over a frikkin household cleaning product. Hey lets get into it over paper towel.

Lol.. funny that you think it's about cost... equally funny that you think buying a dedicated product will give you better results. All I was trying to do was help out a bit...

Good to hear but you guys use future as a sealer?

Isnt that what sealing laquers are for?

This was an interesting, civil discussion until this comment. I use Future all the time, and it has nothing to do with cost savings. I use it because, well, I like using it. To each their own. Nothing warranted the snarky comment you posted. Your second post about paper towel was quite funny, unless you actually meant it. It's hard to tell when reading on the internet. I'll assume you were making a witty retort. If you really meant it, you need to relax. Obviously model building isn't helping with that.

UlteriorModem

Isnt that what sealing laquers are for?

I guess it depends on what you are doing. I was out of model building for many years so I still remember the Testors yellow glosscote laquer that would all but ruin light gray and white paint schemes. When Tamiya clear came along it was a godsend!  But it had its own issues such as cracking in the early formulas.  Once I found Future I never looked back... yes, it was cheaper, but more important is that it went on thin and perfectly clear. 

Honestly I have not tried any newer products made for modelling but i don't see any compelling reason too...

However, having just discovered Tamiya white primer and gloss wite in the spray can which give astounding results, I'm wondering if their clear spray (assuming they have one) is equally astounding... anyone know?

Try wiping the Future on with a lint-free cloth, much like you would with wipe-on varnishes. Don't overload the cloth.  I have had better luck doing this than trying to air brush it on. Experiment a little and I think you'll be satisfied with the results.  Like most modeling gimmicks, there is a knack to getting it just so, but I have had good luck with it.

I use a wide flat brush. Hey I'm going to give the Tamiya stuff a try in the ole A/B.

I use a soft wide brush and lay several light coats on about 10 minutes apart and get a glass like surface. I then wait a couple of days and apply the decals. Once the decals are dry I brush more Future and once dry I do pin washes the following day. Testors Dull Cote or Alclad Flat Kote will kill the gloss.

I have tried different psi's, different thinning ratios and different air brushes and always get a pebbly finish when sprayed. Alclad Aqua Gloss sprays really smooth and seals up things so it's a very good product that rivals Future but sprays way better for me than Future.

Yes Future was originally designed for floors but how many things and gadgets we use in our hobby that were originally designed for some other use?

Things like makeup application pads with the small handle which is great for blotting decals, applying weathering or metallic powders. How about those tiny dental brushes that are great for cleaning out the tight and small places in an air brush? Q Tips and their hollow plastic handles have a million uses from cleanup duty, smoothening putty, wiping goofs to stretching the hollow plastic handles over a candle to make your own turnbuckles on WW1 aircraft. How about the polishing sticks used on lady's nails? They work great to sand and polish out plastics.

It used to be great  but they have since changed something in the formula (among all the name changes) which is not conducive to modeling any longer.  I've switched to Alclad Gloss and haven't looked back........fantastic stuff.  

Joe

I usually use it straight from the bottle (I must admit that it is several years old - still says Future) and spray at around 18-25 psi.  I go slowly and apply light coats.  I dont think that  I ever encountered the problem that you had, but have had it finish in a pebbly surface.  I have fixed that in the past with a soft rag with 91% isopropyl alchol.  I wiped the finish down generally in the direction of the airflow, once it dried again it was smooth as silk and glossy.

I have since switched to Alclad gloss ( the aqua version) and agree with Joe, works great and is super easy to use.  I still will dip the canopies and some lenses in Future though.