Correcting a Bad Coat of Future

OK, let's keep it civil.

The thread is about fixing an issue with Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (what was once Future). Saying and repeating that you don't use it and why you don't use it isn't conducive to the conversation.

Snark isn't conducive either.

It seems that Adam has figured out a solution, and is working on the orange peel in the meantime. If you don't have a suggestion for correcting a problem after using PFM, please move on to another topic.

Tim

Well... you do *walk* on floors with shoes but most of us don't walk on our models... the point here is that someone asked for advice on how to use Future and some of us who have learned to use it to great effect are trying to help in that regard... therefore, likewise, if you don't want to use it then don't!

Silver

To repair Future is often impossible w/out damaging the work behind it.

Silver

The best thing is not to use Future at all.Enamel or acrylic glosses dry harder and have better quality chemicals

Silver

To repair Future is often impossible w/out damaging the work behind it.Golss no spar varnish out shines anything when fully cured in a dust free dry environment.It dries hard and last for many years.I seal my metal finish w/gloss varnish then eight years later it looks the same like it was done an hour ago.also Future holds finger prints real good...

First of all, Future is an acrylic and it does dry very hard (it is, after all, designed to be walked on!).  Second, how would you have any idea about the "quality" of the chemicals?

Future is super easy to repair (smooth out, remove finger prints, etc): wet sand using Micromesh (or similar) from about 3200 grit working your way up to finer grades, then use a soft cotton rag for the final buff. 

I have airliners that are over ten years old finished in Future and they look perfect to this day...

AHA , Mike :

    I always wondered about that . I have used the stuff on and off with mixed results .When I put it on my latest two aircraft to do decals it came out darned near the same texture as the paint and the same semi- gloss !

     Changed the air pressure and tried again with it straight from the bottle . Same results . It is now used on the floors !

I usually use it straight from the bottle (I must admit that it is several years old - still says Future) and spray at around 18-25 psi.  I go slowly and apply light coats.  I dont think that  I ever encountered the problem that you had, but have had it finish in a pebbly surface.  I have fixed that in the past with a soft rag with 91% isopropyl alchol.  I wiped the finish down generally in the direction of the airflow, once it dried again it was smooth as silk and glossy.

I have since switched to Alclad gloss ( the aqua version) and agree with Joe, works great and is super easy to use.  I still will dip the canopies and some lenses in Future though.

It used to be great  but they have since changed something in the formula (among all the name changes) which is not conducive to modeling any longer.  I've switched to Alclad Gloss and haven't looked back........fantastic stuff.  

Joe

I use a soft wide brush and lay several light coats on about 10 minutes apart and get a glass like surface. I then wait a couple of days and apply the decals. Once the decals are dry I brush more Future and once dry I do pin washes the following day. Testors Dull Cote or Alclad Flat Kote will kill the gloss.

I have tried different psi's, different thinning ratios and different air brushes and always get a pebbly finish when sprayed. Alclad Aqua Gloss sprays really smooth and seals up things so it's a very good product that rivals Future but sprays way better for me than Future.

Yes Future was originally designed for floors but how many things and gadgets we use in our hobby that were originally designed for some other use?

Things like makeup application pads with the small handle which is great for blotting decals, applying weathering or metallic powders. How about those tiny dental brushes that are great for cleaning out the tight and small places in an air brush? Q Tips and their hollow plastic handles have a million uses from cleanup duty, smoothening putty, wiping goofs to stretching the hollow plastic handles over a candle to make your own turnbuckles on WW1 aircraft. How about the polishing sticks used on lady's nails? They work great to sand and polish out plastics.

I use a wide flat brush. Hey I'm going to give the Tamiya stuff a try in the ole A/B.

Try wiping the Future on with a lint-free cloth, much like you would with wipe-on varnishes. Don't overload the cloth.  I have had better luck doing this than trying to air brush it on. Experiment a little and I think you'll be satisfied with the results.  Like most modeling gimmicks, there is a knack to getting it just so, but I have had good luck with it.

UlteriorModem

Isnt that what sealing laquers are for?

I guess it depends on what you are doing. I was out of model building for many years so I still remember the Testors yellow glosscote laquer that would all but ruin light gray and white paint schemes. When Tamiya clear came along it was a godsend!  But it had its own issues such as cracking in the early formulas.  Once I found Future I never looked back... yes, it was cheaper, but more important is that it went on thin and perfectly clear. 

Honestly I have not tried any newer products made for modelling but i don't see any compelling reason too...

However, having just discovered Tamiya white primer and gloss wite in the spray can which give astounding results, I'm wondering if their clear spray (assuming they have one) is equally astounding... anyone know?

This was an interesting, civil discussion until this comment. I use Future all the time, and it has nothing to do with cost savings. I use it because, well, I like using it. To each their own. Nothing warranted the snarky comment you posted. Your second post about paper towel was quite funny, unless you actually meant it. It's hard to tell when reading on the internet. I'll assume you were making a witty retort. If you really meant it, you need to relax. Obviously model building isn't helping with that.

Good to hear but you guys use future as a sealer?

Isnt that what sealing laquers are for?

Lol.. funny that you think it's about cost... equally funny that you think buying a dedicated product will give you better results. All I was trying to do was help out a bit...

A snark out over a frikkin household cleaning product. Hey lets get into it over paper towel.

seasick

It works best on your floor.

I guess you just have to spent more time with it and learn how to use it :) 

If done right, the only thing needed after the final coat is a soft cloth polish and you get a perfect gloss.

Yes, I should have mentioned to use the finest tip you have. If you have a dual action, modulate the flow so that the first coat actually looks dull. Then open up a bit to get a nice gloss but be careful not to hit the same areas over and over.

Incidentally, I used a clean rag moistened with Windex-type cleaning solution and was able to buff down and smooth out the gloppy spots of Future.  No loss of paint underneath.

Dirkpitt77, that's not my experience. The coat underneath probably won't soften much.. but even if it does, wiping will result in a real mess. I'd either wet sand the dry coat or try to remove it with solvent.  I've often left sags and drips alone rather than trying to fix them. If a dull coat goes over it you'll probably never see it anyway.

You know, I just tried again on a test model at 25 and 30psi, using a .6mm needle.  The stuff came out of the airbrush like a firehose.  I'm thinking that size needle is way too big.  Maybe that's the problem I had last night.

Yes, about 30 psi.  Use a resperator though... the room will become a cloud of acrylic.

I believe I have also heard that if you put a fresh coat of future over the existing one, the latter will re-liquify. If you can get the heavier areas to soften, you could then wipe it until it's at least thinner in that area. I bet then on a re-spray you could blend it in and cover it up.

I don't like the stuff, except maybe dipping clear canopies.  It's made for floors, not models.

Lockon, what psi do you suggest? 25? 30?