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I want to do a biplane but I don't know anything about planes from WWI

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  • Member since
    November 2011
I want to do a biplane but I don't know anything about planes from WWI
Posted by Newtothis on Thursday, December 3, 2015 4:50 AM

Hey all!

I'm looking to do a biplane. . . never done one before but the idea of all that rigging and wires appeals to me.

I'm after suggestions.  My requirements are that it's a good detailed model which fits well, preferably a metal-finished nose (like the Hawker Hart), and beautiful looking. [edit:  I like 1/32 mostly].

 

If you can link to appealing photos that would be nice too.

  • Member since
    November 2015
Posted by The Migrant on Thursday, December 3, 2015 7:37 AM

1/32? Biplanes? WW1? You can't do any better than Wingnut Wings kits. Check out their site (http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/) which includes build ups of all their kits as well as loads of reference material on each aircraft. They are superb kits.

You mentioned the Hawker Hart. I'm not aware of any between-the-wars RAF subjects in 1/32 scale, other than expensive resin kits. Hasegawa produced some 1930s Boeing biplanes in this scale (nice and colourful). They're older 70s kits but still build well.

There are some other 1/32 WW1 subjects from smaller producers like Roden and Special Hobby, a Google search should throw out some possibilities.

Mike G

Western Canada

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Summerville, SC
Posted by jeffpez on Thursday, December 3, 2015 7:40 AM

Try Wingnut Wings. They have a great online catalog with extensive information on each of their kits including the entire instruction book (typically in color). I've built two and loved both. The fit and detail are excellent. Shipping from New Zealand takes about two weeks.

  • Member since
    November 2011
Posted by Newtothis on Thursday, December 3, 2015 8:14 AM

Thank you both.  I have stumbled across the wingnuts kits previously, but I was after some testimonials, so thanks!!  I've never built a resin kit before but willing to give it a shot :) .  I think they do a Hawker Hart :) .

 

Cheers again.

-

Tom

  • Member since
    November 2015
Posted by The Migrant on Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:00 AM

Hi Tom, there are resin 1/32 kits of the Hawker Hart, the Hawker Demon, Fiat CR.32 and several other biplane subjects produced by Silver Wings (http://www.silverwings.pl/scale-132-ii.html).

I've never personally seen any of their kits, but there's a fairly comprehensive review of the Hart kit on Aeroscale (http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=features&file=view&artid=4041)

Mike G

Western Canada

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:14 AM

The Fokker triplane and the Junker biplane of WW1 both feature very little rigging.  The Tripe is an especially good model to start with.  There are some excellent kits available, including the old R/M 1:28 scale one.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:23 AM
Testimonials for Wingnut Wings kits abound online.  If you find a bad testimonial I would venture to say you must question every word that comes out of that persons mouth for the rest of their life. Wink  I've done 6, 3 personal and 3 commission, and have more in the stash.  I would buid 1 or 2 of these, to get the hang of how the WWI birds got together,  before tackling the all resin kits.  

Marc  

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Thursday, December 3, 2015 10:26 AM

The silver wings look great, but I won't buy from anyone who won't give me a price up front.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    November 2015
Posted by The Migrant on Thursday, December 3, 2015 12:57 PM

modelcrazy

The silver wings look great, but I won't buy from anyone who won't give me a price up front. 

 

That's a good point, I hadn't noticed the lack of pricing on their site. Looks like you have to go through the whole ordering process before finding out the cost 

 

Mike G

Western Canada

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, December 3, 2015 1:03 PM

As an intro to WW1, I would stick with plastic. Any resin kit I've ever built of that era needs a lot of scratchbuilding. Even if the manufacturer bless them supplies you with all of the struts, they are seldom usable at all, require lots of clean up and never seem crisp.

Replacing all of that stuff is straightforward, but frustrating if not anticipated.

WnW are the class of the bunch, for sure. However they are very expensive. My own opinion is that I'll build one some day when I feel up to it, but I'm not that good.

Roden makes all kinds of plastic WW1 models. I'd build through a number of those.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    October 2011
  • From: Lake Villa, Illinois
Posted by Chuck Davis on Thursday, December 3, 2015 2:00 PM
My two cents – if you want a biplane in 1/32, go with Wingnut Wings or Roden.  I’ve built 3 Roden kits and 15 Wingnut kits.  If you’re okay with the cost, hands down go with Wingnuts.  Actually, the Roden kits are often not that much cheaper (~$10 – 15 U.S.?).  In general, Roden decals are hard to work with.  I’ve heard using a hot air dryer instead of setting solution may help.  They do nice work – their Spads and DH.2 come to mind – but I’d still vote for Wingnuts.  They’re the “Tamiya of WW1”
As for the ‘tween wars stuff, the old Hasegawa kits are decent, and there are some aftermarket details and decals still available for them.  The Silver Wings kits are very nice – haven’t built mine yet – and are definitely expensive.  There are some US shops that carry Silver Wings, so it may pay to poke around.  For what it’s worth, I’ve ordered direct from them and gotten great service.

 

Hope that Helps!  Looking forward to seeing some pictures show up at some point…bipes are a blast!

Chuck Davis

  • Member since
    November 2011
Posted by Newtothis on Thursday, December 3, 2015 5:49 PM

Thanks again all, this has been really useful.

I think I will go with the Wingnut Wings Sopwith Snipe - such a cool looking little plane!!  

It is one of their less expensive models and will come up beautifully. 

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Katy, TX
Posted by Aggieman on Thursday, December 3, 2015 5:58 PM

Take a look at Bob's Buckles. He makes tiny 1/32 turnbuckles for the rigging  that look awesome on WWI warbirds. Not real expensive either.

  • Member since
    November 2011
Posted by Newtothis on Thursday, December 3, 2015 6:01 PM

While I'm doing my preliminary thinking about this, what material is used for the rigging?  On good models, it doesn't look like cotton, but it's very fine.  

I've tried to stretch sprues in the past and I've found it very difficult, but I could have a bad technique. . . 

  • Member since
    October 2011
  • From: Lake Villa, Illinois
Posted by Chuck Davis on Thursday, December 3, 2015 8:55 PM

For your first try, I'd recommend using a product called EZ Line.  Check the web for sources.  It can be used with Bob's Buckles - they're great, and he's a good guy to deal with.

There's a bunch of good people here on this site that do a great job with rigging and other WW1 techniques - just ask.  Also, I'd recommend a visit to ww1aircraftmodels.com for a great source of techniques and wonderful built models.  Good luck and have fun!

Chuck Davis

  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: 29° 58' N 95° 21' W
Posted by seasick on Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:19 PM

There were some bi-planes in WW2.

Chasing the ultimate build.

  • Member since
    November 2015
Posted by The Migrant on Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:51 PM

Chuck Davis
For your first try, I'd recommend using a product called EZ Line.  Check the web for sources.

 

EZ Line is available from Wingnut Wings:-

EZ Line 

Mike G

Western Canada

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, December 3, 2015 10:28 PM

Newtothis

I've tried to stretch sprues in the past and I've found it very difficult, but I could have a bad technique. . . 

 

No, it's a whole lot harder than it looks. One major factor is the plastic. When you do find one that works, cache it man.

EZ line is great stuff. Some CA glues melt it though, so experiment first.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, December 3, 2015 10:29 PM

seasick

There were some bi-planes in WW2.

Yep. Did the rigging on this one with brass wire, the kind you get in 9" straight lengths.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    November 2011
Posted by Newtothis on Friday, December 4, 2015 2:48 AM

The Migrant

 

 
Chuck Davis
For your first try, I'd recommend using a product called EZ Line.  Check the web for sources.

 

 

EZ Line is available from Wingnut Wings:-

EZ Line 

 

The Migrant

 

 
Chuck Davis
For your first try, I'd recommend using a product called EZ Line.  Check the web for sources.

 

 

EZ Line is available from Wingnut Wings:-

EZ Line 

 

 

Ah thanks for the info.  Actually I got it a little cheaper than that on e-bay (just ordered some).

  • Member since
    November 2011
Posted by Newtothis on Friday, December 4, 2015 6:02 AM

I justed ordered a Sopwith Snipe from Wingnut :)  Thanks everyone!

-

Tom

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, December 4, 2015 6:39 AM

New

As the fellas suggested WNW is the Rolls Royce of WWI kits, followed by Roden that IMO would be like a Caddy. WNW has a super detailed booklet included with every kit, all the pe parts you need and the decals are the best I have seen. You can't go wrong with ANY of the many WNW kits available.

As for rigging, I use the thin nylon type invisible thread that comes in several thicknesses and available at Walmart or any arts crafts or fabric store. As for the buckles I make my own by stretching hollowed plastic Q Tip handles from the Dollar Store. It's like stretching sprue but retains the hollow center.  I loop the invisible thread then secure it with a tiny drop of thin CA. You can make tons of them in any size just by controlling the length of the stretch.

Here's a picture of the Eduard EV in 1/48 with my home made turnbuckles.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    November 2011
Posted by Newtothis on Friday, December 4, 2015 7:32 AM

Wow that's really neat work!  Good to know it can be done from scratch!  Sounds like a good technique you've got there, although stretching qtips sounds a bit hit and miss . . . but I should give it a go, lots of other applications for hollow tubing.  There's also the brass tube you can get at hobby shops in a very small guage, but it's always pretty expensive.

  • Member since
    November 2011
Posted by Newtothis on Friday, December 4, 2015 7:41 AM

Another question for the brain's trust:

With all my models I like to sneak in a bit of metal finish here and there whenever I can get away with it.  I am a keen "foiler", but I don't mind occasionally *not* doing entire planes that way too!! Stick out tongue .  I've seen Sopwith Camels with metalic cowls, or just a part of the nose in metal, like this:

I'm thinking of doing a scheme on the Snipe like that.  Anyone believe that would be incredibly unrealistic Embarrassed

  • Member since
    October 2011
  • From: Lake Villa, Illinois
Posted by Chuck Davis on Friday, December 4, 2015 8:15 AM

Newtothis
I'm thinking of doing a scheme on the Snipe like that.  Anyone believe that would be incredibly unrealistic  ?

Actually, both the late and early Snipe kits from WnW have options that include metal cowl panels, so you should be set...and accurate to boot.

BTW I also use stetched qtips in place of brass, and I use nylon monofiliment - medical suture actually - for the wire.  It's less forgiving than EZ Line, but looks good.  This is a WnW "Early" Snipe with suture and turnbuckles from Bob's Buckles:

Chuck Davis

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, December 4, 2015 9:42 AM

      "There were some bi-planes in WW2."

 

During the battle to defend Malta, three Gloster Gladiators put up an epic struggle against the axis, for months before the Brits were able to get through with new Hurricanes.  The planes were called Faith, Hope, and Charity.  Famous exploits- google it.  There was a great book about it too.  And, the Gladiator is a fairly neat looking airplane Smile

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    July 2015
Posted by CajunAce on Saturday, December 5, 2015 6:03 AM

I'm a WW1 Kind of Guy

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Saturday, December 5, 2015 6:30 AM

I've been eyeing the new Edwurd kit.  Looks nice.

Marc  

  • Member since
    November 2011
Posted by Newtothis on Saturday, December 5, 2015 6:13 PM

Newtothis

Another question for the brain's trust:

With all my models I like to sneak in a bit of metal finish here and there whenever I can get away with it.  I am a keen "foiler", but I don't mind occasionally *not* doing entire planes that way too!! Stick out tongue .  I've seen Sopwith Camels with metalic cowls, or just a part of the nose in metal, like this:

I'm thinking of doing a scheme on the Snipe like that.  Anyone believe that would be incredibly unrealistic Embarrassed

 

 

Thanks for this info :) .  No pressure, but do you know of any pics or specific descriptions on-line?

  • Member since
    November 2015
Posted by The Migrant on Saturday, December 5, 2015 6:18 PM

Chuck Davis
This is a WnW "Early" Snipe with suture and turnbuckles from Bob's Buckles:

That's a really nice Snipe model, Chuck.

Mike G

Western Canada

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