I want to do a biplane but I don't know anything about planes from WWI

Chuck Davis

Thanks Mike - it's a great kit.

Hey, New...the easiest way to get the info is to look at the color scheme profiles on Wingnut Wings website.  Go to whichever version of the Snipe you bought, click on the boxart and look for the tab that says "Color Schemes" - that should do it.

 

Thanks again very much.  I feel like I'm on track now :)  

Don Stauffer

      "There were some bi-planes in WW2."

 

During the battle to defend Malta, three Gloster Gladiators put up an epic struggle against the axis, for months before the Brits were able to get through with new Hurricanes.  The planes were called Faith, Hope, and Charity.  Famous exploits- google it.  There was a great book about it too.  And, the Gladiator is a fairly neat looking airplane

 

Thanks Mike - it's a great kit.

Hey, New...the easiest way to get the info is to look at the color scheme profiles on Wingnut Wings website.  Go to whichever version of the Snipe you bought, click on the boxart and look for the tab that says "Color Schemes" - that should do it.

Chuck Davis

This is a WnW "Early" Snipe with suture and turnbuckles from Bob's Buckles:

That's a really nice Snipe model, Chuck.

Newtothis

Another question for the brain's trust:

With all my models I like to sneak in a bit of metal finish here and there whenever I can get away with it.  I am a keen "foiler", but I don't mind occasionally *not* doing entire planes that way too!!  .  I've seen Sopwith Camels with metalic cowls, or just a part of the nose in metal, like this:

I'm thinking of doing a scheme on the Snipe like that.  Anyone believe that would be incredibly unrealistic  ? 

 

Thanks for this info :) .  No pressure, but do you know of any pics or specific descriptions on-line?

I've been eyeing the new Edwurd kit.  Looks nice.

      "There were some bi-planes in WW2."

During the battle to defend Malta, three Gloster Gladiators put up an epic struggle against the axis, for months before the Brits were able to get through with new Hurricanes.  The planes were called Faith, Hope, and Charity.  Famous exploits- google it.  There was a great book about it too.  And, the Gladiator is a fairly neat looking airplane

Newtothis

I'm thinking of doing a scheme on the Snipe like that.  Anyone believe that would be incredibly unrealistic  ?

Actually, both the late and early Snipe kits from WnW have options that include metal cowl panels, so you should be set...and accurate to boot.

BTW I also use stetched qtips in place of brass, and I use nylon monofiliment - medical suture actually - for the wire.  It's less forgiving than EZ Line, but looks good.  This is a WnW "Early" Snipe with suture and turnbuckles from Bob's Buckles:

Another question for the brain's trust:

With all my models I like to sneak in a bit of metal finish here and there whenever I can get away with it.  I am a keen "foiler", but I don't mind occasionally *not* doing entire planes that way too!!  .  I've seen Sopwith Camels with metalic cowls, or just a part of the nose in metal, like this:

I'm thinking of doing a scheme on the Snipe like that.  Anyone believe that would be incredibly unrealistic  ? 

Wow that's really neat work!  Good to know it can be done from scratch!  Sounds like a good technique you've got there, although stretching qtips sounds a bit hit and miss . . . but I should give it a go, lots of other applications for hollow tubing.  There's also the brass tube you can get at hobby shops in a very small guage, but it's always pretty expensive.

New

As the fellas suggested WNW is the Rolls Royce of WWI kits, followed by Roden that IMO would be like a Caddy. WNW has a super detailed booklet included with every kit, all the pe parts you need and the decals are the best I have seen. You can't go wrong with ANY of the many WNW kits available.

As for rigging, I use the thin nylon type invisible thread that comes in several thicknesses and available at Walmart or any arts crafts or fabric store. As for the buckles I make my own by stretching hollowed plastic Q Tip handles from the Dollar Store. It's like stretching sprue but retains the hollow center.  I loop the invisible thread then secure it with a tiny drop of thin CA. You can make tons of them in any size just by controlling the length of the stretch.

Here's a picture of the Eduard EV in 1/48 with my home made turnbuckles.

I justed ordered a Sopwith Snipe from Wingnut :)  Thanks everyone!

-

Tom

The Migrant

 

 

Chuck Davis

For your first try, I'd recommend using a product called EZ Line.  Check the web for sources.

 

 

 

EZ Line is available from Wingnut Wings:-

EZ Line 

 

The Migrant

 

 

Chuck Davis

For your first try, I'd recommend using a product called EZ Line.  Check the web for sources.

 

 

 

EZ Line is available from Wingnut Wings:-

EZ Line 

 

Ah thanks for the info.  Actually I got it a little cheaper than that on e-bay (just ordered some).

seasick

There were some bi-planes in WW2.

Yep. Did the rigging on this one with brass wire, the kind you get in 9" straight lengths.

Newtothis

I've tried to stretch sprues in the past and I've found it very difficult, but I could have a bad technique. . . 

 

EZ line is great stuff. Some CA glues melt it though, so experiment first.

Chuck Davis

For your first try, I'd recommend using a product called EZ Line.  Check the web for sources.

EZ Line is available from Wingnut Wings:-

EZ Line 

There were some bi-planes in WW2.

For your first try, I'd recommend using a product called EZ Line.  Check the web for sources.  It can be used with Bob's Buckles - they're great, and he's a good guy to deal with.

There's a bunch of good people here on this site that do a great job with rigging and other WW1 techniques - just ask.  Also, I'd recommend a visit to ww1aircraftmodels.com for a great source of techniques and wonderful built models.  Good luck and have fun!

While I'm doing my preliminary thinking about this, what material is used for the rigging?  On good models, it doesn't look like cotton, but it's very fine.  

I've tried to stretch sprues in the past and I've found it very difficult, but I could have a bad technique. . . 

Take a look at Bob's Buckles. He makes tiny 1/32 turnbuckles for the rigging  that look awesome on WWI warbirds. Not real expensive either.

Thanks again all, this has been really useful.

I think I will go with the Wingnut Wings Sopwith Snipe - such a cool looking little plane!!  

It is one of their less expensive models and will come up beautifully. 

As an intro to WW1, I would stick with plastic. Any resin kit I've ever built of that era needs a lot of scratchbuilding. Even if the manufacturer bless them supplies you with all of the struts, they are seldom usable at all, require lots of clean up and never seem crisp.

Replacing all of that stuff is straightforward, but frustrating if not anticipated.

WnW are the class of the bunch, for sure. However they are very expensive. My own opinion is that I'll build one some day when I feel up to it, but I'm not that good.

Roden makes all kinds of plastic WW1 models. I'd build through a number of those.

modelcrazy

The silver wings look great, but I won't buy from anyone who won't give me a price up front. 

That's a good point, I hadn't noticed the lack of pricing on their site. Looks like you have to go through the whole ordering process before finding out the cost 

The silver wings look great, but I won't buy from anyone who won't give me a price up front.

The Fokker triplane and the Junker biplane of WW1 both feature very little rigging.  The Tripe is an especially good model to start with.  There are some excellent kits available, including the old R/M 1:28 scale one.

Hi Tom, there are resin 1/32 kits of the Hawker Hart, the Hawker Demon, Fiat CR.32 and several other biplane subjects produced by Silver Wings (http://www.silverwings.pl/scale-132-ii.html).

I've never personally seen any of their kits, but there's a fairly comprehensive review of the Hart kit on Aeroscale (http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=features&file=view&artid=4041)