AM Resin Kits

Toshi,

I'll try to answer some of your questions:

What type of cement is used to assemble a resin set?  CA Glue, but I have used Gator Glue too.

Is a hobby knife used to cut off the flash? Yes, but, I have used a hobby saw and sand paper too.

When the resin kit is completed, what type of cement is used to attach it to styrene? CA Glue.

Is there any special method used to handle resin pieces? I wash the resin pieces before assembly, also I use a mask when sanding the pieces. The dust can be bad if you get it in your lungs. Other than that, resin is not to much different than Styrene.

Hope this helps! Good luck on your F4U!

Ashide from what Bruce is said, resin can be rather brittle, especially the yellow resin you have there. Be very carefful especially with thin parts. I would also recomend test fitting. I often find, at least with 72nd resin cockpits, that the kit cockpit walls need to be thinned to get a good fit.

hogfanfs

Toshi,

I'll try to answer some of your questions:

What type of cement is used to assemble a resin set?  CA Glue, but I have used Gator Glue too.

Is a hobby knife used to cut off the flash? Yes, but, I have used a hobby saw and sand paper too.

When the resin kit is completed, what type of cement is used to attach it to styrene? CA Glue.

Is there any special method used to handle resin pieces? I wash the resin pieces before assembly, also I use a mask when sanding the pieces. The dust can be bad if you get it in your lungs. Other than that, resin is not to much different than Styrene.

Hope this helps! Good luck on your F4U!

 

 

Toshi

Bish

Ashide from what Bruce is said, resin can be rather brittle, especially the yellow resin you have there. Be very carefful especially with thin parts. I would also recomend test fitting. I often find, at least with 72nd resin cockpits, that the kit cockpit walls need to be thinned to get a good fit.

 

Toshi

There are mini saw blades for your x-acto handle that work for thick resin.

lawdog114

A Dremel with the cutting disk installed work well on removing the thicker pour stubs. Messy....but it works.

 

Toshi

seastallion53

There are mini saw blades for your x-acto handle that work for thick resin.

 

Toshi

Yes, those mini-saw blades are definitely well worth it if you're going to be working with resin.  They'll cut through like butter.  

Regarding the use of an Xacto, yeah you can use it but as mentioned earlier, resin is pretty brittle.  If you're trying to remove flash from a fragile part, you're far better off just sanding it off than trying to cut it off.  Think of it this way:  It's like trying to cut a cracker.  You might be able to chip off some smaller pieces but if you're not careful, it'll just break in your hands.  Resin sands down in no time flat so I think you'll be better off sanding rather than cutting.

I'd like to reiterate what others have said.  Resin can be messy with all the dust it produces!  Take precautions especially if you're using something like a Dremel tool to cut or sand the resin.

Best wishes,

Eric 

echolmberg

Yes, those mini-saw blades are definitely well worth it if you're going to be working with resin.  They'll cut through like butter.  

Regarding the use of an Xacto, yeah you can use it but as mentioned earlier, resin is pretty brittle.  If you're trying to remove flash from a fragile part, you're far better off just sanding it off than trying to cut it off.  Think of it this way:  It's like trying to cut a cracker.  You might be able to chip off some smaller pieces but if you're not careful, it'll just break in your hands.  Resin sands down in no time flat so I think you'll be better off sanding rather than cutting.

I'd like to reiterate what others have said.  Resin can be messy with all the dust it produces!  Take precautions especially if you're using something like a Dremel tool to cut or sand the resin.

Best wishes,

Eric 

 

Toshi

 Hi Toshi,

I built this kit and it really needed the resin parts to make it look something more than a toy.  Be very careful with the folding wing assembly and the landing gear.  The parts seem to not take stress well although designed to be movable.  I glued my wings in place and broke the wheel stubs on the landing gear the first time I set the model on them, so I ended up using a set of metal gear and resin wheels and it looked much better.  For working with resin, I broke into using this medium with 1/700 ships and was taught that using a jewelers saw, files, sanding sticks, and a lot of PATIENCE produces the best results.  It never cuts clean if forced with a knife or dull saw, and will fracture, snap, or just shatter. The dremel not only creates annoying, toxic dust, but tends to get away from you and you end up cutting, or sanding away too much. However, once finished, it takes paint much better and the details always come out so much more crisp, so mastering resin is a plus in your model building.  Now, I am waiting for the posting when Mrs. Toshi brings home a RTV and resin mold kit and you start venturing into making your own parts.

PS, I love Eric's analogy of trying to cut a cracker, that about sums it!

scottrc

 Hi Toshi,

I built this kit and it really needed the resin parts to make it look something more than a toy.  Be very careful with the folding wing assembly and the landing gear.  The parts seem to not take stress well although designed to be movable.  I glued my wings in place and broke the wheel stubs on the landing gear the first time I set the model on them, so I ended up using a set of metal gear and resin wheels and it looked much better.  For working with resin, I broke into using this medium with 1/700 ships and was taught that using a jewelers saw, files, sanding sticks, and a lot of PATIENCE produces the best results.  It never cuts clean if forced with a knife or dull saw, and will fracture, snap, or just shatter. The dremel not only creates annoying, toxic dust, but tends to get away from you and you end up cutting, or sanding away too much. However, once finished, it takes paint much better and the details always come out so much more crisp, so mastering resin is a plus in your model building.  Now, I am waiting for the posting when Mrs. Toshi brings home a RTV and resin mold kit and you start venturing into making your own parts.

 

PS, I love Eric's analogy of trying to cut a cracker, that about sums it!

 

Toshi

Hi guys !

I agree with everything said thus far.  For sanding, I made a box out of plywood about 8 inches in height all around.  On the top I attached a piece of perforated pegboard and made extra holes between those found on the board.  I cut a hole in the side of the to attach the shopvac hose.  When sanding, attach the shop vac, turn it on, sand on the box, it sucks in the dust.  I also sometimes attach sand paper to the top in the center leaving the perimeter open depending upon my needs to accept the dust.  Works for me.

Have fun.......

Putsie

Hi guys !

 

I agree with everything said thus far.  For sanding, I made a box out of plywood about 8 inches in height all around.  On the top I attached a piece of perforated pegboard and made extra holes between those found on the board.  I cut a hole in the side of the to attach the shopvac hose.  When sanding, attach the shop vac, turn it on, sand on the box, it sucks in the dust.  I also sometimes attach sand paper to the top in the center leaving the perimeter open depending upon my needs to accept the dust.  Works for me.

Have fun.......

 

Toshi