Revell 1/32 Spitfire Mk2 completed

I'd just cut them out. It seems like a waste to use a full- decal on such a nice looking instrument panel, but maybe that' just me and my terrible luck with IP decals 

I'm positive you'll find a solution to this issue soon.  I'll definately be following.

Toshi

Thanx, I got most of the different pieces for the cockpit painted up and clearcoated ready for weathering, oix to follow.

Theuns

Most of the parts painted and weatherd, assembly next

Theuns

Nice weathering!

Toshi

Latest on the cockpit.

I added thin copper wire to look like the copper tubing they used in the hydrolic system. You can see them going into and from the controller valves. There are also the elecrtical lines running to the fire controll botton on the spade handle top of the collomb.

It would add expense to the project but Eduards Brassin cockpit replacement corrects many issues with the revell cockpit and HGW seatbelts are just the correct finishing touch.

You might like to try Yahu's IP panel for this kit:

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/662720-yahu-models-yma3201-spitfire-mk-ii

Eduard also have their usual sets for this which includes amothgst other items a IP and there are some resin sets out there to correct the intakes under the wing.

Barracuda have a correction set for the ailerons (fabric not metal for the IIa) and oil coolers as the kit ones are for the Vb.

Barracuda number #R32175

http://barracudacals.com/proddetail.php?prod=BR32175

It's the little things that you change that takes this kit up to what it should have been!

Thanx for the links,  am just to in a hurry to roder new stuff, I need this model to be done by the end of Jan/17.

I must also say that the pix show the slightest imperfection and "to me ageing eyes atleast" the model looks less bad LOL.

Interesting fact is that deu to the "lock up" of the ailerons over 400 MPH, in Nov 1940 Spermarine made a test sample of metal covered ailerons that showed the problem to be solved. 

Then Fighter Command ordered a crash program to have frontline Mk1 and 2's fitted with the new ailerons, so I recon by mid to late 1941 the Mk2 I am building would have had metal ones , that is my story and I am sticking to it ;-)

But I do agree that the kit should have been made better from the start, and it is not all that cheap either. If you were to add all the corrections ,one could most lilkely have bought the 1/32 Tamiya kit :-(

Theuns

Here is the basic airframe together. loads of filling and sanding needed :-(

The right hand wingroot fit was baaaad

I completed the sanding of the bottom of the wing fit, rescribed and riveted it, only paint will show if I was successfull....

The canopy fit for the rear section was awfull, it does not line  up atall ad is to narrow, the sliding part should hide it when slid back.

The windshield is a little better but fit is not 100%. Glueing on the armoured glass infront of the windshield is tricky as te tamiya thin cement can wick inbetween the two layers , this time I got away with it though.

Faded dark earth on, just enough shading showing through.

Theuns

I rather used humbrol 163 dark green instead of the normal humbrol 30 wich is way to "blue"

I sprayed the green and brown very thin and uneven to simulate the blotchy way it would fade, I am rather pleased with the results sofar.

The camoflauge looks excellent.  A great job overall!!!

Toshi

Really looking nice so far. Love the work on the office.

Hey Theuns - very nice airbrush work and pit detailing.

I've noticed what you said about the Humbrol RAF dark green.  I've seen several videos of models that were built using the paints in Airfix beginner kits - that are supplied with paint.  They always seemed to be a lighter, more bluish color than the British one's I've built using MM Acrylics version of RAF dk green.   I guess I couldn't say which is right - but I just like the darker, greener shade.

Did You have any problems with warping of the fuselage ?  I built this kit about 6 or 7 years ago and the fuselage had a notable helical twist to it.  I wasn't able to fix it - but as long as you didn't look at it face to face - it was hard to notice.

Chris

Chris, no my fuse halves were OK but the wingfit to fuse was not good.

I have the decals on, they form down well, the one bottom wing roundal cracked a bit when I was forming it, I will have to toutch up the blue.

Brown for the top was my own mix of humbrol 29 I lihtened a bit, the green was humbrol 168 IIRC the interior is Humrol 78 and the bottom is humbrol 90.

I now need to complete the dirtying up then final clearcoat.

Theuns

Paint and weathering turned out OK, I still need to put some oil on the bottom.

The stencling carrier film silvered like mad, even with loads of microsol. I had to carefully put tamiya  thin cement on those areas to desolve the film.

I finally completed this model.It was a real fight in some cases but overall the thing looks like a Mk2 of the 1940's RAF era.

I went for a highly faded look to the paint, the weathering is mostly chipping and exhaust/gun soot stains.

I still need to paint the pilot figure

Yup . that prop is now 0 hours SMOH ;-)

Theuns

Impressive Theuns !

Nice job on the fading/lightening.  Was it a matter of just mixing with white ?  Or did you use some other method ?

Chris

Hi Chris, no I dont alter the paint with white, I just start spraying a colour very lightly and build it up more in some areas than in others to let the primer colour show through a little so that it looks "patchy" faded.

BTW, the colours are a tad darker than in the pix, the bottom is not grey like depicted but actually Sky "S".....the light was very bright when I took the pix with my ancient camera LOL

Theuns

Actually acourding to Revell this is supose to be the new tool kit....

I am not all that sure of it

Theuns