1/48 He-219 (Tamiya)

Now there's a level of patience I don't have.  Nice mask!

Bish

Nice job on that, and thats one impessive mask.

 

Nice job on that, and thats one impessive mask.

Thanks guys, I upgraded from my Badger 150 airbrush, to a new Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. I love it so far. Huge difference.

Here are a few pics of the paper mask I made to initially lay down the camo. It came with the kit, I made a photo copy and glued it to another sheet of paper to make it more rigid. I then cut out all the little camo spots with an Xacto. Took a couple hours total to do. Tonight I need to go back and touch up, then will be ready for a gloss coat, and panel line wash. 

I agree...looks great!

MOOORRRE!!!

Your camo came out waaaay better than alright. Super job

Got the camo laid down. The paper mask I made was useful for getting the spots in place but it produced too hard of an edge. 
I went back and re-sprayed each spot as to feather the edges. I need to go back and touch up some areas. Came out alright I guess. 

The cammo looks fantastic 

Theuns

Thanks for the kind words Leemitcheltree! I actually have been looking to upgrade in the airbrush department. I am going to look at that HP-BH, I have always had Iwata at the top of my list. Do you use the 0.2mm nozzle, or the 0.3mm?

Thanks for the suggestion!

Redman....GREAT work so far!  The 'pit and the exhausts are outstanding!!

BUT.....do yourself a favor.  Save up if you need to...and get yourself a really nice super-fine airbrush for cammo patterns like this.

I bought an Iwata HP-BH with the small color cup.  this thing is WICKED!!!  Double action, with an inbuilt airflow screw - INFINITELY adjustable.  Trust me - once you use something like that, you'll wonder how you EVER painted models without one.

Keep posting pics!  It's looking fantastic!

Thanks ill give that a shot, appreciate the tip. 

Looking great....what scheme are you going with?  Here's one of mine if you need reference.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/171152.aspx

I look forward to more...

If you've only used white glue, you should be able score it...CAREFULLY!...with a nice, sharp blade...remove the canopy...clean up around the edges should be easy enough. Better to do this before proceeding with any paint!

I decided to mask off and install the canopy in preparation for spraying the body color, as some of the camo goes up onto the canopy frame work. Also this protects the painted cockpit, I usually have good luck doing it this way.

However, this time I got the canopy masked off and glued down with white Elmer's glue. After getting a couple of inital light base coats sprayed onto the fuselage, I now hear something rattling around in the cockpit. My guess is the control stick came loose. 

I guess my question is, have any of you guys cracked off the canopy after it has been glued down? I would like to get back in there to fix this, but don't want to make a small problem worse. Anyone have any suggestions as to a good way to get the canopy back off?

Thanks for all the feedback guys, much appreciated.  I hope to begin pre-shading sometime this week. 

fermis

 

 

Redman7176

Those look great! I definitley dont want a sharp edge.The pattern is rather intimidating. 

So....fine needle with low air pressure (10-15psi) and super thinned color for the spots when freehanding? I have a basic double action Badger 150 airbrush. 

 

 

 

 

As far as air p[ressure, you're in the ballpark. I don't thin my paint too much, maybe just a wee bit more than what you normally would...inevitably, at some point, a cramped hand is bound to over-do it on the trigger, leaving a nasty spot! I will dilute the paint with some dull coat...that keeps the mix a little thicker (like you'd normally use), you build up the color slowly. I don't know the ratios, I kinda make it up as I go, until I'm comfortable with it...trial-n-error on a paint mule!

I'm not familiar with the 150. I do have a 155, but I only use it for clear coats, as I can't get a super fine spray pattern out of it. I use a cheap ($20) 2x action a/b from Harbor Freight...I could paint a pin head with that thing and not get any paint on my fingers!

 

 

Bish

fermis, did you do the dark colur first or the light one.

 

 

 

 

You know the rules!!! Lighter colors first!

On that 72nd kit...I did go back with the lighter color though, around the spots, to touch things up....I had a few "slips".

 

 

Thanks. I have seen some people say they go the other way. But i was thinking the same as you and going overit with ba very thin lighter coat after wards. I have a few of the Dragon kits to do and have been putting them off for to long.

Redman7176

Those look great! I definitley dont want a sharp edge.The pattern is rather intimidating. 

So....fine needle with low air pressure (10-15psi) and super thinned color for the spots when freehanding? I have a basic double action Badger 150 airbrush. 

 

As far as air p[ressure, you're in the ballpark. I don't thin my paint too much, maybe just a wee bit more than what you normally would...inevitably, at some point, a cramped hand is bound to over-do it on the trigger, leaving a nasty spot! I will dilute the paint with some dull coat...that keeps the mix a little thicker (like you'd normally use), you build up the color slowly. I don't know the ratios, I kinda make it up as I go, until I'm comfortable with it...trial-n-error on a paint mule!

I'm not familiar with the 150. I do have a 155, but I only use it for clear coats, as I can't get a super fine spray pattern out of it. I use a cheap ($20) 2x action a/b from Harbor Freight...I could paint a pin head with that thing and not get any paint on my fingers!

Bish

fermis, did you do the dark colur first or the light one.

 

You know the rules!!! Lighter colors first!

On that 72nd kit...I did go back with the lighter color though, around the spots, to touch things up....I had a few "slips".

My thumb and forefinger and cramping up just looking at that great camouflage!

Nice airbrushing work! That came out great.

-BD-

Everything looks fantastic, belts inclouded!

Toshi

fermis, did you do the dark colur first or the light one.

Those look great! I definitley dont want a sharp edge.The pattern is rather intimidating. 

So....fine needle with low air pressure (10-15psi) and super thinned color for the spots when freehanding? I have a basic double action Badger 150 airbrush. 

I freehanded the paint jobs on both mine. If you can get a fine/small spray pattern from your a/b, I'd recommend that route, over a paper mask. You'll get a nice soft edge.

This one is 1/72

!/48 Tamiya kit...

It's tedious and hand cramping as all get out, but I think the results are completely worth it!

I prefer to use fabric belts for larger scale builds, in 72nd i don't mind the PE ones to much. Hope your method for the camo turns out, i have managed to avoid it so far myself.

I usually I prefer a nice resin seat with seatbelts moulded in. None available that I could find for this bird. So intsead of the decal seatbelts, I opted for the photo etch belts. 

Love the tip about the Tamiya tape. Thanks for that. 

The camo should definitley be a challenge. Luckily they included a to scale camo layout in the instructions. I think I am going to photocopy the page, and cut out each of the spots with an Xacto, and use as paper mask to get the pattern roughed in. Then go back and adjust/ touch up as necessary. At least that the plan right now. Haha. 

NICE! LOVE this plane!

That rust effect is awesome...would look great on some fuel drums in the background of a base!

Your belts don't look bad. Personally, I really don't like PE belts. I will use the hardware from them though, and replace the strap portions with strips of Tamiya tape. The tape is easy to twist/bend and put in a more "natural" pose. Of all the planes I have climbed into to go fly, the belts were never neatly placed as you see on models. Aside from the newer Cessnas that have a car style belt...lap belts were always on the floor and shoulder straps were always hangin off the back of the seat.