Hummm I only wish my therapist had curves like that...

If I could subscribe I would.

Off to a great start... as usual!!! I admire your ability to just “eyeball” it. I’m starting to get more into paint mixing, but I cheat and use the iModelKit app.

Other than the seatbelts, what did you use from the Eduard etch set? Maybe a couple doodads on the side?

I’ve been collecting bits to make Miss Mutt/Pride of Lodi for an upcoming build, so I’ll be keeping my eye on this one. 

As usual beautiful!!!

Thanks dudes...

I've been working on this one along with the P-51.  I go back and forth between the two.  I decided to knock out the engine first.  I rigged it with .10 plastic styrene rod and some copper speaker wire. 

If you would like to see how I wire up my radials, see the link below. 

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/149327.aspx

Other than a mildly annoying belly seam, the airframe presented no issues. This kit has great fit.  To ensure there are no wingroot gaps, I always glue the top wings in position first and once dry, I add the lowers. It works everytime.

A few weeks ago I was watching a review of AK Interactive Xtreme Metals on You Tube.  They are enamel based and appear quite durable.  The reviewer was pleased with them, so I was intrigued as well. I decided to grab a few, namely Duraluminum, Aluminum, Dark Aluminum, and Matte Aluminum for a test run in comparison to my usual Alclad.  I started with their black microfiller primer. It went down smooth with a matte finish. 

I then gave it an overall coat of Duraluminum.  I was pleased with the coverage and did not experience wingroot pebbling like I do sometimes with Alclad.  

Now it was time to add some different shades of aluminum, namely dark and matte to break up the monotone silver. Here is where I discovered the downside to this product. The enamel takes quite a while to dry, cure if you will.  I found that it scratched easily with a fingernail, so I had to wait a few hours before it cured enough to be taped over.  Alclad dries almost immediately.  For someone like me where my bench time is at a premium, it's an issue.  I used post it notes to tape off the panels where I could.  This is like three days of work....lol.

I used Gunze Olive Drab and added the anti-glare panel.  I faded it a bit with some XF-57 Buff.

Next I added the 56th FG red cowl band then the yellow rudder for the 62nd FS.  

Soon I will be painting in the invasion stripes and markings. 

Looking great so far! Nicely detailed cockpit....

This one will be fun to watch to completion...

Ben

Thanks Ben, nice to have you along...

I'm in for a quick update.  I spent yesterday painting the invasion stripes and the stars and bars.  It was tedious work with Tamiya tape and a ruler, but the end result is way better than decals. 

I used Montex masks for the stars and bars.  They worked great..

Very worth it. 

Here's why I rig my radials.  The final result is very noticeable.

I will be decaling soon.. 

Stripes look great... feeling guilty for using decals lol..  The motor looks fantastic, I am doing more here myself.  As always - looking fantastic.

I could build every kit in my stash and never reach the level you’re at. This looks phenomenal!

Lawdog, I am following this P-47 build very closely. The Jug is probably my all time favorite fighter plane! I have the Tamiya P-47M in my stash. The kit depicts a 56th FG Thunderbolt late in WWII. In your post of August 28, you state that you always attach the upper wing half to the fuselage before attaching the lower wing half. You do this for every build? By attaching the upper wing half you always get correct dihedral, right? Plus no gap between the fuselage and the wing join. I am redoing a Monogram T-28 at the moment and I am going to try this technique of yours to see how well it works for me. As we all know, the wing to fuselage gap on these older kits is always an issue.

Your Thunderbolt build is coming along very well. I aspire to achieve the build quality you have shown here. Modelpalooza is coming up very soon and I will be hunting all the vendors to find the Tamiya Razorback and Bubbletop Thunderbolts to add to my shelf.

Thanks for sharing your build with the rest of us.

It's always a treat to see a WIP from you, Joe.

Looking fantastic, as always.

Thanks for the mini-review of the AK Interactive Xtreme Metals. I used Alclad for my first metal finish last year, and the masked off painting of some wing panels and subsequent fast drying of the individual panels was a stand out treat of the build, so I understand.

Every time I look at one of your builds you do something even better than the last, well done.

I too bought a heap of AK Extreme Metal paints to coat my P51 build, so looking forward to blasting that down. And I'm still deciding on buying my own vinyl cutter or not... 

Exceptional work, keep it up.

Brilliantly done .....as usual!

Such fastidious, neat, and beautiful work!

Do you ever re-use the Montex masks?

What can one say but phenomenal.

Your Friend, Toshi

fotofrank

In your post of August 28, you state that you always attach the upper wing half to the fuselage before attaching the lower wing half. You do this for every build? By attaching the upper wing half you always get correct dihedral, right? Plus no gap between the fuselage and the wing join. I am redoing a Monogram T-28 at the moment and I am going to try this technique of yours to see how well it works for me. As we all know, the wing to fuselage gap on these older kits is always an issue.

Thanks all.  I'm happy to have all of you along.  

Frank, On all my builds I dry fit everything to test the wing root fit before I commit to glue.  If there's a gap, like on most Hasegawa kits, I do it this way. On this kit, which I build quite often, I sometimes have gap issues if I assemble the wings per the instructions. I find it easier to do it this way to ensure a good joint then use tape "wing tip to wing tip" with tension along the bottom to bring the lower joints together.  It works great.    

1943Mike

Do you ever re-use the Montex masks?

Hello Mike, thanks, actually no.  Truth be told, lately I've been having residue issues with these.  Some of the adhesive is getting left behind when I peel them off.  I don'tknow what that's all about.  

lawdog114

 

 

fotofrank

In your post of August 28, you state that you always attach the upper wing half to the fuselage before attaching the lower wing half. You do this for every build? By attaching the upper wing half you always get correct dihedral, right? Plus no gap between the fuselage and the wing join. I am redoing a Monogram T-28 at the moment and I am going to try this technique of yours to see how well it works for me. As we all know, the wing to fuselage gap on these older kits is always an issue.

 

 

 

Thanks all.  I'm happy to have all of you along.  

Frank, On all my builds I dry fit everything to test the wing root fit before I commit to glue.  If there's a gap, like on most Hasegawa kits, I do it this way. On this kit, which I build quite often, I sometimes have gap issues if I assemble the wings per the instructions. I find it easier to do it this way to ensure a good joint then use tape "wing tip to wing tip" with tension along the bottom to bring the lower joints together.  It works great.    

 

Thanks, Lawdog. I'm still closing up the fuselage and I'll be trying GMorrison's method of seam sealing like he did on his Matson clipper. Then I'll be attaching the wings per your method. A guy certainly can learn a lot by hanging out in these forums. I'll keep y'all posted.

Your welcome Frank...

I finally finished this one up.  To recap, it's the Tamiya kit in the 56th FG markings of Fred Christensen's Miss Fire/Rozzie Geth II.  Christensen was a 21.5 kill ace to include 6 in one day on July 7th 1944.

The kit is probably my favorite of all time.  I have a whole shelf full of Tamiya Jugs , mostly courtesy of Hobby Lobby's coupons when they carried the good stuff.  Anyways, I digress, other than PE seat belts, it's completely out of the box. The main decals are from Life Like and the insignias were painted on with Montex masks.

I used the AK interactive Xtreme Metals on it and must say are a mixed bag.  They spray nice and look realistic, but I don't like the slow drying time and it scuffs easily. I think I will probably stick with Alclad.  At least now I know. The weathering is a combination of Flory and AK streaking fluid.  I was going for somewhat used and dirty. Let me know what you think.  

Here it is dressed out for a bomber escort mission.  I may change the wing attachments to bombs.  Thanks for following....

Really nice looking build.  Well done once again!

Very nice.

Your builds get better ever time!

Another great build. You have me itching to pull my P-47M out now.

-BD-

Yeah, just friggin' amazing!!! Love her!!! 

Only complaint is the base looks a little small for a monster like the P-47!!! 

I don't often comment on the forums but I am an avid lurker and make a point of following all of your builds.  Beautiful work lawdog!

Gamera

Only complaint is the base looks a little small for a monster like the P-47!!! 

Thanks all...

Gamera....agreed, I need to make more bases.  It barely fit on this one.  

Awesome work as usual, Joe!

If I might ask a question, I may have missed something but how do you achieve that slight sheen on the nose, on the matte paint parts, like the red on this one? Your paint job on those parts on every bird you build always look amazingly real, with that smooth almost polished finish rather than flat paint. Is it just a result of the washes?