JohnnyK

How do you compare AK Streaking Fluid to other brands of weathering paints?

 

Sorry Johnny, I've been away for a while.  Before AK, I only had experience with water based stuff, like Flory.  I'm starting to love the AK stuff, but I still use the Flory too.  The AK takes some practice to get the right look, but I think I'm starting to get the hang of it.  I'm enjoying the subtle dirty streaks it leaves behind.  

How do you compare AK Streaking Fluid to other brands of weathering paints?

lawdog, I'm trying your wing mounting method on my ancient Monogram T-28. The dihedral looks correct. I had to shim the left wing with a piece of bond paper to get the wings equal. So far so good. I'm gloing to let it sit overnight before I glue the lower wing. I'm liking what I see though. Thanks for the tip.

Fantastic as always Joe. Love the subtle panel shading on the wings

Beautiful metallic finish!! One of these days I’m just going to dive in and try one for myself. 

That's a great-looking Jug, one of what I consider the two 2-3 kits ever manufactured.

What a great model!!! Those seatbelts are outstanding. I love that engine. I agree with you, all radials need a bit of "bling".

MIflyer

happy to see someone not just slap interior green on a P-47, but actually take the time to get that cool, blue-ish Dull Dark Green in there.

Thanks Kevin...

Indeed, good old Dull Dark Green, or Republic Green, although my research has revealed that some early Razorback Jugs did have interior green pits, but I have yet to do one that way.    

E Baker

why are there two National insignias an the bottom of the wing, and why are they different sizes?

Thanks!  

I'm guessing its to avoid friendly fire situations, particularly ground fire from AA.  It's common on the Thunderbolts (and looks cool!).  

Hobbie

how do you achieve that slight sheen on the nose, on the matte paint parts, like the red on this one? Your paint job on those parts on every bird you build always look amazingly real, with that smooth almost polished finish rather than flat paint. Is it just a result of the washes?

Thanks everyone!

Hobbie, I prefer the slight sheen too.  I use good old Testor's Dullcoat cut with Lacquer thinner) (below.  I have yet to find anything better. 

As usual, your radial looks supurb. I enjoyed your commentary on AK metallics, and was SO happy to see someone not just slap interior green on a P-47, but actually take the time to get that cool, blue-ish Dull Dark Green in there. Well done!

I've built this kit in 1/72, but never gotten around to the 1/48 version in my stash. Looks like I should!

More of the cat's pajamas!

lawdog, I picked up a bubbletop and razorback Thunderbolt today at Modelpalooza. Along with eleven other kits to add to my stash.

lawdog114

Your welcome Frank...

I finally finished this one up.  To recap, it's the Tamiya kit in the 56th FG markings of Fred Christensen's Miss Fire/Rozzie Geth II.  Christensen was a 21.5 kill ace to include 6 in one day on July 7th 1944.

 

The kit is probably my favorite of all time.  I have a whole shelf full of Tamiya Jugs , mostly courtesy of Hobby Lobby's coupons when they carried the good stuff.  Anyways, I digress, other than PE seat belts, it's completely out of the box. The main decals are from Life Like and the insignias were painted on with Montex masks.

I used the AK interactive Xtreme Metals on it and must say are a mixed bag.  They spray nice and look realistic, but I don't like the slow drying time and it scuffs easily. I think I will probably stick with Alclad.  At least now I know. The weathering is a combination of Flory and AK streaking fluid.  I was going for somewhat used and dirty. Let me know what you think.  

Here it is dressed out for a bomber escort mission.  I may change the wing attachments to bombs.  Thanks for following....

 

Amazing looking build (lots better than the Monogram 1/48 P-51D I just finished), but have one question: why are there two National insignias an the bottom of the wing, and why are they different sizes?

Well done, Joe.  Base might be a little small, but the effect is it makes the P-47 look properly large.

Great build!!!

I use AK interactive paints myself, and I must say they do get the job done but they flow literally everywhere when you get your airbrush too close to your model When applying it. 

(The photo scale may be a bit weird)

I painted my model first with gloss black enamel paint from Revell, and after that I applied AK Xtreme metal polished aluminium 481. Later I will add another gloss coating. 

since I bought this kit on eBay and it wasn’t properly sealed my decalls literally fall apart when I made them wet. So I ordered new ones and now I’m waiting for those to arrive. 

But after all your model looks great and I‘m almost jealous!!! 

Awesome work as usual, Joe!

If I might ask a question, I may have missed something but how do you achieve that slight sheen on the nose, on the matte paint parts, like the red on this one? Your paint job on those parts on every bird you build always look amazingly real, with that smooth almost polished finish rather than flat paint. Is it just a result of the washes?

Gamera

Only complaint is the base looks a little small for a monster like the P-47!!! 

Thanks all...

Gamera....agreed, I need to make more bases.  It barely fit on this one.  

I don't often comment on the forums but I am an avid lurker and make a point of following all of your builds.  Beautiful work lawdog!

Yeah, just friggin' amazing!!! Love her!!! 

Only complaint is the base looks a little small for a monster like the P-47!!! 

Another great build. You have me itching to pull my P-47M out now.

-BD-

Very nice.

Your builds get better ever time!

Really nice looking build.  Well done once again!

Your welcome Frank...

I finally finished this one up.  To recap, it's the Tamiya kit in the 56th FG markings of Fred Christensen's Miss Fire/Rozzie Geth II.  Christensen was a 21.5 kill ace to include 6 in one day on July 7th 1944.

The kit is probably my favorite of all time.  I have a whole shelf full of Tamiya Jugs , mostly courtesy of Hobby Lobby's coupons when they carried the good stuff.  Anyways, I digress, other than PE seat belts, it's completely out of the box. The main decals are from Life Like and the insignias were painted on with Montex masks.

I used the AK interactive Xtreme Metals on it and must say are a mixed bag.  They spray nice and look realistic, but I don't like the slow drying time and it scuffs easily. I think I will probably stick with Alclad.  At least now I know. The weathering is a combination of Flory and AK streaking fluid.  I was going for somewhat used and dirty. Let me know what you think.  

Here it is dressed out for a bomber escort mission.  I may change the wing attachments to bombs.  Thanks for following....

lawdog114

 

 

fotofrank

In your post of August 28, you state that you always attach the upper wing half to the fuselage before attaching the lower wing half. You do this for every build? By attaching the upper wing half you always get correct dihedral, right? Plus no gap between the fuselage and the wing join. I am redoing a Monogram T-28 at the moment and I am going to try this technique of yours to see how well it works for me. As we all know, the wing to fuselage gap on these older kits is always an issue.

 

 

 

Thanks all.  I'm happy to have all of you along.  

Frank, On all my builds I dry fit everything to test the wing root fit before I commit to glue.  If there's a gap, like on most Hasegawa kits, I do it this way. On this kit, which I build quite often, I sometimes have gap issues if I assemble the wings per the instructions. I find it easier to do it this way to ensure a good joint then use tape "wing tip to wing tip" with tension along the bottom to bring the lower joints together.  It works great.    

 

Thanks, Lawdog. I'm still closing up the fuselage and I'll be trying GMorrison's method of seam sealing like he did on his Matson clipper. Then I'll be attaching the wings per your method. A guy certainly can learn a lot by hanging out in these forums. I'll keep y'all posted.

1943Mike

Do you ever re-use the Montex masks?

Hello Mike, thanks, actually no.  Truth be told, lately I've been having residue issues with these.  Some of the adhesive is getting left behind when I peel them off.  I don'tknow what that's all about.  

fotofrank

In your post of August 28, you state that you always attach the upper wing half to the fuselage before attaching the lower wing half. You do this for every build? By attaching the upper wing half you always get correct dihedral, right? Plus no gap between the fuselage and the wing join. I am redoing a Monogram T-28 at the moment and I am going to try this technique of yours to see how well it works for me. As we all know, the wing to fuselage gap on these older kits is always an issue.

Thanks all.  I'm happy to have all of you along.  

Frank, On all my builds I dry fit everything to test the wing root fit before I commit to glue.  If there's a gap, like on most Hasegawa kits, I do it this way. On this kit, which I build quite often, I sometimes have gap issues if I assemble the wings per the instructions. I find it easier to do it this way to ensure a good joint then use tape "wing tip to wing tip" with tension along the bottom to bring the lower joints together.  It works great.