Additional progress on Maus WIP:

First attempt at pre-shading, not very precise.

Painted with a 50/50 mix of Model Master enamel Panzer Dunkelgelb and Light Gray.

Still not the color I'm looking for, but this was suggested to me on another thread.  I'll go with it and experiment further on future builds.

The search for the appropriate dunkelgelb goes on.  I'll follow up with an irregular (squiggley) patter of Model Master Panzer Olivgrun 1943 and Schokoladenbraun '43. 

Thanks for looking.  Be gentle.  

Looks good to me... but then again, what do I know.  Just curious, what's the issue with the color chosen?

Dunkelgelb (dark yellow) from Model Master comes out too green.  We all expect late war panzers to have a base coat of a tan/yellow.  Another person on another thread suggested this 50/50 mix of Light Gray and Dunkelgelb.  Once I got the paint mixed and sprayed, didn't want to throw the rest away ad start over.

This'll work.  Its just not what I had envisioned.  Thanks for the interest.  Look forward to seeing your P-51.  Is it a "D"?  One of the most beautiful aircraft ever bilt.

MAJ Mike

Dunkelgelb (dark yellow) from Model Master comes out too green.  We all expect late war panzers to have a base coat of a tan/yellow.  Another person on another thread suggested this 50/50 mix of Light Gray and Dunkelgelb.  Once I got the paint mixed and sprayed, didn't want to throw the rest away ad start over.

This'll work.  Its just not what I had envisioned.  Thanks for the interest.  Look forward to seeing your P-51.  Is it a "D"?  One of the most beautiful aircraft ever bilt.

Yeah, I had to look that up (dunkelgelb), I dropped out of German in school... the first week, figured Spanish would be easier.  You can kind of see a little of the yellowish undertone but the grey is pretty overpowering.  I assume the weathering process will make additional changes to give it the "Panzer patina". (whatever that is, i've only seen them in movies, which is not the place for accuracy )  I'm building two P-51D's at once, the Tamiya & Revell kits (just for a personal comparison and for fun).  It has been an education for sure.

Sorry about the German.  I just got used to it when dealing with creatures of the "Dark Side" (armor geeks).  Supposedly the Model master paints match those colors used by the Germans and others during WWI and use the same German designationsI.  So Dunkelgelb (dark yellow) is different from U.S. Gulf War "desert tan".  So I'm attempting to be as historically accurate as possible.  However, the MM dunkelgelb is much greener than any of us expect.  The implication is that the color was more of a yello-tan.

With the Maus, doesn't really matter because the model is essentially alternate history.

Looking forward to seeing the '51's.

The right shade for the dunkelgelb RAL 7028 color is a source for endless debate as i found out there is not a single simple answer for it. The color ranges from anything between a yeloow, sandy color to a distinct greenish mustard color and even shades of brown.

To further complicate matters, the germans got this paint handed out to them in the field where they mixed it up with petrol and/ or water. The color variation is staggering this way. Also the color would change as it was exposed to the elements.

Just googling "dunkelgelb nach muster" will show you what i mean:

http://www.google.nl/search?q=dunkelgelb+nach+muster&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&hl=nl&tab=wi&biw=1011&bih=776

Funny this topic should pop up here since i was tackling the same issue as i am in the painting stage of a german hetzer over at the armor corner. My choice is revell sandy yellow which has a definate green hue to it.

My conclusion: Anyone can say ral7028 is too green, too yellow or too brown and be both right and wrong. Use your gut feeling i would say...

Richard

kermit

The right shade for the dunkelgelb RAL 7028 color is a source for endless debate as i found out there is not a single simple answer for it. The color ranges from anything between a yeloow, sandy color to a distinct greenish mustard color and even shades of brown.

To further complicate matters, the germans got this paint handed out to them in the field where they mixed it up with petrol and/ or water. The color variation is staggering this way. Also the color would change as it was exposed to the elements.

Just googling "dunkelgelb nach muster" will show you what i mean:

http://www.google.nl/search?q=dunkelgelb+nach+muster&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&hl=nl&tab=wi&biw=1011&bih=776

Funny this topic should pop up here since i was tackling the same issue as i am in the painting stage of a german hetzer over at the armor corner. My choice is revell sandy yellow which has a definate green hue to it.

My conclusion: Anyone can say ral7028 is too green, too yellow or too brown and be both right and wrong. Use your gut feeling i would say...

Richard

I agree.  You can see that my 50/50 mix is 'way too gray, but for a fictional panzer, who knows.  Thanks for information, and i like the way the Hetzer's working out.  The figure is especially well done.

Mike, I agree, the yellow looks a bit too gray, but pictures can be deceiving. Any how, its up to you as beauty is in the eye of the model builder. I generally don't worry much about colors. Whatever pleases my eye is what it gets. Any how, you're off to a good start!

kermit

The right shade for the dunkelgelb RAL 7028 color is a source for endless debate as i found out there is not a single simple answer for it. The color ranges from anything between a yeloow, sandy color to a distinct greenish mustard color and even shades of brown.

To further complicate matters, the germans got this paint handed out to them in the field where they mixed it up with petrol and/ or water. The color variation is staggering this way. Also the color would change as it was exposed to the elements.

Just googling "dunkelgelb nach muster" will show you what i mean:

http://www.google.nl/search?q=dunkelgelb+nach+muster&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&hl=nl&tab=wi&biw=1011&bih=776

Funny this topic should pop up here since i was tackling the same issue as i am in the painting stage of a german hetzer over at the armor corner. My choice is revell sandy yellow which has a definate green hue to it.

My conclusion: Anyone can say ral7028 is too green, too yellow or too brown and be both right and wrong. Use your gut feeling i would say...

Richard

And this is why I do aircraft.

Medicman71

And this is why I do aircraft.

Dare I mention debate over RLM (Reichluftsministerium) colors?  I was just trying to simplify matters by using what I thought was close to "official" colors.

Thanks for the kind words.

MAJ Mike

Medicman71:

And this is why I do aircraft.

 

Dare I mention debate over RLM (Reichluftsministerium) colors?  I was just trying to simplify matters by using what I thought was close to "official" colors.

Thanks for the kind words.

And don't even key the terms 'early Zero' and 'ame-iro' into a search engine

At a IPMS show I attended years ago a speaker passed around a card with about a dozen different paint swatchs on it and asked 'which one is US olive drab'? After some discussion the speaker revealed that ALL of them were based on real paint found on Second World War hardware. Depending on which factory turned out the plane or tank OD could be light or dark or more green or brown. I just go with what 'looks right' to me. And she looks good Mike. Keep up the good work.

I did start on the cockpit to the Dark Shark. Going on vacation/holiday for the next two weeks and hopefully will get a chance to start in ernest then.

PS Cool new avatar Kermit- 'every gal is crazy about a sharp dressed frog'

have fun and enjoy your vacation gamera!  I look forward to that Dark Shark.  

Gamera

MAJ Mike:

Medicman71:

And this is why I do aircraft.

 

Dare I mention debate over RLM (Reichluftsministerium) colors?  I was just trying to simplify matters by using what I thought was close to "official" colors.

Thanks for the kind words.

 

And don't even key the terms 'early Zero' and 'ame-iro' into a search engine

At a IPMS show I attended years ago a speaker passed around a card with about a dozen different paint swatchs on it and asked 'which one is US olive drab'? After some discussion the speaker revealed that ALL of them were based on real paint found on Second World War hardware. Depending on which factory turned out the plane or tank OD could be light or dark or more green or brown. I just go with what 'looks right' to me. And she looks good Mike. Keep up the good work.

I did start on the cockpit to the Dark Shark. Going on vacation/holiday for the next two weeks and hopefully will get a chance to start in ernest then.

PS Cool new avatar Kermit- 'every gal is crazy about a sharp dressed frog'

Check out atthefront.com.  He supplies unifiroms for WWII reenactors.  He has a posting that demonstrates the wide variety of the color "khaki" in original uniforms from WWII.  Sometimes we just need to make sure our project "looks right".  After all, this hobby is an expression of our inner artistic Muses. 

I've been caught up in a little bit of real life, but I've found a little bit of time to work on some models late at night--mostly after 9pm!

I started on the A-10, and now I remember why I switched scales! I'm thinking Ill have to hang this one form the ceiling! I'm crossing this over with the Wild Wings GB, and will give it a paint scheme based on a P-40 that I have decals for. Since the paint scheme is going to be USAAF, I painted up the pilot figure to be wearing USAAF gear. I,ve only just started to paint some of the pilot figures, and I think this one turned out very nice!

OWL

Ms. Owl -- off to a good start. 

I'm in a bit of a slump.  After a good start, I'm having a devil of a time dealing with the poor fit of the Maus' deck to the hull and side panels.  I'm tempted to apply a brick to it, but through the miracle of modern chemistry (I took an extra chill pill) I'm giving it a rest.

Look forward to more photos from everybody involved.

Make it a good day.

Looks good, i kinda look at pilots, then give them a one finger salute as they make their final flight to the trash

MAJ Mike

Additional progress on Maus WIP:

First attempt at pre-shading, not very precise.

 

Painted with a 50/50 mix of Model Master enamel Panzer Dunkelgelb and Light Gray.

 

Still not the color I'm looking for, but this was suggested to me on another thread.  I'll go with it and experiment further on future builds.

 

 

The search for the appropriate dunkelgelb goes on.  I'll follow up with an irregular (squiggley) patter of Model Master Panzer Olivgrun 1943 and Schokoladenbraun '43. 

Thanks for looking.  Be gentle.  

BB targets my hind end!  looks great to these two eyes.

I would like to throw my hat in this ring with the Williams Bro.s 1/32 Halls Bulldog , a crossover from the Air Race GB round two.

Howard

sweet! Glad to have you on board. The front page has been updated.  

Started putting the insides together. A rather simple build ( many  Williams Bro.s kits are ). Still ,enough of a challenge that modeling experience is very helpful.

For example , these frames and bulkheads needed some minor flash cleanup (old molds) , a little trimming ( noted in the instruction sheet), and maybe a third hand holding the five parts you see  pictured together while being glued . 

 I probably won't detail the 'pit up beyond seatbelts as the interior of these Golden Age racers were pretty sparse. My main draw to this kit is the overall look of the plane. Which is appropriate with this GB. It is beautifully odd looking. 

Here's a pic of what I've got so far.

Howard

Daddy1

daddy1:  that bracing does look like it needed three hands to put it together. Looking forward for more!

What she said!  That internal frame would drive me crazier than I am now.  Looking forward to additional photos.

  Actually it wasn't too bad . The kit instructions say to hold ,trim, test fit the three bulkheads and frames before gluing. I tack glued the bulkheads in place , one at a time till everything fit together. Then dry fit into the fuselage while I made sure everything stayed straight while the cement dried. 

 Reference pics of the 'pit on these golden age racers is hard to find , so I'll have to use a little license as far as proper colors , the seat ,and what to ad for a bit of busying up. One thing for sure , they were probably pretty bare on the inside so there won't be much to add. The flyers of the day really had some big ones to do what they did with not much more than a pair of wings attached to a big engine.

 Howard

CallSignOWL

daddy1:  that bracing does look like it needed three hands to put it together. Looking forward for more!

Yeah I'd soo mess that up.

agreed,

im not very good at making models, i started when i was 10 and restarted just recently. so that would've been a huge challenge.

I was hoping to post more pics tonight , but  the more I looked at the "wood" bulkheads , just wasn't happy with how the painted grain effect turned out . Blended the paint with a flat brush dampened in turpentine. and will give another try at a effect when dry.  The frame tubes were painted brown oxide primer on the original, so I'll paint that with Testors rust , mixed with a touch of dark brown to tone down the rusty red a little.

 I've also cut a number of thin strips to affix along the inside of the fuselage halves to represent stringers.

 More tomorrow.

Howard

Here's an update on the Maus.

 Added some pioneer tools from a DML Panther II that I gave up on.  The turret is roughly the size of a Soviet T-34/76.  The upper deck has a bow in it and was/will be a challenge.  The radio mounts were in the wrong place and will be repositioned.

I'll add wiring for the lights and a horn. 

 Added towing connectors/hooks to the rear.

Here are the parts for the suspension.

Guess that's enough for now.  Have good weekend, y'all.

MAJ Mike

Here's an update on the Maus.

The upper deck has a bow in it and was/will be a challenge.  

 Have you tried the old hot water soak and gentle bend method to straighten out the deck. May need to attach one end , let dry, then the other end . .

Howard

daddy1

MAJ Mike:

Here's an update on the Maus.

The upper deck has a bow in it and was/will be a challenge.  

 

 Have you tried the old hot water soak and gentle bend method to straighten out the deck. May need to attach one end , let dry, then the other end . .

Howard

Wish I'd have thought of the hot water trick, but I went ahead with the attach one end, etc method.  Wasn't too bad, required significate seam filling and trimming/filing/sanding but it'll look okay after paint and finishing.

Thanks for the tip.  Every model is an experiment for me.