IRON RAILS 2015 GB

Thank you very much.

By the way...that was a fantastic tutorial for doing the track and roadbed, waynec

Duke my friend, long time no build together. Great to see some familiar names!

Wayne we've spoken about this but thats a really good tutorial, I especially like the different shades of the ties because It gives it a more realistic look and the foliage is just right and doesn't  take anything away from the model.

We still have a long time yet on the build, I think we're going to see a lot more fantastic work. Its to bad we lost Hypertex because of a warpage problem with his Stephensen Rocket kit, that looked awesome.

Taps88 - Thank you. There are additional comments in the armor section. Another morning, another 20 pieces on the rear truck. and more to go.

Since I was able to find some time, I decided to start one of my Russian armored trains for this and another railroad-themed Group Build on another Forums that I joined. This model is gonna be a tough one.

This is my UMmt 1/72 scale Russian Armored Train OB-3.

First of all, they have you assemble all the wheels to the axles. So, to make sure they lined up, I put them between two thick sanding sticks that were set parallel to each other:



I competed the two sets of wheels and set them aside to dry. Meanwhile, I figured I'd build the turrets that go on this car. Trouble struck from the start. Trying to remove two parts from the sprues resulted in them, breaking. The gun barrel end snapped off and flew into oblivion, and the mantlet section snapped in half. You can see them indicated by the two arrows:



This is going to be a long build.....

I cut a section of plastic rod that was closest to the size of the third part of the gun barrel; cut the broken part off and replaced it with the styrene rod:



Eventually I got the two turrets assembled that go on this car:



Finally, a fun shot of the car as it will mostly look like with the turrets on. the top half is only snapped in place and the turrets are also just placed in place:



I'd had enough of that so I called it a day by then. Hopefully soon I'll have more to show. Until then, comments are welcome, thanks for looking in.

jibber

Its to bad we lost Hypertex because of a warpage problem with his Stephensen Rocket kit, that looked awesome.

Wow thats great to hear. I was doing a little research on the Hypertex and Henry Fords interest in Railroads, really interesting. I'm looking forward to it.

Duke, what a bad start to a cool train. I hope you can get those problems worked out.

I did some model woodworking by weathering up two storage cases for my Schienenwolf.

Then thee floorboard of the cab on my C-12 Locomotive.

Finally getting more work in.

hypertex

jibber

Its to bad we lost Hypertex because of a warpage problem with his Stephensen Rocket kit, that looked awesome.

Hey jibber, I'm coming back in! I started scratch building a new chassis, even though I can't find the exact dimensions. I'm just going to eyeball it. It'll be tough because I've never scratched any major parts before and I'll need to align everything nice and square. And I can't use the original part as a reference because it shrank when I melted it.

I'll try to post some pics later.

Hypertex - Good to hear. This is why i didn't remove you from the roster.

If it's like most chassis the only 2 important things are: Do the sides fit properly? do the wheels fit properly. NO ONE is going to turn it over to see the detail. 

Thanks Jibber, I've managed to bypass most all of it. I just need to be in the lookout for further possibilities for stuff like this to happen. It's mostly the way they molded this model; any effort to remove certain pieces from the sprues results in too much pressure on the part causing it to snap.

Primary coat and shader coat applied this am. Sorry if the pics came out a bit blurry, I was nervous about breaking off the tiny tie down hooks on the side. I used Tamiya Light Grey and German Grey. Next, I will  get the colors applied to the wood decking.

Jibber,

Some really nice looking woodwork going on there!

Those finicky parts drive me up a wall. You're concentrating on a smooth paint job and not thinking about knocking off a part and what happens, a part breaks at the worst spot ever. Eric you're good, I said it so it'll happen to me.

Thanks for the nice comment and Duke, that certainly falls into a finicky part descriptor.  

Terry

Well, now starting on the wood decking.

I airbrushed the entire top with Tamiya German Grey, as a dark base, which helps to pick up the individual planks. I then hand brushed Tamiya Dark Yellow, starting at the center...outward (following the grain of the wooden planks) Going a bit heavier in some spot  I did not want to airbrush this, as I do not want an even appearance.  This will help when the artist oils are applied in the final wash. It will also darken up, when I apply the wash at the end.

To the top of the Dark yellow, I then added Tamiya Khaki to contrast, just in spots, dragging the brush across.:

Eric a dry brushing with the grain using a couple colors, like a dark brown and a re/brown works for weathering. Very light to start until you get the right blend. Thats what I did on the woodwork a few posts ago, I started with a base color like yours then the dry brushing . Sometimes when I want it to look really used and messy (like the cab floor) I dry brush while the base coat is still a little tacky. I can't explain why but it really gives it a beat up look. If you look close, you'll see a multitude of colors that are haphazardly blended in a pattern that roughly fits foot traffic.

Theres a lot of ways to do it, just something that works for me.

It's really coming along and looking fantastic.

T.

Eric, I rarely buy full sets of weathering products, but one I would never get rid of is this set of Old Wood and Weathering acrylic paint by AK. I use it for any wood part. Very easy to master and a good use of hobby $. I see that they have a second set of a few different colors, maybe another purchase?

My armor being transported, will be Tamiya's Early Panther Type G. I had earlier applied the Eduard Zim and cut off the rear deck. Will work on either the road wheels tonight or if I'm feeling daring...the Verlinden Engine compartment.

I think I may have to get a new weathering set Jibber... Can never have too many secrets in the stash, for sure!!

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A few more parts to assemble then some weathering on my Schienenwolf. The pics show the up (transport) and lower positions. 

Terry - is that a kit? Looks cool.

Eric - i pulled out my flatcar, the number of mistakes exceed the parts but now i want to fix it. I have a pile of basswood strips cut to for for the decking but may not use them since i had to cut the frame apart. My GONDOLA decking was german gray washed with payne gray and raw umber washes and oversprayed with  a light color along the areas where vehicles would drive and be tied down. From my experiences in the BRD the wood deck would be more grayish than brownish. OTOH the wood/khaki deck adds a nice color contrast and a color connection between the darker DY and camo  on the Panther and the gray of the railcar sides.

Trucks are primed. will basecoat on Tuesday after the gym.Think i will start on the carriage but can only go so far before adding the gun.

I decided to go with doing the road wheels and some hull parts, to finish up this evening. I will leave it here for now to dry...my eyes are getting heavy :)

Those Tamiya kits are a lot of fun, never seem to have a fit problem or to many other issues some other companies have.  You're getting close.

Yeah Wayne thats an AGV resin kit with a little white metal and no instructions….but it didn't take to long to figure it out. Not many of these Schienenwolf kits out there for such an interesting subject, should build into a nice diorama but first I need to weather it right.

I thought this dio with both kits wouldn't take that long, but i'm still at it, should get back finishing up the loco soon.  

Terry

I have my ties cut and first coat on. 

Taps88

I decided to go with doing the road wheels and some hull parts, to finish up this evening. I will leave it here for now to dry...my eyes are getting heavy :)

PS...Waynec, I wanted to leave the paint coats just a tad lighter because I know that, when I do the washes, it will really darken it up. It may not be too grey but more on the darkish-brown side.

Hey Eric -  works for me. being a graphic designer i lean more to the artistic school of model painting and weathering which means i have gotten past the my anal fixation with THE correct color. You are right most of the time washes will darken the color BUT you can also lighten a color with whites and toned down base colors.Another example i tend to paint hand tool handles wood even though they would probably be the base color of the vehicle to add some color. 

I would be more sympathetic to your roadwheels if A. i didn't have two 6 axle RR truck and B I do modern military wheels with complete suspension systems and chassis.

Terry - the Tamiya kits are nice not overly engineered. and my washes and weathering just keeps getting better.

trucks and generator cart are primed. trying a lightening technique Karl recommended on my post in the armor section. You guys might want to visit there as i have the gun and the tracks and there are really good suggestions.

Duke - sorry to hear about your difficulties but, given my first go with a UM kit, i'm not surprised,

Terry - is the wood weathering kit powders or oils. i have started making my own powders mixing various pastels chalks as well as mixing oils for washes. Now, with Vallejo dropper bottles, i have started shading my base coats for different effects.

Wayne the AK set are (5) acrylic colors, about $30.

What I used on those two resin storage cases was a light base coat. Then I dry brushed a dark tone then a red/brown to add some color and depth, like it may have been varnished at some time or another.  After some research, I think these were hastily put together. I found several versions in all sorts of setups, these may have been somebody's carpenters tool boxes at one time, but  I think they came out pretty well. The floor of the cab was the same colors in the same sequence but I did them before they dried, still somewhat tacky. I think that technique worked too.

I ordering their second set of more cooler colors in the grey tones, that should give me a full range of any wood.

I have a set of REAL DEAL weathering acrylics i use a lot and a set of REAL DEAL grays i haven't tried yet. Also have a set of Vallejo powders to try.

per a suggestion from Karl in armor i tried mixing the DY with 75% white and overspraying from top down. The first attempt on the Kubelwagen was mixed success. It seems I still have to figure out the right thinning and pressure with Vallejo for that. OTOH since i had some issues, it was easy to mix paints in the airbrush and really lighten the DY which worked. I would post pics bit it really doesn't show in pictures but it is much lighter. I have to remember washes will darken it a bit too.

There were 4 wires that needed bending, guess they couldn't fit them on a sprue. The nail technique is something i use for bending wood planks and deck beams. it tends to work better with something stiffer than this wire but something to consider. WOW just had a brainstorm. I can use this technique to make cargo bed bows for modern trucks. If  plastic soak in hot water, mold and cool, if brass soften it with a torch.

The trucks are primed. The underside is german gray on the assumption they wouldn't waste paint there. like the Gondola, i am not going to spend a lot of time weathering it since NO ONE will be picking the truck up and looking at it, at least not more than once with that hand. a quick misting of red brown and gray mixture. fortunately i could pop the couplers off and brush paint them so they work. Not worried about some overspray except on the ends.

Thats really coming along but what are the wires for.

Nice progress Waynec & Jibber. Glad to see pics of how to really build and weather rolling stock.

I was looking this am and found a picture, of what I am trying to accomplish, with my flatcar. It took a while because a lot of what I have come across, show what looks like to be a freshly laid wood or way over the top dirty.

This is what I am trying for / hoping to achieve: