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1945 GB

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  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Thursday, December 3, 2015 1:13 AM
Checkmate I've got a Flyhawk Derfflinger near the top of the build list. The PE set comes with a wooden deck. Really not sure I want to use it. I'm having a hard time figuring out whether those wood decks are supposed to be painted or not. The most meticulous video on YouTube shows a gent putting one on a 1/350 Prinz Eugen - took some serious time - and then sealed it with varnish. You ever dealt with those things? Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Thursday, December 3, 2015 1:17 PM

Joe:  I wasn't really planning on getting into the '46 GB, since I don't have anything really suitable.  I was giving thought to the aircraft carrier GB, maybe doing USS Yorktown at Midway, if I can collect the information to make the Tamiya kit more accurate.  I look forward to seeing your progress, and I'm glad to offer what I can--but I certainly am no expert on ships.  I just kind of muddle through. 

Jack:  is that the carrier GB you'll be participating in?  Your minesweeper is tiny!  I build a couple of LST's in 1/700 a few years ago--for a WWII Navy veteran assigned to one in the Pacific.  The Japanese sank it out from under him and he ended up floating around until he and the crew were rescued.  What you've got there is very small!

Eric:  nope, I've never used any wooden decks;  I was looking at an aftermarket PE set for Tamiya's Yorktown, and it looks like it comes with a replacement flight deck--in brass?  From the photo, it doesn't really look like wood to me.  

I wasn't too good at wood-working when I had shop classes in junior high, so I stick to plastic these days, mostly.  I wonder if real wood decks look so much different than plastic, after a coat of paint covers them.  I suppose there's some evident difference in texture, but would it be enough to warrant the expense and the trouble it might be to use it?

Thanks for all your comments!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Cincinnati Ohio
Posted by DantheMan85 on Thursday, December 3, 2015 4:53 PM

Thanks Bish.

Thanks Moff: Yeah I noticed after the light coat of future I airbrushed on my M4, the olive drab really darkened. I'm not sure why that happened. It didn't darken my Hetzer paint at all, so I guess there are colors that future will darken, and other it won't.

Thanks Joe Rix: Yes for weathering I'm using a wash and dry-brushing, The only real area you can see the wash is the back engine deck, the wash went into the detail well. The rest was dry-brushing with Tamiya Flat Black and Flat Earth. I got the idea to use the wood from the movie Fury M4 tank, along with Sherman tanks.

Ebergerud: Excellent job on finishing your Spitfire!

Jgeratic: That is one tiny little boat.

Checkmateking: Nice work on the lower hull.

Rob S: Good start to your Bristol, nice interior painting.

Yesterday I airbrushed on a mist of Tamiya XF57 Buff to give a light dust look, a little heavy in the front and lighter behind that. I do plan to add spare tracks in the front, along with a spare wheel. I would like to add a little mud to the tracks but need to practice with my woodland scenic ground cover to see what works.

 

 

On my Work Bench: Tamiya Ford GT 1/24

Up Coming: ?

           

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Thursday, December 3, 2015 8:55 PM
That's nice, Dan. I like faded look you achieved. Looks like it's been running around in the sun. Very appealing in the details.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:22 PM
With the hull pretty much finished, I moved on to the flight deck which needed several modifications.

 

First, there were platforms for aft radio antennae, which Shang didn’t have, so I cut them off (arrow).
Then, CV-38 had two galleries for 20mm guns aft on the starboard side.  That meant the catwalks had to be cut (circled areas above).
 
At the bow, there were tubs on each side for Mk 51 gun directors.  The kit didn't have them.  That meant I had to cut into the catwalks and also come up with the tubs.  Since I couldn’t find anything in the spares box, this meant scratchbuilding.
Finally, on the port side aft, the 40mm tub wasn’t there on CV-38; the aft platform needed a shield around it (there were two 20mm Oerlikon guns placed there), and those pesky little platforms on the starboard side had to go.
And finally, on the underside of the flight deck, port aft, some of the supports had to be cut back to allow the deck to settle correctly on the hull sides.
All of this caused a lot more fiddling and fussing than I thought when I began the project.  Didn't turn out too badly though.  Here's the flight deck after surgery, with the 5-N vertical surfaces painted and masked, and ready to apply the deck stain color, flight deck stain 21 (which, according to Snyder & Short, by 1944 was nearly identical to 20-B Deck Blue). That meant the whole thing can be painted in Colourcoats 20-B, catwalks, flight deck and all.
Thanks!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Thursday, December 3, 2015 11:57 PM

Dan, I like how that buff mist turned out, really pulled everything together.

checkmateking02

Jack:  is that the carrier GB you'll be participating in? 

 

Nope, no carrier build for for me, was actually referring to our '45 GB.    Is that pre-shading you have happening on the deck surface?  Looks very good that.

----------------------------

Just guessing the main ship colour, choosing the lightest WEM Kriegsmarine tinlet in my paintbox.  Airbrushed only, will touch up with brush tomorrow.  Painted the fret of PE at the same time, figure it be easier now than to paint after when attached to the model.  There is one PE piece in place, the round antenna (the radio direction-finder?).

The kit supplies only enough railing for the raised section located midship.  Will have to look through the stash for some suitable rails to go along the main deck.

regards,
Jack

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by Moff on Friday, December 4, 2015 8:08 AM

Dan, I really like the way the airbrushed buff turned out. That's what I've been doing on most of my previous armor models, but I'm pushing myself to use more pigments on the JS-3. Given how nice you did yours, I may have to change my mind!

 

"Gaiety is the most outstanding feature of the Soviet Union." - Josef Stalin 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Friday, December 4, 2015 10:42 PM
I finished up the flight deck and here is a photo of it sitting around while the glue sets.  There’ll be no coffee till it’s dry! Huh?
 
 
I'll just have to go with
 
  
 
for a while. Smile
 
I used Aleene’s craft glue to attach it, so I could wipe up any messes.  It’s usually strong enough to hold a flight deck, if it isn’t warped.
 
The letter “Z” was CV-38’s code letter, apparently.  Some photos show the letter on the vertical stabilizers of the airgroup’s Helldivers.  I didn’t find any photos of the stern, so I’m only guessing that the letter was repeated there. 

I used Bare Metal’s white inkjet decal paper to make the letter, and found it frustrating to use.  It took about three attempts, cuz the decal kept folding back over itself and defied any efforts to untangle it.  Then, I’d have to go back and recut another one.  At least it finally worked.

Below is a photo of the platform for mounting the SK-2 radar dish.  By 1945, it was located on the starboard side of the funnel.  It’s another piece from the Gold Medal sheet of PE.  There needs to be a styrene rod run through the hole in the platform; then the dish sits on top of that.
It was necessary to do some scratch-building to create some of the features CV-38 had, which weren’t addressed in the kit.
 
The first were the tubs for the Mk 51 gun directors at the bow.  These were a significant part of the ship, and couldn’t be left off.  They were a headache.  I finally was able to do them by soaking some plastic strip (2mm wide) in boiling water, bending them around a drill bit, then plunging them into cold water.  That made them hold their shape.  Then I glued them on a small piece of sheet styrene for the floor, and sanded the whole thing smooth.  It must have taken more than a dozen attempts before I came up with two I was satisfied using.
Then there were the gun tubs for the aft 20mm.  I used the same process, and made them the same size as the kit's platform on the aft port side, which also housed two 20mm Oerlikons.
I decided that to make painting easier, I would paint first then attach them with white glue.  This was a mistake, as it turned out.  They would be knocked off and re-attached multiple times during various stages of construction.  If I had it to do over, I’d have used Tamiya’s liquid glue to begin with and really fixed them in place.
Next was the mast with the YE radar on top.  There was nothing in the kit that remotely resembled the one on Shangri-la, so I scratched it from styrene rod.
I couldn’t locate any PE platforms on any after-market product, so I made the platform for the SG radar from an old retaining hub, salvaged from the parts box.  It started out with Hasegawa’s B-17 kit, to hold the propellers in place.  It’s obviously too thick, but it was the best I could come up with.  The ladder is PE from the Gold Medal set.
 
This is the end of all the construction photos I took.  The rest of the build consists of attaching the assembled pieces, and that would be bland and uninteresting to look at.  I hope to have finished photos by or before the end of the weekend. 
 
Thanks!
 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, December 5, 2015 1:04 AM

Dan, really nice use of the Buff there. I like a nice dusty finish, look forward to seeing this done.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, December 5, 2015 1:06 AM

Jack, check, those ships are looking great, really nice work guys.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Saturday, December 5, 2015 2:46 AM

Thanks Bish, and yea Check  with his carrier (looking very good btw), is running away with the ship race, finished photos by at least end of weekend - wow!  Surprise  

I can't say the same for me, put three hours in today, and still only have the one PE piece attached.  I guess I'm incorporating historical fact into the build; fuel shortage and dangerous skies for the Kriegsmarine.

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, December 5, 2015 1:19 PM
Thanks, Jack and Bish. The problem I always have with PE is that they almost always fall off, then have to be re-positioned and re-stuck. By then, the glue is too dry (I use white glue; what a mess I'd make if I used superglue!!!), so that has to be wiped off and everything begun again. Perseverance is one of the qualities of successful PE-ing, I guess.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Saturday, December 5, 2015 4:19 PM

Try the pigments - even if an AFV or truck in front conditions was almost new and unchipped, they were dirty. Zaloga has a nice photo segquence of a restored Stuart taken out for an hour spin to please a gathering of old tank fans: it leaves clean and comes back a mess. (If vehicles are moving in convoy they will get drenched with dust from the vehicle in front of them. Tankers I've talked to consider the stuff a plague if the vehicle is opened up.) True enough that dusting with acrylics is common and it works, but it's a little too uniform for my taste. (Others mileage will vary.) With pigments you can mix colors and, unless the vehicle has already been sprayed dead matte, you take stuff off unless it's been applied with "fixer." (Use ISP or simple water in an airbrush for dusting.) I'm finding pigments to be extremely valuable in ways I'd never thought of a couple of years back. If you have or can mix the right color they're wonderful for fading an aircraft much less a tank. I'll try them on my next ship. Obviously they're also really good for mud. If one feels conservative, it's perfectly possible to add good amounts of pigments in layers to emulate light mud - just pigments with ISP or even water to stick it on. If you don't like it, easy enough to get off. (Tougher with "fixer" which is essentially mineral spirits I believe.) I'm not at all sure that the normal technique of making heavy mud which calls for plaster as a thickener is good because it alters the color considerably - I use a thick artist gel because it dries clear and alters the color very little (you can even buy it with junk like lava or glass beads already mixed in.) MIG makes a product called "Mud" that's worth it - comes in four or five different colors, but unlike a lot of their products this is one I can't emmulate perfectly well. Looks great on a dio too. (If you want to see pigments used with a light touch, check out a 50 minute video on YouTube done by Mig Jimenez called "AFV Acrylic Techniques." Also check out shorter videos on Mig Mud: they've got one video on use on dios. Not to be confused with Real Mud, a product that's shown by Mig Jimenez - completely different stuff. YTube will list Real Mud down the list because it's got Mig's personal name on it. Figure that one out.)

One of the most important tools in my modelling box now are my "medical experiment" kits. Years back a I bought a Revell P-38 cheap. It was a bad model (and the only one I started but didn't finish) but left me with acres of styrene to try all kinds of techniques out on. And I've got two early kits that really aren't worth keeping to add variety. If I'm at all uncertain about how a weathering technique will work, or how a color I've mixed or chosen will actually look on plastic, it's time for a medical experiment. 

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Saturday, December 5, 2015 9:26 PM

Check: Understood. Sure hope you take on the Yorktown. That will be a sweet build. Well, your "muddling through" certainly yields some fantastic results. Speaking of, your doing some great stuff, especially with the modifications. I just got my Flyhawk PE set for Richilieu in the mail and I'm looking at 4 frets of "what have I got myself into". Actually it quite impressive. I'll likely also do a WIP on the ship forum so, hopefully you have ample opportunity to offer your sage advice.

Dan: The buff dusting looks excellent. Definitely adds the realistic effect on your Sherman.

Jack: You've certainly got me jaw dropped with the work your doing on the little boat. Nice.

Eric: Thanks for the tips on using pigments. Good stuff there.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Saturday, December 5, 2015 10:13 PM

PE and ships. Sweet. I use a two step process. Get some Aleene's "Tacky" glue - any craft store has it. It's white glue but very tacky - It'll grab a small piece of PE like a magnet. Once it's on and I think it might get bumped, I use a needle to put on a tiny drop of Zap a Gap Medium super. (A #17 xacto blade works great too - I have about ten handles and buy the blades by bulk: about a dime each.) I do use one of the little grasping tools from Small Shop for getting a clear cut of the stuff and to help bend. But just as valuable is this gadget - the best $10 one can spend on PE work from The Small Shop. It's so simple you want to cry. It's three pieces of plexiglass. (4 actually) One is a piece of black about 5" square. You put the PE fret on it. Prior you glue a clear tube onto a clear sharply angled rectangle. The angle is not clear on the photo but it's very abrupt so it's almost sharp on one side - wont' get in the way of your blade. You can see exactly where the fret and the piece are relative to your cutting blade, and hit the sweet spot without almost no errors. It's also super for very simple bending. Fits in a stocking. (You talking about the Merit Yorktown? I just got the Merit Enterprise - that will be a project.)

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Saturday, December 5, 2015 11:26 PM

That looks like a sweet tool Eric. Quickly added that to my X-mas wish list. Yup, I've got my tube Aleene's as well as Gator's Grip which works quite well also. Thanks.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Saturday, December 5, 2015 11:48 PM

Thanks Joe.  This boat is so small, only need one photo for all the updates.

Been working on deck details today, and came across a problem area, circled in red.  There is another red circle showing two tiny bits that are suppose to be an extension of the mid deck.  Problem is the torpedo tubes on either side sit too high.  So popped off the tubes, cleaned them up, and also trimmed down the front brace they sit on.  This cured the problem, and bottom photo shows it all fixed up.

On the fret itself, I've got painted the life preservers in red, as well as five crew figures.  Those on the left look to be on a carrier deck, so won't be using those. 

Also started work on the AA.  Problem with these is the barrels have no attachemnt points to the shields.  So I've glued a wire brace on the backsides so they have something to sit on.  One side of the wire still needs trimming (which didn't work out as the pressure of cutting was too much for the glue to handle, but has since been fixed).

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, December 5, 2015 11:55 PM
That is some real impressive work there Jack, she is looking real nice.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Sunday, December 6, 2015 12:37 AM

Making progress here. Wings are on. Now to mask off the cockpit and wheel wells.

 

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    January 2014
  • From: Toronto
Posted by Rob S. on Sunday, December 6, 2015 4:07 PM

Wicked work going on here!! Love that little boat!

Getting along slowly on the Typhoon. Got the underwing on and did the cutouts for the wing gun bays. Actually wasn't that difficult. The gun detail bits went in quite nicely and having the barrels and shrouds attached was a nice touch Airfix. Bit fussy getting the wing roots sealed and underneath was a bit of a challenge too. 

______________________________________________________________________________

 

On the Bench: Nothing on the go ATM

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Sunday, December 6, 2015 5:48 PM
Looking forward to seeing the Typhoon - lethal looking brute. I've never used big clamps on wings but know others do. What's the advantage? Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, December 6, 2015 7:12 PM

Eric:  so that tool is used for cutting PE off the fret?  Is it close enough so that you can avoid sanding?

Joe and Rob S:  good-looking aircraft!  Nice work.

Jack:  that's a sharp little vessel; very petite and attractive.  Bet these guys would've looked happier if they'd had one.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, December 6, 2015 7:31 PM

Unfortunately, I am going to miss my deadline for posting photos.  Had too much going on today to get around to it, but here's one finished photo with a Roosevelt dime on the flight deck, to illustrate the size.

Had to make a new "water" base for CV-38; the cats tore my first one apart.  Should have had them de-clawed, but that might have gotten me into trouble with the owner.

I should have some time to get the rest of the finished photos up tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2014
  • From: Toronto
Posted by Rob S. on Sunday, December 6, 2015 8:45 PM

EBergerud
Looking forward to seeing the Typhoon - lethal looking brute. I've never used big clamps on wings but know others do. What's the advantage? Eric
 

Actually Eric, these clamps are quite small actually. The amount of them help to keep it all sealed up for the 'welding' using extra thin cement.

______________________________________________________________________________

 

On the Bench: Nothing on the go ATM

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Sunday, December 6, 2015 10:34 PM

Rob: Glad to see you making good progress on the Typhoon. That's definitely a nice approach to the guns/gun bays. That's a bugger about the wing fit. I'm sure you'll have that dressed up real nice though.

Check: From your one photo it looks fantastic. The flight deck is really nicely done. What did you do there. Any aircraft planned? I am definitely looking forward to seeing the rest of the finished pics. P.S. I'm greatly impressed/jealous with how quickly you were able to knock that out.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Monday, December 7, 2015 1:19 AM

Joe and Rob, good progress on your respective aircraft builds.  Been decades since I've built the flying jug, and I've yet to get a Tiffie on the shelf.  The Airfix new tool is what I have my eye on.
Check - ditto as Joe praised, and I too would like to see a few aircraft on deck.

--------------------------------------------------

Thank you Bish, Rob and Check.
No doubt the Gilligan crew wouldn't have minded having an R-boat dropping by.  The  Bundesmarine were actually still using a few dozen of these up until the late 1960's.   For it's size though, not a very fast boat, reaching a top speed of less than 24 knots.  One interesting tidbit is about a third of these were constructed with unconventional propulsion.  No rudders, and the propellers were set horizontally, allowing for some very dexterous movement in the water. 

Voith Schneider Propeller

  

regards,

Jack

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, December 7, 2015 9:58 AM

Thanks, Joe and Jack! Actually, it's taken me six months to finish the thing. I started it back in May, then got interrupted a couple of times with vacation and two cataract surgeries, so much of it was partially completed before I could resume work in September. I wasn't sure I'd be able to pull this off, since there was so much scratch-building, and I haven't done very much scratch-building ever.

As for the airgroup, yes, I'd eventually like to do some planes, but the kit planes are pretty horrible--large sink marks in the sides of the fuselage; little pegs instead of wheels; solid-molded, so no clear canopies. The Gold Medal PE set came with propellers, which I've got painted up, but I think I'm going to need to get some Trumpeter planes. Plus, I need to do enough research to determine what kind. I know CV-38 had Helldivers, and I think Corsairs. What else, I'm not sure. The kit came with Corsairs, Helldivers, Avengers and Hellcats.

Thanks for your comments!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, December 7, 2015 10:45 AM
Joe, Rib, really nice work on those planes, a couple of real Brutes indeed. Look forward to seeing them get their coats on.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, December 7, 2015 10:48 AM

Check, she is looking really sweet, can't wait to see the finished product.

I was going to ask they were in the photo, but jack provide that.I never actually watch that programme.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, December 7, 2015 11:44 AM
Thanks, Bish. You really didn't miss much; Gilligan's Island was just a mindless, '60's sit-com. It's probably still being shown on TV somewhere around the world. Somewhere I heard that it was actually even shown in the Solomon Islands.

 

 

 

 

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