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75th Anniversary of 1944 Group Build (World at War)

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, February 14, 2019 3:14 AM

Looking forward to seeing that Kubel. I have been thinking about getting some lkarger scale kits such as the old Esci ones, but had not seen this.

One question though, are you planning on doing this as an Africa Korps vehicle?

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Wednesday, February 13, 2019 8:26 PM

My apologies everyone as I meant to post this first, before the first assembly of the 1/16 Kubelwagen. Here is the beginning..... Confused Hmm Whistling

OVERVIEW: (Copied in part from Wikipedia and other sources)

The Volkswagen Kübelwagen was a light military vehicle designed by Ferdinand Porsche and built by Volkswagen during World War II for use by the German military. Based heavily on the Volkswagen Beetle, it was prototyped as the Type 62, but eventually became known internally as the Type 82. This body style had first been developed by Karosseriefabrik Nikolaus Trutz in 1923. Mercedes, Opel and Tatra also built Kübelsitzwagen. With its rolling chassis and mechanics built at Stadt des KdF-Wagens (renamed Wolfsburg after 1945), and its body built by US-owned firm Ambi Budd Presswerke in Berlin, the Kübelwagen was for the Germans what the Jeep and GAZ-67 were for the Allies.

DEVELOPMENT: (Copied in part from Wikipedia and other sources)

Although Adolf Hitler discussed with Ferdinand Porsche the possibility of military application of the Volkswagen as early as April 1934, it was not until January 1938 that high-ranking Third Reich army officials formally approached Porsche about designing an inexpensive, light-weight military transport vehicle, that could be operated reliably both on- and off-road, in even the most extreme conditions. Porsche began work on the project immediately, having a prototype of the vehicle ready within the month. In order to guarantee adequate off-road performance of a two-wheel-drive vehicle with a 1,000 cc FMCV 1 engine, it would have to be lightweight. In fact, the army had stipulated a laden weight of 950 kg (2,090 lb), including four battle-dressed troops, which meant that the vehicle itself should not weigh more than 550 kg (1,210 lb).

Developmental testing by the military began after a presentation of the prototypes designated as Type 62 in November 1938. Despite lacking four wheel drive, a mainstay of the American military Jeeps, the vehicle proved very competent at maneuvering its way over rough terrain, even in a direct comparison with a contemporary standard German army 4×4, and the project was given the green light for further development. Further development of the Type 62 took place during 1939, including a more angular body design, and pre-production models were field-tested in the invasion of Poland. Despite their overall satisfaction with the vehicle's performance, military commanders demanded that a few important changes: the lowest speed had to be reduced from 8 km/h (5.0 mph) to 4 km/h (2.5 mph) as an adjustment to the pace of marching soldiers. Second, it needed some improvement of its off-road ability. Porsche responded to both requests by mounting new axles with gear-reduction hubs, providing the car with more torque and more ground-clearance all at once. Revised dampers, 41 cm (16 in) wheels, and a limited slip differential, as well as countless small modifications, completed the specification. In order to reflect the changes, the vehicle was renamed Type 82.

Full-scale production of the Type 82 Kübelwagen started in February 1940. No major changes took place before production ended in 1945, only small modifications were implemented. Prototype versions were assembled with four-wheel-drive (Type 86) and different engines, but none offered a significant increase in performance or capability over the existing Type 82. As of March 1943, the car received a revised dash and the bigger 1,131 cc engine, developed for the Schwimmwagen, that produced more torque and power than the original 985 cc unit. When production ceased at the end of the war, 50,435 Kübelwagen vehicles had been produced.

Long after the end of the war, VW resurrected the basic Kübelwagen design as the 1969 Type 181, developed for the German Federal Armed Forces and later also produced for the civilian market, known as "Thing" in the US, "Trekker" in the UK, and "Safari" in Mexico. Although similar in looks and design, almost no parts were interchangeable with the Type 82.

THE MODEL KIT: (Partially copied from the Scalemates and missing-lynx sites with my input and photos)

One word.. LARGE; when you open the box, it is full with no dead air space. The kit consists of 8 large sprues with extremely crisp molded parts, 2 sprues of clear parts, 5 hollow rubber tires, a decal sheet and nice 24 page instruction booklet. The parts layout is quite similar to the smaller 1/35 scale version Tamiya makes of this kit, except that there is a significant amount of added detail. Markings are included for 5 vehicles: sPzAbt 501 in Tunisia, a Luftwaffe AA unit in Tunisia, Ramke’s brigade in North Afrika, 999 Light Divison in Italy and a vehicle from an unknown unit.

A large number of parts on sprue “F” deal with a beautifully detailed engine. Molding quality is top notch as excepted from a recent Tamiya tool. The cooling fins on the cylinder heads, flexible hose heating ducts and transmission are beautifully rendered. Suspension detail is excellent and the front wheels can be displayed “turned”. 

Sprue “A” deals with the main body side panels. Mold ejection pin marks are kept to a minimum and usually located in areas which will never be seen once the model is assembled. This sprue really gives you and idea of how large this kit is. The finished model will be longer than a 1/35 Tiger I.

Sprue “B” deals with many of the interior parts. A nice touch is that the seatbacks are separate so that the knockout marks are hidden. The 1/16 Kubel seatbacks have nicely rendered springs. The texture on the seats themselves is restrained as they should be for the type of material used, the detail of the folded roof is excellent. 

Sprue “K” contains the hood (or bonnet), wheel rims and some accessories.

Sprue “E” contains the main chassis pan and doors. One of the best features of this kit is that the wood floorboard of the Kubel is molded separately making painting much easier. You can simply paint the model interior gray or tan and insert the wood coloured painted floorboards after. The doors themselves have separate handles, a nice touch.  

Sprues “J” and “Z” contain a very nicely done driver figure and the previously released figure of Rommel. Sprue “Y” contains personal equipment.

The windshield comes on a clear sprue, but also included is a clear taillight which allows you to mask off the clear areas before painting. Also included is a normal plastic tailight in case you don’t want to mask a clear part. The speedometer is supplied as both a standard plastic part you have to paint in or as a flat part in which a decal is applied and then sandwiched between a clear face.

Now if you read this prior to the previous message things will be OK.Bang Head

Until next time...

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

LAST COMPLETED:

1/35 Churchill Mk IV AVRE with bridge - DONE

NEXT PROJECT:

1/35 CH-54A Tarhe Helicopter

 

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Wednesday, February 13, 2019 8:16 PM

Normally I prefer to study the instructions before beginning any assembly. During this time I also determine the extent of extra detailing (scratch or after-market) I want to accomplish. During each step of assembly I look at the color callouts and also make my decisions on if I will follow them or go another route. I got my various tools, paints, cements, etc., so lets begin....

The instruction book, as previously mentioned is 24 pages. After opening the book I notice that the cover and the next 4 pages are the routine vehicle history, color callouts, basic modeling instructions, tips, etc.

Steps 1 and 2 of the build are the initial engine assembly as seen below. The color callouts show the entire engine is either mat-aluminum or semi-gloss black. When looking at actual photos or any real engine, you can easily see that it is not just 1 or 2 colors. For example there are even different hues or variations of a color, such as flat black, semi-gloss black, gloss black, rubber, etc. For this build I have decided to show some variations of colors to hopefully come up with a more realistic results. The second image shows some of the colors I am deciding to add within the build.

When building sub-assemblies, I, like many of you, normally build the entire assembly (if it is going to be the same color) before painting it. You can see in the image below that I assembled the engine and transmission halves along with the engine belly pan before painting. 

Another thing I chose to add, because of the scale, was the plug wires and fuel lines. This meant I had to drill out the distributor, heat shields (top of the cylinder heads), the end of the fuel pump, the carburetor, etc.. The instructions also called out for the transmission and engine case to both be mat-aluminum. To make it a slightly different shade I chose to first paint the transmission case a very dark gray and the engine portion a light gray (both acrylics). Likewise the finned cylinder sleeves were painted (acrylic) flat black. After the base coats dried I began to add a dark enamel (rubber, black, and gray mix) wash to get into the nooks and crannies of the engine and transmission. While it was drying I used a flat light gray enamel to dry-brush over the flat black fins of the cylinder sleeves causing the raised portions of the fins to accept the color and appear more like a casting (which they were in real life), not the aluminum in the callout. The transmission was then dry brushed a lighter shade of gray and then a finished light dry brush of silver. The engine case was dry brushed with a stronger coat of mat aluminum. The rubber seals around the pushrod tubes were painted well.... rubber, and not black as the callout shows. When looking at the fuel pump and comparing it to real ones, I decided to make the lower half a casting type of gray color and the pressed in top portion silver. The starter was also multi-colored by making the portion attaching to the engine casting gray, the main starter case flat black, the end of the starter semi-gloss black, and the end of the solenoid a rust brown ceramic color. There is still much more engine to assemble.

Below is the finished results of steps 1 and 2.

See you at the next update, and as always; your comments are welcome...

v/r,

Ben

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

LAST COMPLETED:

1/35 Churchill Mk IV AVRE with bridge - DONE

NEXT PROJECT:

1/35 CH-54A Tarhe Helicopter

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, February 12, 2019 9:08 AM

Ben:  I updated the front page with the Kubelwagen.  Looks like a good project!

Jack:  I haven't had much success with weathering techniques of any kind, so I don't usually do them; meaning, I also don't have much insight into the finish you're trying to achieve with the NMF on the P-38.  From what I have read on the subject, I think you probably identified an issue with the flat primer.  I believe most people who use Alclad put down a glossy base.

I haven't built a NMF project in a while, but conventional wisdom was to obtain a very smooth, shiny surface by polishing the plastic.  I've always used paint.  Floquil used to have some very nice silvery-metallic paints, and I stocked up on a few bottles before the line was discontinued.

From the photos, if you were going for a grimy, worn look, I think you achieved it!  

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2009
Posted by JacknewbIII on Monday, February 11, 2019 4:07 PM

That Kubelwagon with the figures looks really cool I can't wait to see the build.

 

I just noticed I am missing one of the prop covers for the P-38 and am not much of a scratch builder. I do have one other to use so I was thinking I could cast one somehow any thoughts?

So I went ahead and tried to preshade under the BM finish finishing with Alclad. These were taken after a few rounds of brushing futures as the finish was not as smooth as I would have liked it to be for decals. I didn't get nearly the BM finish I have seen people get with Alclad but I used flat primers and next time I will use satin or gloss as I believe that will get the results I want. I was going for a worn metal finish but this might be too much what do you think?

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Monday, February 11, 2019 2:50 PM

Checkmateking02,

To be fair, and since I've already used the 1/350 HMS Roberts for another GB, I will not use it  for this one (feels like cheating). The HMS Roberts is already done and has been posted in the Ships as well as GB themes. I found a kit in my stash that will work well for our GB here.

I have decided I am going to build Tamiya's 1/16 Kublewagen Type 82 and include Field Marshall Rommel and his driver (comes in the kit).

Please add this to my build information. I will post more on this build later...

Ben

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

LAST COMPLETED:

1/35 Churchill Mk IV AVRE with bridge - DONE

NEXT PROJECT:

1/35 CH-54A Tarhe Helicopter

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Sunday, February 10, 2019 3:06 AM
Talk of P-38s and B-24s. Hobby Boss has just come out with a 1/32 Liberator - huge. But there's a major WWII aircraft without a good model - I've heard nothing but sad tales about the MiniCraft or nothing great about the Hasegawa. The P-38 is another one. I suppose it's big enough for 1/72, but we should have a 1/48 Lightning. It's inherently a very difficult kit to build - pity Tamiya only throws out two jewels a year and the other new companies like Takom and Rye Field see fixated on armor. Listening Airfix? The new Airfix kits (as I'm beginning to learn first hand) are not ideal, but they're pretty good and they make kits that should be out there. (I do want their Wellington - ugly duck but a very important plane.) I wish they'd give the 38 a spin - I'd guess it would sell really well - if it fit together. Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Sunday, February 10, 2019 2:57 AM
I guess the price for the Horsa is pretty reasonable - I don't think any of the others are particularly great deals. I can't see the glider getting into my house - I have serious space problems and a 1/35 glider must be a whopper.

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, February 9, 2019 9:33 AM

The P-38 is looking good, Jack.  And that's a nifty little trick for masking.

I've never personally used Alclad, so I don't know how it works.  I always used Floquil's various silvers, until the paint line was discontinued.

Nice work!

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, February 9, 2019 9:30 AM

Rotorhead13

Reply to Checkmateking02 concerning the movie A Bridge Too Far. (Can't seem to get my post to attach to his. Guess I still have things to learn).

Me too! I watch that movie every year or two. Also on my repeat list of war movies is The Longest Day, Patton, Sergeant York, Battleground and possibly the best and most watchable war movie ever: The Great Escape. A few typical movie-industry errors, such as creating characters just so they could squeeze in American actors, but, on the whole, a very worthy tribute to the actual participants.

 

 
All great films, Rotorhead!  Another good one is "The Great Raid."

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2009
Posted by JacknewbIII on Friday, February 8, 2019 6:09 PM

The Lightning is coming along. I have all of the filling and sanding done and have attached the canopy and primed. I am trying to figure out how to tackle the finish. I bought some alclad airframe aluminum to try for the first time. Can you pre-shade under an almuminum finish or should I post shade? I am not sure I have ever attempted weathering metal finishes.

I have found that using a headlamp sitting on a desk (facing up) to be the best method of masking my canopies. I figured I would share a few pics of the process for those who are looking for different methods. I just slap a large piece of tamiya tape on it and hold it with my left hand just above the light and I can usually see the lines just fine. Results are not perfect but it does not take much time either. 

  • Member since
    March 2015
Posted by Rotorhead13 on Friday, February 8, 2019 5:21 PM

Here's something you all might want to consider, for this GB or just to get one cheap. A 1/35 Horsa glider at less than half price. Don't know how long it will last, but here's the link:   https://modelkitcloseouts.com/collections/featured-closeouts/products/bronco-1-35-airspeed-as51-horsa-glider-kit

 

  • Member since
    March 2015
Posted by Rotorhead13 on Friday, February 8, 2019 4:56 PM

Reply to Checkmateking02 concerning the movie A Bridge Too Far. (Can't seem to get my post to attach to his. Guess I still have things to learn).

Me too! I watch that movie every year or two. Also on my repeat list of war movies is The Longest Day, Patton, Sergeant York, Battleground and possibly the best and most watchable war movie ever: The Great Escape. A few typical movie-industry errors, such as creating characters just so they could squeeze in American actors, but, on the whole, a very worthy tribute to the actual participants.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Friday, February 8, 2019 3:36 PM

Panther is a great looking tank, Eric, and it's a great looking kit in the box.  Should be a fun build.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Friday, February 8, 2019 11:09 AM

Eric, great write up as always. 

Zimmerit can be found to have been field applied, but I've no idea how widespread it was in terms of every vehicle having it.   The photo below is supposedly an SS Panther D:

 

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, February 8, 2019 2:01 AM

Look forward to seeing that come along Eric.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Thursday, February 7, 2019 7:01 PM

Hi folks,

After a flight with an Airfix C-47 (let's call it a draw) I'm ready to turn to 1944. Last year I intended to do a Tamiya Panther D (new tool 2015) along with an ICM T-34/76 for a Kursk duo. Reality kicked me in the shins, and only the T-34 saw the light of day.

But I've still got the Tamiya Panther and want to build it. For one thing, I haven't built a Panther for over fifty years (remember one when I was about 12). Second, I was very impressed with recent Tamiya armor kits - I thought their Jagdpanzer IV was a great kit, adn this one looks good too.

I think I can work this "Kursk Panther" kit into the spirit of 1944 without changing history. I have no intention of adding zimmerit. The Panzer D was produced until September 1943 - with some 800 vehicles made. (Zimmerit was introduced in September 43 and I believe was factory applied.) There were 200 at Kursk: only about 40 were destroyed completely, but from what I can gather, most were gone by fall during the hasty German retreat to the Dnieper. That still leaves 600 - and most would have gone East. A few showed up in Italy, but as I understand it, German armor there relied heavily on Stugs and other self-propelled guns. After the failure at Salerno to destroy the allied landing - no real answer to naval artillery - German defense centered on static defenses which suited Stugs nicely and anti-tank guns more. (There was enough armor around to give the allies a real scare at Anzio, but the naval guns saved the day again - and would do once more at Omaha.)

I'm not going to track down a specific unit, but the entire German Wehrmacht was under intense pressure after twin counter blows on both sides of the Kursk salient in mid-July/early August 1943. By year's end the Germans were west of the Dnieper, hoping (vainly) to make a stable line. What did result in the southern sector was German Army Group South finding itself assailed by two Soviet Fronts under Konev and Vatutin. It's pretty safe to assume, I think, that Manstein had been getting his share of Panthers. (All of this led to the famous Korsun Pocket where much armor was involved.) But if not in the South, than in AG Center - it too was running. I think it almost certain that many Panthers were still in service in January. Mechanical reliability of the Panther improved steadily - at least the Germans started to understand what might cause breakdown. The heavy armor made Panthers tough to demolish and the Germans were very good at recovering damaged vehicles. I also can't imagine the Germans sending back damaged tanks unless essential - the Eastern Front was fighting for its life - again.

So we're going to put a Panther G into the German line somewhere in Russia in January 1944. Obviously that will mean a winter build - I've only done a couple of those and had great fun. Winter builds are not exactly rare, but arguably there should be more. When you figure it, at least one third of the year in the Ost was either winter or Rasputitsa. As I understand it, the Ukraine is a little like my Minnesota home: it has two seasons (cold/snow winter: hot/humid summer) seperated by a few week integrenums. Anyway, a very good excuse to do serious weathering - goody.

For formality sake, here's the kit:

Eric

 Kit by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr 

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Friday, February 1, 2019 10:24 PM

Very nice, Ben.  Looks like a lot of detail parts.  Interesting looking vessel.  I look forward to seeing it come together, since it's a type I'm not familiar with.

I'll update the front page.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Friday, February 1, 2019 5:01 PM

Checkmate,

Sorry about the very slow response to your question. My ship is a 1/350 scale Trumpter kit of the WW2 HMS Roberts Monitor class ship. It participated in Africa, Landing in Italy, D-Day, and several more interactions. One of the main guns is now displayed in the front of the Royal Naval Museum.

Perhaps I can use it for this GB as well?

v/r,

Ben

 

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

LAST COMPLETED:

1/35 Churchill Mk IV AVRE with bridge - DONE

NEXT PROJECT:

1/35 CH-54A Tarhe Helicopter

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Wednesday, January 30, 2019 10:12 AM

Thanks, Jim.  It looks good!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by Nuckss on Tuesday, January 29, 2019 10:48 PM

checkmateking02

Very nice, Jim.  That's a very appealing camouflage scheme.  What type of paint are you using?

 

The blue is Vallejo Model Color and most of the other paints will be Vallejo. The gray is Mr. Surfacer primer though actually!

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, January 28, 2019 6:17 PM

Very nice, Jim.  That's a very appealing camouflage scheme.  What type of paint are you using?

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by Nuckss on Monday, January 28, 2019 5:03 PM
That looks better!
  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by Nuckss on Monday, January 28, 2019 5:03 PM
  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by Nuckss on Monday, January 28, 2019 4:59 PM
I've got two of the three hull camo colours on there and will begin priming and painting the rest of the super structure shortly. The hull camo looked a little daunting at first but is actually not bad. I used the portals as guides for where I needed to mask. I'm letting the navy blue dry for a while so it doesn't come off with the next masking step.
  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by Nuckss on Monday, January 28, 2019 4:56 PM

Hello Again,

Here are a few pictures of the HMCS (not HMS) Huron 1944:

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  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, January 27, 2019 7:00 PM

Welcome to the GB, Jim.  Glad to have you participating with the Huron.  I've seen photos of the kit, and it looks pretty sharp.

I've updated the build roster; thanks for joining in.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by Nuckss on Saturday, January 26, 2019 4:58 PM
Hi Guys, I will do a Trumpeter 1:700 scale tribal class destroyer HMCS Huron as it was in 1944. Away from home now but will post pictures ASAP Cheers, Jim
  • Member since
    October 2009
Posted by JacknewbIII on Tuesday, January 22, 2019 10:30 PM

I bought 3 of these same kits in a lot so I am hoping at least the first one doesn't fight me! Thanks for the input Checkmate!

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, January 22, 2019 9:47 PM

Good progress, Jack.  Nicely constructed.  I built one of these way back when and found it was a challenge to align the booms, wings, tail, etc.  Looks like you mastered all that really well.  

 

 

 

 

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