Build Complete - #10 Italeri Camionetta AS 42 Sahariana WIP

Build Update:

Halloween put a crimp on a lot of build time this weekend, but I did  manage to get some work done.  I had to clamp the main compartment to prevent warpage and also assembled and dry fitted the engine.  I will have to paint the engine and components before I can continue any further assembly. Not much of it will be seen but the radiators will be visible through compartment vents so I will give my best shot.

Build Update Squared:

I primered the engine componets with Mr. Surfacer 1200 so it could set up overnight so I can start the engine detail painting tomorrow.  I am amazed a tthe deatil on this little gy.  It's my first resin engine.

~Well... aren't you jsut cookin along there Buddy! Very nice lookin 'block. Is that engine gunna be visable when the car's finished?    You got references for that motor? Looks fuel-injected-impressive(Italian moto-magic)   Anyways Mr surfacer 1200, huh? That's just the right stuff from what  I read in some better blogs(Libor's) Used with the airbrush? Talk surfacer for a minute would ya? I haven't tried any "Mr." stuff yet...but I LOVE the Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer & wonder if its the same????

~Me

Looking great as usual Ed.  I like the resin engine.  Lots of detail and looks reall sharp buddy.

Bob

Schnobs wrote:

Vehicles look sexy as heck just in Primer don't they!!

~LOL~ They sure do buddy ~ LoL  (I live in Ventura. Every year in August we have the Primer Nationals at the Ventura Farigrounds. Talk about sexy primer! Low-brow, chop-job, Rat-Rods and all the trimmings !) something to see!

Thanks Bob.  I am not sure on how to approach the main engine cast.  have read reserach material that the Italians did not prime their engine blocks and left it in the natural steel.

I just cannot believe that is accurate!   I will probally use Calvary Brown as a Primer or Ilatian green with lots of Oily Steel dry brushing

Howdy Edmund!

The build is looking good, congratulations! As for the engine - in Europe it's a common practice that engines are unpainted. And I've seen this not only in italian or polish cars - even germans do that. To the point that it was really strange to me to see painted motorblocks on american cars. Be it cast iron or light alloy, the blocks and trannys always have that metallic/dirty look to them. They seldom look rusty though, so I guess they are treated somehow, maybe just oily. Parts madeout of sheet metal, like the oil pan or valve covers are painted black or dark grey. Hope it helps you, keep up the good work and have a nice day

Pawel

Thanks for clearing up the mystery Pawel it is appreciated.  Hmmm European people don't prime their engines and they drive on the wrong side of the street! 

I know, I  know, wrong is a matter of perspecitive and as Wbill will or would say "This is a Global Forum and I should keep all my comments respectfull!" 

Just teasing Europe Guys!

This is coming together nicely, Edmund.  The engine looks very detailed, with some careful detail painting, it's going to look fantastic.

Watch the chassis geometry, as we discussed about the armored avocado, check and re-check at every step of the way and you should be fine.

I'm looking forward to seeing this one with some paint on it.

BIll  

~It''s just Great Britain that drives on the left side of the road, as far as I know. The other European countries drive on the right side. I'll buy a pint for the 1st chap that can tell me why the Brits drive on the left....makes alot of sense once you know why~

I believe it was originally to keep your sword arm free for combat.

Schnobs wrote:

I believe it was originally to keep your sword arm free for combat.

Thanks Bill.

Indy:  I remember learning that in High school actually.

I received my Osprey Battle Orders Desert Raiders: Axis and Allied Special Forces 1940-43 book today and I am already half way through it.  I can't put it down it's quite cool.  Thanks Manny for recomending it.

I have decided to go all out and get it out of my system on my Doo and add a German long range patrol vehicle to the Oasis as well.  I was thinking about a Horch 1A insead of a Kubelwagan. because they are a little over represented and I had never even heard of the Horch 1A.  I have been doign some preliminary research but can anyone recomend a great kit?

Thanks in advance,

~Where'd you go to High school Edmund ? I don't remember learning anything that interesting at mine~ Anyway you're ahead of the pack once again, 'cause I've asked people and that fact isn't common knowledge at all ~

 For the German vehicle, you have alot to choose from :  YOU ARE IN LUCK BIG TIME

Just released :

Also just released :

Same exact Kubelwagon 82 I just built(see my current build) but with some darn interesting looking figures(probably cheap as Tamiya's normal prices too)

Thier "Kfz15 Horch" :

Looks like a good choice to me too, I nearly bought this one a few times(in stock @ $24.19 @  http://www.scalehobbyist.com/  )

They have this 'Horch 1A" also(ugly ,huh?) for only 11.99!

Hope some of that helps, the kubel is the only one I've built yet far, they are ll kinda interesting I'd say though...

OK bench time  ~bye

]That is correct ,Sir, I owe you an Ale !  It was preferable, in ancient times, to pass anyone approaching on the side of your sword arm(your strong side) , more likely than not, your right.               ~This put ones weapon between you and a stranger, instead of putting you between a stranger and your weapon. This tradition is simply carried all the way to the present times, in England, and  it really makes more sense, when you look it it this way, to pass on left side of the road. I doubt it will ever seem to make sense when I get in my truck though.........

The whole sword thing is actually most likely a latter-day myth. Today we have something of a tendency to romanticize the sword and how often it was used in real life. Swords were actually exceedingly rare in everyday life; wearing them in public was the express territory of nobles, especially in Britain. The better part of the traffic on roads was dominated by commoners, pilgrims, and merchants. These would be armed with a knife, if it all. Most true research into this history reveals that natural right-handed tendencies toward handling a horse or cart probably dictated the natural flow of traffic. It's much easier to mount and dismount a horse (if you're right-handed) from the left; naturally one would be more inclined towards staying on that side. Unfortunately, this subject is one of those quotidienne things that most cultures don't bother writing or acknowledging in written accounts, and outside of apocryphal evidence and conjecture we'll probably never know for sure.

Bismarck, North Dakota!

Thanks for the input the actual relase date for 35305 German Steyr Type 1500A/01 & Africa Corps Infantry At Rest (November)

Which is fine I have the other kits to do first.

I also found the following which according to my reserach were vehciles used for long range patrols as well.

Sd.Kfz.222 North Africa for $28.79

 

German Kubelwagen Type 82 for $12.27


 

Back to reading! 

Hello everybody!

Edmund, don't joke too much of the Europeans, it's here in Europe where the internal combustion engine was invented! Like just 1000km from where I live

Now we got an interesting discussion going on Edmund started. Did you know, in Sweden they switched from driving on the left to driving on the right just in 1965 or so? That had to be tough. Other countries driving on the left are New Zealand, Australia and Japan.

As for why we drive on the right and the British on the right I found the following: Initially all rode on theleft side. This way one could keep his right hand free for greeteings, defence and so on. Riding a small wagon it was practical to sit on it's right side to have lots of room for the whip.On the continent the wagons were quite massive, and had no driver’s seat, so a postilion sat on the left rear horse and held his whip in his right hand. Seated on the left, the driver preferred that other wagons pass him on the left so that he could be sure to keep clear of the wheels of oncoming wagons. He did that by driving on the right side of the road.[source: wikipedia]

Hope I didn't bore you to death, happy modelling and have a nice day

Pawel

UUUGG~ ! No hijacking Edmund's thread !( although he started this) It needs back-on-topic. Sorry Edmund, maybe my fault.

 ~ Pawel,did you have a typo there, with one xtra "right", but meant "left"? Also. you don't list your location with your avatar so you're making me guess if you're Kiwi or Ossie, and I know better than to get it wrong, so which is it? Makes sense about those countries, wasn't sure about what side they drove on, BUT Japan? Never woulda guessed that 1~

*EDIT* Oh wait ! Pawel, you're a New Zealander. Aren't you? I can't hear your accent, but you did leave a clue. You listed New Zealand 1st in that series of 3. No outsider lists your country before Australia (I bet that steams you guys)

~ Mac It's probably like you said at the end, we will never know for sure. I've accepted the sword-arm explanation, makes sense, even if one was only armed with a gesture In this country, we generally pass on the right when walking or  as well as driving. When I walk by some stranger on a city street, I'm giving him the benifit-of-the-doubt that he's safe, and subliminaly sayin "I'm safe", by passing him on the right. My strong arm is away from him, not near to him.....It's subtle. It's body-language.

~ Edmund, back to the build....so are you still leaning towards the Hortch, or are you now thinking of displaying a Steyr  in your scene? Both are good.  Yes, an armored car would work also but I'd say the 222 is very cool, but just as "over represented" as the kubelwagon.

Yeah Indy, let's go back to topic. I'll just say I'm from Poland. That's why I listed it the other way round than everybody else . Anyhow, the engine should be raw metallic grey. Have a nice day

Pawel

Thanks Wayne, Pawel, Indy, and macktheknife for the history commentary which is always fun.

Pawel: I was just teasing and plan to keep the engine block a raw steel thanks for the heads up on that.

Wbill:  Thanks for the comment I will start painting the ngine today yesterday I got caught up in my new book which is phenomenal.

Indy: I do not see much difference between a Horch 1A and a Steyr?  What are the differences if any?  I am leaning towards either one.

Schnobs - or is it Edmund?

I am so looking forward to more pictures from this build.
Your Sherman was a joy to follow, I am sure this one will be as well.
I think you got the balance between detail, accuracy and finnished product just right!

Off Topic:

Steyr and Horch are not the same company but where well connected.
During WWII most car manufacturers where involved in war scheme manufacturing and produced the same things.

Not sure if this is an example though.

August Horch left Horch manufacturing, the company he had himself created  1909 and established Audi (Horch is listen in German and Audi something simillar in Latin).

In the 30's when the recession hit Europe badly the Sachsen Bank forced the manufacturers Audi, Horch, DKW (Deutsche Kraft Wagen) and Wanderer to form under one company name; Auto Union AG.
The symbol was four unitetd rings, the current logo for Audi.

Steyr are still in business run out of Austria.

Thank You for sharing!

Svenne

~Svenne ~ Very interesting little-known stuff there about the pre-war German Automakers. Seems strange that the Audi brand is nowhere to be seen during that era, or is it?

~Pawel ~ Poland~ Very good, I took a chance / got that 1 wrong !  No one got hurt

~ Edmund Schnobs ~ really? ! Don't see the difference? Look again

 The Steyr is more  of a car (a bit more trim & hansome too)

The Horch is more of a truck (or SUV), definatly more utilatarian.

Intechangable for your purposes I would guess ~!

Thanks Svenne for the background and historical information.  One day our children will discuss the death of Pontiac and the selling of Chrylser to Fiat and they will think GM stands for Give Me more Money! 

Indy:  Oh I see the physical differences and your comments are dead on and I am going to wait for the Tamiya Stehr release in November and thanks for providing the link it is quite cool!

I am detailing the engine now will post later this evening!

Build Update:

Even though I am choosing to have the engine compartment buttoned up you should be able to see the front of the radiators and a little bit of the engine through the rear louvers.

I wanted to get some practice in and get a chance to use two Mig products that I pciked up form Rick Lawler at the Evergreen Aviation Show earlier this fall.

I was very impressed with the effects created by both the oil and grease and rust mixtures layered lightly over each other in multiple applications.

I primered the engine and components in Mr Surfacer 1200 as earlier posted and then basecoated in Model Master Exhaust Buffing Metalizer.  I then used Vallejo Oily Steel for dry brushing followed by Vallejo Calvary Brown painted on the exhaust manifolds.  I then followed this up with as mentioned earlier with alternating washes of both the oil and grease and the rust washes.

Let me know what you think it looks like a oily well used inline six to me!

Terry you were not whiseling Dixie when you reported fit problems with the engine! 

I did manage to get it in place though.

Hello Edmund!

You sure got that engine color right! Looks just like in the Fiat 126p my family used to have years ago. Now I'm curious how You are going to blend the engine and it's compartment. Keep it up and have a nice day

Pawel

Thanks for the color assistance and kind words Pawel.  I have spent a considerable time thinking about just that.  It will be completly covered up but I have OCD and I will know it's there so I will probaly brush paint some MM Metalizer as a primer and then add light tones of primer and some more grease and oil washes.

Bill: Thanks Bill it was my first resin engine and I was quite happy with the end result.