DML Pzkpfw III Ausf G Afrika Korp Blog COMPLETE 01-11-2010

Looking forward to seeing what you do with that old kit Bill

Rob

Oh, I've got this bad boy in the stash and was considering it as one of my next builds. I've been hankering for a DAK build and am anxious, scared is the real word, to try the hair spray method on it. Bookmarking this one. Mine will be OOB though.

Very Cool Bill I have almost bought this kit dozens of times at shows I am really looking forward to watching this one unfold. 

Excellent job on your Tiger Sir it was a blast to watch you build it!! 

Wbill, cant wait to see this one get rolling.

Bob

I'll say it again Bill..........Your a MACHINE!!

I am looking forward to follow this.  I don't think I have seen this kit before... is it an older DML kit?  I am still learning how to use the new forum.  I see '2 Followers' at the top... what do I need to do to make myself a follower? 

Bill,

Classic!   Work your magic.

Rick

OH FUN! I'll be watching.

I got an Imperial Series kit as a freebie and was wondering what that was.  Older not as well engineered and detailed kits I assume.

Bill,

I am looking forward to watching this build.

Cheers

Dave

Wow , no rest for the wicked. LOL Right onto the next project, I'll be watching as always.This should be an interesting build, I like when you work your magic on an older kit.

Here it is not even winter yet and a lot of us are already thinking about warmer weather.

Go Bill, you've got my attention.                                                                                                                          Tony Lee

Thanks guys, appreciate the interest in this one. The older kits often require a bit more work but can still be built up into nice vehicles with just a little TLC along the way!

deafpanzer

I am looking forward to follow this.  I don't think I have seen this kit before... is it an older DML kit?  I am still learning how to use the new forum.  I see '2 Followers' at the top... what do I need to do to make myself a follower? 

DML has an older series of kits, called the "Imperial Series" that have kit numbers starting with 90xx and cover a wide range of subjects. For the Pz III family, the kits have the older multi-media Gunze Sangyo kits as their origin and DML swapped out those multi-media parts for styrene. These kits were produced in the '90s and are still bumping around but are OOP. They can usually be had for under $30 but aren't the same molding/quality standard as the modern DML kits, so you have to be aware of that going in.

As for your second question about how to become a "follower", first you must choose a kit from your stash, go out to your backyard and build a small wooden pyre 2 ft. square, no more and no less sayeth the....oh wait, that's something else entirely! The "follower" function of the forums is a pretty neat one, it's a subscription tool that allows you to receive emails whenever someone posts to that thread. To do this you need to have the email notices turned on in your profile and, once you do that, at the top of the thread you'll see a button that says something like "send me emails when someone replies" and then you'll become a "follower".

wing_nut

OH FUN! I'll be watching.

I got an Imperial Series kit as a freebie and was wondering what that was.  Older not as well engineered and detailed kits I assume.

Marc, depending on the kit some of them need more work than others. The parts count is usually lower than the Smart kits and of course they don't have things like Magic tracks or PE as a rule although the Pz III kits usually do include PE steel grilles for the intakes. As I mentioned above, they can be built up with a little TLC and look great so long as you know what you're in for at the outset.

I started work on this project yesterday and between then and today managed to make some decent headway. Since this is an older kit, the parts clean-up is higher with mold seams, flash, etc. taking more time to resolve than you would expect with a modern kit but nothing that basic model skills can't handle.

I started where most kits start with Step 1 dealing with all of the road wheels, the return rollers, sprockets, and idlers. The road wheel halves and return roller halves were left un-assembled to make it easier to paint and detail them later. Each of the halves had its mold seam sanded down with a sanding twig on the rubber portions and the external half of the return rollers had a prominent ejector mark on their faces. These were carefully removed using the tip of a round needle file since they are in a particularly tough spot to work in.

Moving on to Step 2, this deals with the lower hull and suspension. Since the hull is one that DML uses/re-uses in several Pz III/StuG III kits, there are some surgical modifications necessary to make it suitable for a III-G and the instructions call these out. The first return roller mount on either side that is molded as part of the hull has to be removed and replaced with an add-on part to put all the return rollers evenly spaced and level with each other in order to achieve the correct early Pz III arrangement. I cut down the molded-on mount with sprue cutters and then carefully removed the rest with a #11 knife, finally sanding down the remnants until the hull was smooth. Using a metal ruler as a guide, the new mount was installed at the correct height and spacing. One of the mount holes that isn't used was filled with putty and sanded down and I also removed the molded-on locator line for the crew escape hatches with a micro-chisel and sanded it down before installing the hatches. Last but not least, the mount post for the final drive housings was cut down in order to make use of the MK parts that allow the sprocket to rotate instead of installing static as the kit parts are designed.

Speaking of the MK parts, I replaced the final drive housing with the MK parts and adapters and added the sprockets to insure everything would rotate freely before installing them to the hull.

The rest of the suspension was then installed as called for in Step 2. The instructions have an error in that parts B13 and B14 are reversed in terms of which side they install to but that was easily worked out and corrected. For the idler, I carefully assembled the idler mount so that the tension arm rod could remain movable and didn't glue the base of the mount to the hull. This allows the idler mount to be slightly movable and will come in handy later on when working with the MK tracks to get just the right tension arrangement when those are mounted.

Step 2 also calls for the installation of the rear hull plate and the air exhaust vents. These installed smoothly and without major issues and I added the rear mufflers as well. The exhaust pipes were molded partially hollow but I decided to drill these out a little deeper using a micro drill bit and pin vise to give them a more realistic appearance. The rear tow pintles were also added and these had some ejector marks on their outward faces that had to be carefully removed before installation.

Step 3 calls for the road wheels to be installed and Step 4 for the tracks so both of these will be skipped for now. The next steps will deal with the upper hull but that will have to wait until next weekend!

Good Luck o this one Bill, I'm sure it will be up to your usual standards.

Terry.

Thanks Terry, glad to have you along for the ride!

I had a feeling you'd like this one Wayne!

Good luck Bill...I'll be watching...

Thanks Guney! It's not the first older Pz III kit I've built by DML so I already know the usual pitfalls with the series.

Those old kits still have lots of potential Bill, especial;y for wrecks

Making great progress Bill,looks like you have everything under control with the old timer.

Rob

Lookin good Bill. I'm following along with interest!

Nate

Rob, Nate, thanks for the comments and interest in this project.

Looking forward to this one Bill. Only problem is with all this time following your builds, I hardly have time to build any of my own!

-Stephen

Thanks Stephen! Sorry to take away time from your bench as a distraction!

After much thought and deliberation, I've decided to use the reference photo below found in Trojca's Sdkfz 141 Pzkpfw III and will attempt to recreate some of the key features shown. Specifically, I will be modifying the fender to remove the forward section and rearranging the gear on the fenders as well.

Interestingly enough, the MK track set box has a photo of a build of this same vehicle replicating everything including the stowage and figures that will also provide some valuable insight. Work is getting ready to start on the upper hull and fenders so this was the right point to make a decision one way or the other!

Progress was good today, I started in on the upper hull since that was the next item of business in the instructions. The upper hull foundation is actually that of a StuG III so to convert it over to a Pz III hull there are several modifications that have to be done. Step 5 outlines most of these although there are some that are also called out in Step 8 that I went ahead and did at this point in time just because it's easier to do it now vs. later. These modifications include adding the hull side panels appropriate for the Pz III but these have several bolt heads that have to be shaved off as well as some locator marks that aren't used on both sides. This was easily taken care of with a sharp #11 blade and a little bit of sanding. At the rear hull there are some indentations on both sides that need to be filled with putty and there are 6 holes that need to be opened up in the engine deck hatches to take the Tropen cooling vent covers in a later step. Last but not least, the triangular stops for the engine hatches also needed to be removed and sanded down.

For the right side hull panel, two holes have to be opened up to take the armored port cover there for the hull gunner's position, unfortunately I wasn't paying too close attention and opened up the two holes at the rear of the panel instead of the two at the front...so the wrong holes were carefully puttied over and the right holes opened and the port installed. The front hull brake access hatch panel was also added at this point to complete the step.

Step 6 adds the hull roof and the superstructure front plate and both of these require modification to conform to the G layout. The roof needs the two corner lifting hook mounts removed and the indentations for the hook itself puttied and sanded. Three holes need to be opened up for the turret splash ring to be added later. The front plate requires some significant surgery as it doesn't have the square opening for the MG34 ball mount. The opening is outlined on the back side but it has to be cut out, so I drilled out small holes in each of the corners and carefully removed the square with a razor saw. The ball mount was added to the plate and the glue allowed to set up.

Before I installed the plate to the hull, I test fit the brass Armorscale MG34 barrel and needed to enlarge the opening for the barrel to install properly. This was done with a combination of a drill bit and pin vise and a round needle file to get the diameter required both front and back on the mount until the barrel fit snugly. The G featured the perforated type of cooling jacket and the kit part just didn't have the level of detail needed to do this justice and I checked the length of the barrel against the scale plans in Panzer Tracts 3-2 before gluing into place with CA gel. Due to the tight space behind the plate, I had to trim down the rear portion of the barrel a couple of mm with side cutters so that the plate and MG would line up properly. 

I added the armored visor for the driver in the up position and then glued the hull roof into place using liquid glue to get a good join along the perimeter. While Step 6 also calls for the installation of the bolt-on armor for the glacis plate, I decided to wait to do that until I added the nose plate and the upper and lower hull were joined together to insure proper alignment of all the various components.

That led me to Step 7 which joins the upper and lower hull components together. The mating surfaces aren't large between them and some flash on the lower hull needed to be trimmed away in different places to get a good join. I used regular glue and a series of rubber bands to secure them together and left it to dry for a couple of hours.  I also added the bolt on panels for the glacis and nose as well as the armored covers for the brake vents.

Once the join was set, I removed the bandages and the patient came through just fine. The remaining items from Step 7 were added in the form of the superstructure front bolt-on plate, splash guard for the turret, and lifting hooks for the hull roof. The bolt-on plate fit generally well but some small gaps were the roof tabs met the hull roof needed some putty to fill them and simulate the welded on nature of the connection.

Next up will be working on the rear hull and fenders!

More progress was made today although not as much as I had expected and I blame it all on the NFL! The Niners game got moved to an afternoon slot due to all the snow in Philadelphia and that totally wrecked my day schedule plans. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!

I did manage to complete Step 8 despite losing quite a bit of time assembling the Voyager smoke candle rack only to not be able to use it in the end. The rod that Voyager provided that is crucial to securing all the parts together was the wrong diameter and all I had was some brass rod to replace it with. That turned out to be too stiff and ripped out some of the delicate parts while I was trying to assemble it so I salvaged the smoke candles themselves and the chain and mated that up with the kit parts. The kit doesn't include the candles so that's the critical part to add here anyway IMHO.

I also installed the engine deck hatches and the Tropen vent covers along with the lifting hooks for the rear deck. Last but not least, I installed the crank starter port cover using part C14 instead of the kit directed A43. A43 is the wrong style for the G but fortunately the right part is available on the sprues, just not called out properly.

Step 9 was also finished today, this called for the installation of the side air intakes and the front tow points. The side intakes had a little bit of flash that needed to be removed on the insides and some sanding was necessary to smooth down the tops to allow the Aber PE screens to fit properly. The screens were added with some CA gel and the intakes installed into position.

The front tow points required a little bit of work before they could be installed. They had ejector marks on their outer faces that needed putty and sanding to correct and also some sanding at the top to remove the join seam that would be visible there. The points installed without issue and I went ahead and added the front headlights as well even those aren't called for until Step 12 to round things out.

Didn't get to the fenders yet since those will require a lot of rework and shuffling of gear, that's up next on the agenda.

Nice work my friend but Dallas won Saturday night.

Tony Lee

Thanks Tony...don't remind me about the Cowboys! I have every confidence they will fall apart in the Dec/Jan timeframe, never fear.

I started an extended Christmas vacation yesterday so was able to get some more time in on this one as a result. Work continued with the fenders and focused in on Steps 10-14.

To begin with, the instructions are not quite accurate in terms of the tool layout particularly on the left hand fender to represent the stowage as seen on a standard G. The instructions call for the jack block to be installed at the front behind the Notek light when in fact it belongs on the rear fender and the jack's position as well as the fire extinguisher's are not placed correctly on the second-to-last section. In that case, the jack should be moved forward to the point that the "claw" end overhangs the fender support rod slightly and the fire extinguisher moved to the rear of the same panel instead of the front. These mods are easily done without too much trouble, just a matter of filling the mount holes with putty and clipping off the pins and gluing the parts in the right positions. I replaced the kit-supplied FE with a better detailed spare from a DML Smart Kit from the spares bin.

Other modifications were called for in terms of removing the entire first full section of the fender to replicate the missing portion seen in the reference photo for this particular vehicle. This was done using sprue cutters and then carefully trimming down the remainder with a #11 blade in order to leave the mount tabs for the fender support in place at the junction of the lost section and remaining fender. This vehicle also had a spare road wheel mounted next to the tool box so this required moving the S-hooks forward one section and placing them next to the wire cutters. I used some generic Griffon clamps and "clean" S-hooks without molded on clamps also drawn from the spares bin. The photo also shows that the rear fenders were removed, so this was also cut down using sprue cutters and the stub plate added courtesy of spare parts from the DML Pz III N Smart Kit.

Other kit parts were also replaced with better detailed items including the jack block with one from a Tamiya Pz III L, the rear Notek light and spare road wheel from the DML Pz III-N Smart Kit, and wire cutters from the spares bin (these had to be trimmed slightly to fit the Griffon clamp). 

The fender braces were added and then the fender was installed to the hull. I also found some spare wing-nuts while digging around in the spares bin and added a couple of those to the jack mount for a little extra detail. After reviewing the exposed area of the hull around the drive sprocket, I decided to use some putty and add a little bit of weld detail to the plate joins there as well.

The right side fender was not quite as complicated an area to work with...although it too needed some modifications. The rear mud flap was removed to match the left side and the stub plate added. The brake light was replaced with a modified spare part from the DML Pz III N kit that had better detail, ditto for the width indicator light and siren at the front of the fender. The front mud flap was carefully cut down and removed as well and the additional tool box added behind the siren/indicator light using the parts available on the F sprue as parts 20 and 21. These are marked as "not for use" but were commonly seen on Gs and Hs, so I added it for greater accuracy. 

The axe was left off in favor of adding a field-installed jerry can rack...although that side of the vehicle isn't visible in the photo, this type of rack was a common feature in N. Afrika vehicles, particularly the 8th Regt. So even though this is a 5th Regt vehicle, I took a little license and decided to add it. The kit provided the jerry cans already and the rack was scratch built using strips from an Eduard PE fret cut to size and glued together with CA gel. The starter crank had its molded on clamps removed and Griffon clamps installed in their place. Last but not least, the antenna tray and supports were assembled and installed to complete the fender layout for the time being. The shovel will be added later after painting.

The braces were then added and the fender installed to the hull. Once it sets up, I will add the radio antenna mount and swivel arm to round things out and move on to the turret.