DML6434 38(t) F New Project

Hello all.

Well it has been a long semester. Little time to post pictures or check out any great projects going on but it is all done, time for the summer. Thought I would post some pictures. Project has been moving forward, just slowly. Finally got all the brass stuff built and what need to be mounted for paint mounted. Spent a week running some external wiring to lights and such. Managed to get some focus on the theme also. Even planning a dio for this one, which will be a first for me. Paint and modulation done to emphasize a dark Russian winter. Colors are a bit darker than my usual "Panzer Grey". I want it to look like a dark winter day under any light, and I know the white wash will change the tone a bit.

Pictures taken under my full work bench lights, upwards of 9.5k lumen. You can see it still looks dusky. Hope it works. Not as blue tone as usual for me, but new things are good things. Should get the weathering, and wear done over then week. Will post more then. 

Best to all.

Tojo72

Outstanding work,my build is only distantly related to yours with all that metal !!

 

Ya, but you held fast and completed the interior. I'm still working on interior details on the Pz1 project, so I skipped the interior on the 38(t).

Thanks for the kind comments guys :)

Been waiting on this. Etchwork looks great!

Outstanding work,my build is only distantly related to yours with all that metal !!

Real nice PE work there! 

A recommendation: if you do a lot of PE soldering, check out Adam Wilder's liquid flux that he has in his Nitroline line of products. You just brush it on in whatever amount you need, like paint, and it makes soldering an absolute breeze. It's amazing stuff, and works like magic.

Ok, well it has been a couple month since my last post on this project....lot of things going on, and work on the 38t is usually my quiet time, then back to RL. Anyway, figured I'd update the post. Things are going well :). And should progress a bit faster now that some of the more nit-fickily things are done. Fenders are on!! have not done much as far as trying to model in any damage to them. Need to finish the gas cans, and other stuff before I do that so I don't kick myself in the butt later. For this post, just going to show you some of the brass stuff. But I have also made custom pieces for the front to hang track pieces off, and built the antenna mount....

Fenders were very fun to do. The fit was not perfect, but some fiddling got things right. Added inner mud flaps to the rear, as well as mud flap brackets with torn off mud flaps to rear of fenders. I'll spend more time pointing that stuff out in another post.

Hope everyone is off to a great 2016!!

Great work on a cool little tank! I have a soft spot for about any of the 38t variants.

Forgot to add a picture before moving the rivets and bolts..

The weld seem around the circular patch is....exagerated. Might need to look at that.

Oh,I completed and enjoyed this kit a lot earlier this year,no extra PE for me but it came out nice.I was sad that the interior is pretty well hidden,but it was still a hoot to do.Have fun with the Magic Tracks.

A surviving Pz38(t) F

No pictures to add today . School is prohibiting a lot of progress. But though I'd post a link to a surviving Pz38(t) F. I'd like to note though, there are period pictures that disagree with what goes on the fenders. I will be putting boxes on both sides. I think there is enough evidence out there to show that that is fine. The Germans were very capable of field modifications. And why would you not stop and grab up a box off a destroyed tank to put on yours!! Muddy tools vs. clean, not a lot of thinking needed IMO. I want the boxes, and I'm going to have them!! Anyway, take some time to look at the pictures, they speak many words. The texture of the rolled steel is amazing and the damage to the fenders....hmmm, I see some potential to stretch my modeling dollar out.

Have this kit in the stash so I'll be watching this one, have fun with it.

Wow, that's some detail! Impressive.

little to much solder, where is the wick!!

Original holes are on the wrong side, and the bottom piviot hole is not realy in the correct location if using the "all in one" actuation arm.

The bottom of the spring and the piviot point next to it should have been over the smaller box that holds the cams....the hash marks on the cutting board are 1/8th inch. Made the spring from copper. The shafts at piviot points are cut-off's from old micro drills. Ordering some 40 link/inch chain for this, lot of work to do to just use the 2D PE chain.

This is one of my favorite early war tanks as well. I'll be following this build.  :)