SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Sdkfz 250/1 Neu Premium WIP *Finished 01-13*

19925 views
104 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Sdkfz 250/1 Neu Premium WIP *Finished 01-13*
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, November 25, 2007 9:06 PM

With the StuG done and a full Sunday ahead of me, it was the perfect time to start up a new one. This time it's DML's Sdkfz 250/1 Neu Premium.

 

 

Work began where it usually does, at Step 1! This step is a very simple step, it installs the sprocket drive housings, parts H3/H6, to the hull tub.

I skipped Step 2 since that deals with the installation of the suspension arms and the idler arm. Test fits showed just a little bit of play in the arms so to avoid issues when the tracks are constructed, they will be installed later.

Step 3 deals with all of the road wheels and the sprockets. The sprockets are 3 part assemblies and each part has 4 connection points, so care is needed when removing from the sprues. The insert, G3, needs to be installed to H2 first to avoid problems and I used locking tweezers to slowly clamp each of the rollers together 2 at a time using liquid glue. The idler pair, parts G20/G4, are different from the standard road wheel pair in that G20 has a larger hole, so I marked these on the back with a Sharpie to insure I don't get them mixed up later on. The contact pins for the road wheel halves are tiny and not very helpful in keeping alignment, so I went slow through this part and made sure each wheel set was aligned properly before moving on to the next one.

Steps 4 and 5 deal with the installation of the wheels and the tracks, both of which were skipped. However the base for the steering rod, A8, was installed. Step 6 deals with the main part of the front wheel suspension and consists of 4 parts. All of these are from the older mold and need a bit more clean-up on seam lines as a result. The suspension is not workable/positionable without alteration, so I assembled parts A1, A4, and A5 together first and then glued them into the lower hull before attaching the Y-shaped brace part A6.

Step 7 adds some additional suspension details in the form of the steering linkage and the tow hooks.

This step also deals with the construction of the front tires and wheel hubs. Each tire is constructed from 5 slices plus the wheel hub and the instructions are misleading a bit here in terms of  when the hub needs to be added to the "stack" of slices. It's not possible to keep the wheel hub separate for painting and still construct the wheel since the first two slices need to be attached first.

Then the rest of the slices can be added on top of that to construct a very detailed tread pattern. Once all the slices were in place, I ran some liquid glue carefully around the lip of the rim to secure the hub in place.

This was repeated for the second tire to complete the step. Later on I'll use a sharp knife point to modify the U on the "Continentau" and see about adding a piece of stretched sprue or something for the missing valve stem for the tires.

Next up will start work on the interior.

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: in the tank factory in my basement
Posted by biffa on Sunday, November 25, 2007 9:13 PM

No rest for the wicked eh Bill (think i said that once before lol) cool subject once again i look forward to tagging along Smile [:)]

 

Ron g.
  • Member since
    June 2007
  • From: Elk Grove, CA
Posted by RandW on Sunday, November 25, 2007 9:19 PM
This should be an interesting build, looking forward to the progress.
James "I'll have a Coke" Funny Man Rocco
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Sunday, November 25, 2007 11:15 PM
Like all of your tutorials, this should be fun.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 25, 2007 11:29 PM
Very cool...I have being doing a ton of research on this little thing lately as I want one (I have the 250/5)...I see that DML has upgraded the front tires in their "sandwich" style...I'll be watching to see what else is new on this bad-boy!
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, November 26, 2007 8:09 AM

Ron,

Couldn't allow a perfectly fine Sunday go to waste when there's kits to be built! Big Smile [:D]

RandW, Tigerman, hope you enjoy the ride.

MR,

You have a kit of the 250/5? The artillery spotting variant? Who makes it? From whate I've been able to determine so far, the DML interior design copied that of the /5 instead of the /1 and just left out the radios and stand for the spotting scopes.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 26, 2007 8:18 AM
 wbill76 wrote:

Ron,

Couldn't allow a perfectly fine Sunday go to waste when there's kits to be built! Big Smile [:D]

RandW, Tigerman, hope you enjoy the ride.

MR,

You have a kit of the 250/5? The artillery spotting variant? Who makes it? From whate I've been able to determine so far, the DML interior design copied that of the /5 instead of the /1 and just left out the radios and stand for the spotting scopes.

Bill, it is a DML kit...one of their original Neu 250's...the interior is pretty accurate, but based on some refs I have of the actual layour of a /5 it does need a little tweaking, but nothing major...the /5 was very close to the /3, except for the spotting scopes and seat layout...I can send you any interior layout of any mark of 250 you want, as--like I said earlier--I have been doing tons of research lately on these; here is the 250/5 layout (in the alte body version):...looking forward to more of your build...
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, November 26, 2007 8:20 AM
MR, if you've got internals of the /1 Neu I'd be most grateful. All of the internal shots of the Neu layout I've got are from the /5, and are the same ones you've posted, so being able to see what's specific to the /1 vs. the /5 would be great.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 26, 2007 8:29 AM
 wbill76 wrote:
MR, if you've got internals of the /1 Neu I'd be most grateful. All of the internal shots of the Neu layout I've got are from the /5, and are the same ones you've posted, so being able to see what's specific to the /1 vs. the /5 would be great.
I will scan what I have tonight and post them...all of the German layout shots are taken with the Alte body-style, but according to my sources the equipment layout did not change from Alte to Neu. I wish they would come out w/ the 81mm mortar carrier!
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, November 26, 2007 9:57 AM
The mortar carrier would be a neat addition for sure! Are you sure about the Alte vs. Neu layout on the /1? My understanding is that the Mauser racks were removed in favor of the similar equipment layout of the /5 sans radios. That's how the new interior is arranged with this kit as well as some additional changes to the driver's compartment that also seem to be compatible with a Neu /5...I'm thinking that DML assumed that the Neu arrangement would be the same just without the added radios but I haven't been able to confirm that with actual photos of a /1 Neu interior.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 26, 2007 10:03 AM
 wbill76 wrote:
The mortar carrier would be a neat addition for sure! Are you sure about the Alte vs. Neu layout on the /1? My understanding is that the Mauser racks were removed in favor of the similar equipment layout of the /5 sans radios. That's how the new interior is arranged with this kit as well as some additional changes to the driver's compartment that also seem to be compatible with a Neu /5...I'm thinking that DML assumed that the Neu arrangement would be the same just without the added radios but I haven't been able to confirm that with actual photos of a /1 Neu interior.
Bill, let me check my refs later tonight when I get home.  I just bought two huge volumes on the 250 and already had some smaller refs...seems like most of the "official" German manuals I have seen published show the Alte interiors, but I may have some interor /1 pics...I did see one of those mortar carriers scratched a long time ago using Tamiya's old 250---looked awesome! Probably wouldn't be too dificult today, given that DML has the mortar kit out (and they also released a Cyberhobby 251 mortar carrier)...by the way, I'd love to see the markings options on that kit if you have the time. Thanks.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, November 26, 2007 1:38 PM
Markings option on the CH 251/2? I've got that one in the stash and can scan it in for you later this evening when I'm back at home.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 26, 2007 1:42 PM

 wbill76 wrote:
Markings option on the CH 251/2? I've got that one in the stash and can scan it in for you later this evening when I'm back at home.
Oops, sorry, Bill---I meant marking options for the one in progress, the 250/1 Neu...if you could scan those I'd greatly appreciate it.  I can just make out some of them on the side of the box. 

I am particularly interested in 4 digit tactical markings...note the pics I posted earlier in the thread w/ the one that is marked as "72 04"...thanks.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, November 26, 2007 1:58 PM

Here you go.

And the decal sheet.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 26, 2007 2:28 PM
Awesome, thanks, Bill----that third scheme was done by a Japanese modeler not too long ago; I'll post a pic of it tonight, as well as those ref pics you need...
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, November 26, 2007 4:53 PM
Glad it helps, the 4 digit tac numbers on the 9th SS vehicles are something I've not seen before, usually 4 digit numbers are associated with AufKlarungs units ala the Luchs.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 26, 2007 5:00 PM
 wbill76 wrote:
Glad it helps, the 4 digit tac numbers on the 9th SS vehicles are something I've not seen before, usually 4 digit numbers are associated with AufKlarungs units ala the Luchs.
From what I gather they are also possibly Regimental and Battalion HQ numbers that were supposed to confuse the enemy...some sources quote these numbers as starting at 25...problem is that no records have yet surfaced with an index of what units used what numbers...???
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 26, 2007 5:26 PM
Bill, does this help any?
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, November 26, 2007 9:15 PM
Thanks MR, only slightly. That's the layout on the Alte as evidenced by the canvas flap covered bin on the left side.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 26, 2007 10:43 PM

 wbill76 wrote:
Thanks MR, only slightly. That's the layout on the Alte as evidenced by the canvas flap covered bin on the left side.
Sorry, I'll keep my eyes open for something on the Neu interior...here is that cool dio from a Japanese modeller who used one of the painting/marking scheme from the DML instruction sheet:

  • Member since
    June 2007
  • From: Elk Grove, CA
Posted by RandW on Tuesday, November 27, 2007 9:01 PM
 

Okay, so I'm a moron and don't know how to quote, non matching quote blocks? anyway the pics are up there!Laugh [(-D]

Not to divert from your WIP, Bill. Manny, those are some incredible pics. I know your ref. library is extensive, but any recommendations for a good all around book on German armor? And that pic of #7203 does not have enough chipping on it, but I can take care of thatBig Smile [:D]

James "I'll have a Coke" Funny Man Rocco
  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The Green "Mountains", Vermont
Posted by IanIsBored2000 on Tuesday, November 27, 2007 10:32 PM

Rumor has it that if you eliminate the apostrophe in Manstein's name, it lets you quote him.

That half rack's already looking great.  You've hardly started and the detail in it is incredible compared to the old Tamiya 250/9 I did a little while ago.

"Scanlon: work your knobby hands on the table in front of you, constructing a make-beleive bomb to blow up a make-beleive world."
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, November 28, 2007 2:45 PM
 RandW wrote:
 

Okay, so I'm a moron and don't know how to quote, non matching quote blocks? anyway the pics are up there!Laugh [(-D]

Not to divert from your WIP, Bill. Manny, those are some incredible pics. I know your ref. library is extensive, but any recommendations for a good all around book on German armor? And that pic of #7203 does not have enough chipping on it, but I can take care of thatBig Smile [:D]

hmmmmm...an overall book on ALL armor from ALL nations from ALL time periods doesn't exist, IMO (or that I know of)...narrow down nationality and a time frame and maybe I can point you in the right direction...
  • Member since
    June 2007
  • From: Elk Grove, CA
Posted by RandW on Wednesday, November 28, 2007 7:29 PM
 Mansteins revenge wrote:
 RandW wrote:
 

Okay, so I'm a moron and don't know how to quote, non matching quote blocks? anyway the pics are up there!Laugh [(-D]

Not to divert from your WIP, Bill. Manny, those are some incredible pics. I know your ref. library is extensive, but any recommendations for a good all around book on German armor? And that pic of #7203 does not have enough chipping on it, but I can take care of thatBig Smile [:D]

hmmmmm...an overall book on ALL armor from ALL nations from ALL time periods doesn't exist, IMO (or that I know of)...narrow down nationality and a time frame and maybe I can point you in the right direction...

Oops, forgot time frame, got caught up with the blocked post! WWII German armor. I have Ian Baxter's 'Hitler's Panzers' which I enjoy, just wondering if there is something with all types of vehicles, not just the treaded ones? Just a brief rundown like Baxter's book. Thanks.

James "I'll have a Coke" Funny Man Rocco
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, December 7, 2007 10:17 PM

Made some progress on the interior, I decided that the best approach is going to be a "modular" one, meaning that I'm going to keep the interior broken down into sub-components as much as possible before painting.

Step 8 deals with the first module, the floor plate and seats for the driver and commander. The floor plate is one piece and the seats are two pieces, one for the seat itself and the other for the back rest. These installed easily enough, just a little care needed to get the tabs seated all the way into the bases with some liquid glue. This step also calls for the plate to be installed into the lower hull but I've held off doing that just yet.

Step 9 deals with the firewall for the driver's compartment. I installed all of the parts except the steering wheel, this will be painted separately and then installed. The details here are somewhat basic with the foot pedals just square representations and the gear shift lever is on the simplified side of things.

Step 10 deals with the rear compartment plate and various details. The locker for the MG ammo is a two piece assembly with the doors attached directly to the box in the closed position. The fuel filler cap is added to the rear and the long bench seat for the left side is also assembled and installed. Attached to the side of the ammo locker is the spare MG barrel holder and MG toolkit container, although looking at interior reference photos it looks as if the part has these reversed but it's not a huge thing considering. Last but not least, two holes need to be opened up in the right side of the floor to take the pedestal mount for the extra seat. Take care when doing this as the holes need to be big enough for the mount but not too big as the edge of the pedestal base isn't very wide to begin with. The seat itself is a two part assembly like the driver/commander seats and I used a bit of blue tack to dry-fit it in place to be sure it would clear the MG case behind it.

Next up will be the compartment sides, which ought to be a lot of fun as this is where much of the "premium" treatment gets applied.

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Saturday, December 8, 2007 11:07 AM
 RandW wrote:
 

I know your ref. library is extensive, but any recommendations for a good all around book on German armor?

Two books I can recommend which are fairly complete in cataloguing every German armored vehicle you can think of are:

"Armored Fighting Vehicle of Germany" edited by Duncan Crow, ARCO Publishing, 1978ISBN 0-668-04641-4

"Encyclopedia of German Tanks of WWII" by Peter Chamberlain and Hilary Doyle (technical editor Thomas L. Jentz) 1999, ARMS AND ARMOR ISBN 1-85409-518-8

Looking forward to seeing this one develope, Bill! I've still got mine in the stash!  

  • Member since
    June 2007
  • From: Elk Grove, CA
Posted by RandW on Saturday, December 8, 2007 3:45 PM

Thank you, Doog, once again. I'll check them out. And thanks 9toetanker(Joe) for the recommendation also.

 

Great to see you moving along again on this one, Bill. As usual looking top notch.

James "I'll have a Coke" Funny Man Rocco
  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Macedon, NY
Posted by 315rooster on Saturday, December 8, 2007 6:21 PM

Wow.

The detail on this kit is scary good looking.  The wheels look fantastic.  I've built too many kits lately with very poor looking wheels.

Grant

Member of the Rochester HSMA (IPMS local club)

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, December 8, 2007 9:39 PM

Thanks guys, appreciate the comments! Here's today's update.

Continuing on with the interior today, I skipped Step 11 as that calls for the installation of all the interior sections into the lower hull. Steps 12 and 13 deal with the new interior layout for the two different sides.

As a result of this being a "Premium" edition, the hull side panels have a mix-and-match set of molded in placement lines, some of which are appropriate for this kit and others left over from the older release. Why DML went through the trouble of adding new molded in locater guides but didn't remove the old ones is somewhat of a mystery, but that's the way it is on both sides of the hull. The newer locater marks overlap the old ones in many places as a result.

I started with the left hull side first, removing all the un-needed mold lines from the old kit as well as the new ones that were added for the large PE box that goes roughly in the middle according to the instructions. This box doesn't belong to a /1 variant, it belongs to the /5 spotting variant and since it won't be installed, the mold lines also went.

The right side required more surgery since it had molded on heavy mount points for the right side stowage bin not present on the Neu as well as a curved mount point that was a holdover from the older kit.

Once that was taken care of, I started in adding the details for the left side. The "premium" treatment here deals primarily with the addition of PE mount brackets and Gen 2 crew gear. Curiously, the MP38s provided in the added WA sprue are not identical...one has the folding stock molded in place and the other has the folding stock as a separate piece...and they both have different receiver/bolt mechanisms, one that is in the charged position and the other not...and although the instructions indicate you have a choice with the double arrows, only one of each is provided so your choice is really which one goes on which side!

The brackets for the MP38s are provided as PE and the instructions aren't very helpful in how to bend them to the necessary shape as they show them already installed, however after some study I was able to figure it out. The PE brackets are not the same size as the molded on locater positions, being somewhat shorter, so testing their respective positions just forward of the trigger and just forward of the magazine is essential to get their placement correct.

Fitting the brackets to the mess tins is a real pain...the Gen 2 tins have prominent features molded on them top and bottom and their little "ear" handles off each side make it an adventure to get the straps and brackets to line up properly. The little PE buckle portions that are on these were so fragile that they broke off with the slightest bit of pressure...a shame they weren't a bit more sturdy as they were a nice added detail. Last but not least, I added the stick grenade brackets one at a time starting at the rear and working my way forward. The instructions indicate only to fill 4 of the 6 brackets since the added GC sprue only has 4 "standard" grenades, although 4 additional are provided of a type I'm not familiar with. These are the normal grenades plus some sort of projection added to the "can" at the end of the stick, these however are too long to fit the brackets, so unless you have grenades from another kit to use, 4's the limit as provided. I carefully bent the clips so that the grenades could be added later after the panel has been painted.

Next up came the right side. This one has a bit more gear than the left side. I gave the PE signal flag racks, MA10 and MA18, a try but while their one-piece design was innovative, the tiny connection points for the little trays proved to be my undoing. Since these have to be shaped in a curve, I annealed it and as I was working on shaping the curves, the entire thing literally fell apart in my hand. The PE is too springy without annealing to shape the curve, so it's a Catch-22...and mine won't have this feature in the end. I'm not 100% sure it belonged to the /1 vs. the /5 to begin with, but wanted to give it a shot to see how they would assemble.

Just as with the left side, the various crew kit items were constructed and installed. I ran into a small problem with the three-in-a-row mess tin holders...due to the dimensions of the Gen 2 mess kits, it's not possible to fit 3 of them into the space designated and still be able to fit the gas mask and fire extinguisher as well as have the necessary room for the MP38 magazine that sticks down...so my novel solution was to install the third kit bracket empty. I also ran into a slight problem with the MP38 for this side, the one with the folding stock molded on...turns out the mount brackets aren't wide enough to fit around the folded mount in position, so some careful trimming with the hobby knife was necessary here as well.

The day's adventures didn't stop there...but a little calm before the next storm. I skipped over Step 14 since that installs the side panels to the hull as well as Step 15 which deals with the side fenders. Step 16 was largely skipped as well except for the construction of the rear hull panel and installation of the crew hatch door. The interior face of the panel and the door had slight raised sink marks that needed to be dealt with but these were very faint and just a small bit of sanding was all that was required. The door was installed in the closed position.

Staying with the interior prep work, next up was the upper hull. I installed the PE grills for the engine intake vents, a much improved area vs. the old vinyl mesh for sure. Other odds and ends details were also installed, except for the crew water bottles, as needed. When it came time to do the driver/radio operator visors is when the fun started. The "premium" package includes the now-familiar clear multi-part assembly for the visors, armored glass, and interior frames that allow for the visor to be posed open or closed on the 251 family of vehicles. As I went to test fit these before installation, I noticed a curious thing...the visors were too small vs. the openings in the hull plate. Since I have the older release kit in the stash, I pulled that at and compared the new clear visors to the old kit ones and sure enough, the older kit visors were larger.

Now the side-by-side difference may not seem like much, but it makes a huge difference when installing these as the frames that support them are the same dimensions...meaning that there's a noticeable gap around the perimeter if you use the supplied clear styrene parts. The "premium" kit still includes the parts on the sprue, E28/E29 and marked as not for use, that are the old kit armored glass/frames housings but the "premium" sprues DO NOT include the old visors. Fortunately, the old kit has 4 visors on the B sprues and only 2 are needed, so I snagged those for use on the "premium" kit. When the older parts are installed, they fill the cutout as they should. Just to highlight the difference, I placed the clear visor on the left over the kit backed frame to show just how much of a size difference there is. It would be possible to use sheet styrene and "fill" the cutouts to make up for this but it would produce a slightly off-center look to the visors unless you did it evenly on either side...a real pain given how small the total difference is. My only conclusion is that DML assumed that the visor dimensions would be the same on the 250 kit as on the 251s that these were originally designed for...and they aren't. You might be able to get by with installing both of the visors in the open position but I had a hard time installing the frames due to the size difference in the first place which is how I discovered the discrepancy so a gap would still likely be present to be dealt with. 

To round out the upper hull details, the instrument panel and radio were installed. These have nice molded on features that ought to make it easier to hand-paint their details. No instrument face decals are provided as in the 251 kits, so that's the only option for this area, but not a hardship really, just an observation.

To add insult to injury, as I was looking over the sub-assemblies to prep them for painting tomorrow, I was checking out the leather transmission cover that doubles as a rest/stand for the MG34/42 gunner's position and discovered that there's no transmission in the kit to go under the cover. Checking the older release, it too didn't have it but was an item that was included in the 250/10 kit #6139 on it's own little two-part sprue. Since they threw in sprues from other kits, why they left out this important detail is beyond me.

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: AusTx, Live Music Capitol of the World
Posted by SteveM on Sunday, December 9, 2007 8:05 AM

Bill, seems this one's a bit of a problem child. It's good for me to follow a level-headed guy work through these problems. Though I can detect the frustration, your tone is always one of a problem solver. Kudos to you.

I'm especially interested in seeing how the "modular" style assembly goes after painting. If it makes sense to me, it will change my approach and, hopefully, improve my building. But, I suppose, you always make this stuff look easySmile [:)]

Good luck today.

Steve

 

 

Steve M.

On the workbench: ginormous Kharkov dio

 

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.