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Priming your model

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  • Member since
    May 2008
Posted by zgator on Tuesday, December 2, 2008 9:06 PM
doog is right. That stuff is fantastic!!! if you have to use primer. I only use it for places where I've done some body work, filler and such. I try to stay away from primer if I can. It can muddy up the details like emblems and lines. I will use primer on all colored plastic. Red is the worst of all. I bought up a bunch of Jo-Han Cudas before they started going up in price and some were white and one was green, I think a yellow one and and 2 orange ones
  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Thursday, November 13, 2008 7:26 AM
Thanks Urbanlamb, since I have two bodies primed and the can instuctions say either way, I think I will sand one and not the other and see how it turns out. Might be an interesting experiment to learn from.

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Wednesday, November 12, 2008 7:55 PM

 Urbanlamb wrote:
I've been hearing a bit about wet sanding...why do wet instead of dry, and how do you do a wet sanding??

Wet sanding is simply sanding, using water as a lubricant. You can't do this with all sandpapers - some, typically the yellow/buff coloured type, will disintegrate when wet. You need to use the dark grey waterproof type.

When you wet sand, the water acts as a lubricant, preventing the abrasive surface from clogging with sanding dust. This gives a smoother finish, as the waste material doesn't accumulate into large lumps (potentially causing gouges).  

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Ottawa
Posted by Urbanlamb on Wednesday, November 12, 2008 2:08 PM

"It sounds like you will need to give them a wet sanding first from your description. "

 

I've been hearing a bit about wet sanding...why do wet instead of dry, and how do you do a wet sanding??

Lord keep your arm around my shoulder and your hand over my mouth.
  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Thursday, November 6, 2008 6:20 AM

Thanks for the replies. I define powder coat as slightly coarser than a flat coat. It's not overspray, that I'm sure of. Can instructions is what brought me to this question. They say that you can sand or apply color directly to the coat. The primer coat looks even/smooth with no blobs or pimply pattern.

-StephenCowboy [C):-)]

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Wednesday, November 5, 2008 12:15 PM
Try Tamiya's primer--that stuff is amazing.
  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Inland Northwest
Posted by Summit on Wednesday, November 5, 2008 8:32 AM
 Read the can instructions and recommendations - a "porus" or rough texture will be a sandable primer, a smooth finish will be a "no prep" ready for top coat primer. It sounds like you will need to give them a wet sanding first from your description.
Sean "I've reached nearly fifty years of age with my system." Weekend GB 2008
  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: The Bluegrass State
Posted by EasyMike on Wednesday, November 5, 2008 6:51 AM

Define "powder coat."  Sounds like overspray to me.  If it is overspray, you will want to sand your primer coat.

Smile [:)]

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Priming your model
Posted by NucMedTech on Wednesday, November 5, 2008 6:26 AM

Guys, I was wondering, after priming do you sand the model before putting on the base coat or not? I've got two models that I primed with testor's  white rattle can primer, which left a nice  soft powder coat but I don't know if I need to sand this before painting.

-StephenCowboy [C):-)]

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

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