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Help getting rid of seams

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  • Member since
    September 2015
  • From: The Redwood Empire
Posted by Aaronw on Friday, November 14, 2008 12:07 AM

Not directly related to your post but, cars are a bit different from other models.

You want to be careful and look at photos of the real car. Real cars have seams, and as modelers we have a tendancy to want to remove seams. It is worth taking the time to see if the seam actually has to go.

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Roanoke, Virginia
Posted by BigJim on Thursday, November 13, 2008 4:11 PM
I think it looks pretty obvious that not enough sanding was done to begin with.
  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Saturday, November 8, 2008 3:02 AM

Also- and the masters will tell you this, won't they, DOOG?

Seam defeat is 90% before they join, and 5% after. The rest is luck. Kind of like sex.

Don't base your victory on cleanup, base it on clean building, again like um...

Really.

There is a trend in publications to talk about fill/sand/prime paint which is all well and good, but...

Put it together carefully and correctly, and in almost all cases the rest is not necessary.

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Saturday, November 8, 2008 12:45 AM
You might want to try Tenax R7, Plastruct Plastic Weld, or even Testor's cement. I don;t know about that Model master cement, but I can telll you that I wasnt very impressed with Model MAster Bare Metal Foil...
  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by zackesch on Friday, November 7, 2008 10:29 PM
I am using model master liquid cement. I will also try thinning the liquid putty.
  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Friday, November 7, 2008 9:54 PM

First of all, you should apply enough glue so that you get a very small bead of melted plastic coming up out of the seams. It sounds sloppy, but it is the best way to fill in seams. You then simply sand them away.

What kind of glue are you using? And when you use Squadron putty, you should thin it into a thin paste with Testor's Liquid Cement, which will help it fill in the seams. It will work every time. Sometimes you may have to reapply it if you thin it too much, but you'll get the hang of how thin/thick to make it after a little while.

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by zackesch on Friday, November 7, 2008 8:52 PM


 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Friday, November 7, 2008 6:39 PM

You can't post pics as attachments or directly from your computer. They have to be hosted online first.

See here for instructions: /forums/654172/ShowPost.aspx

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by zackesch on Friday, November 7, 2008 11:34 AM
i am not quite sure how to post a pic. what i did was copy where the file was, ex, c:/documents and settings/...ect and i came up with a broken link.
  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: The Bluegrass State
Posted by EasyMike on Friday, November 7, 2008 11:29 AM
Pic doesn't open for me.
  • Member since
    June 2008
Help getting rid of seams
Posted by zackesch on Friday, November 7, 2008 11:15 AM

First off, this is my first attempt at airbrushing with enamel, comming from tamiya acrylic and i must say, enamel sprays much better and is more forgiving.

 

My question is, how do you get rid of seam lines? I tried sanding it down to a polish grit, but as the attached picture shows, i had no luck. On a hidden part on the engine, i tried using squadron green puddy, straight from the tube, but the putty is still visiable when painted. Any tips on what i can do?

Thanks! 

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