Anyone Up for a Star trek Group build?

Here are the rest.

Here I cut out the Torpedo launch tubes and used plactic straws for them so they would look more realistic. I added a tank Turret to the top of R-2 to make it lok more like a Klingon bridge . You can see the center console for a gear shift from a car kit on the top of the nose.

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/9927/0032zp.jpg

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9518/0048zp.jpg

The aft section

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/3686/0075ot.jpg

The Finnished Product. I painted it in  Tamiya Primer Grey and used a heavy wash of black.

http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/1388/scan0003b1dp.jpg

Here is a close up of the top of the nose. You;ll see part of a plastic twizzle stick and some plastic strip added to either side of it to make the cloaking device generators.

 http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/2842/vtadsc00466ef8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums

http://img.photobucket.com/albums

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/Archangel51534/S6300116.jpg

I sure will do that. I haven't started yet But I have an idea of turning the Warbird into a Romulan Transporter or a three engined variant to the Warbird. I know it's not a new idea but with what I have on hand its about all I can do. Here are some pictures of the model I was talking about before that is already built. I bashed a nX-wing and a D-7 together. After i had finnsihed it I had realized the nose was a bit too long . It had parts from the TOS Enterprise, The Hasagawa Wepons sets and a ceneter gear shift from a car model for detail and a part from a Monogram snap tite space shuttle.

The start.  a broken X-wing and the rear half of a D-7 kit

http://img466.imageshack.us/img466/2083/0054mr.jpg

The engines

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/3308

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/9936/0098hh.jpg

The boom and aft sections mated and some details added.

 http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/8663/0019hv.jpg

Boba Fett wrote:

Question Snoopy, are you gonna post this in GB's? You might get more people that way... Just a thought. If so, when?

I would and probably should but the last time I suggested a scratchbuild there I did not get any takers.  I figured anyone interested in Sci-Fi things come here so for now I will stay here.  I may at the very least post a notification of this group build. 

Got some more done.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/strut_finished.jpg

I made the main nacelle strut by laminating three sheets. The middle sheet was grooved, slightly smaller in width and also has a tab to insert into the secondary hull's already present slot. The smaller width creates a trench around the outer edge. I'm also proud of the angle leading down to the grooves.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/struts_on.jpg

Both main struts are inserted. I also filled the aft with weights to counter all the CDs in the saucer.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/impulse1.jpg

I shaved off a bit of the underside "flair" just aft of the saucer which will house the impulse engines.  I think I'll also end up blending the flain into the underside of the saucer.

That's all for now!

Archangel wrote:

It is already completed. That is why I asked before entering the build .The good thing is i can start a new build though on something else easy enough. I have a Romulan Warbird from the 3 Pc adversary kit that needs to be kitbashed

Archangel, unfortuneately this is a building site and if it is finished then no you cannot use it as an entry.  You can post pics of if.  I am sure we would be interested in seeing it but if you want to do the Romulan warbird that is okay as long as you ar scratchbuilding or kitbashing the model.  When you do any type of scratchbuilding or kitbashing of pieces post those and tell us how you did it.  Let me know your intensions.

Woody wrote:

Is my GB entry ok?  SNOOPY wrote: Woody, When you used CA, what did you use to spread the CA?  Did you just clob it on and spread with a putty knife or did you put dabs of CA every 1/2" or so then let the pressure squeeze it out from there?  I was just thinking what about 3M 77 spray?  I am not sure if it has the holding strength when being sanded.  Time to experiment?  I wish I still worked at this filter making laboratory.  To bond plastics together we would put them in special made jig that would heat both surfaces to be bonded but the opposite sides were cooled with CO2 or nitrogen and then each piece pressed together until cooled.  Presto one solid plastic piece.  Well, that was the past.  I use the thin CA and makes concentric rings about 1/4-1/2 inch apart. I don't place the first ring right on the edge but about 1/2 inch back. You just have to eyeball it. After the parts are placed together the glue should go all the way to the visable seam. Too much and you have a mess.

Woody, I got your PM and your entry is good.  I need to update the first page.  How do you make the concentric rings.  I have been using the step method where I cut out a circle the best I can by and then putting it into the drill press and file it down to size.  After getting the sizes I need that is when I laminate together.  This weekend will be the next attempt at getting the shape I need.

Is my GB entry ok?

SNOOPY wrote:

Woody, When you used CA, what did you use to spread the CA?  Did you just clob it on and spread with a putty knife or did you put dabs of CA every 1/2" or so then let the pressure squeeze it out from there?  I was just thinking what about 3M 77 spray?  I am not sure if it has the holding strength when being sanded.  Time to experiment?  I wish I still worked at this filter making laboratory.  To bond plastics together we would put them in special made jig that would heat both surfaces to be bonded but the opposite sides were cooled with CO2 or nitrogen and then each piece pressed together until cooled.  Presto one solid plastic piece.  Well, that was the past.

I use the thin CA and makes concentric rings about 1/4-1/2 inch apart. I don't place the first ring right on the edge but about 1/2 inch back. You just have to eyeball it. After the parts are placed together the glue should go all the way to the visable seam. Too much and you have a mess.

sumpter250 wrote:

Just a thought, how about "rings" instead of circles. It might be touchy aligning the rings, but the  bonded surface area would be smaller, and the liquid styrene cement could set more quickly, with less "gas out" problems.

It probably be a quicker cure time for the adhesives but like you said I think alignment would be rough.

Woody, When you used CA, what did you use to spread the CA?  Did you just clob it on and spread with a putty knife or did you put dabs of CA every 1/2" or so then let the pressure squeeze it out from there?  I was just thinking what about 3M 77 spray?  I am not sure if it has the holding strength when being sanded.  Time to experiment?  I wish I still worked at this filter making laboratory.  To bond plastics together we would put them in special made jig that would heat both surfaces to be bonded but the opposite sides were cooled with CO2 or nitrogen and then each piece pressed together until cooled.  Presto one solid plastic piece.  Well, that was the past. 

SNOOPY wrote:

I would try CA but the strength properties for CA are not very good in the shearing direction.  If you have not had any problems with it I will give it a shot.  What do you think about taking either balsa or basswood sheets, cutting out the circle sizes, laminate, sand and then make resin parts?  There was also a system someone showed on the scratchbuild forum where he used Bondo resin with stacked styrene discs and make a tool to smooth out the resin.  It seems a little too messy to me but it might be something I need to think about trying.  I would like to get the saucer done before school starts in two weeks.  It is going rather slowly. -Scott Lindsay

I haven't had a problem using CA laminated styrene but regardless of which glue you use I'd use plenty of clamps. Air spaces will cause de-lamination. My goal in making the blank is no air and fully cured cement/glue.

By the way did you get my PM?

SNOOPY wrote:

I read it as if Archangel had another klingon ship he had started.  If it is not complete i do not mind him jumping in as long as other agree.  As far as an already done one well that does not fit our category.

Yes, I agree with this idea.  Maybe I misread it.  Calrification would be helpful.

Woody wrote:

I mostly use CA but I have used epoxy as well.

I would try CA but the strength properties for CA are not very good in the shearing direction.  If you have not had any problems with it I will give it a shot.  What do you think about taking either balsa or basswood sheets, cutting out the circle sizes, laminate, sand and then make resin parts?  There was also a system someone showed on the scratchbuild forum where he used Bondo resin with stacked styrene discs and make a tool to smooth out the resin.  It seems a little too messy to me but it might be something I need to think about trying.  I would like to get the saucer done before school starts in two weeks.  It is going rather slowly.

-Scott Lindsay

Prince of Styrene II wrote:

Archangel wrote: I have a kitbash of a Klingon ship that would fit right in here. I built two years ago for Wonderfest 2006. It didn't win anything but I did get a few compliments on it. I also have the in progress shots still from when I posted it on www.Starshipmodeler.com while building it. If it fits the rules here I'd like to enter it in the group build. So it's already done?  Isn't the idea behind a group build to actually build something & not just "enter" what's already on your shelf?

I read it as if Archangel had another klingon ship he had started.  If it is not complete i do not mind him jumping in as long as other agree.  As far as an already done one well that does not fit our category. 

Archangel can you be a little more specific on your build?

Archangel wrote:

I have a kitbash of a Klingon ship that would fit right in here. I built two years ago for Wonderfest 2006. It didn't win anything but I did get a few compliments on it. I also have the in progress shots still from when I posted it on www.Starshipmodeler.com while building it. If it fits the rules here I'd like to enter it in the group build.

So it's already done?  Isn't the idea behind a group build to actually build something & not just "enter" what's already on your shelf?

Woody wrote:

Heat is your enemy! I would also support the underside of the part, directly under where you are cutting with the Dremel. If the part isn't solidly supported you will get a wavy. uneven surface.

Woody, I am also having the problem of unlamination.  I tried two things.  two layers I tried Testors Liquid Cement and for the others I tried epoxy.  Both layer are starting to delaminate.  Any suggestions on adhesive for laminating sizes of the circles from 3-3/4" to 1-5/16" in diameter?  I was thinking of trying Weld -On #3.

Woody wrote:

Hey Snoopy, I use that method of turning parts in styrene all the time. I think I see your problem. You are building up too much heat in the part and it's not stablised enough. I use a cordless drill to turn the part and a Dremel with a coarse tooth to sculpt the part. Turn the part your cutting slowly and use the dremel on as high as speed as you can that doesn't cause melting. Heat is your enemy! I would also support the underside of the part, directly under where you are cutting with the Dremel. If the part isn't solidly supported you will get a wavy. uneven surface. I clamp the drill to the workbench, support the back side of the piece with my finger tips(put talc powder on your finger tips), and hold the dremel with my right hand. If the friction on your finger tips produces uncomfortable amounts of heat, the drill is turning too fast. I hope this is helpful.

I got this idea from you a few group builds ago.  I am using a bench top drell press that does not turn all that fast but I can still slow it down  a lot.  The cutting tool was a combination of a sanding block with 150 grit sandpaper, a small coarse file, and at times a 3M sanding sponge.  I really do not see a lathe in the near future so if I can perfect this I think I will be okay.  I still have a Dadealus Class in storage waiting to be unmothballed and finished. This week I will try again and let you know how it goes.

Archangel wrote:

I have a kitbash of a Klingon ship that would fit right in here. I built two years ago for Wonderfest 2006. It didn't win anything but I did get a few compliments on it. I also have the in progress shots still from when I posted it on www.Starshipmodeler.com while building it. If it fits the rules here I'd like to enter it in the group build.

As long as no one objects, I am flexible.  Some thing from the Klingon Empire would be nice.

SNOOPY wrote:

I like the bottom sketch of the nacelle.  Of course it depends on the era you are build towards.

The bottom sketch is just the bottom angle of the same idea.  The era I'm designing in is the post-Nemesis time period.

SNOOPY wrote:

Of course now looking at my sketch I am not sure is to go with a tapered down saucer or have look different with a more rounded up top part.

Looks like a new version of the Ptolemy Class.  Very nice.  I like the top contour.  Similar, but different than the usual Starfleet type.  A little bit of the classic UFO feeling to it.

Here is a sketch of my project. 

It is not the most elegant of sketches.  Here is the trouble I am having.

I need to get some styrene and try again.  I have head of another way to do a scratchbuilt saucer with Bondo resin.  I have not tried that one yet.  Of course now looking at my sketch I am not sure is to go with a tapered down saucer or have look different with a more rounded up top part.

Prince of Styrene II wrote:

Since the Taegu will have double deflectors, I wanted to keep the theme. I came up with this design. We'll see how it works out after I make the main aft strut. http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/strut_design_sm.jpg

I like the bottom sketch of the nacelle.  Of course it depends on the era you are build towards.

Some updates!  Here's some of the putty work.  I wanted some panel lines, so I puttied over only what seemed to be out of scale & also added some Aves to the aft between the engine housings. You can also see a bit of the neck, supplied from an old Transformers toy.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/body_putty.jpg

Primered, it looks pretty good. I think I'll have to scribe some more panels into it, though.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/primer1.jpg

The highlighters break down beautifully & you can remove the liquid. I plan on painting the inner tube & leaving the outer clear casing alone.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/highlighter_apart.jpg

Since the Taegu will have double deflectors, I wanted to keep the theme. I came up with this design. We'll see how it works out after I make the main aft strut.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/strut_design_sm.jpg

sumpter250 wrote:

These are the only other shots I have that came out well.

!!! From the first angle, I thought the saucer-mounted phasers were on top of the nacelle!   Pretty cool idea to have them mounted on the saucer!  And that they're mounted forward of the outermost circumference is just that much more interesting.

Firestone is an old build, so I'll probably not be trying to do any putty work on it now. Still it doesn't hurt to ask, exactly what putty work?

I agree, let the old builds stand as they are.  It shows how much your skills have grown.  The putty work I was refering to is on the saucer rim window inserts.  You can see the edges, but then again that old kit was pretty bad in some areas.  When I built mine years ago, it didn't look any better.  Those inserts have about a 2mm gap on either side!

Do you have any other angles of the Firestone?

These are the only other shots I have that came out well.

Firestone is an old build, so I'll probably not be trying to do any putty work on it now. Still it doesn't hurt to ask, exactly what putty work?